- Thread starter
- #361
A few more photos:
1998 HDJ80 with 1HDT - Refresh (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter logicbyondreaso
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- Thread starter
- #362
I stripped the engine mount guards to bare metal for a fresh coat of paint. Then installed the flywheel, clutch and cover.
- Thread starter
- #363
Painted the engine mount guards and then installed the drivetrain.
I did the installation by myself. Taking my time to slowly inch forward, tilt, lower, and adjust. I used a ratcheting strap that I tied to front axle to slowly move the engine hoist forward. Once the tranny was under the truck I blocked it onto a dolly so I can easily move it around and take some of the weight. Took about 1.5 hours to get it all in.
I did the installation by myself. Taking my time to slowly inch forward, tilt, lower, and adjust. I used a ratcheting strap that I tied to front axle to slowly move the engine hoist forward. Once the tranny was under the truck I blocked it onto a dolly so I can easily move it around and take some of the weight. Took about 1.5 hours to get it all in.
- Thread starter
- #364
Installed new power steering cooler paperclip and high pressure hose. Installed a new radiator (16400-17240) for a manual 80. Added new condenser rubber feet and buttoned up the AC system after replacing the drier and adding required oil to it.
For the crossmember modification I found a company, OTC, that makes a crossbar to convert from auto to manual. It bolts up to the existing holes so you don't need to cut/weld anything. 100% bolt on. I have an extra one that I will throw into the classifieds if anyone is planning to do a manual swap. Very well made.
For the crossmember modification I found a company, OTC, that makes a crossbar to convert from auto to manual. It bolts up to the existing holes so you don't need to cut/weld anything. 100% bolt on. I have an extra one that I will throw into the classifieds if anyone is planning to do a manual swap. Very well made.
- Thread starter
- #365
New driveshafts since the manual will require different length shafts.
A few more photos of the underside. I will wrap up the interior next.
A few more photos of the underside. I will wrap up the interior next.
- Thread starter
- #366
Interior is all back together.
I ended up having to extract the reverse signal wires (2) from the automatic transmission shifter harness connector and the h152 harness to create a new connection. There are other ways to do this but I found this to be the most straight forward using oem connectors and located in the same location as the main connector. The transmission shifter connector is on the LH side of transmission, my connector is gray.
The neutral safety switch is bypassed, or jumped, per the FSM for the manual transmission. Very simple but remember that the truck will start in gear which is normal for the 80.
I took it for a drive and what a difference from the automatic version. increased power and response and much more enjoyable to drive. However, I do have 2 items that I need to work through:
Issue #1.
The installation went together very smoothly and as expected. The one issue I am facing is that the 1st gear and sometimes 2nd is difficult to shift into. Does not matter if the truck is moving or at rest. The other gears feel normal. Sometimes it will go in easy but most often it requires force and feels notchy.
If the engine is off the shifting into all gears is very very smooth.
This is a brand new H152 with all brand new clutch components. I bled the system many times using various methods and have no air bubbles present and performed a bench bleed as well. If I press the clutch pedal into the carpet as much as I can, then it shifts better but not as smooth as expected. To me, it feels like the clutch is not fully disengaging.
Below is a part list under the the 80 series column that I used in the clutch component section. Arrows point to the substituted part number since original was not available. One note, not sure if it matters, I have a brand new short block (11400-17073) installed and a bellhousing from a 100 series (31111-60290).
Since my HDJ80 is slightly an oddball (no airbags, late year 1HDT, and has earlier year components in some places, is it possible that I need a different release bearing such as 31230-60130 or the 31230-36210?
Approximate length of release bearing, end to end.
Terrain Tamer 80 Series Clutch Kit Release Bearing : 58.40mm
Issue #2:
The tachometer does not work. Looking at the wiring diagram the manual transmission tac signal is directly from the pickup via black wire and the brown wire from pickup is grounded to the block. With this wiring modification change made the tachometer still does not work.
The wiring in an automatic transmission differs because the signal and ground from the pickup is sent to the ECT which then sends a signal to the tach.
Looking at the parts diagrams between manual and automatic transmissions for the same year HDJ80 - the tachometer has different part numbers. I suspect the tach differs slightly.
I did find a thread by @TurboDennis Post 46 and 53 where he mentions the same experience with his FT motor. I think he ended up using an earlier year tach to fix the problem. I may have a manual tach from an FT but not sure if it is non-EGR if that matters. @TurboDennis can you shed some light?
For the time being I can drive without the tach or leave the ECT connected.
I ended up having to extract the reverse signal wires (2) from the automatic transmission shifter harness connector and the h152 harness to create a new connection. There are other ways to do this but I found this to be the most straight forward using oem connectors and located in the same location as the main connector. The transmission shifter connector is on the LH side of transmission, my connector is gray.
The neutral safety switch is bypassed, or jumped, per the FSM for the manual transmission. Very simple but remember that the truck will start in gear which is normal for the 80.
I took it for a drive and what a difference from the automatic version. increased power and response and much more enjoyable to drive. However, I do have 2 items that I need to work through:
Issue #1.
The installation went together very smoothly and as expected. The one issue I am facing is that the 1st gear and sometimes 2nd is difficult to shift into. Does not matter if the truck is moving or at rest. The other gears feel normal. Sometimes it will go in easy but most often it requires force and feels notchy.
If the engine is off the shifting into all gears is very very smooth.
This is a brand new H152 with all brand new clutch components. I bled the system many times using various methods and have no air bubbles present and performed a bench bleed as well. If I press the clutch pedal into the carpet as much as I can, then it shifts better but not as smooth as expected. To me, it feels like the clutch is not fully disengaging.
Below is a part list under the the 80 series column that I used in the clutch component section. Arrows point to the substituted part number since original was not available. One note, not sure if it matters, I have a brand new short block (11400-17073) installed and a bellhousing from a 100 series (31111-60290).
Since my HDJ80 is slightly an oddball (no airbags, late year 1HDT, and has earlier year components in some places, is it possible that I need a different release bearing such as 31230-60130 or the 31230-36210?
Approximate length of release bearing, end to end.
| 31230-36210 (100 series with 1HD motor/H151 M/T) | 58.50mm |
| 31230-60181 -> this is what is installed in my HDJ80 (80 series / 1HD / H151, 1994 - 2001) | 53mm |
| 31230-60120 | 64mm |
| 31230-60130 (80 series with 1HD motor/H151 M/T, 1990 - 1993) | 58.40mm |
| 80 Series | 100 series | |
| Year | Dec-97 | Jun-05 |
| Short Block | 11400-17072 -> 11400-17073 | 11400-17073 |
| Bellhousing | 31111-60210 -> 31111-60290 | 31111-60290 |
| Flywheel | 13405-17020 | 13405-17020 |
| Input Shaft Bearing | 90363-15017 | 90363-15017 |
| Clutch | 31250-60231 ->31250-603401 | 31250-60340/1 |
| Clutch Cover (pressure plate) | 31210-60160 -> 31210-60162 | 31210-36240 |
| Release Bearing | 31230-60180 ->31230-60181 | 31230-36210 |
| Clutch Release Fork | 31204-36110 | 31204-36142 |
| Fork Support | 31236-35030 | 31236-36060 |
| Slave Cylinder | 31470-60180 | 31470-60270 |
| Master Cylinder | 31410-60372 | 31410-60610 |
Issue #2:
The tachometer does not work. Looking at the wiring diagram the manual transmission tac signal is directly from the pickup via black wire and the brown wire from pickup is grounded to the block. With this wiring modification change made the tachometer still does not work.
The wiring in an automatic transmission differs because the signal and ground from the pickup is sent to the ECT which then sends a signal to the tach.
Looking at the parts diagrams between manual and automatic transmissions for the same year HDJ80 - the tachometer has different part numbers. I suspect the tach differs slightly.
I did find a thread by @TurboDennis Post 46 and 53 where he mentions the same experience with his FT motor. I think he ended up using an earlier year tach to fix the problem. I may have a manual tach from an FT but not sure if it is non-EGR if that matters. @TurboDennis can you shed some light?
For the time being I can drive without the tach or leave the ECT connected.
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- Thread starter
- #367
Photos of the various release bearings. A couple images borrowed from @ikarus and @gnarlynick2072 and @TurboDennis and @CaptBeardilocks
The 31230-60181 bearing the below photo maybe incorrectly labeled. Looking at fork locking spring it does not match that of a 60181 bearing. This looks like a bearing from the 100 series such as 31230-36210
Left: 31230-60181 Right: From Terrain Tamer HD Kit 6874
The 31230-60181 bearing the below photo maybe incorrectly labeled. Looking at fork locking spring it does not match that of a 60181 bearing. This looks like a bearing from the 100 series such as 31230-36210
Left: 31230-60181 Right: From Terrain Tamer HD Kit 6874
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Sorry, i didn't get a chance to read through your entire thread so im not sure exactly what engine/wiring/tachometer combination you're using, but in general Toyota used 2 types of tachs on 1H*'s - ones that received the signal directly from the IP sensor, and the other type which received the signal after it's been "processed" by some sort of computer. This would've been either the "emissions ECU" on 1HD-FT, or the auto tranny ECU on 1HD-FT's and SOME 1HD-T's. If you use a tachometer that "expects" a processed signal, then it's not gonna work at all with a direct signal. In case of 1HD-FT, the only tachometer that will work with a direct signal is the one that came on NON-EGR, manual transmission trucks. MOST 1HD-T tachs also work with an unprocessed signal, but i recall from my research on the topic that there were, indeed, some 1HDT's in some odd markets that also used the auto tranny ECU to process the tach signal... I believe that all 1HZ's used the direct signal from IP sensor.
In my truck, i ended up running the "emissions ECU" solely for the purpose of processing the tach signal, because i could not source the correct non-EGR, non-auto tach from a 1HD-FT. I do have a BNIB 1HZ tach, which i might switch to at some point to get rid of the EGR ECU. I've also been looking (albeit not super actively) for an electronics guy who could analyze compare the signals coming from the IP sensor, to the processed signal which is output by the EGR-ECU and tell me how exactly how they differ. This job is unfortunately above my paygrade. Perhaps its possible to build a simple device to process the signal, so that it would be compatible with the tachs that expect it.
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- Thread starter
- #369
@TurboDennis - Yes, my HDJ80 is the later year with 1HDT and has the ECT as part of the tachometer circuit. I too found the same as you did - it wont run without the ECT computer. My gauge cluster also looks just like a FT one so I am in the same boat as you - find a non EGR/manual FT tachometer or just leave the ECT computer tucked away.
- Thread starter
- #370
I made more bleeding efforts with no change in shifting. I have also adjusted the master cylinder clevis to max position and that made no change. The master cylinder now bottoms out before the pedal reaches the floor but I do not get any shifting improvement. Again, it shifts very smooth with the motor off.
I then started to look at various models and part combinations with the H151 transmission. This included the 1FZFE. What stood out to me was how the release bearing (31230-60180), for my year HDJ80, was the same as the later year 1FZ yet the clutch cover, clutch, and flywheel were all different.
Only the earlier year 1990 - 1994 HDJ80 had a different release bearing (31230-60130) and pressure plate. As you can see in my previous posts, 366 and 367, the difference in length between the two release bearings is about 5.5mm. Enough to fully disengage the clutch?
I am not the only one with the "clutch not fully disengaging" comment after a manual swap. I have read a number of these and not sure there was a single fix besides adjusting the master cylinder rod or more bleeding. In some cases it was just left as-is.
It is also interesting to note that the 100 series, with a 1HD/H151 transmission has a release bearing of the same length, 58.5, as the 31230-60130 release bearing from earlier year 1HDT/H151 80's. Yes, the fork and slave/master cylinders are different but it may not be a coincidence to have same length bearing for same drivetrain.
I then started to have suspicions that the 1FZ and 1HD bellhousings are different lengths and hence why they have different size bearings. Someone with a 1FZFE bellhousing from a manual measured a length of 190mm. The 1HD housing measures roughly 198mm. A 8mm +/-2mm difference! The length to bearing ratio may not be 1:1 but this firms up my thought about the bearing needing to be longer for my HDJ80 than what I have installed.
**Note** - I had another source measure a 1FZ bellhousing that had a different measurement. About 200mm.
I think the correct combination for my setup is below. The only items I need to change from current setup is the release bearing and pressure plate. Though photos between the 31210-60120 and 31210-60162 pressure plates look very similar with the only visible difference being a white painted ring where the release bearing makes contact on the 31210-60162 pressure plate. I installed the Aisin variant CTX-109 but it did not have any white painted circles on the contact surface while other online sources do show the Aisin with this white marking. Did I maybe get shipped a wrong pressure plate?
My installed pressure plate does not have this white painted ring. It is marked though as CTX-109
I then started to look at various models and part combinations with the H151 transmission. This included the 1FZFE. What stood out to me was how the release bearing (31230-60180), for my year HDJ80, was the same as the later year 1FZ yet the clutch cover, clutch, and flywheel were all different.
Only the earlier year 1990 - 1994 HDJ80 had a different release bearing (31230-60130) and pressure plate. As you can see in my previous posts, 366 and 367, the difference in length between the two release bearings is about 5.5mm. Enough to fully disengage the clutch?
I am not the only one with the "clutch not fully disengaging" comment after a manual swap. I have read a number of these and not sure there was a single fix besides adjusting the master cylinder rod or more bleeding. In some cases it was just left as-is.
It is also interesting to note that the 100 series, with a 1HD/H151 transmission has a release bearing of the same length, 58.5, as the 31230-60130 release bearing from earlier year 1HDT/H151 80's. Yes, the fork and slave/master cylinders are different but it may not be a coincidence to have same length bearing for same drivetrain.
I then started to have suspicions that the 1FZ and 1HD bellhousings are different lengths and hence why they have different size bearings. Someone with a 1FZFE bellhousing from a manual measured a length of 190mm. The 1HD housing measures roughly 198mm. A 8mm +/-2mm difference! The length to bearing ratio may not be 1:1 but this firms up my thought about the bearing needing to be longer for my HDJ80 than what I have installed.
**Note** - I had another source measure a 1FZ bellhousing that had a different measurement. About 200mm.
I think the correct combination for my setup is below. The only items I need to change from current setup is the release bearing and pressure plate. Though photos between the 31210-60120 and 31210-60162 pressure plates look very similar with the only visible difference being a white painted ring where the release bearing makes contact on the 31210-60162 pressure plate. I installed the Aisin variant CTX-109 but it did not have any white painted circles on the contact surface while other online sources do show the Aisin with this white marking. Did I maybe get shipped a wrong pressure plate?
| 80 Series | |
| Year | Dec-97 |
| Short Block | 11400-17072 |
| Bellhousing | 31111-60210 |
| Flywheel | 13405-17020 |
| Input Shaft Bearing | 90363-15017 |
| Clutch | 31250-60231 |
| Clutch Cover (pressure plate) | 31210-60120 |
| Release Bearing | 31230-60130 |
| Clutch Release Fork | 31204-36110 |
| Fork Support | 31236-35030 |
| Slave Cylinder | 31470-60180 |
| Master Cylinder | 31410-60372 |
My installed pressure plate does not have this white painted ring. It is marked though as CTX-109
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FMC80
SILVER Star
There is always so much good tech in your threads! I hope your research proves fruitful and you solve this; well done!
- Thread starter
- #372
While I wait for the release bearing to arrive I dove into replacing the clear rear glass with oem tinted glass, cleaning and greasing the window motors, and replacing all the rubber seals on the door.
The motor commutator had carbon build up from the brushes. I took a fine scotch brite pad to remove it before cleaning with an electrical contact cleaner.
I also cleaned out old grease and lubricated with toyota body grease. After assembly, I tested the motors and they move the window very quickly compared to before.
The motor commutator had carbon build up from the brushes. I took a fine scotch brite pad to remove it before cleaning with an electrical contact cleaner.
I also cleaned out old grease and lubricated with toyota body grease. After assembly, I tested the motors and they move the window very quickly compared to before.
- Thread starter
- #373
Got the first window and all new seals installed. Also replaced the door check (keeps the door open in various positions), door seal, speaker with an OEM one that I had from a previous project, and finally the door card to match cloth interior.
I then began to work on the 3rd row windows. The rubber was very old and starting to crack. They did not slide too well either. I am replacing them with tinted versions as well.
I then began to work on the 3rd row windows. The rubber was very old and starting to crack. They did not slide too well either. I am replacing them with tinted versions as well.
- Thread starter
- #374
Thank you to @ikarus for the photos!
Here is a comparison of the Terrain Tamer heavy duty clutch vs the OEM 31210-60162 pressure plates.
There is a 4mm difference between the two with the OEM being taller.
I have an OEM 31210-60122 (superseded from 31210-60120) on order to compare it to these 2.
Here is a comparison of the Terrain Tamer heavy duty clutch vs the OEM 31210-60162 pressure plates.
There is a 4mm difference between the two with the OEM being taller.
I have an OEM 31210-60122 (superseded from 31210-60120) on order to compare it to these 2.
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- Thread starter
- #375
Looking at the parts catalog for a 100 series with a 1HDT and manual transmission I was curious why the release bearing, 31230-36210, was taller than the release bearing from an 80 series (31230-60181). The 100 series does have a different set of part numbers for the clutch, pressure plate, release bearing, fork, pivot support, slave and master cylinders. The master and slave cylinders I can understand because of different pedals and hydraulic line routing but was not sure why the change to other parts. Just updated over time for the newer generation? The pressure plate and clutch look very similar if not the same as those from an 80 series.
Anyway, I had a 100 series release bearing, fork, and fork support on hand. I decided to see what difference there was in release bearing stroke between the two setup: 80 series vs 100 series. For this test the slave cylinder will make approximately the same stroke length +/- 1mm.
I previously measured (post 366) the height of each release bearing. The 100 series bearing 36210 was 5.5mm taller than the 80 series bearing 60181.
I installed both setups with the transmission removed from the engine and using a caliper I measured how much the release bearing traveled relative to the end of the input shaft. The more important measurement was the distance from end of input shaft at full extension.
80 series
Stroke length: 38.2mm
Distance from input shaft tip at max extension: 75mm
100 series
Stroke length: 38.0mm
Distance from input shaft tip at max extension: 65mm
As you can see the stroke of both bearings is the same but the 100 series bearing, which is only 5.5mm taller, traveled 10mm further at full extension. This is all with the slave cylinder extending the same amount. The fork support location is the key to why the travel is greater than the bearing height.
From this information it seems like the 100 series fork and release bearing would benefit my setup and release the the clutch fully.
Once the earlier year 1HDT release bearing part number 31230-60130 arrives I will conduct the same to see how it compares.
I did my best to grab a photo while measuring so the calipers may not be aligned correctly in the photo.
Anyway, I had a 100 series release bearing, fork, and fork support on hand. I decided to see what difference there was in release bearing stroke between the two setup: 80 series vs 100 series. For this test the slave cylinder will make approximately the same stroke length +/- 1mm.
I previously measured (post 366) the height of each release bearing. The 100 series bearing 36210 was 5.5mm taller than the 80 series bearing 60181.
I installed both setups with the transmission removed from the engine and using a caliper I measured how much the release bearing traveled relative to the end of the input shaft. The more important measurement was the distance from end of input shaft at full extension.
80 series
Stroke length: 38.2mm
Distance from input shaft tip at max extension: 75mm
100 series
Stroke length: 38.0mm
Distance from input shaft tip at max extension: 65mm
As you can see the stroke of both bearings is the same but the 100 series bearing, which is only 5.5mm taller, traveled 10mm further at full extension. This is all with the slave cylinder extending the same amount. The fork support location is the key to why the travel is greater than the bearing height.
From this information it seems like the 100 series fork and release bearing would benefit my setup and release the the clutch fully.
Once the earlier year 1HDT release bearing part number 31230-60130 arrives I will conduct the same to see how it compares.
I did my best to grab a photo while measuring so the calipers may not be aligned correctly in the photo.
- Thread starter
- #376
Everything is back together and works just as designed. Gears are extremely smooth and very easy to engage. It feels like they get "pulled in" when light pressure is applied to the selected gear.
After everything was put together and I checked for fluids and leaks I loaded it up with about 1,200 lbs of weight to take it on a break-in ride through the hills. The intent here is to seat the new rings. With the @Lutz Auto multi-gauge I was able to monitor EGT and boost to make sure I am pushing it hard. I drove it like I stole it for 2 hours non-stop.
A fresh diesel motor and manual transmission are a perfect pairing to this vehicle. It pulls very hard and does not stop. Even with the 1,200 lbs load that is barely noticed. Control is also improved by proper gear selection and is very noticeable when driving through windy hilly roads. I would recommend a manual conversion to anyone who is interested in doing one.
Here is my final configuration list of clutch parts. Everything is from a 100 series with a 1HD with exception of master and slave cylinders. You can also install the early year 80 series part list to get the same result.
I ended up comparing pressure plates and release bearings between early and late year 80 series as well as a 100 series with 1HD engine.
The early year 80 series and 100 series parts were exactly the same by measurements. One difference was in the release bearing clip that attaches to the fork but thats because the fork changed design. However, these clips are removable and can be swapped from one to the other even though they look different. So if you need a bearing compare prices between the 100 series and 80 series and then swap over your clip to fit your fork.
Once the pressure plate is bolted up the "finger" get pulled in and are essentially flat until they are pressed in by the release bearing to disengage the clutch.
After everything was put together and I checked for fluids and leaks I loaded it up with about 1,200 lbs of weight to take it on a break-in ride through the hills. The intent here is to seat the new rings. With the @Lutz Auto multi-gauge I was able to monitor EGT and boost to make sure I am pushing it hard. I drove it like I stole it for 2 hours non-stop.
A fresh diesel motor and manual transmission are a perfect pairing to this vehicle. It pulls very hard and does not stop. Even with the 1,200 lbs load that is barely noticed. Control is also improved by proper gear selection and is very noticeable when driving through windy hilly roads. I would recommend a manual conversion to anyone who is interested in doing one.
Here is my final configuration list of clutch parts. Everything is from a 100 series with a 1HD with exception of master and slave cylinders. You can also install the early year 80 series part list to get the same result.
| Component | Part # |
| Short Block | 11400-17073 |
| Bellhousing | 31111-60290 |
| Flywheel | 13405-17020 |
| Input Shaft Bearing | 90363-15017 |
| Clutch | 31250-60391 |
| Clutch Cover (pressure plate) | 31210-36320 |
| Release Bearing | 31230-36210 |
| Clutch Release Fork | 31204-36142 |
| Fork Support | 31236-36060 |
| Slave Cylinder | 31470-60180 |
| Master Cylinder | 31410-60372 |
I ended up comparing pressure plates and release bearings between early and late year 80 series as well as a 100 series with 1HD engine.
The early year 80 series and 100 series parts were exactly the same by measurements. One difference was in the release bearing clip that attaches to the fork but thats because the fork changed design. However, these clips are removable and can be swapped from one to the other even though they look different. So if you need a bearing compare prices between the 100 series and 80 series and then swap over your clip to fit your fork.
Once the pressure plate is bolted up the "finger" get pulled in and are essentially flat until they are pressed in by the release bearing to disengage the clutch.
- Thread starter
- #377
I ended up finding the correct clutch pedal that is used with cruise control. It has a place to screw in a sensor instead of the stop screw. The sensor does not fit into a pedal that has a stop screw because the sensor is a larger diameter. You could drill/tap to the right size.
I stripped the pedal, powder coated it, and rebuilt with all new hardware. Just like new!
I stripped the pedal, powder coated it, and rebuilt with all new hardware. Just like new!
- Thread starter
- #378
We all get distracted and make mistakes.... well here is my story:
When I finished the engine work I mated the transmission to the engine in the garage and then installed them together. Once everything was installed and I took it for the first drive. I pulled over about 5 miles down the road to check for leaks and noticed transmission fluid started to flow from the bell housing. No fluid trail behind the vehicle so it just started to happen or something else was going on. I turned the engine off and got towed back to the shop.
I started to think about what I could have done wrong and then it came to me - when I was swapping over the input shaft to the H152 I had some friends over. While distracted in conversation I forgot to install the input shaft seal that sits behind the retainer. To confirm this - I went and found the seal sitting in the parts bin on my bench.
From memory of this drive, even though it was 5 miles long, the shifting was not very smooth. I recall a notchy feeling into 1st and maybe 2nd gear.
An hour later I dropped the transmission and removed the retainer to confirm the seal was not there and that was the problem. It was not there as expected!
So why did the fluid only run out when I pulled over? I think the normal level is below the seal level and while driving the fluid is distributed throughout. When I pulled over the inertia, fluid expansion, and likely flow path caused it to start flowing out of the input shaft seal that was missing. About 2 qts spilled out before it stopped flowing.
Installation of a new seal and FIPG does not take long but getting the transmission mated to the engine from underneath takes precision. It took me a few attempts to get it lined up and close enough to use bolts to pull it in.
Well...... I don't think the input shaft splines lined up correctly with the clutch and tightening the M12 bolts caused the clutch to be deformed as seen in the photo below. The M12 bolts are fine thread so the mechanical advantage is high meaning that it does not take a lot of input force to output a lot of force if that makes sense. This means that before I knew something was wrong there was damage being done. At that time I did not know anything was being damaged so i backed off the bolts and adjusted my approach and it all went together smoothly after that.
Transmission fluid was topped off and I took it out for a drive. This time the drive was much longer with no fluid lost. However, the shifting was not as expected and that is when I got into other threads that mentioned the same. I then started to look into reasoning and hence why the above posts were generated.
In conclusion - I am not 100% positive that my research is entirely valid just because of this one event but because others who have swapped over to a manual mentioned poor shifting and not full disengagement of the clutch I feel that there is something to say. It is odd that Toyota used same dimension parts for early year 1HD/H151 80 series and 100 series but changed the for the late year 80 series. It is also interesting to note that when buying Terrain Tamer parts you end up with the same dimensions as the early 80 and 100 series parts that have no complaints from users.
My recommendation for anyone who is doing this swap is to use the 100 series or early 80 series parts I listed above. I may be wrong but from what I measured, compared, and read this is the proven selection that works. If you want to do this one time then choose one of those two options. Again - I am not saying Toyota did anything wrong as it could have been induced by my own mistake but there are other factors that suggest there is something off.
When I finished the engine work I mated the transmission to the engine in the garage and then installed them together. Once everything was installed and I took it for the first drive. I pulled over about 5 miles down the road to check for leaks and noticed transmission fluid started to flow from the bell housing. No fluid trail behind the vehicle so it just started to happen or something else was going on. I turned the engine off and got towed back to the shop.
I started to think about what I could have done wrong and then it came to me - when I was swapping over the input shaft to the H152 I had some friends over. While distracted in conversation I forgot to install the input shaft seal that sits behind the retainer. To confirm this - I went and found the seal sitting in the parts bin on my bench.
From memory of this drive, even though it was 5 miles long, the shifting was not very smooth. I recall a notchy feeling into 1st and maybe 2nd gear.
An hour later I dropped the transmission and removed the retainer to confirm the seal was not there and that was the problem. It was not there as expected!
So why did the fluid only run out when I pulled over? I think the normal level is below the seal level and while driving the fluid is distributed throughout. When I pulled over the inertia, fluid expansion, and likely flow path caused it to start flowing out of the input shaft seal that was missing. About 2 qts spilled out before it stopped flowing.
Installation of a new seal and FIPG does not take long but getting the transmission mated to the engine from underneath takes precision. It took me a few attempts to get it lined up and close enough to use bolts to pull it in.
Well...... I don't think the input shaft splines lined up correctly with the clutch and tightening the M12 bolts caused the clutch to be deformed as seen in the photo below. The M12 bolts are fine thread so the mechanical advantage is high meaning that it does not take a lot of input force to output a lot of force if that makes sense. This means that before I knew something was wrong there was damage being done. At that time I did not know anything was being damaged so i backed off the bolts and adjusted my approach and it all went together smoothly after that.
Transmission fluid was topped off and I took it out for a drive. This time the drive was much longer with no fluid lost. However, the shifting was not as expected and that is when I got into other threads that mentioned the same. I then started to look into reasoning and hence why the above posts were generated.
In conclusion - I am not 100% positive that my research is entirely valid just because of this one event but because others who have swapped over to a manual mentioned poor shifting and not full disengagement of the clutch I feel that there is something to say. It is odd that Toyota used same dimension parts for early year 1HD/H151 80 series and 100 series but changed the for the late year 80 series. It is also interesting to note that when buying Terrain Tamer parts you end up with the same dimensions as the early 80 and 100 series parts that have no complaints from users.
My recommendation for anyone who is doing this swap is to use the 100 series or early 80 series parts I listed above. I may be wrong but from what I measured, compared, and read this is the proven selection that works. If you want to do this one time then choose one of those two options. Again - I am not saying Toyota did anything wrong as it could have been induced by my own mistake but there are other factors that suggest there is something off.
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- #379
I bench bled the master cylinder again while the clutch pedal was out. Very straight forward process. Fluid has not been added to the reservoir in the photo. Once added, the tube is submerged and the plunger is stroked until no more air bubbles are visible.
To ensure the transmission lines up correct this time around without destroying a clutch I used my inspection camera and guide pins to be very precise with the installation. I used threaded rod in 4 bolt holes and my camera to verify the splines line up before mating them together. With this method I was able to push the transmission to mate it with the engine instead of any bolts/nuts.
To finish my tinted window swap I installed new gaskets and seals into new frames. The forward part of both windows frames has little plastic flappers, 62269-90K01, that are only installed on the forward 3 holes. These are used as check valves to prevent water entry into the cabin. This is because the front 3 holes have access to the interior while the rear hole are exposed to the exterior on both ends.
To ensure the transmission lines up correct this time around without destroying a clutch I used my inspection camera and guide pins to be very precise with the installation. I used threaded rod in 4 bolt holes and my camera to verify the splines line up before mating them together. With this method I was able to push the transmission to mate it with the engine instead of any bolts/nuts.
To finish my tinted window swap I installed new gaskets and seals into new frames. The forward part of both windows frames has little plastic flappers, 62269-90K01, that are only installed on the forward 3 holes. These are used as check valves to prevent water entry into the cabin. This is because the front 3 holes have access to the interior while the rear hole are exposed to the exterior on both ends.
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The interior looks amazing, did you use OEM seat covers?
