1HD-T / LS1 or ???
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crushers
post ho
yah, seriously ...
start digging.
start digging.
1HZ's also have weak crankshafts, made from recycled toasters, they break all the time. And they cast the heads with used coffee grinds instead of sand. edit: not to mention their water pumps are built from used laundry machine parts.
double edit: And their air filter media is made from old cabbage leaves unfit to be brought to market.
JK.
double edit: And their air filter media is made from old cabbage leaves unfit to be brought to market.
JK.
Last edited:
Nope, not assumptions. The 1HZ's issues when turbocharged are extremely well known.
Don't expect to find it all over the net, it was 20 years ago when the 1HZ first arrived and people starting trying to make them go.
They found out pretty quickly what went wrong.
NONE of the things you have mentioned will help.
It's an inefficient design which puts a lot of heat into the head. This is why it overheats.
It's got a head weakened by the precombustion chamber holes, this is why they crack.
They also produce a lot less power for the same boost and fuel, because they are less efficient, which makes them a terrible choice as a race motor.
Yeah, it's a different world over here. Wayne has spent about 5 years not believing me.
If you ask him, the 1HZ gets better fuel economy too.
I don't have to dig. I have personally known about 9 turbo'd HZ over the years that all run alot hotter than the DT. You have never tried to buy a compensator have you? Or owned a DT? I have no idea what your love affair is with the HZ. But if you think it's better than DT. Your absolutely dreaming...
Yeah, grown up with all these engines over here. So there's nothing mystical about them. I've stripped mine down and rebuilding it atm. Haven't yet checked the piston oil squirts on a HZ either to see if that's true or not. But there are ALOT of differences between the 2. Even a HZ in a 75 we went up the beach with (31" tyres) naturally aspirated and rebuilt. Started over heating in the soft sand lol. When people ask about turboing a HZ, we tell them to just sell it and buy a DT. It's alot easier and hassle free with with a purpose built factory turbo engine.
The issues with the 1HZ is, apart from the weak factory pistons, is that people put aftermarket turbos on them that are not well suited and run high egts (low afrs) to get decent boost response. The high egts assist with the cracking issues on both the precoms and the pistons.
There are several people I know of who have run high boost (25psi) but also high AFRs (~21:1 which is high for an idi) and low EGTS (450C full load) without issue - even in racing environments.
On the other hand, 12psi and 17:1 will kill them.
I am fairly confident I will have a 250-300whp 1HZ (stock, except the thicker crown coated aftermarket pistons now available, and 1HDT rods) running 35-40psi ~ 18.5:1. Cooling to the head will be enhanced. Intercooling will be as good as I can get it.
We are pulling out a stroked VP Commodore 308 from my brothers racing Nissan Patrol and installing the 1HZ. We could install a TD42, but the cranks break in those at high outputs. Plus, the 1HZ is much maligned and I aim to test my theory.
I think it will work. I am prepared to be wrong, but I am confident.
I realise that this flies in the face of many persons assumptions - however the wrong assumptions lead to the wrong conclusions!
There are several people I know of who have run high boost (25psi) but also high AFRs (~21:1 which is high for an idi) and low EGTS (450C full load) without issue - even in racing environments.
On the other hand, 12psi and 17:1 will kill them.
I am fairly confident I will have a 250-300whp 1HZ (stock, except the thicker crown coated aftermarket pistons now available, and 1HDT rods) running 35-40psi ~ 18.5:1. Cooling to the head will be enhanced. Intercooling will be as good as I can get it.
We are pulling out a stroked VP Commodore 308 from my brothers racing Nissan Patrol and installing the 1HZ. We could install a TD42, but the cranks break in those at high outputs. Plus, the 1HZ is much maligned and I aim to test my theory.
I think it will work. I am prepared to be wrong, but I am confident.
I realise that this flies in the face of many persons assumptions - however the wrong assumptions lead to the wrong conclusions!
Presuming you're doing IDI for the extended rev range? Aside from the "because I can and I want to" angle that gets us all into trouble.
Thanks Graeme. I'm sure you can get big HP and relative egt's and afr's if your prepared to spend lots of $$. It would still be alot easier to use a HDT 
.
Ps. Got the head back today
. Increased the VE by 7-8%. And a large heavy box has shown up from the states. Should have it running by Tuesday and dialed in by Thursday .
. Ps. Got the head back today
. Increased the VE by 7-8%. And a large heavy box has shown up from the states. Should have it running by Tuesday and dialed in by Thursday .
crushers
post ho
since BigBoy and Dougal can't come up with any proof of the HZ turbo'd head issues, how about people posting up their HZ head cracking issues?
post up mods to the engine, towing or not, racing or not, DD, boost, fuel settings, km on the engine.
I get it BB, you love your HDT and i understand the Dougal dislikes any IDI engine but that isn't proof that there is an issue.
GB, i am interested in your results, good or bad.
i would still go with the LS1 for the OP competition application
post up mods to the engine, towing or not, racing or not, DD, boost, fuel settings, km on the engine.
I get it BB, you love your HDT and i understand the Dougal dislikes any IDI engine but that isn't proof that there is an issue.
GB, i am interested in your results, good or bad.
i would still go with the LS1 for the OP competition application
Can't? Oh no, we thought you'd have found it already and didn't need help.
Same forum, quite recent:
1HZ turbocharged with excessive blowby, piston damage and cracked head.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/605157-advice-condition-turbo-thanks-6.html
I didn't look any further.
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This s***'s better than Springer.
That's just what's on the net. Most people I speak with running a turbo HZ has some kind of overheating issues. We used a factory CT26 and manifold with the 1 we turbo'd. So it was water and oil cooled. You can't buy a boost compensator for them. They are impossible to find and cost an absolute fortune. Mike vine tuned this 1 and it still ran very hot under load. Even with high afr's.
Apart from Graeme who is a genius with turbo's. Most people just run low boost. The comp guys run them hot for power and performance, but factor in rebuilding them.
Apart from Graeme who is a genius with turbo's. Most people just run low boost. The comp guys run them hot for power and performance, but factor in rebuilding them.
Ha ha, just a difference of opinion. I don't know what it's like in the US. But they are common as f#€k over here. And have been for 20 years.
crushers
post ho
i read a few of the links, didn't have much free time today ... seems once again that it is a lack of proper installation of all parts needed:
http://www.all-american.nl/products/toyota/70/performance/
LDA
doesn't take long to find if you want to do the install properly.
cost? cheaper than a junk engine if you can't control your right foot.
on those threads they was a lot of talk of guys that had turbo'd the 1HZ with no issues for hundreds of thousands of km. as a few threads pointed out that the issue could have been created before the turbo was installed and the turbo just accentuated the existing issue.
a non-turbo engine creates massive cyl head heat and adding a turbo does not increase heat into the chamber, as you pointed out. the idiot cranking up the fuel causes the issues.
you love the HDT, we all understand that point.
Dougal, i could pull up a single thread on the BEB of the early HDT and state they are all s*** and no one should own one. very simple to do. i wouldn't need to go any further either.
it comes down the engine condition before turbo, fuel setting and driving style after turbo. it really is just that simple.
http://www.all-american.nl/products/toyota/70/performance/
LDA
doesn't take long to find if you want to do the install properly.
cost? cheaper than a junk engine if you can't control your right foot.
on those threads they was a lot of talk of guys that had turbo'd the 1HZ with no issues for hundreds of thousands of km. as a few threads pointed out that the issue could have been created before the turbo was installed and the turbo just accentuated the existing issue.
a non-turbo engine creates massive cyl head heat and adding a turbo does not increase heat into the chamber, as you pointed out. the idiot cranking up the fuel causes the issues.
you love the HDT, we all understand that point.
Dougal, i could pull up a single thread on the BEB of the early HDT and state they are all s*** and no one should own one. very simple to do. i wouldn't need to go any further either.
it comes down the engine condition before turbo, fuel setting and driving style after turbo. it really is just that simple.
Oh this is better than stringer.
So those all had issues because:
1. Wayne didn't install them using high quality bolts and hose clamps.
2. The owners dared to use the power available.
The whole "your right foot broke it" argument is complete bollocks. If an engine can't handle full power sustained, then either the engine or the tuning is complete and utter rubbish.
So they melt pistons and crack heads without the turbos now?
I don't love the HD-T or any engine. The 1HD-T is okay, certainly better than the 1HZ for power, torque, efficiency and longevity (aside from the BEB issue) but it's not an engine I even want to own.
Sorry for killing that fantasy for you.
Go ahead, man-up and start a 1HD-T's are junk thread. It'll be entertaining reading if nothing else. But remember, turbo 1HZ's have had exactly the same BEB issue.
P.S. If Graeme says he can build a high power 1HZ and keep it reliable, then I trust him to do exactly that. He's got the background, the equipment, the turbos and the analytical approach to nail down each problem and deal to it.
If Wayne says he can build a high power 1HZ and keep it reliable, I think he's talking out his rear.
So those all had issues because:
1. Wayne didn't install them using high quality bolts and hose clamps.
2. The owners dared to use the power available.
The whole "your right foot broke it" argument is complete bollocks. If an engine can't handle full power sustained, then either the engine or the tuning is complete and utter rubbish.
So they melt pistons and crack heads without the turbos now?
I don't love the HD-T or any engine. The 1HD-T is okay, certainly better than the 1HZ for power, torque, efficiency and longevity (aside from the BEB issue) but it's not an engine I even want to own.
Sorry for killing that fantasy for you.
Go ahead, man-up and start a 1HD-T's are junk thread. It'll be entertaining reading if nothing else. But remember, turbo 1HZ's have had exactly the same BEB issue.
P.S. If Graeme says he can build a high power 1HZ and keep it reliable, then I trust him to do exactly that. He's got the background, the equipment, the turbos and the analytical approach to nail down each problem and deal to it.
If Wayne says he can build a high power 1HZ and keep it reliable, I think he's talking out his rear.
crushers
post ho
debate over, i have no desire to get into a personal attack and banned because of you.
It's not that we love the DT. It is basically a UPGRADED HZ, designed to take a turbo. You keep saying they wherent installed properly. Most are turbo kits from major companies. It's impossible to tune a non compensated pump properly. FYI it's $2600 for a HDT pump and compensator (reco'd and bought outright - no exchange). Then a turbo kit. Your looking at about 6k to do it propperly. Even then the idi will cause it to run hotter than DT running the same afr's. The HZ is a good engine for N/A or running low boost. I think you should leave it alone until you've actually owned a DT.
The bottom line is heat kills diesels. A turbo'd HZ is no where near as good as a Factory turbo'd DT.
The bottom line is heat kills diesels. A turbo'd HZ is no where near as good as a Factory turbo'd DT.
