Builds 1994 FZJ80 5.3l and 4L60e swap
- Thread starter rockrod
- Start date
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Daniel_Markofsky said:
You will be happy with the results.
Robbie is the man when it comes to the 1FZ. Everyone else are mere mortals.
Congrats on the new engine jobber.
- Thread starter
- #123
that's good! I am glad my old engine is getting some good use! With the rebuilt head and new head gasket, it should be good for many more miles
Thx. Robbie gives your skills similar accolades. Must have mentioned you a dozen times as we worked.
that's good! I am glad my old engine is getting some good use! With the rebuilt head and new head gasket, it should be good for many more miles
It was great. Smooth, strong, pulled great.
- Thread starter
- #125
got more done..
I ordered a replacement shifter cable (trailblazer application) to replace the one I broke doing the install. Got it in and tested and the shifter works great. It lines up with the indicator window just perfectly.
I also managed to get the drive by wire gas pedal installed. That was a bugger.
GM went to a pedal for the 2006 and newer trucks that's just huge. It's also shaped in such a way that getting it to fit the cruiser pedal box is a challenge.
Here's what it looks like:
next to the stock pedal assembly:
here's where it needs to fit:
something like this:
The pedal came with a metal bracket that it sits on when installed in the gm truck. I reworked the bracket a little bit and tied it into one existing hole, and two new holes to arrive at this:
Full throttle:
Released:
This is how close it comes to the steering column joint:
it's a tight fit.
I ordered a replacement shifter cable (trailblazer application) to replace the one I broke doing the install. Got it in and tested and the shifter works great. It lines up with the indicator window just perfectly.
I also managed to get the drive by wire gas pedal installed. That was a bugger.
GM went to a pedal for the 2006 and newer trucks that's just huge. It's also shaped in such a way that getting it to fit the cruiser pedal box is a challenge.
Here's what it looks like:
next to the stock pedal assembly:
here's where it needs to fit:
something like this:
The pedal came with a metal bracket that it sits on when installed in the gm truck. I reworked the bracket a little bit and tied it into one existing hole, and two new holes to arrive at this:
Full throttle:
Released:
This is how close it comes to the steering column joint:
it's a tight fit.
- Thread starter
- #126
Also mounted the TAC module. This little box takes the signal from pedal and sends it to the electronic throttle body on the motor.
I still have quite a list of things to get done, but there's a light at the end of the tunnel....
I should have it fired in about two weeks.
I still have quite a list of things to get done, but there's a light at the end of the tunnel....
I should have it fired in about two weeks.
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alia176
SILVER Star
If your pedal didn't have that bend in it, would you been able to move the whole assembly toward the right? The arm looks like a composite material so it can't be bend I'm guessing.
- Thread starter
- #128
yes - it's plastic. for whatever reason, gm changed the design for the trucks and wen to this design. Some believe a corvette pedal can be swapped in place for a better fit, but I can't find a single success story where this was done. I am stuck with this pedal or swap out everything (tak, pedal, harness, and reprogram the PCM) to use the older design. It fits, just barely.... and the movement is fine. The only real issue is the pedal sits a little higher than stock.
- Thread starter
- #129
here's a question for those who have done the vortec swap..
what coolant are you running?
standard green?
toy red?
dexcool?
my 80 had red in it when it was drained to pull the 1FZ. Thinking of getting the asian coolant from napa (basically HOAT G-05 coolant, phosphate free).
what coolant are you running?
standard green?
toy red?
dexcool?
my 80 had red in it when it was drained to pull the 1FZ. Thinking of getting the asian coolant from napa (basically HOAT G-05 coolant, phosphate free).
dexcool in mine. Bought the 100% and cut it 50% with distilled water.
nicely done! do you think IF you wanted the pedal lower you could shim out the upper mount points on the tab and move the pedal range lower to the floor (not changing stroke?) kinda tipping the top down?
- Thread starter
- #132
maybe a little with the metal bracket I used or build a new one and tip it down more. Part of the issue is the floor board shape leaves little room.
I used a pedal assembly from an 03 Tahoe. It does not look anything like that.
- Thread starter
- #134
that makes sense - the 2006 and later trucks and vettes use a different program.
- Thread starter
- #135
Another update..
got the Delta Current fan controller mounted and wired up to the fan. Tested it with some 200F water and sure enough, it spun the fans up. They pull a ton of air!
Also dove into the fuel pump wiring. Since the stock arrangement uses a resistor to cut fuel pump voltage under light throttle and then supply full voltage at full throttle, I simply bypassed this and ran a new wire to the pump. The harness is available under the driver's side rear seat to splice in.
Finished building the high pressure and return line and test the fuel system. Pump works, no leaks, but I think the pump is a bit on the loud side. Typical walbro pump.
This is my Rol-Air flaring tool. It does 37 degree JIC/AN single flares.
Buy one here:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/flaringtools3.php
I used it to flare the stock fuel supply line (it's 5/16in) and used a tube nut and sleeve to make the connection. The braided line is -06 teflon line and I used the Russell connectors to join everything up.
Engine wiring, radiator upper and lower hoses, exhaust, fluids in the trans and power steering and cooling, and run some cooler lines to the radiator and aux cooler and then I can light it off
Getting closer...
got the Delta Current fan controller mounted and wired up to the fan. Tested it with some 200F water and sure enough, it spun the fans up. They pull a ton of air!
Also dove into the fuel pump wiring. Since the stock arrangement uses a resistor to cut fuel pump voltage under light throttle and then supply full voltage at full throttle, I simply bypassed this and ran a new wire to the pump. The harness is available under the driver's side rear seat to splice in.
Finished building the high pressure and return line and test the fuel system. Pump works, no leaks, but I think the pump is a bit on the loud side. Typical walbro pump.
This is my Rol-Air flaring tool. It does 37 degree JIC/AN single flares.
Buy one here:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/flaringtools3.php
I used it to flare the stock fuel supply line (it's 5/16in) and used a tube nut and sleeve to make the connection. The braided line is -06 teflon line and I used the Russell connectors to join everything up.
Engine wiring, radiator upper and lower hoses, exhaust, fluids in the trans and power steering and cooling, and run some cooler lines to the radiator and aux cooler and then I can light it off
Getting closer...
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- Thread starter
- #136
- Thread starter
- #137
was able to get more done in spite of the kids being sick the last 2 weeks and the water pump in my cummins letting go the other night.....
cummins water pump - it's a super easy change, one 10mm wrench and a breaker bar to release the belt is all that's needed. You don't even have to remove the fan
The cooling system is ready. I got the hoses plumbed. The top hose is a stock silverado hose cut down and the lower hose is a combination of a stock silverado lower and some off the shelf hose to get a 90 degree bend.
slow progress, but tackling the wiring integration is just around the corner.
cummins water pump - it's a super easy change, one 10mm wrench and a breaker bar to release the belt is all that's needed. You don't even have to remove the fan
The cooling system is ready. I got the hoses plumbed. The top hose is a stock silverado hose cut down and the lower hose is a combination of a stock silverado lower and some off the shelf hose to get a 90 degree bend.
slow progress, but tackling the wiring integration is just around the corner.
alia176
SILVER Star
I was curious about something: technically, the engine can run (but not drive the vehicle) with the PCM as a stand alone system, correct? You need to integrate with the Toyota dashboard mostly for the gauges, if I understand this correctly.
Looking good!!
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
Did you end up using the Corvette fuel filter with the built in fuel pressure regulator? Cummins h20 pumps are a breeze too bad nothing else is that easy on them, but I do love the CTD though.... Looking good boss
