They look to big, Like a fat lady covering her but with a sweat shirt 
JMO
JMO
Builds 1994 HZJ73 Wine Red Flex Dream
- Thread starter Fishbulb
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- #202
HAHAHA, you ain’t wrong!
My tires stick out quite a bit and I didn’t want to drop the money on flares so this is what I will have for now. I don’t mind the looks in person, but I’m also a sucker for rally cars, etc. I’m hoping they will protect the paint on the doors.
My tires stick out quite a bit and I didn’t want to drop the money on flares so this is what I will have for now. I don’t mind the looks in person, but I’m also a sucker for rally cars, etc. I’m hoping they will protect the paint on the doors.
- Thread starter
- #203
I got the One Stone armrests in the mail today. I must admit I absolutely love them. I regret not getting them sooner. The quality is top notch. They secure firmly with the magnets and look pretty dang factory. The brown matches my dash and seats perfectly. They even included a free mug. Hellll yeah.
Word to the wise ….. remove the beverage, especially if it’s hot, prior to shutting the door.
- Thread starter
- #205
After a huge headache of chasing leaks, trouble bleeding the lines and making adjustments my new “rebuilt” oem steering box from Cruiser Parts is finally installed. I say, “rebuilt” because apparently the internals are no longer available from Toyota and they may have only replaced seals instead of full internals. I also want to point out that at the beginning of the install I called and emailed Cruiser Parts with a couple questions and I never received any response. I even accidentally reached out to Cruiser Outfitters due to being so busy with work and they responded immediately. Cruiser Outfitters will be my absolute go to and no exceptions from here on out.
I also want to thank Eurasiaoverland and OGbeno for the help with this and info.
I also want to thank Eurasiaoverland and OGbeno for the help with this and info.
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As you say, none of the internals for these boxes are available any longer. The one thing that can be changed is the adjuster bolt which, if worn, can cause free play in the steering. But if the wear is in the teeth on the sector shaft and power piston, there is nothing that can be done.
The health of the steering box can be judged from how much the adjuster stud protrudes from the lock nut if it's just a thread or two, or flush with the nut, the internals are well worn. If the steering is much tighter at lock than in the straight ahead position, that is also an indication of wear.
I have no idea how Cruiser Parts stay in business, they are a last, last resort for me, though I have to say I have got a couple of NOS parts from them over the years. The last time their faulty e-commerce platform sent it to an address which I had not selected, and of course it was on my dime that I had to send it on to the correct address. Abysmal customer service and incompetence. Feel free to add a testimonial to the long list in the Bad Vendors forum
EO
- Thread starter
- #207
I have the adjustment screw almost backed out all the way. Maybe it was rebuilt at some point. The shaft did look new. I really don’t know. I spend a lot of time on this site and I’m surprised I haven’t come across critical reviews of Cruiser Parts before. I know now…As you say, none of the internals for these boxes are available any longer. The one thing that can be changed is the adjuster bolt which, if worn, can cause free play in the steering. But if the wear is in the teeth on the sector shaft and power piston, there is nothing that can be done.
The health of the steering box can be judged from how much the adjuster stud protrudes from the lock nut if it's just a thread or two, or flush with the nut, the internals are well worn. If the steering is much tighter at lock than in the straight ahead position, that is also an indication of wear.
I have no idea how Cruiser Parts stay in business, they are a last, last resort for me, though I have to say I have got a couple of NOS parts from them over the years. The last time their faulty e-commerce platform sent it to an address which I had not selected, and of course it was on my dime that I had to send it on to the correct address. Abysmal customer service and incompetence. Feel free to add a testimonial to the long list in the Bad Vendors forum
EO
Matches the curtains.
- Thread starter
- #210
I usually prefer curtain free.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
I have not had a really bad experience with CruiserParts.
I had a part ship very late once.
Customer service is very lame/useless.
I had a part ship very late once.
Customer service is very lame/useless.
- Thread starter
- #212
I installed my matching rear mudflaps. They are huge, but they will keep the mud from collecting on the inner side of my rear bumper.
I also installed some quality hood props. I’m appreciating having them already.
I’ve also been hitting up the local trails and taking the Yota.
I also installed some quality hood props. I’m appreciating having them already.
I’ve also been hitting up the local trails and taking the Yota.
- Thread starter
- #213
I drove 5 hours south to the Turkey Bay OHV trails in Kentucky last week for my birthday and made a stop in Nashville where I ran into the Planters Peanut Mobile! Pretty epic trip. I didn’t get any footage of the more “exciting” and challenging trails.
I like the front end of your rig with the ARB; it's a good presentation. 
did you change the mrs settings when off roading? if so what did you set them to?
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- #216
I have the settings turned in kind of far. I can’t tell you the amount of clicks off the top of my head because I kept making adjustments until I was happy with the results. I have the rebound set pretty slow too. I should probably count them and write them down…. I’ve actually been meaning to do that for awhile…
I didn’t have a need to adjust them off-road… disconnecting the front sway bar affects how they respond and feel along with the additional articulation.
I'll bet it does, yeah.
I really, really want to find a way to shove an AntiRock under the front of mine.
- Thread starter
- #218
Ohhhhh, I’ve also had that thought! I think you can get the universal kit and put the rod through the tube that goes across the front of the chassis. Use some sort of plugs to hold and center the rod. Just a bit of welding on the axle for the endlinks and that would be the hardest part… in theory. I think it can be done!
That's the way they were originally designed for the TJ/LJ platform, and it works really well. I ran one on my TJ for years; it was a beautiful, predictable suspension once I got it working.
Delrin/UHMW bushing; again, same system as the Jeeps, just different dimensions. I think it wouldn't be a hard project on a lathe, and possibly a mill; they're just a press-fit retained by the arm clamp. Currie offers bushings piecemeal, but I don't know if one could be made to fit a 7x crossmember or not. I'll go look and measure tomorrow.
That will work if the housing is strong enough; I honestly don't know whether or not it is, but there might be a way to reinforce it if not. Clamshell, mini-truss, double-shear... something along those lines will likely work. Either way, it's gonna have to be a strong mount; I've ripped links apart in the past, so I'd prefer the connection point to be significantly stronger than the links themselves. Otherwise, we're going to be pulling mounts loose instead of replacing a link.
Another consideration is the arm length; as I'm sure you know, AntiRock rates change a lot depending on where you mount the links to the arms, and you have to get them in the right location in order to wind the bar correctly. I'm not sure what arm length that will require on a 73 front end (or what clearances are available) but I'm willing to bet that it's nothing a big press-brake can't solve by way of bending a set of universal arms to fit the available real-estate. If things get really tight and the arms get really short by way of cutting-down, then it's gonna be lathe time again: the bar itself will have to be turned down in diameter in order to get it back to the correct rate for the arm length (and everything else).
So, yes, I agree that it can be done; in fact, I don't know that the install will even be that difficult. Tuning the system, however, is a LOT of work. I've heard that saga first-hand from one of the guys that developed the original stuff back in the day; it was a long, arduous process of trial and error. But yes, it can be done.
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