Here’s some photos of the final (or at least current) engine bay electrical box, necessarily changed as I increased the number of things to relay/fuse and upgraded the 120amp isolator to a waterproof 500amp Blue Sea with manual cutout, so for space management the relays came out of the protected environment and the resized box is now just to protect the extra fuses. Goes without saying, but this is all for the circuits that run directly from the start battery, which are limited to just winch controls, all lighting used while driving, the exhaust brake and the air horn
Had to change over to the blue sea isolator as I decided (against my previous wisdom) to get a 12,000 lb winch and got a 270 amp alternator to suit and to increase charging capacity, as the standard 80 amp had been struggling with the 340 Ahr total of both batteries.
But I love it, works really well as an isolator, automatically separates the batteries for a few minutes when the starter is activated to protect from anything weird that might happen at startup, sensible dash control switch that blinks when somethings wrong, but I love the manual override switch on the unit that deactivates everything for when I go into a workshop for peace of mind.
Still need to get the relay wiring into tubes, but they’re up as high as possible, and in that position any water should drain out and not cause any problems.
Here’s the finished roof console, the black thing is the handsfree speaker/mic nicely just above my head
though I didn’t have the tablet in when I took the photos, it's angled to me operated by my better half as we drive. as i mentioned its connected to the radio permanently at the rear AUX connector.
the OEM dim LED lit light is mostly used for seeing the switches in the dark or for a little but not too much light when on the road, the other LEDS on each end are super bright, good for camping or eating, but too much light when pulled up at a traffic light in a dodgy neighbourhood.
I had added twin electric horns behind the grille, but it didn’t do justice to her presence on the road… those who have experienced driving in crazy Latin American or other developing cities can appreciate the necessity to sound similar to your relative size. With that said the original landcruiser horn is completely inadequate. So on with the 3-way air horns, nothing fancy just a standard Bosch kit that I hope will be reliable.
Anyway, after thinking of bolting the horns to the underside of the bonnet due to my FMIC aspirations, one bloke on another forum gave me the idea to use this space, which I love as space is at a premium in the 70’s. Done a number of trips in Peru with it like this, all good so far, used high density foam of a high quality. I imagine it’s not as loud as it could be on the grille, but it’s still much louder than what was on the grille previously and more than enough for me.
It just a pressure fit, I can't imagine they'll ever move much as they only just fit, so much so I had to enlist the help of my better half's petite little hands to install it properly.
As I’d mentioned I blew the dodgy R151F hours after tuning the pump for the rebuilt turbo. I did a transplant with an ex-FZJ105 H151F box, matched it to the 1HZ with an OEM 78 series 1HD bellhousing and na Xtreme Outback extra heavy duty clutch kit for a 75 series 1FZ. Game of musical toyota parts but resulted in no mechanical modifications. I knew I was up for replacing the 3rd gear spline, and decided to open her up and renovate all snycros and bearings, and anything else that wasn't going to last a very long time.
Here’s were my bad luck started to turn sour. After waiting frustratingly for 9 months for parts and the rebuild, I finally got the workshop in charge to fit it, but only managed to drive the car out of jail with her tail between her legs and a mangled hole in the floor. To cut a long story short, not only was it not rebuilt properly apparent from all the clanging and banging over 50 km/h, but the next day when I dropped it somewhere else to check out the problem, this is what a number of the splines looked like. WTF!!!! (if your hard of sight, that's some sort of bodgy solder repair job, not exactly the high quality replace anything that moves at any cost type job I had specified!)
After waiting for splines the second workshop could finally fit the properly rebuild box and we sorted the sticks out. The gearsticks came up in a different place, but instead of modifying the sticks I just decided to cut new holes and sealed the others. Although it might not have been so simple if i had a bench seat.
The rear driveshaft only just fit on the new transfer, only an inch to spare before being too long, the front shaft also fit very snug and the angle did change, but within the limits and it works fine it seems.
The slightly shorter 5th gear of the H151F was not an issue for me because I ain’t a speedhead, but the longer 1st and 2nd were much appreciated, as it better suits the repowered 1HZ-T where 1st gear was basically redundant (onroad). With the weight I carry I tend to use low range in almost all offroad situations so I doubt I’ll ever be left wanting the extra low down of the original R box or say a H150F, the latter simply didn’t exist here anyway.
The cabin heater hose mysteriously blew off on the H151F test drive about 100km from home. No. 6 piston gave way first. When she went kaboom I thought it was the new gearbox, and when I got her to the side of the highway the OEM temp gauge was still rising visibly towards the red.
Head was tested and I was told it was undamaged. Took advantage of my misfortune to rebuild as a 1HZ-T: 1HZ-T pistons, 1HD-T conrods, No.1 1HZ-T head gasket (which is actually just a No. 5 1HZ head gasket).
They make these 1HZ-T pistons in pre and post 1998, these are the post 1998.
While the she was in jail (6 months) getting the motor rebuilt, I had the side windows modified for security. that is the original frame with galvinized sheet metal welded in, the interior side now has bolts for fitting interior furniture. would have done that to both but we plan to sleep inside when necessary and wanted to retain some ventilation, so the remaining received the bars, whose brackets are welded to the window frame. I removed the windows for both of these mods. the rubbers were dry and had shrunk but I was successful in bringing them back to life with a rubber treatment product that also brought them back to their original size.
Pipework: I didn’t want to modify the plenum, as since I’ll be touring internationally, the plan is to carry the OEM crossover intake in order to block off the intercooler at any time should anything go wrong like an impact, hence the big angle over the motor.
I did have to modify the AC compressor bracket to lower it, there was plenty of room. I also modified the mounting arms on the hydraulic fluid reservoir to move it further back.
then to the dyno. the first "before" data was with standard 8 psi setting for AXT turbo and the pump untuned. then "after" tuned the pump (90cc without pressure @1000rpm / 105cc @1000rpm with pressure) and increased the turbo pressure to 12 psi. tested with 285/75/16s. the two graphs of the same thing are to cover the different power/torque parameter preferences. a bit over a 20% increase over what was no doubt already a major increase over a factory 1HZ. very fun to drive