1HD-T towing observations - high EGTs

[simonliew]

Hi Steve,
the intercooler will make a big difference,before my top mount intercooler l can hardly tow 1500lbs,it will go to 1200 rightaway.
l have been playing with my setup last few weeks,g turbo,topmount intercooler,performance exhause that came with the truck from japan,(im going to do my own 3" soon),my own homeground pin,20 to 22 psi boost,l was towing my 16 feet hardshell camper (around 2500 lbs) and the max temp so far,100 to 110 km/h,1100 degrees.l was at westhawk lake last weekend,nutumiklake week before,and rushing river 3 weeks ago,auto tranny with wholesale extreme valve body,it hardly downshift to 3rd near the kenora hills.
l have two other trucks that l need to intercooler,im trying to do front mount intercooler this time for an engine l just rebuilt.
any body have any front mount pictures?
Where do u go camping?

 

[simonliew]

Hi Electricdyck,
where r u in abbortsford,l am getting my truck ready towing the camper to vancouver,is there a campground near abbordsford or chillawack?

 

[finderscuba]

Hi Steve,
the intercooler will make a big difference,before my top mount intercooler l can hardly tow 1500lbs,it will go to 1200 rightaway.
l have been playing with my setup last few weeks,g turbo,topmount intercooler,performance exhause that came with the truck from japan,(im going to do my own 3" soon),my own homeground pin,20 to 22 psi boost,l was towing my 16 feet hardshell camper (around 2500 lbs) and the max temp so far,100 to 110 km/h,1100 degrees.l was at westhawk lake last weekend,nutumiklake week before,and rushing river 3 weeks ago,auto tranny with wholesale extreme valve body,it hardly downshift to 3rd near the kenora hills.
l have two other trucks that l need to intercooler,im trying to do front mount intercooler this time for an engine l just rebuilt.
any body have any front mount pictures?
Where do u go camping?

It's Dave, not Steve.

I was camping at Falcon Lake last week. We used to have a cottage at West Hawk, and I still go diving there.
I still think I need am intercooler. I'm not sure between top mount or front.lots of room up front as I have no winch and no tranny cooler (5 speed). Front mount would also allow me to use the stock crossover pipe instead of trying to fabricate or source an adapter.

What are the dangers of running more than 14 psi on the stock turbo?

 

[simonliew]

sorry dave,now l remember,l just gotback from westhawk lastnite,it was nice n quiet sundaynite n monday after the crowds left ,l droppedoff my son n friends on sunday,they r doing the mantario trail now.
14 15 psi may be ok,more that that prob overwork the turbo and wearout sooner.
if you have the room,go front mount.

 

[Adam B]

If your measurements are accurate (probe long enough etc), then those temps aren't a problem.

But to reduce them, more boost, intercool and better turbo (in that order).

This is the best advice. The bold part is rather important if you're at all concerned with how much money you're spending and when!

The problem with over-boosting the 1HD-T is that you'll push the boost compensator diaphragm (and "power rod") into the "massive de-fuel" zone...

Some guys who are seeing large EGT drops at higher boost pressures are seeing it because the engine is being de-fueled at these pressures, and not because you're just running a lot of boost.

~John

And that's why I've been skeptical about some of the results people think they see from boost increases with no other modifications. Incidentally, my truck came from Japan with a spacer already installed on the aneroid rod that physically prevents it from reaching the fuel cut part of the rod. It bottomed out at the full fuel part. I ground my own profile (not really in the mood to pay $300 for a rod that does the exact same thing) but a simple spacer is the easiest way to keep it out of fuel cut...

Here' a pic of my set up
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/ElectricDyck/PMP_5726.jpg

I love your setup. Is that a Bohler or Trillium? Most of the places I go fishing by myself wouldn't lend themselves well to any trailer - it's all good until you have to turn around or reposition. However, the wife would probably be more likely to camp if she didn't have to sleep in the back of the cruiser....

 

[lumpy70]

And that's why I've been skeptical about some of the results people think they see from boost increases with no other modifications. Incidentally, my truck came from Japan with a spacer already installed on the aneroid rod that physically prevents it from reaching the fuel cut part of the rod. It bottomed out at the full fuel part. I ground my own profile (not really in the mood to pay $300 for a rod that does the exact same thing) but a simple spacer is the easiest way to keep it out of fuel cut...

Adam,
Do you have any pictures of the spacer?

As an aside, as Adam has said, boost alone will not do it. I had the same 3" exhaust and hadn't touched the fuel yet when I un-did the wastegate on my stock turbo. It was making 22 lbs of boost with virtually zero changes in performance or EGT.

When I got the G-Turbo (to which I was VERY skeptical) I average 18 lbs boost, EGTS's are 400 degrees lower and performance is way up in terms of speed I can maintain without gearing down.

An intercooler is definitely in the works for me but I need a bit more fuel (hence the request for Adam's spacer picture) as I've reached the max my fuel rod can deliver, more turns now equals less fuel for me now.

 

[SHREDwagon]

If building your own IC - top mount would be much easier.

For front mount, clearances are very tight on the right side above the power steering lines, radiator and below the headlight (behind the marker light). Have to cut bottom fender, delete one horn and pivot over power steering lines to accommodate ducting. It seems any other route would leave alot of exposed piping. LOTS of welding required..... Intake will have to be modified anyways.

Note: I no jack about building custom IC's. So, ex-ricer's flame away.

If you need any pics Simon - PM me....

 

[ukaviator]

Surprised no one has mentioned advancing your timing.
Doing this just a hair will decrease your EGT's as well

 

[finderscuba]

Surprised no one has mentioned advancing your timing.
Doing this just a hair will decrease your EGT's as well

I've been curious about this as well. Ever since I removed my leaking ACSD, I felt my timing needed to be advanced slightly. I just haven't had the courage to mess with it. How much is a hair?

 

[simonliew]

Hi Lumpy,most of the time the pushrod is sitting too far in ,especially if you grind your own rod,so l put a approx 3mm washer between the pneumatic bellows spring and the diaphram,you don't have to unbolt the rod from the spring,just make sure the washer od is wider than the spring and the id is big enough for the rod to go thru,so u slide the washer onto the rod n rest it on the diaphram,now the rod sits higher,you can adjust the guide bushing to get the right height,then you have to drind the tapered shim on the inside of the diaphram cover so its will not push the pin in too far.
offcause u have to take the 17mm bolts that hold the connecting pin n lever control spring out,and find out where the connecting pin is pushing on the rod,takes time.
l have pictures but no time to download yet.

 

[Traveller]

You can take out the pin, turn the ground ring upwards and the top nodge to the right position.
Wen you have the pin out, mark the "rich" position on the membrane zo you can adjust by turning from the top...

Mike

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD... fun starts where the road ends

 

[ukaviator]

I've been curious about this as well. Ever since I removed my leaking ACSD, I felt my timing needed to be advanced slightly. I just haven't had the courage to mess with it. How much is a hair?

Well i have the 1HDFT motor, and have heard the IP's are notoriously retarded in stock form from the factory. I have read on the Aussie forums and on expo, guys advancing their timing 1mm seeing a reduction in EGT's of between 100-150F.

I know yours is the 1HDT but they are both mechanical pumps so the principle is the same. Try advancing it 1mm, and see if there is any difference. If not, you can always put it back to where it was.

It's on my to do list!

 

[crushers]

i would not recommend towing 4500 lbs with a HDT, short hauls maybe, long hauls or mountains, nope.

3500 lbs is the max i would recommend.

 

[Adam B]

Adam,
Do you have any pictures of the spacer?

For some reason I never took a photo of it - I have all the other internal parts here...

For anyone who plans to remove their aneroid rod you need to remove that 17mm head bolt from the front of the pump. It has a copper crush washer behind it (which I have reused a dozen times) and the little spring that pushes the follower pin, making it stay in contact with the aneroid rod. Make sure you don't lose the spring when you take the bolt out! You can remove the aneroid rod without taking the bolt/spring out but you can't get it back in because the spring will push the follower pin into the path of the aneroid rod.

The spacer I have is just an aluminum ring around the aneroid rod, sitting right below the diaphragm. It ends up inside the preload spring when it's all together and it physically prevents the rod from going down any more, no matter how much boost you apply. The original one actually limited the travel more than I wanted so I was trying to tune over quite a short range of travel, which is more difficult.

In the following photo you can see the profile of my stock rod, as well as the groove from the follower pin in its original factory position. When people refer to the "fuel cut" or "massive de-fueling" part of the rod it's the part that tapers back out to full diameter above the skinny straight section in the middle.

Increasing the boost did not make the rod drop down any more because the spacer ring (not shown) prevented it. After doing my own grind I shortened the ring (I can dig up the final measurement when I'm at home) so now my full boost position takes me to just before the "fuel cut" part of the rod begins. I think I actually ground into the fuel cut a little bit so I had more range to work with but sadly I didn't photograph my rod after modifications. Now that sounds funny.....

 

[Tapage]

Adam .. you never try adjusting the pin spring ( at aneroid base bigger one on the lower left of your parts pic ) to prevent pin moving that " easy " when running more than stock boost ?

 

[Adam B]

I did, but I wanted to know that I had a hard limit no matter how much boost I decided to run in future. I figured I'd probably end up with 25psi one day and I didn't want to have to set the spring tension a certain way just to control fuel cut.

This way I set my main fuel screw for max EGTs at full boost, heavy load, heavy throttle. I set the off-boost disc to a minimum (it has the full range of increase available but I don't need to). I then use the spring tension to tune out most of the smoke at partial boost levels. Although, this turbo doesn't spend much time at partial boost, unlike the stocker which takes forever to get there and can't hold it much beyond 3000rpm.

 

[Dougal]

i would not recommend towing 4500 lbs with a HDT, short hauls maybe, long hauls or mountains, nope.

3500 lbs is the max i would recommend.

You are aware that most diesel 80's were sold with 2,500kg and some with 3,500kg tow ratings?

Contrary to most photographs from the US, you don't need a dually to tow a jet-ski.

 

[ElectricDyck]

Again, thanks for the info all! Thanks for the pics of your rod Adam I'm curious whether I'm defueling and getting lower egts....sure feels like it's got more pull than before.

I love your setup. Is that a Bohler or Trillium? Most of the places I go fishing by myself wouldn't lend themselves well to any trailer - it's all good until you have to turn around or reposition. However, the wife would probably be more likely to camp if she didn't have to sleep in the back of the cruiser....

It's a trillium with a 3 inch lift. You can pick it up by the tongue and reposition if necesarry, easier with 2 people when loaded. My wife loves it, especially the furnace and the fridge. I've had it down to hail creek before.
Hale Creek with The Trillium - YouTube

 

[crushers]

Dougal,
you and i have been down this road in the past ...
we will agree to disagree.
until you are willing to replace peoples trans then those numbers are an unwise suggestion to agree with.
he will tow what he feels comfortable with.

You are aware that most diesel 80's were sold with 2,500kg and some with 3,500kg tow ratings?

Contrary to most photographs from the US, you don't need a dually to tow a jet-ski.

 

[Dougal]

Dougal,
you and i have been down this road in the past ...
we will agree to disagree.
until you are willing to replace peoples trans then those numbers are an unwise suggestion to agree with.
he will tow what he feels comfortable with.

Those transmissions last fine in heavy towing. 80's and 100's are the most common tow rig here for caravans, boats and horses. But steadily being replaced by landrover discoveries as they age. 200 series are too big, prados don't have enough go.

The kind of people who blow up transmissions can do that with 1.5t too.