redeye
SILVER Star
Ignore this. I had popped off the panels to troubleshoot an aftermarket remote starter issue and must've hit the "PWR DOOR" button.
Hatch works as designed.
200 Series - Electrical Issues - Any advice or feedback?
- Thread starter namers22
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Ignore this. I had popped off the panels to troubleshoot an aftermarket remote starter issue and must've hit the "PWR DOOR" button.
Hatch works as designed.
- Thread starter
- #22
That's a good point. I just need them [the dealership] to see the issue so they can at least replace the battery as part of the diagnosis. At the moment, they're saying its all working fine and nothing is wrong with the vehicle.
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TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
I'll add a couple things... the Fob behavior or more specifically the sensors that detect the fob can be adjusted on my 2013. IIRC there is a setting for where the key needs to be inside the vehicle to allow starting and the options were like "Driver Seat" or "Anywhere in the Cabin", this would indicate that they are using some combination of signal strength/triangulation to determine where the Fob is located at any given time. There may be a setting for range as well.
My point here is that the sensors and intelligence related to the truck's interaction with the Fob are pretty advanced and it sounds like there may be something there. That said, I would have the dealer put a brand new battery in the truck and both Fobs as a starting point. If the issue persists, I would have them check the Start button wiring to make sure everything is connected correctly as it sounds like the truck isn't turning all the way off.
After that, my guess would be something like the pin/wiring connector issue mentioned previously or maybe a faulty Fob sensor. Have you hooked up a scan tool to see if it has thrown any codes? Surely the dealer checked that.
My point here is that the sensors and intelligence related to the truck's interaction with the Fob are pretty advanced and it sounds like there may be something there. That said, I would have the dealer put a brand new battery in the truck and both Fobs as a starting point. If the issue persists, I would have them check the Start button wiring to make sure everything is connected correctly as it sounds like the truck isn't turning all the way off.
After that, my guess would be something like the pin/wiring connector issue mentioned previously or maybe a faulty Fob sensor. Have you hooked up a scan tool to see if it has thrown any codes? Surely the dealer checked that.
Definitely a quirky issue you are having. Some food for thought...
TL;DR -
1) Switch key fobs for a while. It might be an issue with only that fob's electronics.
2) The battery costs more than anyone would expect from a regular battery. That might be why the dealer was shying away from swapping batteries.
My other car is a 2018 BMW 328d wagon. If you are not familiar with the newer BMW products, the keys actually serve as mini computers. For example, when I take it into the service department, they request that I hand them the key. Not only to give them possession of the car for the physical act of servicing it, the fob is plugged in to a module on the service writers' desk... it tells them the vitals of the car so they don't have to manually go inside of each car and record the entry data.
Finding out what kind of communication the fob has with the LC might help isolate your problem. I would assume that the LC key is a one way communicator with the car (i.e the key fob only sends, not receives info from the car) since they do not use them in a similar manner above. Either way, I would suggest putting your regular key fob where the spare is, and using the spare key only to see if it happens when a different key is introduced. That might possibly indicate whether it is solely a problem with that one key, or a much more involved problem with the key module itself. The chances, IMO, of both key fobs being defective and the key module on the vehicle not having issues would be slim.
I also contemplated saying to replace the vehicle battery (and possibly the fob battery), as @TeCKis300 suggested. I looked up the Panasonic battery of the 200 (mostly because I've never seen a Panasonic brand car battery)... completely insane price. I hope you are sitting down when you see the price.
TL;DR -
1) Switch key fobs for a while. It might be an issue with only that fob's electronics.
2) The battery costs more than anyone would expect from a regular battery. That might be why the dealer was shying away from swapping batteries.
My other car is a 2018 BMW 328d wagon. If you are not familiar with the newer BMW products, the keys actually serve as mini computers. For example, when I take it into the service department, they request that I hand them the key. Not only to give them possession of the car for the physical act of servicing it, the fob is plugged in to a module on the service writers' desk... it tells them the vitals of the car so they don't have to manually go inside of each car and record the entry data.
Finding out what kind of communication the fob has with the LC might help isolate your problem. I would assume that the LC key is a one way communicator with the car (i.e the key fob only sends, not receives info from the car) since they do not use them in a similar manner above. Either way, I would suggest putting your regular key fob where the spare is, and using the spare key only to see if it happens when a different key is introduced. That might possibly indicate whether it is solely a problem with that one key, or a much more involved problem with the key module itself. The chances, IMO, of both key fobs being defective and the key module on the vehicle not having issues would be slim.
I also contemplated saying to replace the vehicle battery (and possibly the fob battery), as @TeCKis300 suggested. I looked up the Panasonic battery of the 200 (mostly because I've never seen a Panasonic brand car battery)... completely insane price. I hope you are sitting down when you see the price.
Panasonic makes thee best batteries for anything. Look at the price of their cordless drills compared to everyone else. If you watch tv shows about surgery you will notice if they are using a drill in the operating room its a Panasonic.
Battery manufacturing has always been strange to me. Same assembly line but for some reason some battery packs turn out better than others. Panasonic makes cores and packs for almost everyone in every industry. They save the best ones for their own brand. Any new tech goes straight to their brand. You don't hear about them because they do not have a marketing campaign for the masses. They market to industries who must have a reliable battery and cost is not an issue. No sense competing with box stores where the public wants to save $1. Makita, DeWalt and even Ryobi get their batteries from a Panasonic factory.
Also check out Panasonic's warranty and compare it to others.
- Thread starter
- #26
Update: My LC 200 didn't start on Friday (7/2/2021). Completely dead battery. Had it towed into the shop on Friday. They weren't able to start looking at the vehicle until the next day. They look at it 7/3/2021 and 7/5/2021. They have found water underneath the front right passenger seat. They're claiming that the roof rack is the cause of this issue; however, they did not fully diagnose it. They wanted to charge $700 to diagnose the issue which also could come back negative on the roof rack assumption and they would not reimburse me if they found a different fault. They repeatedly said that any water damage is not covered under warranty This vehicle has 12k miles. I have not drilled any holes into the Land Cruiser, which is what they had originally thought.
For those that have a Prinsu rack, have any of you had issues with water leaking into your vehicle where they mount into the OEM footings?
For those that have a Prinsu rack, have any of you had issues with water leaking into your vehicle where they mount into the OEM footings?
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
I don’t have Prinsu, but I did have leaking issues at the footing on my Rhino Rack Backbone system. It manifested as dampening the B pillar. If you have water accumulating under the seat I would expect to see or feel evidence of it in the B pillar. Hard to imagine it making it to the floor without showing signs higher up.
- Thread starter
- #28
Thanks for the advice. I'll take a look at the B pillar. From what I remember, the A and B pillar both looked dry as well as the headliner. Unfortunately, its suppose to rain again today but luckily have a cover on the car to prevent things getting worse.
The rack could be the issue. I had a leak in my 100 down the a-pillar, but you could never see it from the outside. Look under the carpet by the door, and check out these threads....
forum.ih8mud.com
forum.ih8mud.com
Electrical gremlins caused by leak.
forum.ih8mud.com
Help please - windshield leak destroyed wiring harnesses near ECU
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks for the recommendation here.The rack could be the issue. I had a leak in my 100 down the a-pillar, but you could never see it from the outside. Look under the carpet by the door, and check out these threads....
Electrical gremlins caused by leak.
Help please - windshield leak destroyed wiring harnesses near ECU
Update:
It started to rain last night around 7pm. I checked at certain intervals to see if the car would have any electrical issues again (lately, its be turning the electronics on by itself).
10pm, car was OFF as expected.
Midnight, car was OFF as expected
4am, car was OFF as expected
6am, car was ON. Same issue as before (GPS turns on and the car says it cannot lock since key is not detected as if I were trying to start the car)
I've checked the air filter, below the passenger carpet, behind the plastic panels of the passenger side and NOTHING is WET. I'm at a loss as to what could be causing this. Any ideas where else I should be checking? My next thought is to check the headliner to see if there if there is a trail of water coming through there that I'm not seeing/feeling. Anyone know how to take the headliner off (at least for the front portion)?
I would check the driver side behind the foot well carpet (dead pedal area) and under the door sills.
- Thread starter
- #32
Checked the driver side carpet and door sills. Both were dry and didn't show any signs of water.
I could we way way off...but i think the water is coming in from under the truck while driving in the rain. I would want to have the seat mounting area checked and see if there was ever a reason to open up that seat area and a piece of plastic or shield never got put back correctly. I would be parking on a sprinkler and checking for water every hour. This is a wild guess.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Next time it happens, pull the plastic cover at the driver floor door sill. with it removed, look at the forward-most point at the base of the A-pillar. There you’ll see a couple of huge wire harnesses. You should be able to reach a finger to the metal base around the wiring harness.
Water there would explain this gremlin.
It CAN get down there without obvious wetness above. Ask me how I know…
- Thread starter
- #35
Will do. I've pulled the passenger side sill and seen a bunch of big wires. I'm assuming its relatively similar to the driver side. Did you find where your water was coming from?Next time it happens, pull the plastic cover at the driver floor door sill. with it removed, look at the forward-most point at the base of the A-pillar. There you’ll see a couple of huge wire harnesses. You should be able to reach a finger to the metal base around the wiring harness.
Water there would explain this gremlin.
It CAN get down there without obvious wetness above. Ask me how I know…
Markuson
SILVER Star
Driver side is very different in that it hides two HUGE wiring harnesses that are not protected from water at all. Definitely a different vulnerability. Also… Don’t assume driver side is dry just because passenger was.
My passenger side was never wet…but driver had pooled water below A pillar and the harnesses were soaked.
stonekutters
SILVER Star
I would also reach out to Toyota corporate and start a discussion going. You shouldn’t be having these problems on a brand new truck.
I had this issues on the driver side connectors. One connector had gotten wet and rear hatch wouldn’t unlock. Toyota tech fixed by bypassing the connector and wrapped everything with waterproof tape.
- Thread starter
- #39
Confirmed with third party and my home town Toyota dealership there was not a water leak in side the car.
I've started the lemon law process for the vehicle since Toyota cannot seem to figure out what is causing the electrical issues. Has anyone gone down this process with Toyota?
I've started the lemon law process for the vehicle since Toyota cannot seem to figure out what is causing the electrical issues. Has anyone gone down this process with Toyota?
I have a 2017 and things were fine with the Prinsu for over a year. Just this year my rig was sitting outside in some substantial rainfalls and the B pillar was soaked and had water on the floor. Frustrating since I followed the instructions and used the recommended silicone and was very meticulous in the installation.
By chance, have you figured yours out?
