2-2.5" AHC Lift Using King Coils & Shock Spacers (4 Viewers)

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“Obviously you've got a decent wheeling rig already - I'd probably stay as close to stock as possible on your wife's rig just because it works fine the way it is. Some 33's and using AHC in high on occasion is probably the easiest route, and spend the extra time and maintenance on your main wheeling 100.”

One way or another I need to tear apart my wife’s suspension. I got this LX for a hair over $4000 as a running project when the previous owner gave up on it. The PO paid for the installation of what I call the half ass lift. It has tall medium load OME rear springs,and AHC torsion bars in the front, and nitro charger sport shocks all the way around. AHC TB’s with nitro charger shocks feel under spring, and over damped. I could just put in the non-AHC OEM Landcruiser take out torsion bars I got for a local shop, or upgrade to OME TB’s like my LX470 has.

When I got a complete 2004 parts LX with all the AHC parts intact my wife requested I reinstall the AHC parts on her rig, but set it up with a 2”+ suspension lift, and have it able to carry a load, or tow the horse trailer, or bring 6 kids, 2 mom’s, and all their gear.

Seems everyone on Maui after the last 2 weeks wants an apocalypse escape vehicle. I cannot blame her. For daily driving she has a Prius wagon which is awaiting the delivery of a 2” Suspension Lift and some All Terrain tires.

On her LX470 I do not want to do a sensor lift, I have been collecting suspension parts. I have a diff drop bracket and all new bushings for the diff housing. The last part I need to order are aftermarket UCA’s.

On Maui we have no need to have freeway speed stability since the highest speed limit we have is 55mph. We also have some very demanding backcountry lava rock trails and we are looking at some remote property that is only accessible by what passes for a “Road” and is littered with carcasses of dead lesser 4x4’s long abandoned along its edges.

The pasture where our horse lives is a half hour off pavement off of a rugged track as well. My wife loves to take friends and kids to remote places from up the mountain, down to the ocean, and out muddy jungle tracks to waterfalls.

At this point my LX rides better than hers, and she might just take it over if I cannot make hers more comfortable without losing the lifted look or capability to go in the same trails to remote places I go to on our rugged island home.

Recently she had to bring me an extra spare tire for my 4x4 wrecker Inget LX cause she was in town near my baseyard. I was on an Offroad rescue a half hour off the pavement on the trail and with a broken 4runner on the hook, and I had a sharp lava rock wedge between the duallys and puncture both sidewalls. She drives kind of hard Offroad and kept up with the side by side we sent to the gate to let her in and bring her up the trail.

One way or another I need to dive into the 98 LX suspension woes. Obviously it will be cheaper and easier to update the front torsion bars and tune to match what is already in the back. It will make my wife happier to have the comfort of a functional AHC suspension. Her request was to model the lift that was the original Subject of this thread when I told her about it.

I’m not saying it’s entirely rational, but given where we live and where she was raised, She wants to be able to get through a hurricane, clearing downed trees and flood waters if needed.

There is also the cultural relevance; Lifted Toyota trucks with aggressive tires are a huge part of local culture here in hawaii.
 
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I am running the Japan 4x4 spacers with stock reindexed tbs and they still have room. As stated earlier by others, the spacers will cause the factory uca to wear a hole in the front shock dust shield so I found some that have the ahc bracket (freedom off-road). With my weight and preferred tire size Kings springs with spacers couldn’t get the rear where I wanted it so I have ome springs in the back. I installed extended sway links front and rear but there was way too much front roll so I went back to stock length.

There’s definitely a lot of time in adjusting everything and that comes with a level of frustration, but at 40 psi I barely feel the road so I am very happy with how it came out. It still rides really well for a truck with all my stupid add ons weighing it down.
Are you reading AHC pressures with TechStream? Were you able to get the front back to 6.9? Are re-indexed bars with all that weight/extra height bouncy, slow to recover from a bump, or nose dive upon braking? Sorry for all the questions but your experience is really valuable. Thanks!
 
One way or another I need to dive into the 98 LX suspension woes. Obviously it will be cheaper and easier to update the front torsion bars and tune to match what is already in the back. It will make my wife happier to have the comfort of a functional AHC suspension. Her request was to model the lift that was the original Subject of this thread when I told her about it.

It's 100% doable, just expect it to be a lot of work and expense. I'm quite happy with my current set up, it just took me quite a long time to get to a situation where everything seems to work as I wanted.

I may have to abandon the ahc one day but I can't imagine it happening anytime soon. If you put the effort in to get everything working happy together you'll be happy with the result.

This thread has pretty much all the details about how to do the AHC lift right. You definitely want the AHC spacers though.

Are you reading AHC pressures with TechStream? Were you able to get the front back to 6.9? Are re-indexed bars with all that weight/extra height bouncy, slow to recover from a bump, or nose dive upon braking? Sorry for all the questions but your experience is really valuable. Thanks!

I'm not the person you asked, but I ran the AHC bars with around 1.5-2 inches of lift. It rode fine and didn't feel under sprung. The AHC pressures were in the mid-6mpa range. Sitting in the driveway my LX weighs around 6200lbs.

The only issue I had was excessive lift when I stood on the throttle.

Example:



My theory for the above behavior is that:
  1. More down travel thanks to AHC spacers
  2. Super-cranked AHC bars take a LOT of travel to unload (IE since they're preloaded so far, they have to untwist a lot before there's a significant reduction in spring force)

Going to the non-AHC bars fixed the crazy lift issue but at the expense of comfort - it's definitely noticeably harsher. But the stiffer bars require far less preload to handle the weight, so they unload much quicker as well.

This is why I'm looking at getting the custom bars from swayaway that are hopefully around the happy medium between the AHC and non-AHC bars.
 
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“Obviously you've got a decent wheeling rig already - I'd probably stay as close to stock as possible on your wife's rig just because it works fine the way it is. Some 33's and using AHC in high on occasion is probably the easiest route, and spend the extra time and maintenance on your main wheeling 100.”

One way or another I need to tear apart my wife’s suspension. I got this LX for a hair over $4000 as a running project when the previous owner gave up on it. The PO paid for the installation of what I call the half ass lift. It has tall medium load OME rear springs,and AHC torsion bars in the front, and nitro charger sport shocks all the way around. AHC TB’s with nitro charger shocks feel under spring, and over damped. I could just put in the non-AHC OEM Landcruiser take out torsion bars I got for a local shop, or upgrade to OME TB’s like my LX470 has.

When I got a complete 2004 parts LX with all the AHC parts intact my wife requested I reinstall the AHC parts on her rig, but set it up with a 2”+ suspension lift, and have it able to carry a load, or tow the horse trailer, or bring 6 kids, 2 mom’s, and all their gear.

Seems everyone on Maui after the last 2 weeks wants an apocalypse escape vehicle. I cannot blame her. For daily driving she has a Prius wagon which is awaiting the delivery of a 2” Suspension Lift and some All Terrain tires.

On her LX470 I do not want to do a sensor lift, I have been collecting suspension parts. I have a diff drop bracket and all new bushings for the diff housing. The last part I need to order are aftermarket UCA’s.

On Maui we have no need to have freeway speed stability since the highest speed limit we have is 55mph. We also have some very demanding backcountry lava rock trails and we are looking at some remote property that is only accessible by what passes for a “Road” and is littered with carcasses of dead lesser 4x4’s long abandoned along its edges.

The pasture where our horse lives is a half hour off pavement off of a rugged track as well. My wife loves to take friends and kids to remote places from up the mountain, down to the ocean, and out muddy jungle tracks to waterfalls.

At this point my LX rides better than hers, and she might just take it over if I cannot make hers more comfortable without losing the lifted look or capability to go in the same trails to remote places I go to on our rugged island home.

Recently she had to bring me an extra spare tire for my 4x4 wrecker Inget LX cause she was in town near my baseyard. I was on an Offroad rescue a half hour off the pavement on the trail and with a broken 4runner on the hook, and I had a sharp lava rock wedge between the duallys and puncture both sidewalls. She drives kind of hard Offroad and kept up with the side by side we sent to the gate to let her in and bring her up the trail.

One way or another I need to dive into the 98 LX suspension woes. Obviously it will be cheaper and easier to update the front torsion bars and tune to match what is already in the back. It will make my wife happier to have the comfort of a functional AHC suspension. Her request was to model the lift that was the original Subject of this thread when I told her about it.

I’m not saying it’s entirely rational, but given where we live and where she was raised, She wants to be able to get through a hurricane, clearing downed trees and flood waters if needed.

There is also the cultural relevance; Lifted Toyota trucks with aggressive tires are a huge part of local culture here in hawaii.
Plenty of people want to look lifted. You said you don’t want a sensor lift. But just messing with the sensors alone I’d agree. However what a proper sensor lift entails is what others are describing. Adjusting sensors to make it sit at the correct height you want, then mess with Tbars and rear springs to get AHC pressures proper. An AHC vehicle can only be lifted with the sensors as a good portion of the weight is carried by the hydraulics. So that’s why you need weaker springs than usual. From reading other posts it seems you’ll be able to use your stock front bars but will have to change the rears to OEM AHC springs with spacers unless you have a ton of extra weight back there. Then maybe Japan extenders and UCA with sensor bracket.
How deleted is your system? Do you have the major components such as the pump/resovoir combo in corner of engine compartment next to passenger side firewall? There are 4 globes plus the assembly they are screwed into plus a tube like accumulator under drives door area. It’s maybe 3” by 10”. How are ends of piping where hoses used to go to shocks(rams)? I hope capped not crimped. At a minimum you’ll need 4 globes ($110 each at Impex) plus four shocks and their hoses and a ton of Toyota AHC fluid only. A vacuum bleeder will usually help get the air out of the 5 bleed points. Put your vin in at Partsouq and get the control numbers off the diagrams to obtain the actual part number from the chart. Then shop Impex prices as well.

 
It's 100% doable, just expect it to be a lot of work and expense. I'm quite happy with my current set up, it just took me quite a long time to get to a situation where everything seems to work as I wanted.

I may have to abandon the ahc one day but I can't imagine it happening anytime soon. If you put the effort in to get everything working happy together you'll be happy with the result.

This thread has pretty much all the details about how to do the AHC lift right. You definitely want the AHC spacers though.



I'm not the person you asked, but I ran the AHC bars with around 1.5-2 inches of lift. It rode fine and didn't feel under sprung. The AHC pressures were in the mid-6mpa range. Sitting in the driveway my LX weighs around 6200lbs.

The only issue I had was excessive lift when I stood on the throttle.

Example:



My theory for the above behavior is that:
  1. More down travel thanks to AHC spacers
  2. Super-cranked AHC bars take a LOT of travel to unload (IE since they're preloaded so far, they have to untwist a lot before there's a significant reduction in spring force)

Going to the non-AHC bars fixed the crazy lift issue but at the expense of comfort - it's definitely noticeably harsher. But the stiffer bars require far less preload to handle the weight, so they unload much quicker as well.

This is why I'm looking at getting the custom bars from swayaway that are hopefully around the happy medium between the AHC and non-AHC bars.

Wow! You install a blower and nitrous 😀
 
Are you reading AHC pressures with TechStream? Were you able to get the front back to 6.9? Are re-indexed bars with all that weight/extra height bouncy, slow to recover from a bump, or nose dive upon braking? Sorry for all the questions but your experience is really valuable. Thanks!
I have plugged this thing in 172 times 😂. I made adjustments after each addition. My fronts are spot on but the rear pressure is around 4 but that was before the roof tent and the camping gear I usually carry.

It certainly has some front lift under heavy acceleration but it’s not noticeable in normal driving. There’s no excessive nose dive and it’s not bouncy. I still have about an inch of rake and I think that helps. The rear might take an extra .25 second to reset from a hard speed bump but it’s not noticeable in normal driving and doesn’t feel “off”. It still has full height adjustment. After reindexing the front I don’t feel like I would need to change them. Retaining the soft ride was my priority.

There was excessive rear body roll due to the weight and the rear ome springs while a little over-sprung, handle the weight comfortably and corrected that. I’ve tried 6-7 rear spring and spacer combinations before I got it to where it is.
 
Plenty of people want to look lifted. You said you don’t want a sensor lift. But just messing with the sensors alone I’d agree. However what a proper sensor lift entails is what others are describing. Adjusting sensors to make it sit at the correct height you want, then mess with Tbars and rear springs to get AHC pressures proper. An AHC vehicle can only be lifted with the sensors as a good portion of the weight is carried by the hydraulics. So that’s why you need weaker springs than usual. From reading other posts it seems you’ll be able to use your stock front bars but will have to change the rears to OEM AHC springs with spacers unless you have a ton of extra weight back there. Then maybe Japan extenders and UCA with sensor bracket.
How deleted is your system? Do you have the major components such as the pump/resovoir combo in corner of engine compartment next to passenger side firewall? There are 4 globes plus the assembly they are screwed into plus a tube like accumulator under drives door area. It’s maybe 3” by 10”. How are ends of piping where hoses used to go to shocks(rams)? I hope capped not crimped. At a minimum you’ll need 4 globes ($110 each at Impex) plus four shocks and their hoses and a ton of Toyota AHC fluid only. A vacuum bleeder will usually help get the air out of the 5 bleed points. Put your vin in at Partsouq and get the control numbers off the diagrams to obtain the actual part number from the chart. Then shop Impex prices as well.

I have the pump, reservoir, ECU, switches, height sensors, plumbing and globes in place. Only the shocks and lines to the shocks are removed. I need to crawl under there to see if they capped them or crimped them off. Hopefully just capped, but I have the complete parts rig too.
 
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I have the pump, reservoir, ECU, switches, height sensors, plumbing and globes in place. Only the shocks and lines to the shocks are removed. I need to crawl under there to see if they capped them or crimped them off. Hopefully just capped, but I have the complete parts rig too.
The parts rig saves it. Whatever may be broken would probably work on the parts rig. Does the parts rig have the shocks with hoses??? They either work or they don’t. They are rams so they don’t have valves that wear out like real shocks. No need to buy new ones. When you are finally done you’ll probably need globes (because they do slowly wear out)but in the meantime you can beat up on the old ones. So I’d start by getting TechStream working if you haven’t already. It’s a bit of a pain since it needs to run in a windows XP environment. Check the latest suggestions here on mud. The other thing to check is how it gets deleted electronically so you know how to reverse. Just pull a fuse? That’s it?? I don’t know.

 
FYI the shocks can and do wear out, but not from valve wear. All four on my truck have been replaced:
  • One front wore through the shaft until the fluid started leaking. Took me a while to figure that one out.
  • Other front wore through the rubber bushing and could not be unbolted - had to be cut off. The shock was still good until I took a grinder to it.
  • One rear started leaking around shaft seal
  • Other rear was fine but we replaced anyway since we were in there
From what I've seen, it is rare, and you're 100% right that they don't need to be replaced as standard maintenance like regular shocks do.
 
The parts rig saves it. Whatever may be broken would probably work on the parts rig. Does the parts rig have the shocks with hoses??? They either work or they don’t. They are rams so they don’t have valves that wear out like real shocks. No need to buy new ones. When you are finally done you’ll probably need globes (because they do slowly wear out)but in the meantime you can beat up on the old ones. So I’d start by getting TechStream working if you haven’t already. It’s a bit of a pain since it needs to run in a windows XP environment. Check the latest suggestions here on mud. The other thing to check is how it gets deleted electronically so you know how to reverse. Just pull a fuse? That’s it?? I don’t know.

The AHC fuse and a Relay are pulled. I have techstream up and running fine on my windows 10 laptop. No XP emulator or anything. I paid a computer tech to go in and cange some minor script or setting to allow techstream to work on the 64 bit windows 10. I use the software almost every week on my other toyota cars.

Going to go under the parts rig to
Make sure the Rams/ shocks do not appear to have any leaks. I am interested in the possibilities of Custom diameter Torsion bars, slightly larger than stock AHC, but smaller than stock Landcruiser...

Reality check time; I don’t even know what AHC LX470 suspension feels like. I have no baseline to start from; never ridden in a LX or LC with working AHC; so just starting with getting the system complete, flushed out, and working again sounds like a good place to start. Then globes, height sensor adjust, and dial in pressures.

I was just following this thread and since getting the parts rig, I am feeling out how make my wife’s requested upgrades to her rig a reality... I was all set to put OEM non AHC torsion bars in there, and bring the front up closer to matching the rear height; add aftermarket UCA’s and new lower ball joints, and call it done, then the parts rig popped up, and with it her original request to reinstate AHC lifted 2” resurfaced...
 
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parts rig appears to be complete and intact... no sign of leaks anywhere on the Rams, or lines, e
parts rig appears to be complete and intact... no sign of leaks anywhere on the Rams, or lines, etc.
👍👍 great news. The hardest part I’m told is getting the top of the rear shocks disconnected without damaging them. I thought I read about someone cutting an access panel from inside the vehicle.
 
👍👍 great news. The hardest part I’m told is getting the top of the rear shocks disconnected without damaging them. I thought I read about someone cutting an access panel from inside the vehicle.”

That is a very good suggestion. I was looking at how close that clearance is under the body, and I can tell how tight it is and how difficult to get to. I think the shocks and lines were likely put in the chassis before the body was mounted to the frame.
 
👍👍 great news. The hardest part I’m told is getting the top of the rear shocks disconnected without damaging them. I thought I read about someone cutting an access panel from inside the vehicle.”

That is a very good suggestion. I was looking at how close that clearance is under the body, and I can tell how tight it is and how difficult to get to. I think the shocks and lines were likely put in the chassis before the body was mounted to the frame.

You can get those out without cutting a hole in the body...but it takes a large offset wrench to do it and is a major pain. I think I managed to get one out with the wrench and the other with a sawzall. Cutting a hole through the floor is going to be lots easier, assuming you don't care about the parts rig!
 
👍👍 great news. The hardest part I’m told is getting the top of the rear shocks disconnected without damaging them. I thought I read about someone cutting an access panel from inside the vehicle.”

That is a very good suggestion. I was looking at how close that clearance is under the body, and I can tell how tight it is and how difficult to get to. I think the shocks and lines were likely put in the chassis before the body was mounted to the frame.
By the way. Since you might be swapping globes, the front two have different part numbers than the rear two even though they look the same. Since you’re disabling the wife’s vehicle, if you need new OEM globes in a hurry this place has them for what works out to $188 each. Not sure of stock levels though. Impex is cheaper but really slow.

 
Awesome write up! Just a heads up, you will likely experience premature CV failure if you don't install a diff drop from increased drive angles and changed geometry.
I had that happen on my 2004 Supercharged Tacoma... Not going to mess with the LX570 suspension, way to expensive to repair. I'm too old to do the rock bobbin anymore anyway.

2004 Toyota Super Charged Extra Cab 4x4.JPG
 
👍👍 great news. The hardest part I’m told is getting the top of the rear shocks disconnected without damaging them. I thought I read about someone cutting an access panel from inside the vehicle.”

That is a very good suggestion. I was looking at how close that clearance is under the body, and I can tell how tight it is and how difficult to get to. I think the shocks and lines were likely put in the chassis before the body was mounted to the frame.
or......a 2" body lift gives you tons of access....I would know!
 
Anyone know why King springs say they only go up to 2006? Is that perhaps an Australian convention by going off of vehicle production date instead of model year or something?

I have a 2007 and just added steel bumpers, so want to ensure the AHC is adjusted / optimized accordingly. Ty!
 
Anyone know why King springs say they only go up to 2006? Is that perhaps an Australian convention by going off of vehicle production date instead of model year or something?

I have a 2007 and just added steel bumpers, so want to ensure the AHC is adjusted / optimized accordingly. Ty!
I think you’re correct about AUS year convention. I have 2007 w/ Kings, as far as I know 06&07 exactly the same.
 

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