1HD-T Alternator Upgrade (1 Viewer)

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Just plain stubborn. Then I tore up one of them. Need to find some new ones. Heat, PB Blaster and patience are always the key!
 
I'm resurrecting this old thread because this appears to be the primary location of info for putting an FZJ alternator into an HDJ, which is an awfully elegant and cheap approach here in the US. Landtank has a 150A FZJ for half the cost of the HDJ 120A Terrain Tamer.

I got a Terrain Tamer 4 years ago and it seems to be going bad, big voltage fluctuations (down to ~12V at times) randomly while driving. I still need to verify it's the alternator and not some other issue, but I've learned to always prepare for the worst. Since it's doubled in price since I bought it, and it only lasted 4 years, I'm definitely not interested in replacing it. I also live 4 hours from the nearest shop to rebuild. I also have added a York for OBA with custom brackets and moved my AC to accommodate it and therefore don't have room to go UP with my bracket at all. From the photos I've seen, this eliminates the Sequoia option which appears to rely on rotating the current alternator position up towards the AC compressor.

It appears as though there are two brackets for HDJ's depending on which alternator they came with originally, 60A has a slightly lower arc than the 110A. Photos and P/Ns in this thread.

@Rob Faucett I know this is old so might not go anywhere, but what alternator was in your rig to start with? I assume you had a 100A with the higher arc, so maybe that the lower-arc bracket might be a OEM solution to our mounting problem with the FZJ alternator. Has this FJZ alternator worked well for you overall?
 
Im running an early FZJ80 alt (80 amps I think) on a '93 1HZ with the stock bracket - works great. I am going to guess small bracket was for smaller amp alt? I could take some measurements today of the alt mounting if that would help.
 
I'm not sure you could easily measure the difference, the photos make it look very slight....I think the difference between alternator mounting points is only 5mm which would be hard to measure on vehicle.
However, your info is helpful: I believe your rig came with a 60 or 80A and it lists the smaller-arc bracket, P/N 16381-17010. The bigger arc bracket for the larger alternators, 16381-17020, is listed on some other 1HZ models that came with a larger 100A+ alternator. That said, you are confirming the conclusion I drew from the photo above: The FJZ alternator requires the smaller-arc bracket (or minor modification of the bigger-arc bracket). I'm pretty sure I have the larger-arc bracket as the 27060-17250TT alternator I have installed was used a on vehicle that also lists the larger -20 bracket.
 
I'm not sure you could easily measure the difference, the photos make it look very slight....I think the difference between alternator mounting points is only 5mm which would be hard to measure on vehicle.
However, your info is helpful: I believe your rig came with a 60 or 80A and it lists the smaller-arc bracket, P/N 16381-17010. The bigger arc bracket for the larger alternators, 16381-17020, is listed on some other 1HZ models that came with a larger 100A+ alternator. That said, you are confirming the conclusion I drew from the photo above: The FJZ alternator requires the smaller-arc bracket (or minor modification of the bigger-arc bracket). I'm pretty sure I have the larger-arc bracket as the 27060-17250TT alternator I have installed was used a on vehicle that also lists the larger -20 bracket.
Sounds good! happy to take photos or poke around if anything would help ya
 
I'm aware of that alternator, but I don't understand the use case/problem being solved. Maybe if I had LTO batteries that could fully charge in 15 minutes, or wanted to weld from my truck regularly? Otherwise that money seems better spent on shocks or something that palpably improves the user experience.
 
I'm aware of that alternator, but I don't understand the use case/problem being solved. Maybe if I had LTO batteries that could fully charge in 15 minutes, or wanted to weld from my truck regularly? Otherwise that money seems better spent on shocks or something that palpably improves the user experience.

Onboard welding, large battery bank, or even winching are good ideas for an upgrade. Anything with high electrical demands.

But fix what you have first. Maybe poor ground or wiring even battery choices can make a huge difference. You can also do a diode mod to the signal wire to have a slightly higher charge voltage to top up your AGMs
 
I did that diode mod but had an odd result wherein it didn't seem to affect charging voltage, see here.
 

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