1998 HDJ80 with 1HDT - Refresh (5 Viewers)

[logicbyondreaso]

When I installed the cruise control I had to swap out the turn signal stalk assembly for one with cruise control lever/buttons. Since then, I noticed the blinker lever was not smooth and felt gritty. It also sometimes would turn off the signal early before I could complete a turn.
I took it apart, cleaned it, and lubricated it with Toyota body grease. It is now smooth, quiet, and functions as expected.

 

[OGBeno]

The body stuff is gold. (Priced like it too!)

 

[logicbyondreaso]

The body stuff is gold. (Priced like it too!)

You're not kidding! I think it was $50 for that little jar. It does go a long way and works super well.

 

[DivByZero]

Damn it. I was going to look at the same issue with my indicator stalk next week. I was planning to throw some general purpose grease on it and call it a day, but now that I know there's a part code for this yellow goo, my OCD won't let me use anything else. I'd save a whole lot of money if I stopped logging on here!

 

[FMC80]

Toyota body grease huh? Weird flex.

Ahem, here’s mine. Unopened, because I can’t afford to use it.

I’m leaving each of my beneficiaries a 50g container. EACH.













Sorry for the hijack.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Toyota body grease huh? Weird flex.

Here is a flex: 20x the weight of the little can.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Started to work on the Torqit exhaust installation as well as EGT and Boost sensors via the @Lutz Auto Multi-Guage (Link to Lutz Auto Site)
Their design was recently updated to include a short harness instead of previous version where you connected wires directly to the board. This will clean up the connections and make it easier to keep track of if you end up removing the gauge for other work.

2 hours in and the manifold and turbo are out.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Cylinder 1 had two broken exhaust manifold studs. The top one came out very easy with a bolt extractor but the second required some welding. Since it was broken inside the block I made small welds to grow the stud before slipping on the nut and welding it. A few back and forth rotations and the bolt came out.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I could not find any cracks in the old manifold like others have seen. Maybe it has to do with this 1HDT being a later year (1997) and these defects were fixed or simply just a different production run. The two manifold halves separated easily.
Anticipating a cracked manifold I purchased a new one some time ago. I set it up into the drill press and drilled it out for the EGT sensor.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I set the heat shield into the drill press and cut out a hole for the sensor compression nut.
While removing the old exhaust I found every rubber hanger broken. Not sure how it even hung there without making obvious ruckus.
I picked new OEM hanger isolators for the Torqit exhaust.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I set the heat shield into the drill press and cut out a hole for the sensor compression nut.
While removing the old exhaust I found every rubber hanger broken. Not sure how it even hung there without making obvious ruckus.
I picked new OEM hanger isolators for the Torqit exhaust.

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The design of the Toyota hangers is clever. Even if a couple of rubbers fail, the exhaust still rests on the top of the brackets.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

The design of the Toyota hangers is clever. Even if a couple of rubbers fail, the exhaust still rests on the top of the brackets.

That is very clever of them!
I still need to remove the tail pipe section of old exhaust. I will need to cut it off. I have oem subtank and the solenoids/heatshield interfere with the removal. I’ve read others had to lift the body off the frame to get clearance. Since it’s an old exhaust it’s getting chopped.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Yep, I cut mine with sawzall near the rear diff.

Threading new system in might be tricky depending on placement of joints

 

[duece71]

That is very clever of them!
I still need to remove the tail pipe section of old exhaust. I will need to cut it off. I have oem subtank and the solenoids/heatshield interfere with the removal. I’ve read others had to lift the body off the frame to get clearance. Since it’s an old exhaust it’s getting chopped.

I had to cut off the rear section as well from just forward of the “pinch” point and rear axle.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I made a quick mount for the boost MAP sensor. Aluminum bar bent and cut to size. Leveled the MAP sensor. I just wanted to use existing mounting points.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Unpacked the Torqit exhaust and started to install it. I ended up cutting off the old exhaust tail pipe section that sits over the rear axle.
The new Torqit section that sits in the same spot required me to lift the truck via frame to increase the gap between the axle.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

The exhaust had some burn through areas and left over material from cutting. I removed the loose pieces. Substantial increase in diameter from old exhaust. I was also missing the EGT bung plug unless it was not supposed to be included.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I cleaned up all the roughness within the exhaust pipe from previous post.
Took out the new OEM turbo to mate it with the manifold prior to installation.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I started with assembling the exhaust manifold seal rings. Very straight forward process. O-rings go into the groves and the rings go over them with 180º out of phase openings. There is a collar that sits inside before it is mated to the larger manifold half.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Manifold and downpipe are mated using new hardware to the turbo. I then added the coolant and oil supply pipes with new gaskets and nuts.