Builds 1994 HZJ73 Wine Red Flex Dream

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Really the only thing I would like to improve on my setup is the jarring pothole/cracks type of bumps. Everything else is smooth sailing and rides pretty dang good. The bilsteins were a huge upgrade over my previous shocks.


I suppose that’s why you have all those adjustments to dial it in.
If you're already dialed with your springs, matching your front end weight, and positioned correctly within the suspension travel, as well as "good enough" shocks with sufficient compression valving, than the next thing that comes to mind when thinking about the specific scenarios you are mentioning, is a shackle reversal modification.
This would involve holesaw cutting the chassis rails and welding a correctly sized bushing to accommodate for poly bushes for the rear positioned shackle if you do not want to raise the vehicle significantly.
However, this is a lot of work and you would have to ask someone who had done it if it is worth the hassle.
Good luck
 
Just finished swapping the other hub. I had some issues with the snap ring not wanting to settle back in, but we got’er dun. EVERYTHING WORKS THE WAY IT SHOULD!

I also removed the sways bar today and the flex is more gooder. I also had to retune the MRR’s. I’ll be ready for a wee off-road trip next week I think.
 
Welp, I spent the past month slaving away getting my Cruiser sorted for an off road trip this week and BOOM told yesterday I’m going to AZ today for 2 months of work, arggggg.
I can take it out for you 😜
 
Welp, I spent the past month slaving away getting my Cruiser sorted for an off road trip this week and BOOM told yesterday I’m going to AZ today for 2 months of work, arggggg.
I more than know the feeling. It's great to be fruitfully employed but sometimes you wish you could just live a normal life ;-)
 
After 2 months of working out of state I’m finally home!

I have been running the idea of running a quick sway bar disconnect and have been running some ideas through my head on the best way to approach this. I found a universal post to post kit online and it works pretty damn well. I’m now trying to think of the best solution on how to secure the bar when it’s disconnected, but I have some good ideas in mind.

IMG_9174.jpeg
 
Where did you find those? Been also thinking of trying to find some like that, all though I don’t seem to need mine hooked back up with those Dobinson MRS shocks
They are made by Warrior Products. They are pricey for what they are, but they are stout and I found an online coupon.

I took off the front sway permanently before putting the disconnects on and I didn’t think my Cruiser drove too bad with the MRR’s dialed up, but it wasn’t as tight and crisp as with the sway bar back on. I now have the low speed and high speed dialed down a bit with the sway connected and I feel that’s the perfect combo for my rig when street driving.
 
I removed my hi-lift jack from the front bumper today. There was just so much weight on the front with the ARB bumper and winch. I really wanted to spread the weight out a bit to the back.

I used the optional oem Jerry can mount hinges and they worked perfectly. The rear door opens perfectly and everything seems pretty stout.

I also trimmed down my front extra long u-bolts today.

AND….. after a bunch of test drives today in regards to my front sway bar disconnect… the solution to stopping the front bar from flopping around when disconnected is to just disconnect the endlink on one side when disconnecting. You still get the full flex and the bar stays in place. Much more simple solution than I expected.

IMG_9196.jpeg

IMG_9201.jpeg
IMG_9200.jpeg
IMG_9195.jpeg
IMG_9185.jpeg
IMG_9186.jpeg
 
A lot of people have been asking about the part numbers for the OEM Jerry can mount hinges to mount their jacks. Here are the part numbers below….. Amayama was the cheapest place to find them by far even with the shipping. You will need some long bolts, tubing to use as spacers, nylon nuts and lock washers. You will also need to drill out the hole on the hinge a bit too. Nothing else special or crazy was needed. It was a super easy and awesome solution. I did a full day of wheeling today and the jack was safe and secure.

IMG_9256.png
 
Wheeling today in Attica, IN was AWESOME. I am so stoked and pleased that my Cruiser now handles so well on and off-road. I really don’t think it can get any better. The alignment is good and the MRR shocks are dialed in just so perfectly. I’m so glad I spent the extra money on them. I really don’t think I can get her to handle or drive any better. Knock on wood the stars stay aligned!

She is also a tank and grips like crazy. I only had to use the rear locker once today and she locked right up.

IMG_9227.jpeg
IMG_9222.jpeg
IMG_9214.jpeg
IMG_9237.jpeg
IMG_9242.jpeg
IMG_9241.jpeg
IMG_9246.jpeg
 
I just finished moving the front axle forward an inch. What a pain in the hotdog/sausage that was. Like anything else though I could definitely do it easier and faster the next time I have to do something similar. Now I can run my mudflaps again and some day when I find the Mobile leprechaun’s pot of gold I’ll have room to I run 35’s.
IMG_9312.jpeg
 
I reinstalled my front factory mudflaps now that the front axle has been moved forward and I have clearance to flex with the 33 inch tires. I also added some over sized flaps. They offer great coverage and don’t look too bad. I’m a bit worried that they may be a bit too stiff for off-roading though.

IMG_0376.jpeg
IMG_0374.jpeg
IMG_0373.jpeg
 
If you want the same coverage and super flexible, the Rally Armor UR (urethane) flaps are available in large sizes and are super flexible and not stiff at all.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom