- Thread starter
- #381
They are original seats from a low mileage donor.
1998 HDJ80 with 1HDT - Refresh (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter logicbyondreaso
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- Thread starter
- #382
I ran PennGrade1 SAE30 break in oil for the first 400 miles. Today I changed the filter and refilled with new break in oil that I will run for another 200-400. I will then switch over to synthetic.
This oil has a dark green color when new and it drained somewhat similar.
I cleaned out an open oil drain pan before draining the oil and then ran a strong magnet through it to try and find any metal. None found.
The oil catch pan that I installed under the oil filter is amazing. It keeps the oil from making a mess.
I do need to buy an oil filter wrench/socket tool. I have very large groove joint pliers that I use right now.
This oil has a dark green color when new and it drained somewhat similar.
I cleaned out an open oil drain pan before draining the oil and then ran a strong magnet through it to try and find any metal. None found.
The oil catch pan that I installed under the oil filter is amazing. It keeps the oil from making a mess.
I do need to buy an oil filter wrench/socket tool. I have very large groove joint pliers that I use right now.
Ooo got a PN on that catch pan?
- Thread starter
- #384
When I did the H152 swap, I also tried to modify the injection pump to match a manual configuration. Earlier in the thread I replaced the lever (22701-17590, 22701-17591, or 22701-17592 depending on required angle) and idle up assembly (22305-17140) since there is no kickdown cable to the tranny with the H152. The last part was to replace the lever spring (22728-54010) and install a return spring guide (22728-54010) that is not present with an auto.
Comparing the manual (left) vs auto (right) springs. The spring guide also pictured.
Comparing the manual (left) vs auto (right) springs. The spring guide also pictured.
- Thread starter
- #385
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You also need the correct oil cooler. The little cup below the filter doesn’t mount to all oil coolers.
Cheers
Do you have a bit more detail on that @SNLC? I'd very much like to make this change on my 80 with the 1HZ engine. My old LN106 hilux had a mod you could do where you swapped the oil cooler housing from a Coaster and it made the filter mount vertically from the bottom, which meant no mess. I hate how messy changing the filter is on my 1HZ. Do you have to change out the actual copper cooler element inside to fit the new housing, or is it as simple as putting the new housing on with the bracket?
- Thread starter
- #389
Depends on how you are configured: with or without ACSD.
Look back at my post #124 I put up some photos of the cover I used that did not have the coolant nipple for ACSD.
This part number is 15721-17012
If you want to run ACSD, then you can get cooler part number 15721-17022.
Both of the have the threaded extrusion for the drip pan.
You will retain the cooler inside and only need to swap the housing. The other benefit of this updated design is there are freeze plugs instead of threaded plugs with gaskets.
- Thread starter
- #390
I have made an effort to source the right tachometer for a manual 1HDT but have come up empty. A couple sources potentially had it but there were defects and the sellers were asking more than I wanted. My solution is to keep the A/T ECU but since the clutch pedal took its spot it would need to be moved. I picked up matching connectors and extended the harness by 3' so I can mount the ECU under the driver seat. Same place as the factory alarm box. All the wires were soldered, heat shrunk, and then wrapped in a wire loom. Works just as expected.
During this work I replaced the gear position indicator with a blank to finish off the manual conversion. I did enjoy having the reverse light come on when reversing.
During this work I replaced the gear position indicator with a blank to finish off the manual conversion. I did enjoy having the reverse light come on when reversing.
Where did you get the blank gear shifter indicator?
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- #392
I got it from another cluster I had in my spare box.
thanks i think you just helped me figure out why my tach doesn't work either. powered up it goes to 2500 RPM and stays there ( had the needle off and i may have put it back in the wrong spot) . I have good signal as checked with oscilloscope to the cluster but needle does not move when running. i only have the 1990 diesel wiring diagram and show it going from the sensor to tach but in 1990 there were no electronic controlled transmissions. Probably why my transmission is not shifting right either. Do you know what year they made the change to go though the transmission ECU? I'm guessing it was 93+the tach has 2 red LEDs so it's 95+ any way to know if its an auto or manual tach by looking at it? no part number i can see.
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- Thread starter
- #394
Do you have a photo of the tach faceplate?
I think you just need the earlier style tach to work for you since you have a diesel swap. The wiring for the transmission/ECU and engine would not be in your vehicle unless you swapped that over too.
What tranny are you running and what is it from? What is wrong with it?
I bought that tach without a faceplate i was just going to use the old gas faceplate even though it has the wrong redline. i don't care for the little lights myself, i don't have timing belt odometer or a boost light sensor.
1993 USA gas auto transmission, trans module. Do you think that 1993 auto diesel tach is fed the signal straight from the rpm sensor?
Trans doesn't like to up shift until high rpm even with low load. Setting a fault code, I haven't even checked it yet. The TPS circuit is also suspect as it's very different gas to diesel. I can't wait to get back to it but there is a full parking lot of customer cars right now.
- Thread starter
- #396
The tach you have is likely from a later year diesel 80 like you said. You need one that has a green and red light.
In your case - the signal would be fed from the pump to the tach directly. With this circuit you need the earlier tach.
An alternative, if you want to experiment, is to buy a signal converter and see if it fixes your issue.
Signal converter from Dakota Digital
In your case - the signal would be fed from the pump to the tach directly. With this circuit you need the earlier tach.
An alternative, if you want to experiment, is to buy a signal converter and see if it fixes your issue.
Signal converter from Dakota Digital
