1FZ Ignition Timing discussion (performance, mpg, octane, etc.)

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Basically, the computer is adjusting for the mechanical advance and the vacuum advance as what the OLD cars used to have. The base timing was set, then you could change either the mechanical advance or the vacuum advance to modify your power curve to make more HP at a given RPM throughout the curve. You could ramp it up quickly, but you would lose at the top end.

The computer does it for you now. Do the paperclip and timing light to set the BASE timing. Once you unplug the paperclip, the computer takes over from there. It advances the spark based on engine RPM and intake manifold vacuum or MAF. It's all run by formulas and that's why it may make a difference if you change the MAF sensor.

:deadhorse:
 
scottryana said:
This thread is talking about setting the static timing, which is not displayed on the scan gauge.

I was clarifying. You set your base static timing using a timing light and then based on the ecu timing map the truck adds additional timing. Example:

Base timing 3 degrees at let's say at some point on the timing map the truck adds 10 more degrees of timing for a total of 13 degrees. But if you advance the base timing to 8 it will be 18 at the same point on the load map, potentially causing detonation.
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BILT4ME said:
Basically, the computer is adjusting for the mechanical advance and the vacuum advance as what the OLD cars used to have. The base timing was set, then you could change either the mechanical advance or the vacuum advance to modify your power curve to make more HP at a given RPM throughout the curve. You could ramp it up quickly, but you would lose at the top end.

The computer does it for you now. Do the paperclip and timing light to set the BASE timing. Once you unplug the paperclip, the computer takes over from there. It advances the spark based on engine RPM and intake manifold vacuum or MAF. It's all run by formulas and that's why it may make a difference if you change the MAF sensor.

:deadhorse:
Click to expand...

Got it



...via IH8MUD app
 
Pin_Head said:
You should read the thread where this device was tested on a real dynamometer and was shown to be wanting, proving once again that the butt dynamometer is a big time liar.
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Haha yes it's like religion, and I believe in my butt dyno! Everyone else are infidels! Either way I don't hardly ever run wot what's good for dyno is useless for me. I like my lower throttle response improvement even at the expense of wot power lost.

Looks like OP is going SC route and maf won't make much difference at that point.


...Misspelled via IH8MUD app
 
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ATTENTION Californians!!!!!

I was able to get ride of my 401 code today so I drove to the smog place full of confidence in passing the smog and move onto other mods.........well I failed. Apparently CA require the smoke place to check timing on 99 and older model against factory setting. So the timing has to be factory which is 3 and +-3 degrees and I was at 9 according to the smog guy.

The bright side is I passed on every thing else.

So if you are in CA and going to get smog test don't forget to set your timing back to 3 and save your self a trip. Or keep it at 6 degrees which could pass depends on the tech.
 
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Qball said:
ATTENTION Californians!!!!!

I was able to get ride of my 401 code today so I drove to the smog place full of confidence in passing the smog and move onto other mods.........well I failed. Apparently CA require the smoke place to check timing on 99 and older model against factory setting. So the timing has to be factory which is 3 and +-3 degrees and I was at 9 according to the smog guy.

The bright side is I passed on every thing else.

So if you are in CA and going to get smog test don't forget to set your timing back to 3 and save your self a trip. Or keep it at 6 degrees which could pass depends on the tech.
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Same thing happened to me. It's not a big deal. Just change it then change it back two seconds later after you pass emissions.
 
IMHO by advancing the timing on a SC'd truck that is already prone to pinging due to high intake temps without an intercooler would be counterproductive. If you have functioning knock sensors the truck will retard timing if it can, and if it can't retard far enough you could be left with engine damage.
 
NLXTACY said:
Same thing happened to me. It's not a big deal. Just change it then change it back two seconds later after you pass emissions.
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Yup, not a big deal since it takes less than 2 minutes to change but could of saved me a trip to the shop.....they were closing. Doh!



...Misspelled via IH8MUD app
 
scottryana said:
IMHO by advancing the timing on a SC'd truck that is already prone to pinging due to high intake temps without an intercooler would be counterproductive. If you have functioning knock sensors the truck will retard timing if it can, and if it can't retard far enough you could be left with engine damage.
Click to expand...

good info, makes sense! thank you!

Noah
 
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