Builds 1HZ-T HZJ78 All-Climate Expo Build

[DamoPeru]

Things are starting to progress again, nothing worth a ton of photos but the block has been resleeved, I took the crankshaft, rods and pistons to get balanced, and I had the pump tuned to stock 1HZ-T specs.

I'm glad I decided to go 'over the top' and do the dynamic balancing, the crankshaft was only out by 6g, the pulley by 6g, but the flywheel was out by over 30g and the clutch housing was out by another 25g. So I'm pretty sure she'll be much better for it.

What I would've done was balance the individual counterweights due to the new pistons, but that machine doesn't exist in this country. Although given the 1HD-T shares the same crankshaft, I doubt it would have made much more of a difference than the normal balancing I did.

Hopefully I get to add some pics of putting it together this week.

 

[DamoPeru]

I mocked up the new 1HZ-T turbo today. as i figured, i need to drill into the block to use the 1HZ-T/1HD-T oil intake pipe (15407-17011), although i discovered that this doesn't fit due to a difference in the newer post 1998 blocks, so it turns out i should have ordered the 1HD-FTE oil intake pipe (15407-17020), so i'm trying to get that in a hurry, otherwise i'll have to modify the one i have. Edit: sourced, thanks Ward!

Here's some pics of the piece on the block that varies.

if anyone has a post 1998 1HD-FT or 1HD-FTE (should have the same oil internals as my 2002 1HZ block) i'd be appreciative if you confirm that the taps for the oil intake/return are in the same place as shown in the pic.

 

[DamoPeru]

just a couple of photos of the lovely new bits

 

[DamoPeru]

Today the block drilling for the turbo oil intake today was finished. to cut a long story short there was a bit of anxiety, and the machinist had to drill for 150.4 mm to reach the main oil hole by the oil filter, which also passed right between two cylinders. I'm really glad i had a machinist do it!

many thanks to Ward from CanAm for getting me the newer model turbo oil pipe in the mail quickly (from oz), hopefully it arrives as quickly as it was sent.

 

[wardharris]

Damien
We ordered a suspension on the same day using the same carrier.

Arrived USA in one week. Fingers crossed for ya, mate

 

[DamoPeru]

Damien,

Do you have any more pictures of the solid window? I'm thinking of doing this to the back side windows on my troopy and I'd like to see how they did it.

Thanks!

sorry it took so long to get the photos. they didn't turn out too good, a bit too contrasty between the black and white, but you get a rough idea nonetheless

when i get her out of the workshop into daylight i might get some better pictures

 

[ca18sean]

sorry it took so long to get the photos. they didn't turn out too good, a bit too contrasty between the black and white, but you get a rough idea nonetheless

when i get her out of the workshop into daylight i might get some better pictures

Thanks man! I see how you did it

 

[DamoPeru]

here's some more i took this morning of how the outside was finished, i like how it came up, looks factory.

the insides will be completely covered by storage compartments that will bolt in to those supports i welded in place... in the meantime i have to paint the insides white as its really dark in there now when i'm working on her.

 

[DamoPeru]

here's a photo of the oil intake after drilling and tapping. I had the long 150mm hole past the thread drilled to the same ID of the OEM oil intake pipe so there wouldn't be any issues with oil pressure.

 

[DamoPeru]

I wanted the head, block and sump painted something other than black so I could see any future oil leaks, there was some confusion at the workshop and they painted my already grey block black, and forgot to sand blast, prepare and repaint it properly as i asked before the machining happened, so I just got them to put a few rattles cans over them before assembly... they did a sh1t job on the prep, but at least the new head is painted and the rest isn't black... this is one of the negatives of getting work done in a Toyota dealership, I hoping that mechanically they are flawless (which is why i'm there on my third engine rebuild), but they are not setup for customizing, nor am i allowed do any of the work myself.

the flashy silver color was the only colour i could find in a suitable paint in a can that wasn't white, red or black, hopefully it should look less blingy once its a little dirty... i much prefer my previous powder coated grey... beggars can't be choosers!

 

[DamoPeru]

just a couple of photos of the lovely new bits

I suspect i have another problem that will cause me another delay... I now realize that the 1HZ-T turbo outlet elbow I have for the coaster chassis (17291-17020) shown above might push the exhaust too close to the wheel arch, can't be sure until we drop in the motor. It was a punt buying it, I now see it's only used in 1HD-T/1HZ-T coasters, , but if I can't use it its going to be a right PITA to make up something here in Peru to fit the rectangular outlet.

I don't have another landcruiser turbo to compare, but I see the 1HZ-T turbo elbow gasket (17279-17010) is shared only with the early 1HD-T 80's, but that's another chassis as well, so I'm a bit hesitant to just order the elbow from those models.

so seeing as though I have to go to a 3" dump pipe anyway, maybe someone does a custom elbow that points straight down to a 3" pipe?... anyone have any leads on who makes something like that? or anyone have a standard 80 1HD-T elbow flange lying around that they want to sell me?

 

[DamoPeru]

I made some measurements and I think the 1HZ-T elbow might be usable, but still too close to call. Anyway, I just found the easy solution on ebay, and the seller has kindly agreed to express ship internationally, a prefabbed 3" stainless elbow/dump pipe for the rare HDJ78... I didn't think one for that model would exist. should be a perfect fit for my engine bay and wheel arch, hopefully the quality is OK.

i further reviewed the elbow gasket codes, and while the HDJ78 doesn't share the same gasket code as the 1HZ-T, it does share the same gasket as many other HDJ80s of the same vintage as those HDJ80s that share the same code as the 1HZ-T, so those differences must be just thickness or material, they should all have the same shape... I'm sure anyone with CT26 experience (unlike myself) would already know such things. it's only money i guess.

 

[DamoPeru]

received the oil for my first three changes today, was the only diesel break-in oil I could get to me here without a major fuss. I figure i'll need all the help i can get to seat the rings within the super hard sleeves I used. Planning on doing the first change after an hour of running on the dyno to get rid of what is most of the metal that will come away, another change after about another 1000km and last change after another 1500km. After that i'll switch over to the recommended standard toyota diesel oil, install the by-pass filter and start my lubricheck experiment.

 

[renago]

Nice build Damien
Ref exsaust elbow , I must say that you were lucky to find a bolt on part.
Generally we always have to cut /weld and adjust the elbow.
After you receive it and use it ,I will be. Dry interested in the feed back.
Mine is worn out , with litt holes in it , that I just discover .
Tapping the holes , temp of Egt dropped100 C .
I don't know why ,but less noise but mush less C .
It looks that all is coming together.
Good luck for the next steps .

Bye Renago

 

[DamoPeru]

Mine is worn out , with litt holes in it , that I just discover .
Tapping the holes , temp of Egt dropped100 C .
I don't know why ,but less noise but mush less C

Hi renago, the quicker and easier the exhaust escapes, the lower the 'backup' in the EG system and thus lower EGTs according to theory. This is why I put the exhaust wrap on, by insulating the pipe the gas escapes quicker according to engineering theory. Likewise, your little leaks probably cause turbulence that would slow the rate of EG escape, which in theory should 'backup' the heat.

 

[DamoPeru]

as i figured, i need to drill into the block to use the 1HZ-T/1HD-T oil intake pipe (15407-17011), although i discovered that this doesn't fit due to a difference in the newer post 1998 blocks, so it turns out i should have ordered the 1HD-FTE oil intake pipe (15407-17020), so i'm trying to get that in a hurry, otherwise i'll have to modify the one i have. Edit: sourced, thanks Ward!

it arrived this evening, looks like it will fit around the extra boss, will find out later on. it also has reinforcing to fix the problem of the tube cracking at the flange.

 

[DamoPeru]

I was a bit slack updating the build this month, lots going on, a bit of heartache as well... anyway here's how the two oil intakes compared, newer on the right

so it cleared the boss fine, but required a little bit of massaging to get the connector spot on.

as a bonus, the oil outlet on the new pipe actually points better than the other one as well for my application

when i get some time i'll bring this up to date. that'll probably be after i get it running this weekend

 

[DamoPeru]

just one more other thing i was meaning to do for a while, here's some pics of the 1HZ-T turbo wheels

 

[DamoPeru]

i'd been waiting for this moment for over 18 months! Now just an exhaust section and an intake pipe to go tomorrow and i can take her to the dyno for a day to seat the rings.

 

[DamoPeru]

so far it has about 5 minutes run time amongst two starts so far. I'd hoped to do this a couple of weeks go, but last weekend was the start of Peru's biggest rally so the dyno was booked out. On monday the dyno's all mine and she goes in on a towtruck to seat the rings.

I haven't found any other references apart from those I listed in a specific post (best way to seat rings on rebuilt 1HZ-T?), so I've come up with the following dyno break-in sequence for the 1HZ-T... I have to detail it and translate into spanish for the dyno operator, so I figure i may as well post it up here.

if anyone has any better suggestions I'm all ears, but please read the above thread before you say I should just drive it around easy or drive it like i stole it. also bear in mind i have super strong ductile cast iron cylinder sleeves, with a hardness factor many more times that of the standard block or normal replacement sleeves.

the sequence will be a conservative mix of the 'motoman' method (points 3-7) and the 'graham bell 4-stroke' method (points 2, 9-11)

I'm taking into account:
4,600 +100 max rpm rating of the 1HZ
4,400 +100 max rpm rating of the 1HD-T

but given i really struggled previously to get it over 3,500 rpm on the dyno, my calculations for the 1HZ-T break-in using those methods will be based on a 4,000 max rpm and the 290Nm max torque rating that I got from my last dyno run before fuel pump tuning and boost increases in my 1HZ with 1HZ-T internals and AXT turbo.

disclaimer: I have yet to do this ever, everything is based on what I've read not experience, nor have I seen this described for a 1H#, copy me at you're own risk!

1. warm up @1800 rpm idle for 2 min

2. set dyno to run in 4th gear @ 1,750rpm with ~75 Nm torque for 10 min, shut down to cool briefly

3. three normal dyno runs in 4th gear @ 1/2 throttle from 1,600 to 2,400 rpm, after each run gear down to stop (no dyno brake). then shut down to cool for 10 - 15 min

4. three normal dyno runs in 4th gear @ 3/4 throttle from 1,600 to 3,200 rpm, after each run gear down to stop (no dyno brake). then shut down to cool for about 10 - 15 min

5. one normal dyno run in 4th gear @ full throttle from 1,200 to 3,600 rpm, after run gear down to stop (no dyno brake).

6. one normal dyno run in 4th gear @ full throttle from 1,200 to 3,800 rpm, after run gear down to stop (no dyno brake).

7. one normal dyno run in 4th gear @ full throttle from 1,200 to 4,000 rpm, after run gear down to stop (no dyno brake). then shut down to cool

8. change oil (second fill with John Deere Break-In Plus)

9. set dyno to run in 4th gear @ 2250 rpm @ ~130 Nm torque: accelerate to target gear/rpm, hold for 1 min, then decelerate gearing down, repeat cycle during 30 min, shut down to cool when necessary

10. set dyno to run in 4th gear @ 2500 rpm @ ~155 Nm torque: accelerate to target gear/rpm, hold for 1 min, then decelerate gearing down, repeat cycle during 30 min, shut down to cool when necessary

11. set dyno to run in 4th gear @ 2750 rpm @ ~190 Nm torque: accelerate to target gear/rpm, hold for 1 min, then decelerate gearing down, repeat cycle during 30 min, shut down to cool when necessary

12. hit the street, try to avoid traffic and shut down engine at traffic lights instead of idling.

13. change oil @ 500km after dyno runs (third fill with John Deere Break-In Plus)

14. change oil after another 1000 km (go to Toyota oil, install by-pass filter and oil sampler and start oil testing and Lubricheck calibration)