- Thread starter
- #361
A few more photos:
1998 HDJ80 with 1HDT - Refresh (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter logicbyondreaso
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- Thread starter
- #362
I stripped the engine mount guards to bare metal for a fresh coat of paint. Then installed the flywheel, clutch and cover.
- Thread starter
- #363
Painted the engine mount guards and then installed the drivetrain.
I did the installation by myself. Taking my time to slowly inch forward, tilt, lower, and adjust. I used a ratcheting strap that I tied to front axle to slowly move the engine hoist forward. Once the tranny was under the truck I blocked it onto a dolly so I can easily move it around and take some of the weight. Took about 1.5 hours to get it all in.
I did the installation by myself. Taking my time to slowly inch forward, tilt, lower, and adjust. I used a ratcheting strap that I tied to front axle to slowly move the engine hoist forward. Once the tranny was under the truck I blocked it onto a dolly so I can easily move it around and take some of the weight. Took about 1.5 hours to get it all in.
- Thread starter
- #364
Installed new power steering cooler paperclip and high pressure hose. Installed a new radiator (16400-17240) for a manual 80. Added new condenser rubber feet and buttoned up the AC system after replacing the drier and adding required oil to it.
For the crossmember modification I found a company, OTC, that makes a crossbar to convert from auto to manual. It bolts up to the existing holes so you don't need to cut/weld anything. 100% bolt on. I have an extra one that I will throw into the classifieds if anyone is planning to do a manual swap. Very well made.
For the crossmember modification I found a company, OTC, that makes a crossbar to convert from auto to manual. It bolts up to the existing holes so you don't need to cut/weld anything. 100% bolt on. I have an extra one that I will throw into the classifieds if anyone is planning to do a manual swap. Very well made.
- Thread starter
- #365
New driveshafts since the manual will require different length shafts.
A few more photos of the underside. I will wrap up the interior next.
A few more photos of the underside. I will wrap up the interior next.
- Thread starter
- #366
Interior is all back together.
I ended up having to extract the reverse signal wires (2) from the automatic transmission shifter harness connector and the h152 harness to create a new connection. There are other ways to do this but I found this to be the most straight forward using oem connectors and located in the same location as the main connector. The transmission shifter connector is on the LH side of transmission, my connector is gray.
The neutral safety switch is bypassed, or jumped, per the FSM for the manual transmission. Very simple but remember that the truck will start in gear which is normal for the 80.
I took it for a drive and what a difference from the automatic version. increased power and response and much more enjoyable to drive. However, I do have 2 items that I need to work through:
Issue #1.
The installation went together very smoothly and as expected. The one issue I am facing is that the 1st gear and sometimes 2nd is difficult to shift into. Does not matter if the truck is moving or at rest. The other gears feel normal. Sometimes it will go in easy but most often it requires force and feels notchy.
If the engine is off the shifting into all gears is very very smooth.
This is a brand new H152 with all brand new clutch components. I bled the system many times using various methods and have no air bubbles present and performed a bench bleed as well. If I press the clutch pedal into the carpet as much as I can, then it shifts better but not as smooth as expected. To me, it feels like the clutch is not fully disengaging.
Below is a part list under the the 80 series column that I used in the clutch component section. Arrows point to the substituted part number since original was not available. One note, not sure if it matters, I have a brand new short block (11400-17073) installed and a bellhousing from a 100 series (31111-60290).
Since my HDJ80 is slightly an oddball (no airbags, late year 1HDT, and has earlier year components in some places, is it possible that I need a different release bearing such as 31230-60130 or the 31230-36210?
Approximate length of release bearing, end to end.
Terrain Tamer 80 Series Clutch Kit Release Bearing : 58.40mm
Issue #2:
The tachometer does not work. Looking at the wiring diagram the manual transmission tac signal is directly from the pickup via black wire and the brown wire from pickup is grounded to the block. With this wiring modification change made the tachometer still does not work.
The wiring in an automatic transmission differs because the signal and ground from the pickup is sent to the ECT which then sends a signal to the tach.
Looking at the parts diagrams between manual and automatic transmissions for the same year HDJ80 - the tachometer has different part numbers. I suspect the tach differs slightly.
I did find a thread by @TurboDennis Post 46 and 53 where he mentions the same experience with his FT motor. I think he ended up using an earlier year tach to fix the problem. I may have a manual tach from an FT but not sure if it is non-EGR if that matters. @TurboDennis can you shed some light?
For the time being I can drive without the tach or leave the ECT connected.
I ended up having to extract the reverse signal wires (2) from the automatic transmission shifter harness connector and the h152 harness to create a new connection. There are other ways to do this but I found this to be the most straight forward using oem connectors and located in the same location as the main connector. The transmission shifter connector is on the LH side of transmission, my connector is gray.
The neutral safety switch is bypassed, or jumped, per the FSM for the manual transmission. Very simple but remember that the truck will start in gear which is normal for the 80.
I took it for a drive and what a difference from the automatic version. increased power and response and much more enjoyable to drive. However, I do have 2 items that I need to work through:
Issue #1.
The installation went together very smoothly and as expected. The one issue I am facing is that the 1st gear and sometimes 2nd is difficult to shift into. Does not matter if the truck is moving or at rest. The other gears feel normal. Sometimes it will go in easy but most often it requires force and feels notchy.
If the engine is off the shifting into all gears is very very smooth.
This is a brand new H152 with all brand new clutch components. I bled the system many times using various methods and have no air bubbles present and performed a bench bleed as well. If I press the clutch pedal into the carpet as much as I can, then it shifts better but not as smooth as expected. To me, it feels like the clutch is not fully disengaging.
Below is a part list under the the 80 series column that I used in the clutch component section. Arrows point to the substituted part number since original was not available. One note, not sure if it matters, I have a brand new short block (11400-17073) installed and a bellhousing from a 100 series (31111-60290).
Since my HDJ80 is slightly an oddball (no airbags, late year 1HDT, and has earlier year components in some places, is it possible that I need a different release bearing such as 31230-60130 or the 31230-36210?
Approximate length of release bearing, end to end.
| 31230-36210 (100 series with 1HD motor/H151 M/T) | 58.50mm |
| 31230-60181 -> this is what is installed in my HDJ80 (80 series / 1HD / H151, 1994 - 2001) | 53mm |
| 31230-60120 | 64mm |
| 31230-60130 (80 series with 1HD motor/H151 M/T, 1990 - 1993) | 58.40mm |
| 80 Series | 100 series | |
| Year | Dec-97 | Jun-05 |
| Short Block | 11400-17072 -> 11400-17073 | 11400-17073 |
| Bellhousing | 31111-60210 -> 31111-60290 | 31111-60290 |
| Flywheel | 13405-17020 | 13405-17020 |
| Input Shaft Bearing | 90363-15017 | 90363-15017 |
| Clutch | 31250-60231 ->31250-603401 | 31250-60340/1 |
| Clutch Cover (pressure plate) | 31210-60160 -> 31210-60162 | 31210-36240 |
| Release Bearing | 31230-60180 ->31230-60181 | 31230-36210 |
| Clutch Release Fork | 31204-36110 | 31204-36142 |
| Fork Support | 31236-35030 | 31236-36060 |
| Slave Cylinder | 31470-60180 | 31470-60270 |
| Master Cylinder | 31410-60372 | 31410-60610 |
Issue #2:
The tachometer does not work. Looking at the wiring diagram the manual transmission tac signal is directly from the pickup via black wire and the brown wire from pickup is grounded to the block. With this wiring modification change made the tachometer still does not work.
The wiring in an automatic transmission differs because the signal and ground from the pickup is sent to the ECT which then sends a signal to the tach.
Looking at the parts diagrams between manual and automatic transmissions for the same year HDJ80 - the tachometer has different part numbers. I suspect the tach differs slightly.
I did find a thread by @TurboDennis Post 46 and 53 where he mentions the same experience with his FT motor. I think he ended up using an earlier year tach to fix the problem. I may have a manual tach from an FT but not sure if it is non-EGR if that matters. @TurboDennis can you shed some light?
For the time being I can drive without the tach or leave the ECT connected.
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- Thread starter
- #367
Photos of the various release bearings. A couple images borrowed from @ikarus and @gnarlynick2072 and @TurboDennis and @CaptBeardilocks
The 31230-60181 bearing the below photo maybe incorrectly labeled. Looking at fork locking spring it does not match that of a 60181 bearing. This looks like a bearing from the 100 series such as 31230-36210
Left: 31230-60181 Right: From Terrain Tamer HD Kit 6874
The 31230-60181 bearing the below photo maybe incorrectly labeled. Looking at fork locking spring it does not match that of a 60181 bearing. This looks like a bearing from the 100 series such as 31230-36210
Left: 31230-60181 Right: From Terrain Tamer HD Kit 6874
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TurboDennis
SILVER Star
Sorry, i didn't get a chance to read through your entire thread so im not sure exactly what engine/wiring/tachometer combination you're using, but in general Toyota used 2 types of tachs on 1H*'s - ones that received the signal directly from the IP sensor, and the other type which received the signal after it's been "processed" by some sort of computer. This would've been either the "emissions ECU" on 1HD-FT, or the auto tranny ECU on 1HD-FT's and SOME 1HD-T's. If you use a tachometer that "expects" a processed signal, then it's not gonna work at all with a direct signal. In case of 1HD-FT, the only tachometer that will work with a direct signal is the one that came on NON-EGR, manual transmission trucks. MOST 1HD-T tachs also work with an unprocessed signal, but i recall from my research on the topic that there were, indeed, some 1HDT's in some odd markets that also used the auto tranny ECU to process the tach signal... I believe that all 1HZ's used the direct signal from IP sensor.
In my truck, i ended up running the "emissions ECU" solely for the purpose of processing the tach signal, because i could not source the correct non-EGR, non-auto tach from a 1HD-FT. I do have a BNIB 1HZ tach, which i might switch to at some point to get rid of the EGR ECU. I've also been looking (albeit not super actively) for an electronics guy who could analyze compare the signals coming from the IP sensor, to the processed signal which is output by the EGR-ECU and tell me how exactly how they differ. This job is unfortunately above my paygrade. Perhaps its possible to build a simple device to process the signal, so that it would be compatible with the tachs that expect it.
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- Thread starter
- #369
@TurboDennis - Yes, my HDJ80 is the later year with 1HDT and has the ECT as part of the tachometer circuit. I too found the same as you did - it wont run without the ECT computer. My gauge cluster also looks just like a FT one so I am in the same boat as you - find a non EGR/manual FT tachometer or just leave the ECT computer tucked away.
- Thread starter
- #370
I made more bleeding efforts with no change in shifting. I have also adjusted the master cylinder clevis to max position and that made no change. The master cylinder now bottoms out before the pedal reaches the floor but I do not get any shifting improvement. Again, it shifts very smooth with the motor off.
I then started to look at various models and part combinations with the H151 transmission. This included the 1FZFE. What stood out to me was how the release bearing (31230-60180), for my year HDJ80, was the same as the later year 1FZ yet the clutch cover, clutch, and flywheel were all different.
Only the earlier year 1990 - 1994 HDJ80 had a different release bearing (31230-60130) and pressure plate. As you can see in my previous posts, 366 and 367, the difference in length between the two release bearings is about 5.5mm. Enough to fully disengage the clutch?
I am not the only one with the "clutch not fully disengaging" comment after a manual swap. I have read a number of these and not sure there was a single fix besides adjusting the master cylinder rod or more bleeding. In some cases it was just left as-is.
It is also interesting to note that the 100 series, with a 1HD/H151 transmission has a release bearing of the same length, 58.5, as the 31230-60130 release bearing from earlier year 1HDT/H151 80's. Yes, the fork and slave/master cylinders are different but it may not be a coincidence to have same length bearing for same drivetrain.
I then started to have suspicions that the 1FZ and 1HD bellhousings are different lengths and hence why they have different size bearings. Someone with a 1FZFE bellhousing from a manual measured a length of 190mm. The 1HD housing measures roughly 198mm. A 8mm +/-2mm difference! The length to bearing ratio may not be 1:1 but this firms up my thought about the bearing needing to be longer for my HDJ80 than what I have installed.
I think the correct combination for my setup is below. The only items I need to change from current setup is the release bearing and pressure plate. Though photos between the 31210-60120 and 31210-60162 pressure plates look very similar with the only visible difference being a white painted ring where the release bearing makes contact on the 31210-60162 pressure plate. I installed the Aisin variant CTX-109 but it did not have any white painted circles on the contact surface while other online sources do show the Aisin with this white marking. Did I maybe get shipped a wrong pressure plate?
My installed pressure plate does not have this white painted ring. It is marked though as CTX-109
I then started to look at various models and part combinations with the H151 transmission. This included the 1FZFE. What stood out to me was how the release bearing (31230-60180), for my year HDJ80, was the same as the later year 1FZ yet the clutch cover, clutch, and flywheel were all different.
Only the earlier year 1990 - 1994 HDJ80 had a different release bearing (31230-60130) and pressure plate. As you can see in my previous posts, 366 and 367, the difference in length between the two release bearings is about 5.5mm. Enough to fully disengage the clutch?
I am not the only one with the "clutch not fully disengaging" comment after a manual swap. I have read a number of these and not sure there was a single fix besides adjusting the master cylinder rod or more bleeding. In some cases it was just left as-is.
It is also interesting to note that the 100 series, with a 1HD/H151 transmission has a release bearing of the same length, 58.5, as the 31230-60130 release bearing from earlier year 1HDT/H151 80's. Yes, the fork and slave/master cylinders are different but it may not be a coincidence to have same length bearing for same drivetrain.
I then started to have suspicions that the 1FZ and 1HD bellhousings are different lengths and hence why they have different size bearings. Someone with a 1FZFE bellhousing from a manual measured a length of 190mm. The 1HD housing measures roughly 198mm. A 8mm +/-2mm difference! The length to bearing ratio may not be 1:1 but this firms up my thought about the bearing needing to be longer for my HDJ80 than what I have installed.
I think the correct combination for my setup is below. The only items I need to change from current setup is the release bearing and pressure plate. Though photos between the 31210-60120 and 31210-60162 pressure plates look very similar with the only visible difference being a white painted ring where the release bearing makes contact on the 31210-60162 pressure plate. I installed the Aisin variant CTX-109 but it did not have any white painted circles on the contact surface while other online sources do show the Aisin with this white marking. Did I maybe get shipped a wrong pressure plate?
| 80 Series | |
| Year | Dec-97 |
| Short Block | 11400-17072 |
| Bellhousing | 31111-60210 |
| Flywheel | 13405-17020 |
| Input Shaft Bearing | 90363-15017 |
| Clutch | 31250-60231 |
| Clutch Cover (pressure plate) | 31210-60120 |
| Release Bearing | 31230-60130 |
| Clutch Release Fork | 31204-36110 |
| Fork Support | 31236-35030 |
| Slave Cylinder | 31470-60180 |
| Master Cylinder | 31410-60372 |
My installed pressure plate does not have this white painted ring. It is marked though as CTX-109
FMC80
SILVER Star
There is always so much good tech in your threads! I hope your research proves fruitful and you solve this; well done!
