1HDT conversion starting issue (2 Viewers)

[FJ1KD]

HI All ,
Ive got me an 84 chev g20 van into which Ive just installed 92 or so 80 series running gear in it, including axles, 1HDT and hydro A442F.

I got then thing running on the weekend and for whatever reason it wont fire at all when cold, a quick shot of ether and it lights straight up and stays running. Im running a pod filter right in the turbo and glow plugs are working. Ive done plenty of diesel conversions but this is new to me. I think the likely culprits are :

- Vacuum system plumbing AFU, engine was from a manual truck, boost compensator is plugged in but theres another canister lower on the left side where the TV input would have been, ive tried connecting this to vacuum pump, no change

- Fuel pump loosing prime, Ive rechecked all the system connections and filter is new, drain not leaking, Im not running a lift pump but maybe I need to ?


Any input ,much appreciated thanks

 

[mudgudgeon]

Should not need a lift pump.

1HD-T will typically fire on the first compression stroke. Unless it's very cold

Do you have a manual priming pump/filter assembly?
If it's losing prime, high chance you have a leaking fuel hose connection and you're getting a bit of air into the fuel system.

Vacuum system plumbing AFU, engine was from a manual truck, boost compensator is plugged in but theres another canister lower on the left side where the TV input would have been, ive tried connecting this to vacuum pump, no change

There's not many vacuum hoses at all on the 1hd-t depending on what model it came from.
Mine was manual, 91. It had a boost hose to the boost sensor switch, a boost hose to wastegate, and one to the boost compensator on top of the injector pump.

The only vacuum mine used was for the brake booster, and that came from the vacuum pump, through vacuum accumulator tank, to booster

 

[FJ1KD]

Great thanks, I have the Chevy hydroboost unit for brakes so don't need the vacuum pump.

Focusing on fuel line leaks, I clamped the tank outlet line and pulled the pump input off and put a few psi of air into the line,.couldn't see or hear any leaks, then unclamped the line and pulled the tank cap off and blew air back through just in case there was an obstruction in the pickup.
Then I pulled the pump banjo fitting off and found a nasty looking copper washer in there so changed that.
Slapped it back together and it fired pretty quickly, definitely better and went straight away on the next start.
Ill try it in morning when it's cold but I'm calling it fixed for now

Thanks for the advice

 

[mudgudgeon]

Theres lots of info and tech for the 1HDT in the diesel tech section of the forum if you haven't found it already.

Clear hose temporarily connected to the pump can show you if your getting air into the system. You'll see bubbles while it's running. And it should stay primed if left overnight

 

[bhsdriller]

idk but that thing's sweet

 

[tmxmotorsports]

idk but that thing's sweet

I agree that's something I've never seen or heard of.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

And what's up with the square body in the background.

 

[FJ1KD]

thats my squarebody, its got hydroshox struts and a 5.9 cummins , 24 valve, good engine but a bastard to fit. I did measure it for the van.

that clear hose trick is a good one, I did some searching but didnt have much luck outside of what Id already tried, Im wondering if Ive cracked ine of the solid lines during the engine swap

 

[FJ1KD]

Thanks for the tips mudgudgeon, I had a leak and a half, couldn't get an indication putting air back into the line but the clear hose told a story, before and after :

 

[FJ1KD]

Hi All,
Im back onto this issue, I thought I had it sorted but it very much isnt. SO heres what Ive done so far :

- Put a 92 1HDT into a 84 chevy van with new 12V ZPN-11533 starter
- fitted pod filter straight onto turbo
- fitted a check valve in fuel in line
- fitted a carter 4psi lift pump at tank outlet ( good clear flow )
- removed and checked fuel return ( not steady flow out of pump return with lift pump running )
- tried starting with shorter starter leads etc ( in case of voltage drop etc ) , no change
- Put 24v onto the 12v starter in case starter was mis marked or just wrong
- Had pump and injectors rebuilt by trundles here in NZ

Its still struggling to start cold, lights up instantly with a shot of ether ( see vid attached ) , it runs / idles and drives no problem once its going and lights up fine when engine is warm.

Im open to suggestion here , Ive run through all the checks I can find in the search. Theres also a high chance the issue is something Ive induced with the engine swap.

I think the fuel supply side is ok, Im more focused on starter itself , below is a youtube clip of the start, does it sounds laboured or slow turning over to anyone ?

Thanks

 

[FJ1KD]

OMFG,
so I wrote the post above, had a shower and a think, went outside and jumped 12v direct from the battery onto the fuel cut solenoid and it fired like it never has.

The wiring harness is new but theres obviously a drop or something in it and the solenoid must have been chattering when the starter was turning. Seems obvious now

 

[mudgudgeon]

Hope that solves your problem.

Starter sounds fine to me.

I would expect a 1HD-T to fire on the first compression stroke, unless it's well below freezing.