-20* Cold Start Oil Leak (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Threads
14
Messages
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Location
Alaska
-20* up here in Alaska and just went out to warm up the 80 and saw massive amounts of oil spewing out of the drivers side upper pan area. So I took a quick video and then shut her down. The oil looks as thick as molasses. It turned over and started without issue

1996 with about 108k on the clock.
Mobil 1 5w30
No engine mods
Last year I sent my winter oil to Blackstone and they gave a rave review suggesting that the cold starts were having little to no effect on my oil and suggested moving to 9k oil change intervals.
I bought this rig (my 3rd 80) last year with 84k on it and now I daily drive this one. No obvious leaks prior to this.

Looks like I’m towing this somewhere because working on it in the driveway at -20 is not an option.

Any obvious suggestions on where to start or what to look at first? Looks like I may start running 0w40.
@Mark_W

Thanks,
Rick

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Can't think of what else would be over there that would spew that much oil other than the oil pump o ring or the distributor o ring if it's not the pan.
 
Either that or you actually driving an SR-71 Blackbird and not telling us. They had to warm up several hundred degrees to seal the leaks.

That spewed out, so your looking for a pressurized port, O-ring on the oil filter failure? That would be really odd. I've lived in places that went to -30F for weeks at a time and never had that problem. Per chance Did you change or have some one change your oil recently and the filter wasn't properly tightened?
 
Either that or you actually driving an SR-71 Blackbird and not telling us. They had to warm up several hundred degrees to seal the leaks.

That spewed out, so your looking for a pressurized port, O-ring on the oil filter failure? That would be really odd. I've lived in places that went to -30F for weeks at a time and never had that problem. Per chance Did you change or have some one change your oil recently and the filter wasn't properly tightened?
Another good thought.
 
No oil change lately (look at the color of that oil :) ). But I must admit, that would be amazing if that’s what it was. I might actually be able to fix that in the cold. It would be hard to believe that was the dizzy o ring. Seeing how it’s way back over the axle, I don’t think it’s oil pump or dizzy I ring. My first thought was oil pan or upper oil pan.
 
First of all, 1996 FZJ80 with 108K, impressive, especially in Alaska. That doesn't look like oil. Going to go out on a limb and say that's 108K old ATF from the power steering system.
 
Either that or you actually driving an SR-71 Blackbird and not telling us. They had to warm up several hundred degrees to seal the leaks.

That spewed out, so your looking for a pressurized port, O-ring on the oil filter failure? That would be really odd. I've lived in places that went to -30F for weeks at a time and never had that problem. Per chance Did you change or have some one change your oil recently and the filter wasn't properly tightened?
^^^
I'll bet he's right. The location you describe is about where the oil filter is and there's nothing else that has a pressure port for engine oil.

Do you have a WIX oil filter? If so, get that s*** off there NOW! Get a Toyota filter.
 
Thanks MUD. Crisis averted!

I went and spent some more time poking around and the trail of oil lead right to the oil filter. I think it’s a NAPA Premium filter of some sort (I forgot to look at the label). I started it up and sure enough, it started oozing out all around. I’ll pick up a replacement filter and look into a thinner oil.

Without opening Pandora’s box, what’s the consensus for the thinner oils? 0-30 or 0-40? Or something else.

Thanks again for your help.
Rick

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Yeah, I get the cigar!
The zero weights won't hurt anything, they will pump faster to the top of the engine.
Back when I was researching these beasties I ran across a Toyota published sheet for all the oils that are acceptable in the 1FZ, basically if it was wet and oily it was OK, must have listed 20-30 different viscosity oils. I'll see if I can find it again.
 
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this is not the list I'm thinking of, but .....
Toyota 1FZ engine specs

ManufacturerTahara Plant
Also calledToyota 1FZ
Production1984-2007
Cylinder block alloyCast-iron
ConfigurationStraight-6
ValvetrainDOHC
4 valves per cylinder
Piston stroke, mm (inch)95 (3.74)
Cylinder bore, mm (inch)100 (3.94)
Compression ratio8.1
9.0
Displacement4476 cc (273.1 cu in)
Power output140 kW (190 HP) at 4,400 rpm
158 kW (215 HP) at 4,600 rpm
Torque output363 Nm (268 lb·ft) at 2,800 rpm
373 Nm (275 lb·ft) at 3,200 rpm
Redline5,000
HP per liter42.4
48.0
Fuel typeGasoline
Weight, kg (lbs)265 (584)
Fuel consumption, L/100 km (mpg)
-City
-Highway
-Combined
for Lexus LX450
18.0 (13)
15.0 (15)
16.8 (14)
Turbocharger Naturally aspirated
Oil consumption , L/1000 km
(qt. per miles)
up to 1.0
(1 qt. per 750 miles)
Recommended engine oil5W-30
5W-40
1oW-30
10W-40
10W-50
15W-40
15W-50
Engine oil capacity, L (qt.)7.4 (7.8)
Oil change interval, km (miles)5,000-10,000
(3,000-6,000)
Normal engine operating temperature, °C (F)
Engine lifespan, km (miles)
-Official information
-Real


400,000+ (250,000)
Tuning, HP
-Max HP
-No life span loss

300+
The engine is installed inToyota Land Cruiser
Lexus LX450
 
I ran 10 30 in my cruiser living in Gunnison where we would get -20 plus worse for couple months in the winter was never issue. Have had power steering lines burst though. I’d stick with 5 30 or 10 30
 
Thanks MUD. Crisis averted!

I went and spent some more time poking around and the trail of oil lead right to the oil filter. I think it’s a NAPA Premium filter of some sort (I forgot to look at the label). I started it up and sure enough, it started oozing out all around. I’ll pick up a replacement filter and look into a thinner oil.

Without opening Pandora’s box, what’s the consensus for the thinner oils? 0-30 or 0-40? Or something else.

Thanks again for your help.
Rick

View attachment 2176976
If that's a NAPA premium filter, it's a WIX. Get rid of it.

Go Toyota. This is not me being a purist, it's saving your engine.
 
Nooooo! Say it ain’t so... I’ve read the WIX thread and was trying to stay away. Closest Toyota dealership isn’t very close but I may have a take a trip tomorrow.
 
If you have one of those halogen shop lights, the kind that put out a lot of heat. Since there is no open flame, not likely to ignight anything if untended. If I have no other option, I’ve left one under the rig overnight, just to get some heat under the hood.
 
If you have one of those halogen shop lights, the kind that put out a lot of heat. Since there is no open flame, not likely to ignight anything if untended. If I have no other option, I’ve left one under the rig overnight, just to get some heat under the hood.

I am doing this now. I have used this method in many different situations. My 80 is starting comfortably and is blowing warm air within 12 mins. I am using an interior heater as well to keep the inside comfortable. The light I am using just purchased at HD, 600w HDX, 16-17 dollars. I am in SC Ak. I should add that I have covered the front with synthetic blankets (used for this purpose). I setup this when the 80 is still warm. The light is placed in front of the oil pan.
 
First thing is do you have a oil pan heater? If not get one. Did you check to see if your pcv valve is frozen? Ditch the wix filter and go OEM. I'm in fairbanks its -40 here right now and with the correct heaters (batttery, oil and coolant) you should have any issues. My HDJ81 has 372k on it and with little complaining fires up and runs at these temps.
 
First thing is do you have a oil pan heater? If not get one. Did you check to see if your pcv valve is frozen? Ditch the wix filter and go OEM. I'm in fairbanks its -40 here right now and with the correct heaters (batttery, oil and coolant) you should have any issues. My HDJ81 has 372k on it and with little complaining fires up and runs at these temps.
Surprised you don't need a fuel heater at those temps. I work for a fleet and when its that cold we have to go thaw out the fuel tanks before we can start them. That or change the fuel filters 3 times before they get into the shop. A lot of our trucks have a 120v heater in the fuel/water separators aka davco's. They keep the filter and housing warm but wouldn't keep up with a running engine.
 
No heaters needed, in the winter you run diesel #1 its a blend. its very dry and needs to have lubricity added, i run howes, atf or mystery oil.
 
So how did this happen? Did the oil in the filter get so cold, that viscosity was too high to allow oil to flow through the element?

It looks like black licorice pudding.
 

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