Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Tencha's honor .. she't getting old now but still rocking !
1JZ VVTi 4Runner 4WD Buildup
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- Thread starter
- #22
It's been a while since I've posted, as well as the ongoing project of life can sometimes get in the way of garage projects. I haven't given up yet!
I managed to do a few minor mods to help clean things up.
One of which I'd recommend to others: I moved the 4WD Vacuum canister to inside the engine bay.
It was super easy and only took a minute or two. I didn't even cut vacuum lines.
The total length of the lines are made up of sections of line divided by small connectors.
I just removed a section and used the shortest part to connect directly to the tank.
The original location is in the passenger side front wheel well. Which I think is laughable!
Easy mod to clean things up, take components out of harms way, and make more room in the well.
Original location.
Aside from the previously stated reasons for moving this - my main reasons were to modify the front portion of the body to improve approach angle and cosmetics without further exposing the tank.
I dropped the fuel tank (what an annoying bitch) to replace the pump with a factory JZX100 fuel pump.
The surprisingly smaller yet more powerful Chaser pump fit into the 4Runner pump bracket with little modification.
I had to bend the bracket just a bit, but managed to mount it easily with a number of zip-ties.
Then I spliced some new wiring clips to meet the Chaser pump, installed a new filter and BOOM. Done.
Upon dis-assembly, I zealously removed the 5 "DO NOT REMOVE" bolts from the VVTi cam gear.
This is not a big deal. People on forums rave about this and state that a new gear must be purchased if this happens - Ridiculous. If you can rebuild a brake caliper; you can rebuild a VVTi cam gear. Look at the FSM diagrams and follow steps, make sure pieces are in the correct orientation, and line up the main inner and outer gears to their original position as best you can. If you are still unsure, there are some helpful videos on youtube of a guy rebuilding 2JZ VVTi(identical) gears due to the fairly common problem of oil leaks.
No matter how meticulous I thought I was throughout the whole process I managed to lose a valve bucket/shim!
-Lesson somewhat learned I grabbed a new bucket from Toyota for $25.
-Put it all together.
-Used a feeler gauge to check the gap and got lucky considering all of the originals were still between 0.001" and 0.002" from either side of the allotted window of specification.
However, of course you cannot check the gap on a shim-over-bucket without a shim already in there!
-So I took it apart again.
-Measured thickness and used a shim from an adjacent bucket.
-Put it back together.
-Measured the gap.
-Did some math.
-Grabbed a 0.120" (3.05mm) from Toyota for $16.
-Took it apart.
-Put it back together with the new shim.
-Checked gap. Voila!
-Drank beer.
I managed to do a few minor mods to help clean things up.
One of which I'd recommend to others: I moved the 4WD Vacuum canister to inside the engine bay.
It was super easy and only took a minute or two. I didn't even cut vacuum lines.
The total length of the lines are made up of sections of line divided by small connectors.
I just removed a section and used the shortest part to connect directly to the tank.
The original location is in the passenger side front wheel well. Which I think is laughable!
Easy mod to clean things up, take components out of harms way, and make more room in the well.
Original location.
Aside from the previously stated reasons for moving this - my main reasons were to modify the front portion of the body to improve approach angle and cosmetics without further exposing the tank.
I dropped the fuel tank (what an annoying bitch) to replace the pump with a factory JZX100 fuel pump.
The surprisingly smaller yet more powerful Chaser pump fit into the 4Runner pump bracket with little modification.
I had to bend the bracket just a bit, but managed to mount it easily with a number of zip-ties.
Then I spliced some new wiring clips to meet the Chaser pump, installed a new filter and BOOM. Done.
Upon dis-assembly, I zealously removed the 5 "DO NOT REMOVE" bolts from the VVTi cam gear.
This is not a big deal. People on forums rave about this and state that a new gear must be purchased if this happens - Ridiculous. If you can rebuild a brake caliper; you can rebuild a VVTi cam gear. Look at the FSM diagrams and follow steps, make sure pieces are in the correct orientation, and line up the main inner and outer gears to their original position as best you can. If you are still unsure, there are some helpful videos on youtube of a guy rebuilding 2JZ VVTi(identical) gears due to the fairly common problem of oil leaks.
No matter how meticulous I thought I was throughout the whole process I managed to lose a valve bucket/shim!
-Lesson somewhat learned I grabbed a new bucket from Toyota for $25.
-Put it all together.
-Used a feeler gauge to check the gap and got lucky considering all of the originals were still between 0.001" and 0.002" from either side of the allotted window of specification.
However, of course you cannot check the gap on a shim-over-bucket without a shim already in there!
-So I took it apart again.
-Measured thickness and used a shim from an adjacent bucket.
-Put it back together.
-Measured the gap.
-Did some math.
-Grabbed a 0.120" (3.05mm) from Toyota for $16.
-Took it apart.
-Put it back together with the new shim.
-Checked gap. Voila!
-Drank beer.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #23
The cylinder head is now 100% complete.
*All together now, in slow-motion, let's say the word: "FFIINNAALLLLYY!"*
The Mounting Milestone Begins.
I went to the junkyard and yanked a transmission crossmember - and driveshafts to match it - from a 22R-E M/T 4x4 4Runner.
This one is straight across and therefore, it holds the drivetrain roughly 2"-3" further back.
It will aid in mounting the much longer 1JZ. This is a must.
There isn't even enough room to place the rad in the factory position with this crossmember.
A good friend of mine; the venerable Spencer Hogg, came to do the fab work, and help me mount the drive-train.
Note: The Drift-Motion mounts were ugly to start with. I knew they would require modification to work for this application, but they were shoddy workmanship right from the box. Some of the holes didn't line up to the block and the gussets were crooked. In fact: Drift-Motion had made a number of errors on my order. Missing items, wrong items, etc. Over all I wasn't too pleased with them.
Besides my order, from what I hear, they are okay.
Plus it's hard to beat their JDM parts selection here in North America.
That is in the past.
Here they are. We weren't after pretty, but I think it's a damn good job.
It didn't take long, they fit, were free, and are stronger than factory!
*All together now, in slow-motion, let's say the word: "FFIINNAALLLLYY!"*
The Mounting Milestone Begins.
I went to the junkyard and yanked a transmission crossmember - and driveshafts to match it - from a 22R-E M/T 4x4 4Runner.
This one is straight across and therefore, it holds the drivetrain roughly 2"-3" further back.
It will aid in mounting the much longer 1JZ. This is a must.
There isn't even enough room to place the rad in the factory position with this crossmember.
A good friend of mine; the venerable Spencer Hogg, came to do the fab work, and help me mount the drive-train.
Note: The Drift-Motion mounts were ugly to start with. I knew they would require modification to work for this application, but they were shoddy workmanship right from the box. Some of the holes didn't line up to the block and the gussets were crooked. In fact: Drift-Motion had made a number of errors on my order. Missing items, wrong items, etc. Over all I wasn't too pleased with them.
Besides my order, from what I hear, they are okay.
Plus it's hard to beat their JDM parts selection here in North America.
That is in the past.
Here they are. We weren't after pretty, but I think it's a damn good job.
It didn't take long, they fit, were free, and are stronger than factory!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #24
It sits! 
I like. I like a lot.
This picture also shows the crude cuts made to the body below the headlights.
This will be cleaned up, but it shows why I wanted to relocate the 4WD vacuum tank.
Not much clearance to the front of the vehicle - Just an excuse to have a badass bumper made.
Battery, electronics, overflows, WWF bottle, etc starting to make an appearance.
We cut the inner fender wells to make things easy.
Ergonomics are important to me and I want this truck to be as serviceable as possible.
Whether that be in the shop or the bush.
I will create new rubber skirting to cover this once the swap is done. The other side is the same.
"She's a tight one, mister Grinch." -Cindy Lou Hoo
Sorry for the tuber-photo.
Regardless of its' potatoness - the photo shows why removal of the steering stabilizer shock is necessary. 1"-2" gap between the oil pan and steering - without the shock.
Transmission and transfer-case a bit banged up from high levels of motivation to install in one piece.
Nothing a shot of spray-bomb can't remedy.
Straight across 22R-E crossmember visible.
Frame looks nice
.
Next?
Plumbing.
I like. I like a lot.
This picture also shows the crude cuts made to the body below the headlights.
This will be cleaned up, but it shows why I wanted to relocate the 4WD vacuum tank.
Not much clearance to the front of the vehicle - Just an excuse to have a badass bumper made.
Battery, electronics, overflows, WWF bottle, etc starting to make an appearance.
We cut the inner fender wells to make things easy.
Ergonomics are important to me and I want this truck to be as serviceable as possible.
Whether that be in the shop or the bush.
I will create new rubber skirting to cover this once the swap is done. The other side is the same.
"She's a tight one, mister Grinch." -Cindy Lou Hoo
Sorry for the tuber-photo.
Regardless of its' potatoness - the photo shows why removal of the steering stabilizer shock is necessary. 1"-2" gap between the oil pan and steering - without the shock.
Transmission and transfer-case a bit banged up from high levels of motivation to install in one piece.
Nothing a shot of spray-bomb can't remedy.
Straight across 22R-E crossmember visible.
Frame looks nice
.Next?
Plumbing.
Last edited:
Awesome work!!
This is the coolest build I have ever seen in my entire life,
I have witnessed approximately 300,000 builds.
By far this is the greatest 4Runner potentially conceived.
I spearheaded the design of these trucks for Toyota in the late 80's
We are considering hiring "badger" to be a lead technical consultant for Toyota Japan.
-t3q.
I have witnessed approximately 300,000 builds.
By far this is the greatest 4Runner potentially conceived.
I spearheaded the design of these trucks for Toyota in the late 80's
We are considering hiring "badger" to be a lead technical consultant for Toyota Japan.
-t3q.
- Thread starter
- #28
Love my inline sixs, great build.,.
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks. Me too!
My options:
a) Inline 6 - Diesel or gas.
b) 2 rotor.
c) 3 rotor.
Turbo is mandatory.
Those are my rules.
- Thread starter
- #31
Update!
I have completed a few more steps to getting this thing on the road.
I had some photos on my phone that I thought I'd share. I'll take more tomorrow.
This old picture shows the clutch slave cylinder; which sits on the drivers side (LHD) of the R154 bell housing, as compared to the original passenger side mount with the R150. I had planned to purchase a 3-4' flexible braided line to bridge the gap back to the drivers side. However, it proved easier, and certainly cheaper to unbolt the original slave hard line brackets, and bend it to travel down directly from the master to the drivers side slave cylinder. All original hard line. No flex lines or hoses.
After bleeding all the air, the clutch pedal had good feel and full fork movement could be seen through the bell inspection holes.
Gotta love it when your new slave cylinder comes the exact same colour as the rest of your crap!
4Runner radiator outlet locations are not well suited to JZ's.
The bottom hose crosses sides to meet the bottom tank of the rad - I'll use a long hose for that one.
Lower hose routing is inconvenient and ugly, but I don't have a lot of options there.
Then the top outlets are so close to each other, yet just enough out of line that you would need to loop the hose.
I opted to cutting both the rad and the water neck in an effort to get a straighter path.
The water neck is cast aluminum and the rad tanks are hard (and s***) plastic.
Using a stone age hand saw, I cut as much as I could to provide the most leeway while leaving just enough meat on each to fully seat a good fat clamp. If you stuff a rag down the hole - past the point of where you will be cutting - and apply a light amount of oil to the saw and material, you should be able to contain all of the rogue shavings and prevent them from sneaking down the tubes.
A look at the circumcised upper rad outlet. Supposed to be cleaner I guess...
Factory V6 throttle cable fitted.
Brake booster hose fitted (Still require a check valve for positive manifold pressure).
Fuel system plumbing is 100%. Just extended the hoses to the opposite side of the bay.
Coils are installed.
The two red 5/8" heater hoses are fairly straight forward. Measure the length. Cut. Clamp.
Upper rad hose fits nicely (left edge of photo).
Cooling system plumbing is 75% complete.
I'm using mechanics wire to hang the rad currently. Brackets will come later.
I will also wire up the factory A/C condenser's pusher e-fan from my parts truck. I want to find a second one at a junkyard and have tandem pusher fan action. Not pretty. Should work.
Looks like I've got some electrical ahead of me.
I have completed a few more steps to getting this thing on the road.
I had some photos on my phone that I thought I'd share. I'll take more tomorrow.
This old picture shows the clutch slave cylinder; which sits on the drivers side (LHD) of the R154 bell housing, as compared to the original passenger side mount with the R150. I had planned to purchase a 3-4' flexible braided line to bridge the gap back to the drivers side. However, it proved easier, and certainly cheaper to unbolt the original slave hard line brackets, and bend it to travel down directly from the master to the drivers side slave cylinder. All original hard line. No flex lines or hoses.
After bleeding all the air, the clutch pedal had good feel and full fork movement could be seen through the bell inspection holes.
Gotta love it when your new slave cylinder comes the exact same colour as the rest of your crap!
4Runner radiator outlet locations are not well suited to JZ's.
The bottom hose crosses sides to meet the bottom tank of the rad - I'll use a long hose for that one.
Lower hose routing is inconvenient and ugly, but I don't have a lot of options there.
Then the top outlets are so close to each other, yet just enough out of line that you would need to loop the hose.
I opted to cutting both the rad and the water neck in an effort to get a straighter path.
The water neck is cast aluminum and the rad tanks are hard (and s***) plastic.
Using a stone age hand saw, I cut as much as I could to provide the most leeway while leaving just enough meat on each to fully seat a good fat clamp. If you stuff a rag down the hole - past the point of where you will be cutting - and apply a light amount of oil to the saw and material, you should be able to contain all of the rogue shavings and prevent them from sneaking down the tubes.
A look at the circumcised upper rad outlet. Supposed to be cleaner I guess...
Factory V6 throttle cable fitted.
Brake booster hose fitted (Still require a check valve for positive manifold pressure).
Fuel system plumbing is 100%. Just extended the hoses to the opposite side of the bay.
Coils are installed.
The two red 5/8" heater hoses are fairly straight forward. Measure the length. Cut. Clamp.
Upper rad hose fits nicely (left edge of photo).
Cooling system plumbing is 75% complete.
I'm using mechanics wire to hang the rad currently. Brackets will come later.
I will also wire up the factory A/C condenser's pusher e-fan from my parts truck. I want to find a second one at a junkyard and have tandem pusher fan action. Not pretty. Should work.
Looks like I've got some electrical ahead of me.
- Thread starter
- #32
Here is a pic of the JZX alternator.
See the spec sticker? -Now the silver tab at the top of it?
Written sideways is a legend that explains the orientation of the wires.
The 3Pin clip Left to right: S - IG - L
'S' : Allows the regulator to Sense the battery's voltage.
'IG' : Provides +12v to the regulator via the Ignition switch.
'L' : Activates the Charge Warning Lamp on your dashboard.
'B' : (Not listed) Is the typical symbol for Battery.
It's the main fat cable bolted to the SW corner of the alternator.
This gets an obvious +12v from the battery.
Realistically, all of the wires are getting +12v. Just important to know where to tap it from.
As the alternator itself is grounded to the block through its own housing.
This next picture shows off the rad placement and upper hose route.
As well as the alternator wiring running from right to left.
This swap basically consists of crossing hoses and wires to the opposite sides of original.
Which is annoying to say the least...
Alternator, starter, rad outlets, fuel lines, power steering pump, exhaust, clutch slave cylinder, A/C compressor, and even the air-box are all on opposite sides with these two engines.
Luck o' the Irish coming in clutch again!
I thought I would've needed to have a power steering hose built for the high-pressure side.
Turns out I was able to ape-hand the factory JZX high-pressure line into working!
That's two freebie victories via ape-handling!
The other end of the high-pressure line ended up here.
Eliminating the need for the old section currently attached in the pic.
(The banjo fitting in the apex of the body curve)
I laughed when it went together...
Low-pressure return line was extended back to the reservoir.
Pump feed was an easy cut with more of the red 5/8" hose.
Ready to be bled.
POWER STEERING POWER!
See the spec sticker? -Now the silver tab at the top of it?
Written sideways is a legend that explains the orientation of the wires.
The 3Pin clip Left to right: S - IG - L
'S' : Allows the regulator to Sense the battery's voltage.
'IG' : Provides +12v to the regulator via the Ignition switch.
'L' : Activates the Charge Warning Lamp on your dashboard.
'B' : (Not listed) Is the typical symbol for Battery.
It's the main fat cable bolted to the SW corner of the alternator.
This gets an obvious +12v from the battery.
Realistically, all of the wires are getting +12v. Just important to know where to tap it from.
As the alternator itself is grounded to the block through its own housing.
This next picture shows off the rad placement and upper hose route.
As well as the alternator wiring running from right to left.
This swap basically consists of crossing hoses and wires to the opposite sides of original.
Which is annoying to say the least...
Alternator, starter, rad outlets, fuel lines, power steering pump, exhaust, clutch slave cylinder, A/C compressor, and even the air-box are all on opposite sides with these two engines.
Luck o' the Irish coming in clutch again!
I thought I would've needed to have a power steering hose built for the high-pressure side.
Turns out I was able to ape-hand the factory JZX high-pressure line into working!
That's two freebie victories via ape-handling!
The other end of the high-pressure line ended up here.
Eliminating the need for the old section currently attached in the pic.
(The banjo fitting in the apex of the body curve)
I laughed when it went together...
Low-pressure return line was extended back to the reservoir.
Pump feed was an easy cut with more of the red 5/8" hose.
Ready to be bled.
POWER STEERING POWER!
- Thread starter
- #33
Here is the JZX line just in case anyone wanted to see its route compared to stock.
The next 3 pictures illustrate the need for the 22R-E 4x4 4Runner's Trans-mount,
which moved the drive-train roughly 2.5 inches rearward.
Without it, conventional rad placement would be near impossible and likely only a rear-mount radiator would fly.
In this setup, the rad can only be installed from the bottom. The gap between the front frame rail and the crank pulley wont allow a factory rad to come from the top. My fingers barely fit in the picture.
Also note the rad outlet - which was cut shorter in the last post - barely slipped past the alternator pulley by a short and curly. Before I had trimmed the outlet, I had to remove the alternator while mocking the rad position.
This photo sort of distorts the view. Regardless... You get the idea.
In my opinion, it's not close enough to be a concern for regular usage, but the slightest front end impact would make a real mess.
I'll modify the factory rad mounts to work here. The rad isn't too far from its factory location, Just tipped a little forward.
Let me know your thoughts!
Cheers fellas.
The next 3 pictures illustrate the need for the 22R-E 4x4 4Runner's Trans-mount,
which moved the drive-train roughly 2.5 inches rearward.
Without it, conventional rad placement would be near impossible and likely only a rear-mount radiator would fly.
In this setup, the rad can only be installed from the bottom. The gap between the front frame rail and the crank pulley wont allow a factory rad to come from the top. My fingers barely fit in the picture.
Also note the rad outlet - which was cut shorter in the last post - barely slipped past the alternator pulley by a short and curly. Before I had trimmed the outlet, I had to remove the alternator while mocking the rad position.
This photo sort of distorts the view. Regardless... You get the idea.
In my opinion, it's not close enough to be a concern for regular usage, but the slightest front end impact would make a real mess.
I'll modify the factory rad mounts to work here. The rad isn't too far from its factory location, Just tipped a little forward.
Let me know your thoughts!
Cheers fellas.
Curious to see how you install your cooling fans.
Thanks for posting and updating, your build rocks...
- Thread starter
- #35
The fan setup is gonna be wonky at the very least. I've never been too comfortable with electric pusher fans, but I think it's my only option.
Thanks buddy. It's motivating to get positive feedback!
Thanks buddy. It's motivating to get positive feedback!
- Thread starter
- #36
I can't quite figure out how to attach a video to this thread. Recorded on an iPhone.
.mov and .gif are the wrong extensions.
Anyone have the correct one(s)?
.mov and .gif are the wrong extensions.
Anyone have the correct one(s)?
Your doing a marvelous job. I love to see a good turbo build. I am fond of turbos with the elevations I deal with. Can't wait to see progress.
We have an old 60 series that needs a new heart. I thought maybe an Ecoboost swap, but this has me reconsidering. A little more work, but keeps everything Toyota.
Again good work.
We have an old 60 series that needs a new heart. I thought maybe an Ecoboost swap, but this has me reconsidering. A little more work, but keeps everything Toyota.
Again good work.
- Thread starter
- #38
Thanks very much. You guys sure know how to keep up crew morale.
Is your 60 gas or diesel?
I had a 12HT 60. Wouldn't have it any other way.
Although I did have aspirations about a JZ 70 series not long ago haha.
I dream about a 1.5JZ VVTi 3.4L stroker in either a J70 cruiser or N106 runner.
Ohhh well... That's in a galaxy far, far away.
In this galaxy, things are feeling a lot more tangible!
I fired the truck up for the first time today! Which is precisely why I would like to upload a video of it to this thread. It runs pretty well considering there is no downpipe or intercooler hooked up yet.
-There's an oil leak from the front drive-shaft output flange on the transfer-case,
but otherwise no engine or transmission fluid leaks.
-One bad JZX100 fuel pump, but no wiring hiccups.
Is your 60 gas or diesel?
I had a 12HT 60. Wouldn't have it any other way.
Although I did have aspirations about a JZ 70 series not long ago haha.
I dream about a 1.5JZ VVTi 3.4L stroker in either a J70 cruiser or N106 runner.
Ohhh well... That's in a galaxy far, far away.
In this galaxy, things are feeling a lot more tangible!
I fired the truck up for the first time today! Which is precisely why I would like to upload a video of it to this thread. It runs pretty well considering there is no downpipe or intercooler hooked up yet.
-There's an oil leak from the front drive-shaft output flange on the transfer-case,
but otherwise no engine or transmission fluid leaks.
-One bad JZX100 fuel pump, but no wiring hiccups.
I would like to hear it run. I think most people upload the video to youtube and then in-bed the link into the thread.
The 60 series belongs to my father and it has the 2F in it. Good, but in Wyoming and 7000 ft in elevation, it is painfully slow.
The 60 series belongs to my father and it has the 2F in it. Good, but in Wyoming and 7000 ft in elevation, it is painfully slow.
The way I know how to do it is upload to google drive then hit docs then it should upload.
