1HDT Big End Bearings (1 Viewer)

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Couple pics of Toms bearings.
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VTCruiser said:
i have read up a little on the pasti-gauge process, but is it something that can easily done in a parking lot? or am i better off getting my bearing numbers and ordering OEM?

pics? I like pics: plastigauge - how it works
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rebu...002614692QQcategoryZ33615QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/80bigend.htm
Hi, I posted this link on the 1HZ before, some of the guys may not have seen it previously
This DVD on rebuilding the Chev 350 [ford small block available also] is very good and also explains in detail and shows how to use the plastic gauge method. I bought this one for my son who was good at blowing up motors now he fixes his own and his mates and NOW believes in the use of plasti gauge. Eric Zimmerman ,the bloke who does the DVD really knows his small block Chev, well worth the money. :beer:
 
1997 build HDJ80 with 1HD-FT engine with 50000m on the clock.The surface of No. 6 bearing was covered in small craters as though the bearing material had comme away from the steel shell.Not sure what caused the score mark in the centre but the journal looked OK.Had no symptoms by the way,just checked/changed them after reading this and other forums.
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With all the talk of the BEB's on the 1HDT why not monitor the oil? I have done that for years with my 3B (unfortunately I can't do it down here in Central America as there is no where to send it to). They give you a breakdown on PPM of the various materials in the oil and interpret what it means. Do a few samples to get a statistical record going and then start watching for elevated amounts of bearing material in the oil.

Finning sells an oil sampling kit for about $10-15 each sample. I was doing mine every other oil change.
 
cruiser_guy said:
With all the talk of the BEB's on the 1HDT why not monitor the oil? Finning sells an oil sampling kit for about $10-15 each sample. I was doing mine every other oil change.

For the cost of the bearings (ACL's) and the time to do it...better imo just to do it, and forget about the issue.

gb
 
that plus if you don't own the truck long enough the test is a good idea but not practicale for my business...
 
I was thinking more of a preventative nature item for folks who have the trucks rather than the importers. For me, I'd rather monitor it than replace bearings every few years just for kicks.
 
cruiser_guy said:
I was thinking more of a preventative nature item for folks who have the trucks rather than the importers. For me, I'd rather monitor it than replace bearings every few years just for kicks.

And therein lies the misunderstanding: Do it once...with ACL's

I think after the bearings are replaced, if one chooses, then testing like you mention...is a good idea if it gives peace of mind to the owner.

hth's

gb
 
Hey All,

I know everyone likes pictures, so I thought I'd add a couple of the BEBs out of my 1HD-T. I changed these at 114,000km very shortly after importing it from Japan. I was horrified by the #1 bearings, but the wear patterns on the rest were not bad. The crank at #1 was fine though, the bearing was the only ugly part. If anyone is still questioning the importance of changing BEBs, quit questioning and JUST DO IT!

Cheers, J
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Turbo (diesel) good advice there.
 
These came out of my 94 with 110k Joinerman over the pond
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I am getting a 1HDT nose clip for 6000 $ , it is out of a 80 Series JDM, approx mileage is 100 K , I have 2 questions

1. What should I be changing on the engine - Belts / Big Bearings ---------- what else ?
2. Is the price good ?

 
I'd change belts,
thermostat,
timing belt, tensioner and pulley.
Change oil and filter.
Get it running first.
Flush coolant system and refill with Toyota red.
Then assess what else.
I would avoid opening the engine to change BEBs without good reason.

Run it and do a used oil sample analysis at 5k km, then decide on big end bearings.
 
I agree with MG. I would also do a couple of oil changes in quick succession once its running. Listen for any BEB ticks.

The price is something you will find out about in 18 months or so on whether it was a bargain or not but its within the price range of what you would expect to pay. Is it cnd aud sgd usd vnd?
Did it come with any compression figures or guarantees? Just about every used engine out of Japan has 100000klms on it;)
 

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