2009 LC 200 Fuel Injector Removal & Service

[Jah310]

Hey everybody,

My 2009 Landcruiser has roughly 200,000 miles on it. I’m looking to have the fuel Injector serviced due to what I believe to be leaky injectors, causing long difficult warm starts. I’ve recently changed out the MAF sensor all the O2 sensors both speed sensors and the PCV valve as part of preventative maintenance. Also the fuel pump was starting to fail, so that’s been replaced.

The long starts have been on and off for the last six months or so, but ever since getting the new fuel pump it seems to be more consistent. This seems to makes sense given the old fuel pump wasn’t pushing the proper pressure and now that the fuel pump is minty fresh I believe one or more of the injectors are leaking after shutdown, specially if the car has run for a while. The unmetered fuel in the combustion chamber could be creating an overly rich environment upon restart. Once the car starts, it runs flawlessly - absolutely no problems. I have no codes check engine lights or anything at the moment.

It seems like pulling the injectors should be pretty easy however I can’t seem to find any write ups or YouTube Videos specifically for the 5.7L LC 200. Knowing the tundra runs the same motor I’ve reviewed those however, the instructions I find for the tundra doesn’t seem to involve removing the intake manifold whereas anything I can find regarding the LC 200 does require removal of the intake manifold.

Can anybody lend their experience or advice on removing the injectors. I plan on sending them out to RC engineering for full rebuilds.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

 

[AcmeSys]

Classic leaky injector hot start issue-
I've used RC in the past for matching high flow injectors in the past on big turbo and blower engines - never used their cleaning services (too far for me to ship and I have a cleaning stand). Solid shop with a good history.

Pulling the rails is easy on the 5.7. Pull the two hose fittings and then 2 bolts to pull the rail and injectors. Do the front hose fitting first so you can see how the locking collar works (lift the orange outer portion radially off the pipe then slide). Have RC send you a handfull of spare o rings for the injector/rail connection in case you tear one. they are pretty tight so do not assemble the rail with the o rings dry.

Edit- You have to pull the airbox to TB pipe and resonator but the intake can stay on

 

[Jah310]

Classic leaky injector hot start issue-
I've used RC in the past for matching high flow injectors in the past on big turbo and blower engines - never used their cleaning services (too far for me to ship and I have a cleaning stand). Solid shop with a good history.

Pulling the rails is easy on the 5.7. Pull the two hose fittings and then 2 bolts to pull the rail and injectors. Do the front hose fitting first so you can see how the locking collar works (lift the orange outer portion radially off the pipe then slide). Have RC send you a handfull of spare o rings for the injector/rail connection in case you tear one. they are pretty tight so do not assemble the rail with the o rings dry.

Edit- You have to pull the airbox to TB pipe and resonator but the intake can stay on

Brilliant thank you. Good to hear the positive feedback on RC. They’re fairly local to me so it seems like a no brainer. Good call on the extra O Rings.

So in your experience, no need to pull the intake prior to removing to rail?

Thanks again.

 

[AcmeSys]

intake stay on. use a compressor and blow any crap out before disassembly but there is no reason to pull the intake - the rail is like 1.5" outboard of the runners- tons of room

 

[Jah310]

Awesome - thanks. That’s what I was hoping for. Cheers

 

[bloc]

Another RC endorsement here on a few different sets of injectors over the years. Great business.

This has been on my radar for a while even though I don’t have the hot start issue.. just clearing 220k and figure it couldn’t hurt.

OP if you think about it please post with your results.

 

[Jah310]

Another RC endorsement here on a few different sets of injectors over the years. Great business.

This has been on my radar for a while even though I don’t have the hot start issue.. just clearing 220k and figure it couldn’t hurt.

OP if you think about it please post with your results.

Yep will do. Not exactly sure when I’ll get around to doing this but once I do I’ll circle back

 

[Jah310]

All right, so I finally got around to tackling this project. Pulling the rails, especially on the driver side really wasn’t too bad. The passenger side was more challenging due to all the wires and tighter space..

Unfortunately when fighting the passenger side harness I accidentally broke loose a set of three wires that are attached to a connector for a sensor on the passenger side head. There are three wires that came out of the end of the connector... The connector to the sensor is fine but the wire came out. See the pics below.

Anybody know what kind of connector this is? Anyone know how to reattached the wires to the connector? Or maybe where I can get a pigtail for it? Also need to figure out which of the three wires go to which of the connector leads. Not sure which sensor this is yet…

I thought we were all good then I happen to look down and saw it disconnected.

Any help would be much appreciated!!

Sending the injectors out to RC tomorrow …

 

[Jah310]

I dug into this a bit and I’m pretty sure the sensor is the camshaft position sensor for bank one.Toyota OEM part number: 90919-05079

Now I just need help figuring how to the repair the connector. The harness has three wires that come out of the connector. (See pic below).

It seems like I should be able to take the connector apart and re-splice the wires in one way or another however, I’m unfamiliar with that connector type. Alternatively, if I can get a used pigtail to that harness and simply solder a “new” connector into the harness, that could work too.

 

[Jah310]

Okay - I think I found the correct pigtail. I’m going to order this one up and see if it fits.

Position Sensor Connector Pigtail 6189-1129 For Toyota Lexus Scion Camshaft

If it does then I’ll just need to confirm which wire goes where.

Let me know if I’m off track here.

 

[Jah310]

Pig tail worked great - easy fix. Figured out which wires went where by simply taking a look at the other 3 camshaft sensors. Soldered the pigtail in and we were good to go.

Also got my injectors back from RC and it appears four were leaky and four had significant spray inadequacies- see results below.

New injectors looking minty fresh!

Picked up some new fuel rail harnesses and put everything back together.

 

[Jah310]

While I was in there I replaced all 8 spark plugs as well

All the coil packs were all in great shape - plugs looked like they were ready for a refresh though.

Car is running great - smooth as ever.

But…. The warm starts after sitting for 30+mins are still happening! Cold starts are perfect, warm starts without sitting are perfect. It’s just warm starts after a heat soak that are sill causing long starts.

In addition to the above, I’ve recently replaced the MAF sensor, all 4 O2 sensors, the PCV valve, and the fuel pump. I think I’m down to checking the EVAP Purge Valve ( although the resistance is within spec and I tested to make sure the valve functions properly with 12v going into it - I guess the actual valve could not be holding a seal causing unmetered fuel vapors to enter the intake ).

The other two options I can think of are the fuel pump check valve or the fuel pressure regulator both of which I believe are housed in the actual fuel pump assembly which recently got replaced…seems unlikely.

I thought for sure with the four 4 injectors dripping I had found the problem, but apparently not. I’ve got to be close… any other ideas?

Thanks!

 

[Dixon Santana]

Have you verified the fuel pump driver/control module?

89571-60060​

Sort of a common failure on the Tundra. May take a look at this to verify proper operation. Could be a failed FP control module above a certain temp.

 

[Dixon Santana]

While I was in there I replaced all 8 spark plugs as well

View attachment 4014444

All the coil packs were all in great shape - plugs looked like they were ready for a refresh though.

View attachment 4014446View attachment 4014447
Car is running great - smooth as ever.

But…. The warm starts after sitting for 30+mins are still happening! Cold starts are perfect, warm starts without sitting are perfect. It’s just warm starts after a heat soak that are sill causing long starts.

In addition to the above, I’ve recently replaced the MAF sensor, all 4 O2 sensors, the PCV valve, and the fuel pump. I think I’m down to checking the EVAP Purge Valve ( although the resistance is within spec and I tested to make sure the valve functions properly with 12v going into it - I guess the actual valve could not be holding a seal causing unmetered fuel vapors to enter the intake ).

The other two options I can think of are the fuel pump check valve or the fuel pressure regulator both of which I believe are housed in the actual fuel pump assembly which recently got replaced…seems unlikely.

I thought for sure with the four 4 injectors dripping I had found the problem, but apparently not. I’ve got to be close… any other ideas?

Thanks!

Would love to know what the culprit on this was!

 

[Jah310]

Would love to know what the culprit on this was!

You and me both - as I learn more I’ll update the thread.

I picked up a new Vapor Canister Vacuum Regulator part 258600s010…

I understand if it fails they can cause unmetered fuel onto the intake, causing along warm starts. It was relatively cheap and the old one’s resistance read bit higher than what I was finding online so I gave it an go. Unfortunately no dice.


Haven’t had time to get back into it yet…

 

[Jah310]

Circling back on this…Turns out the OEM Toyota fuel pump we replaced to fix an elevated long term fuel trim issue was causing fuel pressure to drop after turning the motor off. Replaced that fuel pump with an other OEM Toyota pump and the issue has seemed to go away.

Over thanksgiving we completed a 1600 mile trip down to Baja with no issues. The truck ran as strong as ever with no codes or issues. Hoping it stays that way!

Thanks for all the help.

 

[GrouchyTech]

(it’s almost never leaky injectors with the 5.7)

 

[Jah310]

(it’s almost never leaky injectors with the 5.7).

Good to know - either way they needed to be serviced. 200k on them with only 4 of the 8 working to spec.