1HDFTE - FJ62 conversion (Australia 60 Series )

[DanS HJ-45]

Looks very great!

Do you put a bead on the fuel lines, or just clamp the soft lines straight to the cut ends?

Dan

 

[dousty]

Unfortunately they are just clamped at the moment Dan. I haven't been able to form anything into the stainless with the tooling I have. Any ideas? Once it's running, I'll check for air with some clear line between the filter and fuel pump.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I wish I had good ideas there! I was hoping you had one!

Since I'm about to go down that road again myself, and this time I would like to bead the lines.

Previously I have just clamped them, and had no problems--but I'm pretty finicky about stuff like that.

I know a Parker beading tool will work on aluminum or mild steel, but not sure about even fairly thin stainless. I'm hoping to avoid aluminum for same reason you wanted to--work hardening.

EDIT--I'm looking at these.... Graham Tool Co, Inc.

Dan

 

[dousty]

Without giving it a go, I think the tubing I have is too thick for that tool. I was actually seeking mild steel instead of stainless but couldn't find it here in 12mm or 1/2". If you could get some mild then forming and beading is a lot easier and you can paint it to protect from corrosion.

 

[dousty]

The power steering lines I bent up from HZJ75 lines really bugged me. So I sourced some -6 JIC adaptors for the steering box and made up some hoses instead. I cut the banjo from the end off the pressure line and had a -6 male brazed onto it. The return is joined to some stock return hose as the blue hose I have won't go over the male on the reservoir. I'm not happy with this bit but until a solution presents itself...
At least it's better than the show I had going on first time around. I have routed the hoses with the starter cable. I couldn't use the stock hose run as the radiator needs to be lowered, that's why they are down low.

 

[dousty]

The air cleaner needed moving away from the turbo to gain the clearance needed for the 90 degree bend. If the air cleaner is moved toward the outside of the vehicle it will also need raising as there is very little clearance between the underside and the inner guard, creating possible clearance issues with the bonnet. So I removed the plastic intake tube from the inlet to the air cleaner, chopped the brackets off and "rolled" the assembly toward the battery. Then I cut and shut the mount brackets to suit the new position.
I'd still like to use a 1HDFT air cleaner lid but I just can't lay my hands on one. The breather still needs to be plumbed into the lid.

 

[cruisermatt]

Can we get a full engine bay picture please? I need a new desktop wallpaper

A white FJ62 with a 1HZT or another Toyota L6 diesel variants is one of my dream trucks and I plan on building one for my next truck. You are providing all the tech!

Solid work! Keep it up!

 

[dousty]

It runs!

 

[dousty]

Fuel filter mount. The bracket picks up 3 of the 4 holes though you can't see it in this photo. The AC receiver/drier usually mounts here but as this vehicle doesn't have air (yet) it's not a problem.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Very cool.

Our earlier discussion was about creating beads on the fuel lines. I just ordered something that will let me do so, not cheap though. I'll report back.

Dan

 

[dousty]

Very cool.

Our earlier discussion was about creating beads on the fuel lines. I just ordered something that will let me do so, not cheap though. I'll report back.

Dan

That would be great Dan, hopefully it gets the job done.

 

[dousty]

Can we get a full engine bay picture please? I need a new desktop wallpaper

A white FJ62 with a 1HZT or another Toyota L6 diesel variants is one of my dream trucks and I plan on building one for my next truck. You are providing all the tech!

Solid work! Keep it up!

I don't have one but I will sort one for you. Thanks for the encouragement

 

[dousty]

This engine uses a 42mm bottom radiator hose connection whilst the 60 series radiator is 38mm. I purchased a silicone reducer but it turned out to be at least 44mm. After taking a look in the hose bin of a parts store I found an 80 series 1HDFT bottom hose that tapers from 42mm to 38mm. Using this hose, a 38mm aluminium joiner and the 60 series' original bottom hose I was able to create the bends needed and match the 44mm pipe correctly.
The top hose is HDJ79r and fits like it was supposed to be there.
The radiator is lowered 28mm from factory to allow fan clearance with the bottom hose.

 

[dousty]

As the photos show, the FJ62 bottom radiator outlet is mounted several inches towards centre. As the 1HDFTE fan is lower and further towards the right than the 3F fan, this is a problem. Luckily the FJ60 radiator's bottom outlet is as far right as possible. Even then though a lack of clearance with the fan means the radiator must be shifted.

 

[dousty]

On the left is FJ62 and on the right is FJ60. The shift in outlet location is obvious.

 

[dousty]

I took the vehicle for it's first drive this afternoon. I have one leak at the turbo drain to fix but otherwise no problems. I bought a new drain hose and clamps but I'll swap the leaking spring clamp for a worm drive and that should have it sorted. The engine starts easily without the glow screen as expected and I'm relieved to report no fault codes at this stage too.

 

[ozcrusier]

Wow you don't stuff around dousty she must go well mate.

 

[goldchaser]

Thats gonna be an awsome truck dousty,keep the pics coming......

 

[dousty]

Thanks fellas.

Some observations so far are the clutch is heavier than the FJ62 version. It was expected and should be of course, but anyone with a left leg issue or small woman in their possession probably should consider installing a vacuum assist. The injection pump is noisy and I don't think it will take long for it to bug me. They have insulation fitted around them at factory but it was perished and not reusable so I discarded it. I will have to get it replaced. The 1HDFTE oil pressure switch doesn't suit the FJ62 gauge and now my gauge is limp so I'll need to source a replacement (I should have been paying more attention). The 3F sender though screws straight in the same position.

I have a stalling problem when after trailing throttle down to a low engine speed, if I dip the clutch the engine will stall. It's starts right back up again and is easily avoided. I have the EGR control disconnected and I suspect the inlet butterfly closes on back throttle and the EGR valve is supposed to open. As I have the EGR disconnected I may have created an issue. The inlet butterfly is defined as a shutdown device but I can hear a "woosh" if I apply any throttle percentage instead of dipping the clutch, that sounds like a low pressure from behind a butterfly. I'll disconnect the butterfly later on see what happens.

As for performance, for a stock engine this vehicle goes hard. As I mentioned earlier in this thread the peak power/torque figures are modest but the spread of power is very impressive. This vehicle is quicker than either of my previous 12HT equipped wagons, has much more off boost power, a much wider "sweet spot" and no dreaded whiskey throttle. I understand why the HDJ79R was equipped with a switch on 1st gear that the ECM used to limit torque output and I am worried about what that means for the longevity of my H55F. Whilst I wouldn't remove a 12HT to fit any other diesel, I do think here in Australia the price of a 12HT is over inflated. I couldn't find a low cost engine to rebuild which made this conversion viable to me.

That's pretty much it, I'll post up my fan shroud solution when it happens along with any other detail that might help someone else performing this conversion in the future.

Paul

 

[Tapage]

video .?