200 Series Lift using Tundra front IFS and Icon shocks (1 Viewer)

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Search my posts, look for bushing, or shock mount. I sent pictures of the bushings ICON uses for cruiser and tundra.


Ive searched and searched for these pic's and not finding em anywhere. Im trying to work out the exact differences between the 200 and the tundra parts but i dont have access to Tundra's here in AU.

If anyone out there in the USA can find me a Kit (LCA's, CV's, Tie rods) im happy to pay for them, and to be shipped etc
 
Ive searched and searched for these pic's and not finding em anywhere. Im trying to work out the exact differences between the 200 and the tundra parts but i dont have access to Tundra's here in AU.

If anyone out there in the USA can find me a Kit (LCA's, CV's, Tie rods) im happy to pay for them, and to be shipped etc
Contact Just Differentials for info on Tundra kits.
 
Ive searched and searched for these pic's and not finding em anywhere. Im trying to work out the exact differences between the 200 and the tundra parts but i dont have access to Tundra's here in AU.

If anyone out there in the USA can find me a Kit (LCA's, CV's, Tie rods) im happy to pay for them, and to be shipped etc
I gotcha brotha, DM and let's work it out.
 
I've always had issue with the angles of the swaybar links. I finally snapped one running through a wash in southern AZ.
I found BDS replacement links for their 4.5-7" lift kits.
I'm a little shy if 4" lift, but with the added length of the tundra arm over the cruiser I figured the .5" less than 4.5 listed by BDS wouldn't cause any problems.
I finally got around to installing them, and it came out great!

20200126_154228.jpg


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So far the ride seems a little more planted. Turning into parking lots with raised driveways used to trigger stability control. Havent heard a beep since installing these.

I would 100% recommend aftermarket heim joint sway bar links to get your geometry back to kosher
 
So far the ride seems a little more planted. Turning into parking lots with raised driveways used to trigger stability control. Havent heard a beep since installing these.

I would 100% recommend aftermarket heim joint sway bar links to get your geometry back to kosher
Nice thanks for sharing, have never had the issues you mention but I've def been eyeing these none the less.

Edit: can you share the part number?
 
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Nice thanks for sharing, have never had the issues you mention but I've def been eyeing these none the less.

Edit: can you share the part number?

BDS 128702 I assume.

If you haven't had issues, can you share what you did with your KDSS/swaybar links? After the Tundra swap, every truck I've seen has the links at horrible, bound-up angles. They may not all fail, but I'd like a clean solution to the issue. The BDS links or something similar looks like a decent solution.
 
does anyone know what ballpark the LCA angle should be at(degreee)? pertaining to lift height, preload etc.. I would assume to more angle they have at ride height(sitting) the less down travel available.. @Markuson
 
BDS 128702 I assume.

If you haven't had issues, can you share what you did with your KDSS/swaybar links? After the Tundra swap, every truck I've seen has the links at horrible, bound-up angles. They may not all fail, but I'd like a clean solution to the issue. The BDS links or something similar looks like a decent solution.
Not sure, didn't do anything special and these are the LC links, I think @TexAZ went as far as installing a Tundra link on one side but I could be mistaken. Below are pics of mine, maybe they are "bound" I just haven't had any issues but that doesn't mean one may not develop over time. Edit: the angle of the passenger side link in my photos (top two) seem more "bound" than in the ones above w/ the adjustable links. If you're stock can you take similar photos that compare?
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IMG_20200129_092233.jpg

IMG_20200129_092246.jpg
 
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Not sure, didn't do anything special and these are the LC links, I think @TexAZ went as far as installing a Tundra link on one side but I could be mistaken. Below are pics of mine, maybe they are "bound" I just haven't had any issues but that doesn't mean one may not develop over time. Edit: the angle of the passenger side link in my photos (top two) seem more "bound" than in the ones above w/ the adjustable links. If you're stock can you take similar photos that compare?
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I don't have a pic handy, but I have Tundra arms as well, so mine are bound similar to yours. I did run a different link (Tundra/Sequoia I believe) to replace the driver side cast one from the 200, but it's still not great.

From the pics you posted, it looks like you could maybe benefit from swapping the links 180* around the vertical axis so they mount on the outside of the sway/KDSS bar. Assuming there's clearance to do so of course. Mine did clear with both links on the outside of the bar, and the angles are less crappy.
 
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does anyone know what ballpark the LCA angle should be at(degreee)? pertaining to lift height, preload etc.. I would assume to more angle they have at ride height(sitting) the less down travel available.. @Markuson
The LCA angle is directly proportional to the amount of lift - more lift = steeper LCA angles. As to the actual degree measurement - someone can surely measure it, but why do you need to know that? And yes, more lift means less down travel available.
 
From the pics you posted, it looks like you could maybe benefit from swapping the links 180* around the vertical axis so they mount on the outside of the sway/KDSS bar. Assuming there's clearance to do so of course. Mine did clear with both links on the outside of the bar, and the angles are less crappy.

That seems like it would make things a lot worse. As I said, I have never had traction control go off, have no clicks or groans, and it's been hammered on for 3 years/30k miles. To me it just logically makes sense that if you lift your truck you should extend your sway bar links to put the sway bar back as close to neutral as possible.
 
So far the ride seems a little more planted. Turning into parking lots with raised driveways used to trigger stability control. Havent heard a beep since installing these.

I would 100% recommend aftermarket heim joint sway bar links to get your geometry back to kosher

I don’t have Tundra arms yet, but REALLY want them instead of spacers I am currently running. I bought my 200 with BP-51s already installed. I *thought* the stability control seemed touchy, but I didn’t have a baseline to compare with.

I appreciate this post, it gives me an idea of something to check.

I already was planning on researching KDSS sway bar links when I swap arms in order to squeeze maximum down travel out of the set-up. (I was looking the 3” Icon struts and upper arms for Tundra).
 
Do any of you with Tundra swap feel you have gotten more down travel? What’s your setup?
 
That seems like it would make things a lot worse. As I said, I have never had traction control go off, have no clicks or groans, and it's been hammered on for 3 years/30k miles. To me it just logically makes sense that if you lift your truck you should extend your sway bar links to put the sway bar back as close to neutral as possible.
At least on your passenger side link pic, switching it 180* looks to me like it would straighten the link pretty well. What are you seeing that would be worse?

Mine is also yet to give me issues, but I worry they are imminent.

The extended links are a good idea (as with any lift), but the lower mounting point of the link is changed with the Tundra arms, which is where the binding comes from. 200s with stock length LCAs don't experience the issue to this extent when lifted, even with stock length swaybar links.

Do any of you with Tundra swap feel you have gotten more down travel? What’s your setup?

You will get a tiny bit more down travel simply due to the longer arms and shafts. In the end though, the CV still has a finite amount of usable travel until it binds. This is why all "long travel" kits have to use longer (wider stance overall) control arms and longer axle shafts - the longer the arms, the more usable travel you get while keeping CV angles in check.
 

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