2/75 rebuild (1 Viewer)

[65swb45]

Nolan

First off, I've said it before, and I'll say it again. Bionic. Your tub is better than new! Your skill is equally matched by your patience.

Question on your fan shroud. 2Fs, especially the ones running the plastic fan, used the shallower shroud with the wider opening. Your 2/75 should have come with one of those. So...???

 

[gator25]

Back to the tub, it's time to get the bed in. But first I've got to get the sill in the right spot, who ever put the tube sill and quarters on made it tuff. They just wrapped the quarters around the rotten corners, which were way out.

Same on the other side.

I was left scratching my head, I didn't know what to do. Neither one of the corner channels were square, plum or the same front to back. It was a mess, I started a thread about the measurements at the rear. @thebigredrocker provided a lot of the measurements along with others. Finally I got the nerve to cut out the sill.

Really though I was over thinking it, and was more worried then I should have been. Things started moving again, and the cut off wheel went to throwing sparks.

Man, whoever put this thing together last oughta to be shot!

 

[gator25]

Nolan

First off, I've said it before, and I'll say it again. Bionic. Your tub is better than new! Your skill is equally matched by your patience.

Question on your fan shroud. 2Fs, especially the ones running the plastic fan, used the shallower shroud with the wider opening. Your 2/75 should have come with one of those. So...???

Thanks Mark, and thanks for the fast shipping on those parts too man.

Lmao, hell Mark I didn't know. I knew it was kind of finicky where it needed to be, in order for it not rub or the fan not to hit it man. I just thought that was the way it came and just dealt with it. @65swb45 post a pic of what your talking bout on the shroud when you get time.

 

[gator25]

So after finding the corners rotted and filled with bondo, cut them out and ordered new ones from Real Steel.View attachment 1522821 Seeing how the inner fender piece that the corner welds to was rotten it got cut out as well. Should have replaced both inner fenders, hind sights 20/20. Someone did a real nice job of adding some support to the corners by mudding in some square tube.

Tacked in new metal for the corners to weld to.

This is where it gets interesting, temporarily tacked in the corners just to see how everything was going to fit. Not good, the tube that was previously put in by PO to replace the rear sill was shorter then the new rear sill by 5/16". So the bottom edges of the quarters had to be rolled out. The rear opening for the doors were also not right. It was fine at the bottom where the sill met but belled out at the top. Should be 41 1/2"at the rear most opening...there about.

This pic should show what I'm trying to say.

 

[gator25]

Only way to fix the rear opening was either cut the quarters off or cut it at the back and add to them. So the path of least resistance was chosen. Still a lot of work. A cut off wheel was used to cut the lip of the quarter, right before it wrapped around the corner from top to bottom. Then a thin piece was added and welded in, this was done on both sides.

 

[gator25]

Here's one of the other side. I can't believe I didn't get more pics. of this being done.

Then the final measurement.

The rear sill was next to get fitted now that the corners were close and the edges of the quarters were done.

Ended up having to cut the corners back lose and move them forward so the rear bottom edge would fit flush. Another words the bend in the sill and the quarters did not match and there was a gap between them. Bringing the corners and sill forward a little got the bends to match. View attachment 1523378

Sill is pretty much done at this point.

 

[gator25]

Those pics are of the welds at the bottom edge where I had to remake the transition at the lip of the quarters. Here's a good one before the bed got put in, it shows the bottom edge I'm referring to before being finished.

I marked where the bed floor was before cutting it out, if I were to replace the inner fenders I would have measured down from the top lip of the tub. You can see the white marks this was done on both sides.

The heat shield brackets got welded on before the bed was tacked in.

That little strip of metal at the front of the bed is hiding a big Boo Boo, that front edge got cut way to much. Remember, measure twice cut once. Oh and don't drink to many of these while your doing all that!

Got it welded in then added the other 14ga support brace, along with a piece of bent 16ga to finish off hiding that boo boo. That tub is going to be stout as hell!

 

[gator25]

Got that pretty much done and flipped her back over and dropped her on the chassis. Whadduyano all the mount bolt holes line up.

Someone along the way had put 1/8 plate on top of the inner fender wells, and my what a great job they did! To hid the 1/2" gap between the top plate and quarter they added a piece of aluminum angle which was secured with only seam sealer. If it had ever rolled the wheel wells would have collapsed.

The other side.

Well I don't know why in the hell I didn't just go ahead and cut this crap out, the added strength wasn't worth the headache. Drilled holes in the new tops, cut most of the flange off and cut the top flange so it would follow the contour of the quarter better.

Screwed it down to locate more holes to weld it to the plate.

 

[gator25]

Drilled more holes painted the back with weld thru primer and primer sealer. Then screwed her back down and tacked it down.

Not worth the trouble but stout. Had to build up that inside corner and the front corner with weld then smooth it back down to make it look right. Took a while! Then did the same to the other side.

This might come in handy for someone, part number for the gasket. Remember 1 to a package you need 2.

Then it was time to see how the top was going to line up, mark and adj. the holes for the hinge backing plates. The hinges came with wood screws holding them to the tub.

 

[imyahucklbrry]

Impressive.... as always! Smart list of rides in your garage too - how bout a pic of the Chevelle?

 

[gator25]

Thanks @imyahucklbrry I'll pop the hood on her soon and give you a peek of that old 454 roller motor. Here's my shovel around the same time getting her 5 speed gone through.

Changed out the shift paw assy. with a Baker unit, all the bearings got replaced. Here the needle bearings and thrust washers on the main shaft got swapped out.

The counter shaft and gear cluster. Main shaft about done.

Main drive gear and bearing the main shaft goes thru it gets pressed in the case. That tapered end in the above pic. is what goes thru the drive gear and where the clutch basket rides. The front sprocket fits on the splines of the drive gear and threaded portion on the drive gear is where the 1 7/8" nut secures it.

Going back together. Here's the primary, front sprocket is the compensating sprocket, rear sprocket is made on the clutch basket.

Figured y'all may find the guts of an ole shovel interesting, believe or not these old bikes are pretty reliable when properly maintained. I swapped in a bigger front final drive sprocket 23 tooth with a 49 rear to get the R's down some.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Bud Light? Really?

Must be a LSU fan also!!!!!!!

Looking good Nolan, you have a ton of work in that rear section. Show us a pic of how it looks today!

 

[gator25]

LOL I would love to Ryan but its still in S'port getting painted, here's what it looked like when we dropped it off @rkymtnflyfisher But no kidding it should be ready soon.

 

[gator25]

Yep you guessed it Ryan @rkymtnflyfisher , I'm a LSU fan. My younger brother is a LSU Fanatic! I'm just a snuff dipping, motorcycle riding gear head / country boy, from the bottoms of Black Lake. Actually Poland Creek, but it all runs into Black Lake.

Got the rear fender wells about done, then all those holes had to be filled where I cut out the supports. A thin piece of scrap was bent to hold the plug in the hole from the back side, after the plug was tacked to the end. The plugs were made with a cut off wheel.

The first of many.

 

[gator25]

Who ever put the quarters on, didn't put the reinforcement plates in for the spare carrier or ambi door hinges. The spare carrier plate had to be cut down some to allow for the thickness of the 1/8' plate, that was left on top of the fender wells. Wasn't to hard to figure out where it needed to be because of its shape.

The carrier was bolted on to find where the hook needed to land on the later model sill. At the time that was all I could find, so being the hardhead I am decided to make it work with the 75 carrier. Some one I finally figured out, had put a barn door latch on the carrier at some point. I got the latch and hook from Classic Cruisers. All those tacks along the sides were filled in later along with that terrible edge.

Once we found the right parts it was mounted new holes were drilled the others filled.

 

[gator25]

Of course the carrier had to be rebuilt.

There were cracks to be addressed.

Knew there would be rust to, soooo. Started by filling in the extra holes.

 

[gator25]

Holes filled in pretty good.

Started taking it apart, first had to find the spot welds. Used some course grit sand paper.

Once they were found, took a center punch to them.

Then you know the drill, 1/8" or so.

 

[gator25]

Really like the Blair cutters.

They made quick work of it. Cut the tabs that were not broke all the off so the brace could be removed.

Made it easier to get to those.

Cleaned off the nasty beveled the back after tacking up outside.

Figured I'd show almost step by step might help someone starting out,

This the other side, of course both pieces were clamped down when I started.

 

[gator25]

Here's a shot about how the tacks should lay over each other.

Finally just said the hell with it and made some tabs to weld on.

Put her back together, it will be a lot easier if you can save the original tabs.

Pretty easy to tell which way it goes, oh and do yourself a favor and clean the primer off before you start. I had primed it because it was going to be a while before I got back to it. Needs to be clean of epoxy primer, its a PITA if you don't.

Getting the tabs just right took a bit.

 

[gator25]

Ok last one, I got a pic somewhere of it painted.

I know most of y'all remember the transmission hump. What POS!

Best thing I found to remove the tar like under coating is, Bug and Tar Remover imagine that! After chipping off the big pieces on top with small hammer and screwdriver, be careful you can gouge the metal.
Just started adding metal. There are thin, I used 20ga I believe.

It was bad oil canned, another words it would pop in and out when you applied pressure. I used new transmission and t-case shifter boots to get a idea where they needed to lay.

Lots to fill but I've seen worse on here repaired.