Build 1995 80 series build- a rolling black hole where money disappears

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alia176 said:
a new radiator won't do much in the turbo territory, so don't hold your breath. NOTHING, I mean NOTHING gave me a piece of mind until the RD came into my life. After my bunghole healed itself from that purchase, I now drive her like I stole her. Coolant temps does nothing for my blood pressure any more. Even if it spiked after a hard pull, it comes right back down.

Try this the next time you go on a road trip. Remove the hood and see what happens to the temps on the same route and climb. I bet you'll see an improvement.
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I'll have to check it out.... I'll flog it up to Reno and back in the next day or two and see...

I also added the factory foam back to the radiator support and AC condenser so ensure airflow "through" and not "around the heat exchangers, and installed new inner fender rubber splash shields to further force airflow through the engine compartment as intended.

I have a big custom aluminum radiator in my old Diesel truck and in my Supra, so I'm abundantly familiar to the peace of mind those bring. If push comes to shove, we can go that route on the 80. In my talks with most folks, a good factory setup was adequate- even turbocharged- but not everyone uses their truck i the same manner or has the same expectations...
 
you're doing all the things that are done typically. I did remove the inner splash shields on mine and feel an inordinate amount of heat coming out of that area after a hard pull then coming to a stop. Our elevations really task these engines and the heat soak from that turbo is plain redonk. Even now, I can't touch my fenders after I park on the driveway, and I have louvers on the hood. I can't recall exactly but I might be running 10k CST, need to look at the log book.
 
alia176 said:
you're doing all the things that are done typically. I did remove the inner splash shields on mine and feel an inordinate amount of heat coming out of that area after a hard pull then coming to a stop. Our elevations really task these engines and the heat soak from that turbo is plain redonk. Even now, I can't touch my fenders after I park on the driveway, and I have louvers on the hood. I can't recall exactly but I might be running 10k CST, need to look at the log book.
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I also intend to add an intercooler, which will further tax the heat exchanger stack.....

What do guys who aren't into cars and guns do with all their money? I really want to know. ha ha ha!
 
reklund5 said:
I also intend to add an intercooler, which will further tax the heat exchanger stack.....

What do guys who aren't into cars and guns do with all their money? I really want to know. ha ha ha!
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An intercooler is a nice option, and with the York in there already, I might have to go the Meth option. I'm making space on the driver side of the engine bay. The ABS module is gone, and the charcoal canister will be re-located. So, a large custom tank will work for windshield washer fluid doing washing and mething duties.
 
Took a little drive over the Rubicon trail last week. One little ding to the RR 1/4 panel and the RF flare and tire occupied the same space at the same time for a moment...and the tire won. Turns out the previous owners hack work held the flare on with formed gutter flashing, roofing caulk, and hope.

Made some new mounts this evening and the epoxy is setting up overnight. The flare will be back on in no time! Got some new front bump stops coming to prevent a reoccurrence. Definitely want those lower transfer case gears now too...but the truck did the trail without too much fuss as it sits. Sorta kind almost justifies the time, money, and work put in over the last couple of years 😎

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I've had some troublesome rust on the rear hatch since I bought this thing. About a year ago, @lelandEOD and @RAYJON and I took a trip over the hill to see Aleksy and I bought I rust free hatch from him. It was mostly stripped of its guts, save for some wiring and small bits. I finished stripping the parts off it and dropped it off at my buddy Peter's body shop here in town. He paint matched it perfectly to the aftermarket black paint on my 80. I picked it up and did approximately nothing with it for 6 months...

Well, this last weekend I finally got around to getting it installed. @lelandEOD was kind enough to come and lend a hand. All new emblems, rubber seals, transferred the glass over, and got the latch/lock actuator/wiper stuff swapped. I also added wiring for the wolf box camera and some figure accessories thru the hatch harness boot to the body. The old one became wall art in the shop for now...

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I also got around to installing my @Delta VS tailgate storage panel. I covered it in SeaDek foam and carpeted the inside with some light colored carpet so I can see what's in there. The SeaDek is pretty nice- just hoping Dave from Delta makes the digital file of the panels available and I can have some laser cut. I did ok with a razor knife, but it could be a bit better. Not sure I’d cut the holes for the bolts if I had to do it again- they're unnecessary unless it has to be removed for some reason.

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reklund5 said:
Mid April the fun really began. I decided to begin some work under the hood to slow down the oil leaks and see if I could get it to hold its fluids. The usual oil pump o-ring, crank seal, valve cover, distributor o-ring were all hammered. All of the oil pump cover bolts had to be drilled. The PHH pipe was of course held together with Permatex and the heater valve was ready to crumble. Did the water pump, thermostat, all the belts, cap/rotor/wires/plugs a new hood insulator, and added some under-hood lights. The work would definitely slow down the leaks- but not cure them. Turns out the o-ring between the timing cover and the block just above the oil pump was ruptured, so a nagging leak continued for the next year or so... Further inspection after more degreasing revealed the lower oil pan had a diff-sized dent in it. Somewhere along the way there was a bit of a collision on the RF of the vehicle, although no damage to the radiator support or fender. Odd...

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Those underhood lights are spiffy. Where'd you get them?
 
Malleus said:
Those underhood lights are spiffy. Where'd you get them?
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Thanks!

Those are just KC Cyclone lights. I installed a M5 NutSert in the hood in place of two clips and used the lights to hold the hood insulator up in those locations.
 
Brilliant
 
reklund5 said:
One of my peeves was the fact that only one worn out key came with the vehicle, ...I got the factory key code and cut some factory keys, and got all the lock cylinders working. Even got a valet key cut that works the doors and ignition, but not the glovebox- like it would have come with from the factory.
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I wonder if I could achieve this same thing and save some money. If I understand correctly you had a factory fresh key cut that works in the passenger door, and liftgate, but also the ignition and drivers door?

When i bought mine it came with two keys, one has black plastic, and one is all metal. The all metal one works in the drivers door and the ignition but no where else. Honestly I haven't checked the glovebox.

The black plastic one works no where that I'm aware of, but maybe I need to test it again.

I've been considering spending the money to order the full set from Delta and have everything rekeyed and just have all new keys and cylinders.
 
Bigtoepfer said:
I wonder if I could achieve this same thing and save some money. If I understand correctly you had a factory fresh key cut that works in the passenger door, and liftgate, but also the ignition and drivers door?

When i bought mine it came with two keys, one has black plastic, and one is all metal. The all metal one works in the drivers door and the ignition but no where else. Honestly I haven't checked the glovebox.

The black plastic one works no where that I'm aware of, but maybe I need to test it again.

I've been considering spending the money to order the full set from Delta and have everything rekeyed and just have all new keys and cylinders.
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You'd be wise to pull the code off the passenger front door lock cylinder and start with a fresh key for sure.

it is possible that a previous owner had the drivers door and ignition cylinders replaced, as they see the most action- but it's more likely the worn out keys you have are the problem. Also be advised the valet key is cut a little different. It will NOT work on the glovebox if cut properly. A competent locksmith or dealer should be able to help you out tho.
 
Is it that easy that I can just compare the code on the cylinders? I did not realize that. Project for a weekend I suppose.
 
Good to know. I did recheck every thing. The aftermarket key I have only works in ignition and drivers door. The other black plastic key is actually a Toyota key and doesn't work in anything. 😅 Good times.
 
Get a blank OEM key and take it to the Toyota dealer with your reg. and ID and they well cut you a new key
I did it not to long ago and the new key opens all the doors now including the back hatch ;)
 
Bigtoepfer said:
Good to know. I did recheck every thing. The aftermarket key I have only works in ignition and drivers door. The other black plastic key is actually a Toyota key and doesn't work in anything. 😅 Good times.
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Get that code and have your dealer cut the key. They may be able to look it up by VIN as @Broski suggested too.
 
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