1FZ-FE Head Gasket - Question and My Parts List

[6lug]

I am about to place my order for all of the parts I think I need for my head gasket job. Something I wasn't sure about (there is a LOT I am unsure about on this job) were valve guide bushings. Are these 100% replacement when sending the head to a shop? Should I plan on some, if not all, being out of clearance? Should I order a whole set or cross that bridge when I get there? I want to have all the parts on hand to minimize down time, but I can't find any kind of track record on these being in spec when checked. And they are kind of expensive. Truck has 218K on it, no failures, this will be preventative maintenance.

Thank you.

 

[baldilocks]

Cross that bridge when you come to it. The PO of mine did the HG at 265k and only had it surfaced for flatness. Now at 308k with no signs of leaky valve stems. 1fz valve guides are not normally an outstanding issue. At only 218k miles you should expect positive feedback from the shop.

 

[6lug]

Thank you!

 

[6lug]

Anyone care to review my parts list?

04112-66036 Valve Grind Kit (head gasket)
15725-66010 Oil cooler cover gasket
15785-66010 Oil cooler gaskets (x2)
15134-20010 Oil cooler orings (x2)
90999-92003 Small hose material
90910-02111 Cyl Head bolts (x14)
90201-12222 Cyl Head washers x14
90116-10169 Exhaust manifold studs x13
90179-10128 Exhaust nuts x13
90080-12007 Exhaust mani to pipe stud x4
90080-17187 Exhaust mani to pipe nut x4
WPT-023 Water Pump
23300-69045 Fuel Filter
BRZ-1A PHH Kit (WITS END)
00285-00103 Sealant
Assembly Lube
Valve shims (CHECK BEFORE DISASSEMBLY!!!)
Silicoln spray
96721-19010 Oil Dipstick oring
90301-09173 Trans Dipstick oring
Red coolant
15785-66010 Heater Pipe gasket? (Goes into thermostat housing x2 more per ih8mud)
90430-12005 ECT sensor gasket (in head gasket kit? Other sensor gaskets?)
23280-75010 Fuel pressure regulator

PCV Kit:
12261-66021 Vent hose 1
90467-14001 (2) Clips for hose # 1
12262-66021 Vent hose 2
90467-20002 (2) Clips for hose #2
12204-35040 PCV valve
90480-18001 PCV grommet

Hoses:
99555-10200
16267-66020
16261-66040
16264-66021
16571-66030
16572-66021
16573-66010

90916-03117 t-stat

04446-60080 Power Steering Rebuild
90301-73004 O-ring
44327-30030 High pressure gasket
6203-2nse9 Nachi bearing

heater valve hoses:
87245-60480
87245-60350
87245-60340
U shaped hose

 

[beatle_bayly]

In my experience, if you are lifting the head on a 1FZ at >200,000 miles you'd be crazy not to replace valve guides. Here in Australia at least most 1FZs start to get a little 'fumey' at about that mileage and valve stem seals alone won't cure it. Not many FZJ80s here were fitted with cats so the oil leakage is likely more noticeable to the nose than on US catalyzed vehicles, even if the oil usage is barely noticeable on the dipstick.

 

[blinkerfluid]

This^^

I would replace the valves and guides while its out. Not a small job to remove the head assy

 

[Malleus]

I am about to place my order for all of the parts I think I need for my head gasket job. Something I wasn't sure about (there is a LOT I am unsure about on this job) were valve guide bushings. Are these 100% replacement when sending the head to a shop? Should I plan on some, if not all, being out of clearance? Should I order a whole set or cross that bridge when I get there? I want to have all the parts on hand to minimize down time, but I can't find any kind of track record on these being in spec when checked. And they are kind of expensive. Truck has 218K on it, no failures, this will be preventative maintenance.

Thank you.

I just did this last week. My engine has 371,493 miles on it and the guides were in spec. So were the valves; they only needed a light grind to clean up. The head, however, was not. The shop had to cut 0.015-in off the bottom to flatten it. Head bolts were also another matter. I had to replace (6). Well, not had to, but chose to. They were all above the minimum, and actually only a few thousandths below the new lower limit, but since they were in the middle, where the hump was, I didn't feel good about them. The one in the rear on the exhaust corner was also toast.

I also would not order the shims. The machine shop can compensate by trimming the valve stems. Much cheaper.

You should replace the heater tee, if you are replacing all the other heater components.

If your PS pump bearing isn't squealing, it's probably still OK. The pressure hose is something to look at, though. If it's at all suspect, you'll never have a better time to get at it to R & R.

I spent several hours degreasing the engine before I opened it up. That was time well spent.

Remember to pin the fuel supply line so the open end is above the level of the tank; if not it will siphon fuel onto the ground under the truck until the tank is empty.

Lastly, check the sensors, and connectors on all the sensors, on the intake side of the head. Three of four of mine crumbled in my hand when I tried to pull the harness. I was able to save two of the harness side connectors, but the engine temperature gauge sensor connector (the one closest to the front) literally came apart in pieces too small to recognize as a connector. You can still get connector housings, if you loose one, and all the sensors area available as aftermarket; I chose to replace the ECU temp sensor with OEM, but the others I cheaped out on.

Oh, and do clean the engine side firewall very well, before you pull the harness through.

 

[6lug]

In my experience, if you are lifting the head on a 1FZ at >200,000 miles you'd be crazy not to replace valve guides. Here in Australia at least most 1FZs start to get a little 'fumey' at about that mileage and valve stem seals alone won't cure it. Not many FZJ80s here were fitted with cats so the oil leakage is likely more noticeable to the nose than on US catalyzed vehicles, even if the oil usage is barely noticeable on the dipstick.

This^^

I would replace the valves and guides while its out. Not a small job to remove the head assy

This is not to argue, but simply learn. If they are all in spec, would you still do it? Why?

Thanks for the info.

 

[6lug]

I just did this last week. My engine has 371,493 miles on it and the guides were in spec. So were the valves; they only needed a light grind to clean up. The head, however, was not. The shop had to cut 0.015-in off the bottom to flatten it. Head bolts were also another matter. I had to replace (6). Well, not had to, but chose to. They were all above the minimum, and actually only a few thousandths below the new lower limit, but since they were in the middle, where the hump was, I didn't feel good about them. The one in the rear on the exhaust corner was also toast.

I also would not order the shims. The machine shop can compensate by trimming the valve stems. Much cheaper.

You should replace the heater tee, if you are replacing all the other heater components.

If your PS pump bearing isn't squealing, it's probably still OK. The pressure hose is something to look at, though. If it's at all suspect, you'll never have a better time to get at it to R & R.

I spent several hours degreasing the engine before I opened it up. That was time well spent.

Remember to pin the fuel supply line so the open end is above the level of the tank; if not it will siphon fuel onto the ground under the truck until the tank is empty.

Lastly, check the sensors, and connectors on all the sensors, on the intake side of the head. Three of four of mine crumbled in my hand when I tried to pull the harness. I was able to save two of the harness side connectors, but the engine temperature gauge sensor connector (the one closest to the front) literally came apart in pieces too small to recognize as a connector. You can still get connector housings, if you loose one, and all the sensors area available as aftermarket; I chose to replace the ECU temp sensor with OEM, but the others I cheaped out on.

Oh, and do clean the engine side firewall very well, before you pull the harness through.

Thanks for the extra info. I also saw a "tip" yesterday to not try to disconnect the exhaust manifolds from the y-pipe, just pull them off and tie the exhaust out of the way to the right. Yay or nay?

 

[NLXTACY]

Thanks for the extra info. I also saw a "tip" yesterday to not try to disconnect the exhaust manifolds from the y-pipe, just pull them off and tie the exhaust out of the way to the right. Yay or nay?

I see no reason for that. Perfect time to replace the donuts and replace the hardware.

 

[Malleus]

Thanks for the extra info. I also saw a "tip" yesterday to not try to disconnect the exhaust manifolds from the y-pipe, just pull them off and tie the exhaust out of the way to the right. Yay or nay?

My header-downpipe nuts came off easy-peasy (albeit with a 3/4-in air impact). At least try it.

I tried and tried, but I couldn't get the rear three nuts off the rear manifold, so I really had no choice. I do not know how anyone could get a wrench on the rear two, especially the lower one you can't even see. Maybe if they had been put on yesterday, with a generous amount of boiler nut slime, maybe. But not after they'd been there rusting in for 27 years.

The hanger near the Y-pipe on mine is a rusted mass. I knew it wasn't coming off. I'm pretty sure that when the exhaust rusts through to the point that it has to be replaced, that'll be removed with a saws-all.

FWIW, I didn't pull my engine, but I will next time. IF EVERYTHING goes right, it's a wash between the head or the engine/transmission (I would separate the transfer from the transmission though; no sense in generating more grief than you have to - and you're 3/4 of the way there by the time you remove the front and rear propeller shafts), but if one thing goes wrong, you'll wish you'd pulled the whole mess so you could get at everything.

It's really A LOT easier to clean the top of the block once you can reach it - you can't when it's in the truck. I have a gnome and he couldn't get in there any better than I could (plus, he's a fiend with a scraper - I was biting my tongue the whole time). Another thought: if you have a warped block (you won't know until the head's off - the tolerance is -0.002 in any one spot) how are you going to get it out once you've pulled the head? I considered this before I pulled the head, and made a conscious decision to roll the dice. I got extremely lucky - mine measured -0.001 or less everywhere.

Feel free to PM me if you want to spitball before you start disassembling. I can give you some recommendations on tools, if you don't already have some - recommendations, I mean. You can't borrow my tools.

 

[studawg]

injector connectors often break when disconnecting

 

[rc51kid]

They are available new oem and easy to replace. I did all of mine while it was apart.

Sorry, Maybe that is what you were saying.

injector connectors often break when disconnecting

 

[blinkerfluid]

This is not to argue, but simply learn. If they are all in spec, would you still do it? Why?

Thanks for the info.

even if they are in spec, they would probably be in the outer limits of the clearance after 200k and to fix that problem say six to eighteen months down the line, will cost you whatever the head gasket works costs plus the valve/guides service again.

 

[donemilio21]

even if they are in spec, they would probably be in the outer limits of the clearance after 200k and to fix that problem say six to eighteen months down the line, will cost you whatever the head gasket works costs plus the valve/guides service again.

Mine was in spec per machine shop, but I chose to get it for an extra $200 last month. I had already budgeted for that and have been within my budget up to that point, so it was an easy decision for me.

 

[donemilio21]

Thanks for the extra info. I also saw a "tip" yesterday to not try to disconnect the exhaust manifolds from the y-pipe, just pull them off and tie the exhaust out of the way to the right. Yay or nay?

I cut the pipe off with a sawzall. The bolts were easier to remove off vehicle that way.
But my y-pipe, cats, even the bottom of the manifold is very rusty, have bunch of leaks, and some parts I couldn't even get a weld to hold anymore. Replacing the exhaust as well.

As for your parts list:
I got the front radiator hose kits, and phh kit from wits end. Replaced all the other heater hoses with new, regular hoses.
On top of the items you have listed there, I also chose to replace the header bolts (Beck Arnley 0161024-$73), spark plugs (PK20Tr11) and wires (ngk), fan clutch (FCT-004-$85), fuel injectors (23250-74080-$200), Timing Cover & oil pump and Chain (TCT-073 $246, ITM053-940 $125) and the starter (2800169 -$145). I didn't have to replace these; however, chose to do so simply because either they were easy to do and I would have had to do in 2-3 years anyway, like spark plug, wires, timing chain and fan clutch. The others, because of the sheer amount of work they would take to replace, if they were to fail, and they were all stock (25 years old).

As the work went on I also realized I had to replace the engine mounts (1236117011) , crankshaft pulley and PS pump ( I was at a point that I didn't want to rebuild it to save $60) due to excessive wear.