Recently replaced my original dizzy with a salvage yard part, placed it in the same position as the old (no timing light), runs good. Will experiment with the numbers quoted above as soon as I find a working timing light. FWIW.
1FZ Ignition Timing discussion (performance, mpg, octane, etc.)
- Thread starter 98 SNAKE EATER
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Checked the site and there is a place 10 min. from my house. 1 of 5 places that carry in CT> Burlington Ct. They have 94, 98, 104. Sounds crazy to put in a Landcruiser. Maybe a FI street car.
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Yeah baby 
Yikes!!
Yikes!!
Dude, that's boat gas
Oh wait... maybe that's right...
Oh wait... maybe that's right...
On so what am I doing wrong??
Accessories turned off, jumper installed and the Ultrgauge reads 4.0, which is the factory setting.
When I attach the timing light (plug 1) I see the notch at about 8.
I have a tendency to believe the Ultra-gauge as I highly doubt the PO advanced it. And when I replaced dizzy, I marked how it was lined up and put it back the same.
I later bought a timing light to check it and thought, "sweet mine is already advanced to 8"......
Any thoughts??
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Accessories turned off, jumper installed and the Ultrgauge reads 4.0, which is the factory setting.
When I attach the timing light (plug 1) I see the notch at about 8.
I have a tendency to believe the Ultra-gauge as I highly doubt the PO advanced it. And when I replaced dizzy, I marked how it was lined up and put it back the same.
I later bought a timing light to check it and thought, "sweet mine is already advanced to 8"......
Any thoughts??
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^^^Anyone.....???
I don't think I am understanding the TDC as I have not done anything with that...???
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I don't think I am understanding the TDC as I have not done anything with that...???
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I could be wrong here, it has happened once before, 
but the 4 degrees you read on your ultra gauge is dynamic timing, the timing your checking with the timing light is your base timing. The 1FZ has computer controlled timing advance which is what your are seeing. It is also how the truck retards timing when it senses knock.
but the 4 degrees you read on your ultra gauge is dynamic timing, the timing your checking with the timing light is your base timing. The 1FZ has computer controlled timing advance which is what your are seeing. It is also how the truck retards timing when it senses knock.
I could be wrong here, it has happened once before,
So it is already advanced then...??
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Time advance is what ecu adds to the base timing. I think if you put the paper clip in your scan gage should read 3 for timing advance......at least that's what I remember what mine said when I did it. But it should be steady and doesn't change.
Did you drive it and noticed the difference?
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Did you drive it and noticed the difference?
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I never moved it....so either it has always been advanced or it is still at stock setting. It has always driven like a tired dog. I really don't think it is advanced....???
What is the deal with Top Dead Center?? Does that matter when the jumper is in and I am using a light?
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Since you are advancing the base/mechanical timing you need to use the light. It should be somewhere between 3 and 10.
If you don't notice the different then it may just be the different isn't noticeable to you. Also have you replaced the O2 sensors?
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O2 are about 2yrs old.
So I can't really mess it up.....jumper, start car, timing light on plug #1, the notch is consistently at 8 or so....
So "TDC" does not apply at all in this situation??
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If the light says 8 then you have advanced your base timing to 8 degrees. At 8 you should keep an ear out for pinging.
So you don't notice any difference? No it won't be night and day difference but it was noticeable......to me at least.
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No I don't notice a difference however, assuming it is at 8, it has been at 8 since I got it. I didn't change anything. I replaced the dizzy a while a go and marked it when I took it off to ensure that I placed the new one back properly.
A few months later I bought a light and tested it and it was at 8 so I never messed with it.
Got the Ultragauge about 2 weeks ago....then saw this thread.....then thought I wasn't advanced.
Dang it!! I was hoping I was at 4!!
Ah I see, that's why no difference
Well if you want power then trdpartsforyou.com has the supercharger for 3200 shipped. Unfortunately there isn't much else you can do on these old beasts.
Btw have you tried landtank maf housing? That helped me a bit.
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Timing advance should change depending on rpm and load.
Ah I see, that's why no difference
Well if you want power then trdpartsforyou.com has the supercharger for 3200 shipped. Unfortunately there isn't much else you can do on these old beasts.
Btw have you tried landtank maf housing? That helped me a bit.
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Do you have a link for the SC? I found via Google: trdparts4U.com and the SC is 3375.00. I am about to pull the trigger on the SC and would love to save that $175.0. Thanks!
.....right....this thread is referring to adjusting the timing. I don't think the RPM and Load are a factor....
(Except that a/c, blower, etc...should be turned off)
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This thread is talking about setting the static timing, which is not displayed on the scan gauge.
I was clarifying. You set your base static timing using a timing light and then based on the ecu timing map the truck adds additional timing. Example:
Base timing 3 degrees at let's say at some point on the timing map the truck adds 10 more degrees of timing for a total of 13 degrees. But if you advance the base timing to 8 it will be 18 at the same point on the load map, potentially causing detonation.
I was clarifying. You set your base static timing using a timing light and then based on the ecu timing map the truck adds additional timing. Example:
Base timing 3 degrees at let's say at some point on the timing map the truck adds 10 more degrees of timing for a total of 13 degrees. But if you advance the base timing to 8 it will be 18 at the same point on the load map, potentially causing detonation.