Builds 1995 80 series build- a rolling black hole where money disappears (1 Viewer)

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So, as I installed the bumper I noticed there was some difference in the gap between the bumper and the fender flare on each side. There is easily 3/4” on the passenger side, while the drivers side is rubbing on the flare. You can see my fat finger in between the bumper and the flare in the first photo, while on the second there is zero room. At the moment I didn’t think much of it. Figured maybe it was a combination of 30 year old 300k mile Land Cruiser and a little tolerance stack on the bumper jig. It became very apparent a week later….

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I’d wheeled the truck a couple times with the stock bumper and had very minor rubbing on the flares in the rear, and never really thought much of it or inspected it very close. I knew there was some contact with the mudflaps but figured they’d come off for the 4x4 Labs bumper and wouldn’t be a problem.

Those mudflaps went over the flares and protected the exposed edge of the flare from catching on the lugs of the tire. While out yesterday, I discovered that I had minor tire contact on the FRONT edge of the rear flare on the drivers side (on the very bottom of the flare that attaches to the door)- but none on the rear of the wheel opening on that side.

I had more significant contact to the REAR edge of the wheel opening flare on the passenger side, but none on the front edge of that wheel opening. Well, without a mudflaps to protect the flare, I compressed the suspension a little hard while moving and that flare tried to go into orbit. s***.

Further inspection reveals that the body has shifted on the frame at some point in time, and isn’t sitting squarely. I know there was an impact prior to my ownership (one of my earlier posts highlights the dented oil pan where the front diff smacked it) and I noted during all the engine swap work that the body mount bolt that is under the front passengers feet is sitting at a pretty funny angle. Again- never paid much attention to those things and considered how they all added up until now. Fitment at the front bumper isn’t square either…. Body mount bolts misaligned, rear bumper fitment is off, and now the tire rubs on the wheel openings in the rear in different places side to side. Looking at the big picture, the body is definitely shifted just enough to be a problem.

Now the task is to unfuckup the flare, and then loosen all the body mounts and try to judge things back into place enough to line up properly. Then maybe trim/shield those rear flares so they don’t get hung up on the tires…. Perhaps extend the rear bumpstops a little more than I already have….

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This head crack is very interesting. I have just changed my valve cover gasket after trying to stop a leak because they are frustrating. I have one in a similar spot, and one slightly further up both on the passenger side. Now I'm wondering if its cracked like yours. Because I was extremely careful when installing the valve cover this time. :bang:
 
Been chasing a water leak into the cabin that soaks the carpet in the passenger front footwell. I've cleaned the sunroof drain tubes, and made sure the rocker panel drains are clear several times. The damn carpet kept getting wet under the weathertech mats.

Finally pulled the carpet back and had my kid run the hose on the vehicle while I was inside. Turns out the ******* windshield seal was leaking in the lower passenger front corner. It was a brand new Toyota seal and aftermarket glass less than a year ago.

A little urethane and hopefully all is well. My theme of holding this pile together with various adhesives continues.

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I found my leak one day and figured out it was the windshield. Put urethane under the seal all the way around and haven't seen a leak in the front since.
 
Got a few more things done lately. I've had a QPM for a while now, waiting on the right time to install it. Then things snowballed. I’d completed a couple jobs and the money was there soooooo...

Had the interior apart, and ended up throwing more money at the problem. ARB Drawers and fit kit, Renogy inverter and redarc bcdc controller for a third battery that powers the rear winch and electrical accessories. Added some powerwerx charge ports to the side panel of the drawers too, including one for solar input. The old ARB classic fridge and slide didn't tilt so I got an AluCab tilting slide and swapped in my ARB zero fridge. The classic is now on RV duty and it also sits by my chair at thanksgiving and Christmas for necessary beverages😎

The drawers and rear bumper sagged the rear a bit more than I liked, so I also stuffed some 30mm spring spacers in the back to level it out.

Anyway, on with the photos.

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Awesome build, an inspiration for my 93. Which rack do you have?
Thanks! It's a Bowfin rack. Hopefully they start making them again soon. I really like them- but had to source this one used as he hasn't been building them in a while.

Hopefully @Cruisers and Co will start making one here soon. I've seen one Johnny did and it's even cooler than mine 😎
 
Thanks! It's a Bowfin rack. Hopefully they start making them again soon. I really like them- but had to source this one used as he hasn't been building them in a while.

Hopefully @Cruisers and Co will start making one here soon. I've seen one Johnny did and it's even cooler than mine 😎
Honestly, I’ve never thought about making that rack since there are so many others on the market. Didn’t realized you like that one!
 
Today's project was to install some more parts I've had sitting around for a while, now that the engine is in and it's back on the road.

Wolfbox video rear view got installed on a Wits' End modular rear view mirror arm, and I relocated my FTM-400 head unit up there too, on a RAM mount. Also squeezed in the Solvefunction overhead RAM mount in case I want more in the future. It needed a little love from the Dremel to clear the modular mirror mount- probably overkill but I like it. @Outsane makes such killer 3D printed parts!

Also got the Rosen sunvisors installed along with some Solvefunction visor clip block off plates.

All these new parts really make me want to get the headliner cleaned up. It's pretty gross from the previous owner.

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Yo dude- when you get a chance could you post a side profile pic of the yaesu setup? This is sweet.
 
Awesome build really inspiring, just got myself my first 80 - I’m far from a mechanic but working my way. this rigg looks as I want mine, just don’t need 37 here in Norway😅
 
Drove over to Manteca for @orangefj45 swap meet a few weeks ago, and it was likely 90º+ going over I-80 on the way home. Unfortunately, even with a new engine, this thing is still not ripe with power, so it sang along at 4500RPM most of the way up the hill. Temps crept up to 210º or so which I wasn't thrilled with. I installed a modified blue-hub fan clutch from @landtank before the new engine went in (trying to keep the old one cool for a short notice weekend trip) and in 6 months time it puked all the silicone out and made a mess under the hood. I got trigger happy buying parts and spec'ed a new Toyota blue hub clutch when I built the engine and simply installed it and forgot about it. The modded clutch sat in a box in my hoard waiting on someday...

Well, after seeing those temps creep up and knowing summer (and a turbocharger!) are coming, I figured I'd better have a look at things. @landtank sent me a new o-ring for the clutch body and I ordered up some new 15k CST Silicone fluid for it. I got that clutch disassembled, and it looks like the o-ring was simply pinched a little during install, and it finally let go and puked its guts.

I cleaned it up, re-assembled it with new slippery silicone sauce and re-installed it on the vehicle. It definitely lets you know there's a fan on there now! I may have sacrificed some fuel economy with that fan engaged all the time- time will tell. For now, things are staying cool and the silicone is staying inside the clutch. I'll take it!

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Nicely done amigo. I'd save up for a Ron Davis radiator since you're going to a turbo. I'd also do it before the Tariff kicks in.

We live/play on similar elevations, and for me, no amount of monkeying with the fan clutch solved the heating issue until the RD came into play. I never allowed it to actually overheat but when the a/c cutoff happens at 226deg, you know. Until then, I was constantly over 215deg in the summer going home. After the RD, she's cool as a cucumber and the a/c got TOO cold now :rofl: . I see 200deg while climbing a long, sustained hill doing stupid miles/hr now. Lately, I've become used to driving at 80 mph regularly in order to keep up with Abq traffic, while getting high smiles/gallon.
 
Nicely done amigo. I'd save up for a Ron Davis radiator since you're going to a turbo. I'd also do it before the Tariff kicks in.

We live/play on similar elevations, and for me, no amount of monkeying with the fan clutch solved the heating issue until the RD came into play. I never allowed it to actually overheat but when the a/c cutoff happens at 226deg, you know. Until then, I was constantly over 215deg in the summer going home. After the RD, she's cool as a cucumber and the a/c got TOO cold now :rofl: . I see 200deg while climbing a long, sustained hill doing stupid miles/hr now. Lately, I've become used to driving at 80 mph regularly in order to keep up with Abq traffic, while getting high smiles/gallon.
Yeah....I've heard the possible tariff might increase the cost of the turbo kit. Shouldn't do much to a RD Radiator I hope- they're US sourced and made. We will see how the budget looks.

I put in a brand new OEM Toyota radiator (and the rest of the cooling system) when I did the new engine, so maybe it'll be ok for a bit. You're right tho- playing at altitude works 'em! I *really* want to just set the cruise at let it eat without all the transmission shifting and back and forth!
 
Yeah....I've heard the possible tariff might increase the cost of the turbo kit. Shouldn't do much to a RD Radiator I hope- they're US sourced and made. We will see how the budget looks.

I put in a brand new OEM Toyota radiator (and the rest of the cooling system) when I did the new engine, so maybe it'll be ok for a bit. You're right tho- playing at altitude works 'em! I *really* want to just set the cruise at let it eat without all the transmission shifting and back and forth!
a new radiator won't do much in the turbo territory, so don't hold your breath. NOTHING, I mean NOTHING gave me a piece of mind until the RD came into my life. After my bunghole healed itself from that purchase, I now drive her like I stole her. Coolant temps does nothing for my blood pressure any more. Even if it spiked after a hard pull, it comes right back down.

Try this the next time you go on a road trip. Remove the hood and see what happens to the temps on the same route and climb. I bet you'll see an improvement.
 

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