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Body and paint looks clean from the pix. Normal wear of the drivers seat. If the AHC suspension is still working well then that is a steal. If not, replacing it with standard suspension like OME will cost you $1200 in parts alone. Factor also timing belt replacement if not completed yet. If you wrench then it will save you labor cost.
How is the under carriage for rust?[/QUOTE]
How is the under carriage for rust?[/QUOTE]
- Thread starter
- #3
the owner is a detailed specialist and yes the AHC suspension is still working it has a typical midwest rust but none on the body timing belt not known yet i will ask the seller plus i am not familiar with ahc suspension are they common to go bad?
$4500 is a DEAL assuming its not super rusty underneath.
Look at the closeup of the drivers side rear fender. The tell-tale signs of rust rot are clearly evident. Do your due diligence and inspect the entire undercarriage, frame and connection points (mounts, bolts, etc). Not saying this truck is a no-go. Just saying I see a red flag. Having said that, if I was looking for a trail rig, this would be potentially a very good prospect even given the obvious cosmetic issue.
dude has done a ton of maintenance which is great... At 4,500, I bet its got terminal rust/rot. All that being said, 4500 is cheap fun and you could part out for almost that much money.
I'd love to know what the definition of terminal rust is on the 100 series...I bet if you asked ten guys you'd get 10 different answers.
Correct, probably a ton of different definitions. For me, terminal rust is when attachment points are no longer viable and repair costs more than the value of the vehicle. That means shock mounts, brake mounts, etc. If you have to start fixing those, then you're going to go broke. I saw one in Dallas recently that had come from Michigan (15 years). The owner had brought it in to a Land Cruiser specialist there to look at why the parking brake wasn't working and the vehicle "bounced" at the front. Turns out that the mounts for the parking brake were rusted through and they'd have to tap new holes and rebuild the entire unit. Additionally, the mounts for the shocks were so corroded that they would have to be cut and weld in new ones. In the end, the cost of those repairs was in excess of $9k (there was a LOT of additional rust remediation needed). That's terminal in my opinion. I'm not scared of rust on the frame or even on the body (depending on application). What I mean by that is, if I'm going to "wheel" the vehicle, bumps and bruises are irrelevant (I'll likely add more). If I'm going to DD (daily drive) the rig, then I'm more "concerned" about bumps and bruises. Again, opinions will vary.
- Thread starter
- #11
regardless of rust considering its a 1999 year truck 18 years been on the road with that price of 4500 is totally worth it if this truck gives me next 5 years trouble free without major repair than its totally worth thats like $900 a year for 5 years car payment. regardless everything rust will be there. my only problem is withdrawing money as the old lady is making a big deal over a 1999 year truck with 200k miles lol
Those are very good and valid points. Actually hadn't thought about it that way.
I just bought a 98 LX470 with 150+ and my wife wasn't too pleased.....until she drove it. Now she wants one. She couldn't believe (and neither could I) how well a 20 year old vehicle can drive. We alternate driving it and both prefer it over our primary cars ('16 Outback 3.6R and a '12 Outback 2.5).
- Thread starter
- #13
Thanks and thats how i think about money, i just hope my lady will be happy if i really buy this truck and make her drive it lol, but yea also considering the amount of money we waste dining outside buying lottery ticket and all other unnecessary expenditure can be more than likely exceed 4grands in less than 24months