200 Series 2nd Row Removal (2 Viewers)

[grinchy]

I'd just replace with the 2 pin connector of your choice. Something less complex probably. Make sure the battery is unplugged when you're dorking with Airbag stuff.
The trick to that yellow one is a two stage release, you release the shell, then then the push will push. If I recall they go in different directions.

 

[bloc]

I screwed up the removal. I was having a hard time getting the SRS connector to come apart and tried removing all of the bolts so that I could move the seat a little and get the wiring in a better position to release the connector . . . The seat is heavier than I thought and I ended up pulling the wires out of the connector .

Now I'm trying to figure out how to put the wires back in that female housing (part 90980-12698).

Anyone know how??

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I'd just replace with the 2 pin connector of your choice. Something less complex probably. Make sure the battery is unplugged when you're dorking with Airbag stuff.
The trick to that yellow one is a two stage release, you release the shell, then then the push will push. If I recall they go in different directions.

I strongly disagree. From memory toyota uses a fancy connector that grounds across the wires to the airbag to avoid static electricity potentially causing deployment while working on the part in question. Plus, since it's a critical safety system if the new connector isn't as reliable as what they installed.. what happens in the unlikely event it doesn't function as expected in a wreck?

Personally I'd either spend a bunch of time researching how toyota does their connectors and buy the good crimping tools and make it back as-factory.. (it's all in the factory service manual) or let toyota do it. @4Roses if they try to sell you a floor harness tell them to piss off. This is a simple 2-wire repair for a tech with the right tools and experience.. and they almost certainly have at least one of those around.

 

[4Roses]

I strongly disagree. From memory toyota uses a fancy connector that grounds across the wires to the airbag to avoid static electricity potentially causing deployment while working on the part in question. Plus, since it's a critical safety system if the new connector isn't as reliable as what they installed.. what happens in the unlikely event it doesn't function as expected in a wreck?

Personally I'd either spend a bunch of time researching how toyota does their connectors and buy the good crimping tools and make it back as-factory.. (it's all in the factory service manual) or let toyota do it. @4Roses if they try to sell you a floor harness tell them to piss off. This is a simple 2-wire repair for a tech with the right tools and experience.. and they almost certainly have at least one of those around.

Agreed. I got the pins pulled out of the connector (PITA!) and got the replacement part number/s, but I'm checking with the local Toyota service dept. first 'cause it'll probably be a lot faster/easier for them to just put in a brand new connector for me. Embarrassing mistake & unnecessary expense, but I'll mark it up as a learning moment. Now I know

 

[4Roses]

UPDATE (if anyone cares) I talked to my local Toyota dealer over the weekend and they initially said the connector comes together with the harness; it's all one piece that they would have to replace. I showed them their website with the part I can order myself for $12 directly from them. The service guy then told me he would have to check with corporate for liability purposes, etc. and would call me back. I called back after about a week and was told that Toyota would not authorize the repair and requires replacement of the entire harness (approximately $1,500 for the part alone). We both kinda chuckled and he then referred me to another local mechanic who told me to order the part myself and he would just charge me a small labor fee for the install. Lesson here - get help removing your 2nd row seat; the connector can be tricky and the seat is heavier than it seems.

 

[CharlieS]

I suspect the connector (plastic part) is fine, you likely just removed the wires from the pins that are crimped on the ends. If you can get replacement pigtail (toyota offers these for some pin types), or the right pins to reterminate the wires, you might be able to repair it. Most of the connectors on the 200 can be opened and the pins released. You might even get lucky through Digikey or Mouser.

 

[bloc]

UPDATE (if anyone cares) I talked to my local Toyota dealer over the weekend and they initially said the connector comes together with the harness; it's all one piece that they would have to replace. I showed them their website with the part I can order myself for $12 directly from them. The service guy then told me he would have to check with corporate for liability purposes, etc. and would call me back. I called back after about a week and was told that Toyota would not authorize the repair and requires replacement of the entire harness (approximately $1,500 for the part alone). We both kinda chuckled and he then referred me to another local mechanic who told me to order the part myself and he would just charge me a small labor fee for the install. Lesson here - get help removing your 2nd row seat; the connector can be tricky and the seat is heavier than it seems.

I had a feeling they wouldn't want to mess with it.

It's probably worth investigating how the shop plans to repair it. Needless to say this isn't the place for cheap butt splices. Though if you aren't aware, not all crimping is the same. A high quality crimp done the right way is technically better than solder in places with vibration and stresses on the wires.

If the mechanic is any good he'll either know this or plan to solder it. Which I'd be fine with.. -if- it fails it will be a while and give you a light right away.. and will be easy to do again the right way.

 

[4Roses]

I am certainly not an electrical expert. . . probably just barely competent in the basics. From what I can see, it appears to be a relatively straight forward strand wire crimp job that requires the correct tools. That said, I don't know what I don't know. I'm just keeping my eye on getting it fixed without replacing the entire harness. Below is a pic of one of the female connector pins (there are 2) in the connector housing. The wires just got stripped/pulled out . . .

 

[bloc]

I am certainly not an electrical expert. . . probably just barely competent in the basics. From what I can see, it appears to be a relatively straight forward strand wire crimp job that requires the correct tools. That said, I don't know what I don't know. I'm just keeping my eye on getting it fixed without replacing the entire harness. Below is a pic of one of the female connector pins (there are 2) in the connector housing. The wires just got stripped/pulled out . . .

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That looks to be a standard toyota terminal but it’s hard to tell for sure without seeing it in person. I believe the grounding trickery I mentioned earlier is on the airbag-side connector, not that end, so it is plausible it’s standard. I’ve used toyota repair wires that come with the terminal and wire already crimped, and you’d solder/crimp that into the harness.

In this case finding the bare terminal and correct tools would be better. I don’t have access to the FSM at the moment to see if that stuff is available.. I know it talks at length about using the repair wires.

 

[4Roses]

I'm going to keep my fingers crossed and hope the mechanic I found knows how to proceed. I do appreciate all the info and learning opportunities the members on this forum provide. This is an excellent resource. Thank you!

 

[4Roses]

UPDATE #2 - Mechanic I found to re-attach the connector housing was unable to re-use the terminal lance connectors and/or locate correctly sized replacements. The mechanic said that the lances they could find were either slightly bigger or slightly smaller. The mechanic assumes that Toyota might make these difficult on purpose because of liability concerns with the safety systems, etc. As of now, I think that I have to either find a used harness to pigtail into the connector (I think the Sienna uses the same connector housing), or replace the entire harness. I prefer to just replace the entire harness, but I haven't yet been able to find the part number to even price that option. Toyota wants $$$$ to do this for me. If anyone has any part number or suggestions on searches, I'd appreciate a point in the right direction.

 

[grinchy]

Perhaps you can get this connector off a junkyard 200? Have you looked for one in your area?

 

[4Roses]

Perhaps you can get this connector off a junkyard 200? Have you looked for one in your area?

I was considering that. I found out that the same connector is on the Toyota Sienna and I suppose I could be able to cut off the wire on an used harness and pigtail it, but the mechanics I spoke with suggested that as a last resort only. I was able to order the connector housing from Toyota, which makes me question why I can find/order that (presumably for repair purposes), but not the lance terminals that fit into the connector housing. I was hoping that we could re-use the lance terminals, but they are so small that repeat crimps might make the connection fittings unreliable.

 

[bloc]

I was considering that. I found out that the same connector is on the Toyota Sienna and I suppose I could be able to cut off the wire on an used harness and pigtail it, but the mechanics I spoke with suggested that as a last resort only. I was able to order the connector housing from Toyota, which makes me question why I can find/order that (presumably for repair purposes), but not the lance terminals that fit into the connector housing. I was hoping that we could re-use the lance terminals, but they are so small that repeat crimps might make the connection fittings unreliable.

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I’ll see what j can find in the FSM as I have time over the next couple of days but I can assure you you won’t want to pay for a harness. It goes from one end of the truck to the other.. then back up the opposite side. $$$$. And effort, to pull that much carpet and trim. Still, If you post your 12-digit chassis code I can try to dig up the part number.

 

[grinchy]

I'm probably too pragmatic for my own good, but I wouldn't be fussed by a soldered pin if the crimp looked insecure. I know its airbags and all, but a good solid connection is a good solid connection.

 

[4Roses]

you're probably on the right track . . . I may end up just getting it connected any way I can, but I'll try to exhaust all options first.

 

[bloc]

The only real drawback to soldering is it technically makes the wires going into the solder joint more likely to break in a high vibration environment than if they were crimped. This seems pretty unlikely in the life span of our vehicles.. and if it did you’d get an SRS light on the dash immediately.

 

[Txoverland]

Anyone try one of these? Looks like another way to keep that warning light off . . . Airbag Simulator for 2021 & 2022 Toyota Sienna - https://bradshacks.com/product/airbag-simulator/

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came here wondering the same thing, no responses so I’m guessing not. I’m considering pulling my larger second row section but haven’t convinced myself yet.

 

[4Roses]

came here wondering the same thing, no responses so I’m guessing not. I’m considering pulling my larger second row section but haven’t convinced myself yet.

They work . . . I went ahead and got a couple . . . even though those little resistors are a much less expensive option.

 

[bloc]

They work . . . I went ahead and got a couple . . . even though those little resistors are a much less expensive option.

Same. There are less likely to get lost in my toolbox too.

 

[bloc]

Old setup, wrapped in the interior harness tape VW uses. Then the residue that tape leaves behind. Third pic is the round plug version snapped in. About $30 shipped for two. Worth it IMO.