1FZ-FE Engine Build (4 Viewers)

[mudgudgeon]

It looks like you have way to much trust in that engine stand.

The length and weight of a complete1fz-fe puts a lot of leverage on 2x2 frame with bolted connections.

I braced mine, and propped the front of the block if I was gonna leave it sit for any length of time.
Mine flexed badly with the weight

 

[matthewscruiser]

It looks like you have way to much trust in that engine stand.

The length and weight of a complete1fz-fe puts a lot of leverage on 2x2 frame with bolted connections.

I braced mine, and propped the front of the block if I was gonna leave it sit for any length of time.
Mine flexed badly with the weight

Thanks for the input. This one doesn't flex much with just the shortblock, I was planning on adding a wooden support under the front of the crank before I install the cylinder head.

 

[jaymar]

Thanks for the input. This one doesn't flex much with just the shortblock, I was planning on adding a wooden support under the front of the crank before I install the cylinder head.

Always overbuy on safety equipment: one-ton stand, two-ton crane, two-ton floor jack. Better if you can find 'em. And ten-ton jack stands. True, those who underbuy may not complain, but then it's hard to type with an engine on your chest...

 

[OGBeno]

Good work. It’s nice to see some one doing the work to go through the catalog and engage with the metal correctly.

Good luck!

 

[snowglobe]

Great project!
I’m looking for a complete parts list, too, but am also wondering why people don’t build to the latest spec [Middle East 1fz-fe] with a 105 series head, when building from scratch. Are there legal/CARB issues?

 

[jaymar]

Great project!
I’m looking for a complete parts list, too, but am also wondering why people don’t build to the latest spec [Middle East 1fz-fe] with a 105 series head, when building from scratch. Are there legal/CARB issues?

I suspect it would fail the "visual" inspection. Doesn't matter if the engine is zero emissions, if it doesn't have the same crap on it the manual says should be there, you fail--in CA and those states that have for some lunatic reason adopted its smogocracy. Welcome to hell.

 

[mudgudgeon]

.

Great project!
I’m looking for a complete parts list, too, but am also wondering why people don’t build to the latest spec [Middle East 1fz-fe] with a 105 series head, when building from scratch. Are there legal/CARB issues?

Cost and compicating things further.

Some parts need to be replaced or sourced that otherwise wouldn't.
Head, cam, cam angle sensor, crank sensor, upper oil pan, wiring harness, ECU computer, coil packs, intake manifolds, throttle body, MAF etc etc

Then, you need to figure out ECU/ engine management.

If you are modifying for more power, or turbo installation etc I think it is definitely a good idea, but then, go to aftermarket ecu too.

It just keeps costing more.

Where do you draw the line or just throw an LS engine in

 

[Fj80oregon]

Very nice work and attention to detail! I started a thread and have been slow on it, glad someone is making it happen. I have a handful of the 1k stands and have had zero issues with them after multiple rebuilds. They do get a little bouncy when it’s a fully built 1fz with all the accessories and intake/exhaust manifolds mounted.

 

[jaymar]

Another good hose thread, when you get to that...

1996 FZJ80 Coolant & Heater Hose Part Numbers & Pictures

This is subject to change, but here's what I've come up with so far(updated 7/6/2018): FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations by PNWFJ80 posted Jul 6, 2018 at 11:17 AM FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations by PNWFJ80 posted Jul 6, 2018 at 11:17 AM FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[DaviMH47]

Just finished my engine build only reused the block and crank. Got it in the truck and all hooked up, cranks but won't start

 

[matthewscruiser]

Just finished my engine build only reused the block and crank. Got it in the truck and all hooked up, cranks but won't start

Man. That has to be frustrating. Hang in there, there’s always a reason. I’d bring a friend that’s good at diagnosing for an extra set of ideas and hit the basics of air, fuel, and spark.

 

[DaviMH47]

Man. That has to be frustrating. Hang in there, there’s always a reason. I’d bring a friend that’s good at diagnosing for an extra set of ideas and hit the basics of air, fuel, and spark.

It's super frustrating, I've gone through everything and tonight went and got a compression tester. Only test 2 cylinders so far but #1 is at 94 and #2 is at 62! I have a remanufactured head that the seller said they put new valve seals in and pressure tested but now I'm starting to question it.

 

[matthewscruiser]

09/07/2024. Installed timing chain today! Baby steps.

Crankshaft was rotated so that they keyway is straight down. I just threaded in the new crankshaft bolt (90119-22001) loosely and used a 30mm socket/ratchet wrench to turn the engine by hand.

Installed new crankshaft drive gear (13522-66030), making sure that the flat face goes toward the block.

Installed the new oil pump drive gear (to the right of the crankshaft drive gear) with assembly lube. This is part number 15163-66021.

Installed new chain vibration damper (13561-66010) and torqued bolts to 14 ft-lb per FSM. I used a small amount of loctite 242 here, although not specified from Toyota. I’d just hate for anything in the timing cover to come undone later.

Installed new chain slipper tensioner (13559-66011) and torqued to 51 ft-lb with a 10mm hex wrench per FSM. The slipper moved freely. I did add some lube to the bolt before installing slipper.

 

[matthewscruiser]

Installed new oil jet (13516-66011) and oil jet bolt (13516-66011). FSM specifies to torque to 14 ft-lb. I used a small amount of loctite 242 here like the damper because, again, I have trust issues behind the timing cover

Installed used OEM crankshaft rotor, ensuring the flat face goes toward the block. I didn’t see any reason to replace my used one since it fit tight, was straight, and it’s not really a wear item.

Installed new crankshaft timing sprocket (13521-66020) by lining up with the keyway and gently tapping on either side with a brass drift until fully seated. It really doesn’t take much force at all.

On my work table, I placed the new camshaft timing sprocket (13523-66020) inside the new timing chain (13506-66010), aligning the timing mark on the gear with one of the black/“blight” links on the chain. Then, I carefully put two zip ties on the camshaft sprocket to hold the chain in place while I placed the other black link on the crankshaft timing sprocket inline with its timing mark. Then, I added another zip tie around the slipper/damper to try to keep things together—the combination of these three zip ties keeps the chain tight around the crankshaft timing sprocket. It’d be a bad day if the chain jumped a tooth behind the timing cover while assembling the rest of the engine.

 

[matthewscruiser]

And last, but not least, I installed my new coolant drain (90910-09129) and torqued to 22 ft-lb per the FSM. Then I tightened it a little more so that the drain was on the bottom because that just felt more right to me.

 

[manofthewoods]

And last, but not least, I installed my new coolant drain (90910-09129) and torqued to 22 ft-lb per the FSM. Then I tightened it a little more so that the drain was on the bottom because that just felt more right to me.

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You're doing great.
Step by step. Not really difficult. I did about the same w/loctite. Nothing dramatic, just a drop or two on clean threads.
On bearings I did a thin layer of grease and assembly lube. Not something to be stingy with.
Just a reminder, don't forget to prime the oil pump per the FSM.
Have fun!

 

[matthewscruiser]

09/12/2024. Found some time to install timing cover and the upper/lower oil pans today.

I purchased a new Aisin Timing Cover, part number TCT073. It’s equivalent to Toyota 11310-66020, but the “Toyota” logo is ground off the casting. I installed the new front crankshaft seal, part number 90311-52022, that was supplied in the overhaul gasket set. There is a ridge to stop the seal from being driven too deep. Just tap it in until it bottoms out.

I coated the two new O rings with a light film of rubber grease and installed them inside the cover. Both are included in the factory overhaul gasket set. Both seem to be slightly too large for their respective holes, but they are fine—that keeps them in place during assembly. Small o ring is 96721-24022, the large one is 96761-24042.

As others have pointed out before, the new timing covers (whether Toyota or Aisin) no longer have the grooves for FIPG like the original. That’s fine, the grooves really aren’t necessary. I just made sure NOT to use too much FIPG here. 1/8” will be plenty. Per the FSM, there is a small spot by the small o ring that gets an extra line of FIPG.

I installed the cover on a clean block. You may have to turn the oil pump driveshaft to get the cover to pop on. You need three 30mm bolts (91511-B0830), three 50mm bolts (91511-B0850), one 60mm (91511-B0860), and two nuts (90179-08040). Torque all fasteners to 15 ft-lb.

If you have the drive belt adjusting block, install it where the gold bolt is on my engine. I’m going to put mine on later.

Not pictured here yet: new drive belt idler pulley (16603-66010) installed, torqued to 32 ft-lb per FSM.

 

[matthewscruiser]

Now, for the upper oil pan. I turned the engine upside down on the stand. Step 1 is to make sure you add oil to prime the oil pump per the FSM. Then I placed the square o ring (11328-66020) on the block. It’s included in the overhaul gasket kit.

I thoroughly cleaned the upper oil pan, especially on the FIPG surfaces. I replaced the oil pickup tube to pan gasket (15147-66020) with the one from the overhaul kit, and torqued nuts to 14 ft-lb.

Place 103 FIPG per the FSM. It’s pretty specific here, and the bead is a little larger than 1/8”. I cleaned the block like crazy as well with the same method I used on the rear main seal retainer.

The hardware for the upper oil pan is (x 2 91512-G1025), (x4 90105-10114), (x14 91511-B0825), (x1 91511-B0850), and (x2 90179-08040). All 12mm heads get torqued to 15 ft-lb, and the 14mm heads get torqued to 32 ft-lb. A few are located inside the oil pan, don’t drop them!

 

[matthewscruiser]

Now, for the upper oil pan. I turned the engine upside down on the stand. Step 1 is to make sure you add oil to prime the oil pump per the FSM. Then I placed the square o ring (11328-66020) on the block. It’s included in the overhaul gasket kit.

I thoroughly cleaned the upper oil pan, especially on the FIPG surfaces. I replaced the oil pickup tube to pan gasket (15147-66020) with the one from the overhaul kit, and torqued nuts to 14 ft-lb.

Place 103 FIPG per the FSM. It’s pretty specific here, and the bead is a little larger than 1/8”. I cleaned the block like crazy as well with the same method I used on the rear main seal retainer.

The hardware for the upper oil pan is (x 2 91512-G1025), (x4 90105-10114), (x14 91511-B0825), (x1 91511-B0850), and (x2 90179-08040). All 12mm heads get torqued to 15 ft-lb, and the 14mm heads get torqued to 32 ft-lb. A few are located inside the oil pan, don’t drop them!

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More pics

 

[matthewscruiser]

Lastly, I installed the lower oil pan that I sourced from Rock Auto (it’s just a stamped pan, I think SKP brand will be fine). I used the same procedure as the upper oil pan. I installed the pan bolts (x17 90119-06600) and torqued to 69 !INCH!-lbs. You also need to install the nuts (x2 90179-06222), but I left mine at the house. Oh well, I’ll get them later. The nuts are torqued to 78 !INCH!-lbs



Well, that’s all for today. I’ll be out of town for most of the rest of September, but plan to install the cylinder head first thing in October.