1UZ vs 2UZ into FJ45LV

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Tough to argue with an LS. They are just so well built to be dropped into anything. GM did an excellent job making them as universal as the old small block.

There is a lot of coolness keeping it Toyota.

I just feel a car engine looses some of that cool instead of using a Cruiser engine.
 
4.7 2UZ... right?

I have no doubt about the 2UZ in the LV... I am curious about the (cheaper and more readily available) 1UZ in a truck of that weight.

Don't know but I am sure others will. If someone in the know could list out the years and the model numbers that would help.
 
2UZ:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_UZ_engine

Applications:[6]

2003–2004 Lexus GX 470
1998–2005 Lexus LX 470
1998–2005 Toyota Land Cruiser
2003–2004 Toyota 4Runner
2000–2004 Toyota Tundra
2001–2004 Toyota Sequoia

Another 2UZ-FE variation adds VVT-i and electronic throttle control.

Applications:[6]

2005–2009 Lexus GX 470
2006–2007 Lexus LX 470
2005–2009 Toyota 4Runner
2006–2011 Toyota Land Cruiser
2005–2006 Toyota Tundra
2005–2009 Toyota Sequoia
 
2UZ:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_UZ_engine

Applications:[6]

2003–2004 Lexus GX 470
1998–2005 Lexus LX 470
1998–2005 Toyota Land Cruiser
2003–2004 Toyota 4Runner
2000–2004 Toyota Tundra
2001–2004 Toyota Sequoia

Another 2UZ-FE variation adds VVT-i and electronic throttle control.

Applications:[6]

2005–2009 Lexus GX 470
2006–2007 Lexus LX 470
2005–2009 Toyota 4Runner
2006–2011 Toyota Land Cruiser
2005–2006 Toyota Tundra
2005–2009 Toyota Sequoia

So from what you are saying, the first set of vehicles listed above with date ranges from 1998-2005 are 2UZ, which do not have the VVT-i and electronic throttle control, and are therefore easier to swap/install into a project? Vs. the later 2UZ-FE are more computer controlled and more difficult to swap.

Also, have you considered a frame on body swap? A quick search shows lots of wrecked Tundras out there. I looked at wheel dimensions a looooong time ago and many others have researched this before, but I do not remember the results. I do recall most of the modern vehicles being quite a bit longer than the old LV.
 
So from what you are saying, the first set of vehicles listed above with date ranges from 1998-2005 are 2UZ, which do not have the VVT-i and electronic throttle control,


That is what the Wiki implies...

and are therefore easier to swap/install into a project? Vs. the later 2UZ-FE are more computer controlled and more difficult to swap.

This is what I have read but am not able to confirm. I am hoping the Spitronic ECU will solve that problem either way.

Also, have you considered a frame on body swap? A quick search shows lots of wrecked Tundras out there. I looked at wheel dimensions a looooong time ago and many others have researched this before, but I do not remember the results. I do recall most of the modern vehicles being quite a bit longer than the old LV.

The thought has crossed my mind but I want to maintain as much of the CHARACTER of the LV as I can while upgrading the overall driving experience - a balance to be sure.

Mark
 
How much does the Sitronic ECU setup cost? What would it do that you can't do with the factory ECU.

Not sure on cost... I think less than $1000. I THINK it would eliminate the need to sort out the wiring by hand... and help with later stuff like the key fob sensor and the park/drive sensor if you go with a manually tranny.
 
I personally would want an automatic in my LV or Troopy. I'm not wheeling it and have desire to shift gears any longer. My build is for fun and shifting a big old LC does not sound like much fun, at least not on city streets, which is where my Cruiser will probably spend most of its time. A 40 on the trail would be a different story.
 
Except it's not. A auto wheeling rig is way, way better. I wouldn't even consider a manual LV unless it was three on a tree behind a F. Once you modify there's no point. I have three vintage cruisers and they are all auto. God only gave you two feet for a reason.
 
I am looking to build a nice running street/highway/expedition vehicle with enough power to tow a decent sized cargo or camping trailer. I'm geeked to try a 1UZ or 2UZ swap but I am getting some mixed info on what would be the "better" swap.

I am not looking for a fast hot rod build. I want power enough to move the truck down the road comfortably. I want to be able to step on it and get up to speed without serious delay but I'll never race it... As well, I am not going to be doing any real wheeling with the truck so no need for gobs of slow/low end torque for that either... no sand dunes, no mud bogs, no rock crawling. I'm open to the mated auto or a 5 speed manual swap...

I know the 2 was used in the trucks and SUVs and the 1 in cars. Will I be disappointed with a 1UZ in the 45LV?

Any input would be appreciated.

Not sure how current this is, but just saw it and for the record wanted to chip in.

We have done both 1UZ (non-vvti) and 2UZ (non-vvti with DBW) conversions on FJ40s which are well documented on the net as Concordia FJ40s. In the end, the 1UZ ends up being simpler to do as its without an immobilizer and the DBW electronic accelerator. Documentation and parts availability for non vvti 1UZs is also much greater. 1UZ is also a fraction of the 2UZ cost.

The actual driving differences between the 1UZ and 2UZ in our case where they were mated to almost identical drivetrains and bodies were significant yet not overwhelmingly different. The 1UZ torque delivery is early enough for most practical purposes across various applications and the 2UZ will only provide an additional kick on top of it in most cases.

So unless there is a specific reason for doing so and the client has the extra wallet, personally I would recommend the 1UZ over the 2UZ for the large majority of builds....
 
Thanks Baltoro. I am concerned with the LV being bigger/heavier than a straight up FJ40. Plus I will be loading it for expedition travel on occasion so there will be added weight there too.

Can you tell me more about the driving experiences of the 2 on the road, highway and on paved roads in the hills?

I would love to do the 1UZ if it would do the job...

mark
 
Tough to argue with an LS. They are just so well built to be dropped into anything. GM did an excellent job making them as universal as the old small block.

There is a lot of coolness keeping it Toyota.

I just feel a car engine looses some of that cool instead of using a Cruiser engine.


But isn't an LS a car engine too? If the 1UZ would do the job "well" it would be a cheaper swap than a 2UZ and would offer more power than a 2F or even a 1FZ (although the 1FZ might be an easier/cheaper swap and it IS a cruiser engine)

Cool, to me, would be keeping it all Toyota... I believe an LT or LS GM would provide more power but...
 
No. LQ4 and LQ9 were truck engines.

And any of the LS motors had gobs and gobs of torque. Of the LS motors the LS3 is tuned as a high RPM motor and it pulls 335-350 lbs/ft vs 256 for the 1UZ. The LQ4 has 360-380 lbs/ft.

It so much fun. I can't keep my foot out of it. and it makes sexy, sexy noises.

The 1UZ is a fine choice. We're just talking now.
 
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The 1UZ is a fine choice.

Are you convinced it would move a 45LV around with no trouble (significantly better than a really good desmogged 2f)?

Part of this of course is the cost/benefit ratio. I am willing to do go only so far to satisfy the desire for the all Toyota "cool" element...

In descending order on MY all Toyota "coolness" list (subject to slight adjustments):

Toyota 2UZ
Toyota 1UZ - not sure is will work well enough in the 45LV
Toyota 1FZ
Toyota 2FE - not sure it is worth the trouble over the other choices
Toyota 3FE - not sure it is worth the trouble over the other choices
Toyota 2F
Toyota 1F - I would only do this if the truck had one in it already (it has an old Chevy straight 6) or if I was looking to do a fully stock resto (I'm not)

Looking at only the performance and cost elements:

Chevy v8 (LS)
Chevy v8 (LT)
Toyota 2UZ
 
Seems to me that unless you have money to spare or have a good bit of knowledge on how to install these 1UZ or 2UZ, the only sensible way to go is with late model Chevy motor. I would love to say it is all Toyota, but it sounds like it will be an extreme headache in the end for less performance.
 
While I agree that the Chevys offer more power I dont think I need that much to have the truck perform the way I would like... I think the LS is overkill really. The LT would likely do the job nicely.

I am not convinced that the difficulty in the UZ installs outweighs the benefits. I will be doing the work myself. There seem to be resources available for parts and knowledge to get any of these swaps done.

Still collecting info and opinions so keep it coming!
 
I have driven 60/62s with both LT 4 speed combos, LT auto and LS auto combos and I will assure you that they all have PLENTY of power for a truck that size.

I also have a 2u tundra that is great in every way.

For me cost was a push between a Chevy drivetrain and the Toyota parts. I got a running driving tundra for 3k and I already had the trans and t-case from the 80.

You may be able to get Chevy parts cheeper than that but it's not easy if you want full time 4wd with dual pass side outputs on the transfer case.

There may or may not be more labor in using Toyota parts but that just costs me time. Wiring and the trans work will be more challenging but the other systems needed for a swap should all be very similar.
 
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I am hoping for, and I can wait for, a killer deal on the component parts for this swap.

I am not concerned with full time 4wd. In fact I would likely do a conversion to part time 4wd if I end up with that drive train.
 
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