^ 18mpg will make up for it in a hurry!
Great thread/project BTW!
Great thread/project BTW!
Builds 1994 FZJ80 5.3l and 4L60e swap
- Thread starter rockrod
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
RiverCityDave
SILVER Star
I'm convinced, this is the route I'm going to follow. My 1FZ is soldiering along for now, but the lack of power is such a hassle that it had me looking at 100 series etc. I've been chewing on the Straight Toyota V8 swap, a Vortec, etc.
One question, how is your AC working?
One question, how is your AC working?
- Thread starter
- #163
a/c is not functional yet - I have to get some custom hoses made up with GM on the compressor end and toyota on the truck end. There's an A/C shop here in parker that says they can do it. I just have to buy the gm hoses, and then they will splice them to the toyota hoses to make up the set. They will then reconnect everything, vacuum it down to check for leaks, and then charge it back up. I will have to run the wire from the toyota harness and splice it into the GM compressor so that it activates the compressor clutch.
- Thread starter
- #164
Another update - got the stock temp gauge working today. I tapped the brass bung to the correct 16mm size and screwed the assembly into place in the vortec head. The gauge is working once again.
yep - that's blood on the header tube. skinned my knuckle trying to get that block off plug out of the head. It's an 8mm allen head for future reference.
Here's the oil pressure sender tapped into the f-body pan oil cooler block off plate. It's a 10mm x 1 thread.
Now it's just a matter of getting the tach to work. The Dakota Digital box should be here monday.
yep - that's blood on the header tube. skinned my knuckle trying to get that block off plug out of the head. It's an 8mm allen head for future reference.
Here's the oil pressure sender tapped into the f-body pan oil cooler block off plate. It's a 10mm x 1 thread.
Now it's just a matter of getting the tach to work. The Dakota Digital box should be here monday.
Last edited:
Great progress!!! I did the same thing for the oil pressure sender. Yea, stabbing an engine in something is easy compared to getting everything to work. 
Can you please shoot a couple of pics of how you routed your exhaust? I'm going to redo mine next month. Thank you.
Can you please shoot a couple of pics of how you routed your exhaust? I'm going to redo mine next month. Thank you.
- Thread starter
- #166
CDL is functional again. I apparently cut a ground wire out of the EC1 harness so the entire diff lock system wasn't grounded. The CDL and diff lock ECUs were not grounded. they are now
I tried to figure out how to get the back up lamps working again. Apparently the switch to activate them is located in the old A442 transmission... not sure how I am going to fix that one yet. Maybe there's a wire in the vortec harness that will supply voltage to the lights when in reverse.
I tried to figure out how to get the back up lamps working again. Apparently the switch to activate them is located in the old A442 transmission... not sure how I am going to fix that one yet. Maybe there's a wire in the vortec harness that will supply voltage to the lights when in reverse.
- Thread starter
- #167
Factory tach is now working. It helps when you choose the correct wire in the harness. I originally had it tied to a wire that I thought was feeding the input to the tach, but it really was going to ground. The wire is located in the harness that connects to the now-missing igniter. I hooked the dakota box up to the black wire and bingo, instant tach working.
This means that all of the factory gauges are now working (water temp, oil pressure, volts, fuel, speedo and tach).
This means that all of the factory gauges are now working (water temp, oil pressure, volts, fuel, speedo and tach).
Flank
American by Birth, Texan by the grace of God.
Its almost toooooo easy...
Your list must be getting really short
How about some more pictures for us Wan-a-b like rockrod guys.
How about some more pictures for us Wan-a-b like rockrod guys.
- Thread starter
- #170
I promise to get some pics and video this weekend.
the list is indeed much shorter now:
clean up wiring (tape up and secure)
reverse lights
A/C lines
finish wiring the EVAP vent solenoid
Send PCM back to tuner to delete fuel tank level and fuel pressure DTCs
Re-work exhaust (what I did was temporary to get it on the road). Right now it's running through a single cat. Air Care requires the same number of cats the donor vehicle had so I have to add another. I also have to have the secondary O2s functional so I need to add those as well. I bought a 3 chamber 50 series flowmaster to give it some teeth. It's just too quiet
It's a lot of fun surprising people on the road. No one expects this heavy tank to accelerate as fast as it can now.
the list is indeed much shorter now:
clean up wiring (tape up and secure)
reverse lights
A/C lines
finish wiring the EVAP vent solenoid
Send PCM back to tuner to delete fuel tank level and fuel pressure DTCs
Re-work exhaust (what I did was temporary to get it on the road). Right now it's running through a single cat. Air Care requires the same number of cats the donor vehicle had so I have to add another. I also have to have the secondary O2s functional so I need to add those as well. I bought a 3 chamber 50 series flowmaster to give it some teeth. It's just too quiet
It's a lot of fun surprising people on the road. No one expects this heavy tank to accelerate as fast as it can now.
sweet progress! it's nice when the light at the end of tunnel isn't a train isn't it!
i had a quick question, your 18mpg is real? ( i apologize for a bad choice of words, no insinuation of anything) meaning your pcm is corrected for tires and gears? also are you still stock RnP? i ask all this because i'm looking at 4l60e for an atlas swap and trying to work out tires vs trans and RnP gearing, economy blah blah expectations... 18 would be so sweet, especially with your power to throw the mileage away when wanted
i realize i am considering a different motor, but i'm grasping for any straws i can (and pretending i can keep it all straight in my head as well 
)
rock on
i had a quick question, your 18mpg is real? ( i apologize for a bad choice of words, no insinuation of anything) meaning your pcm is corrected for tires and gears? also are you still stock RnP? i ask all this because i'm looking at 4l60e for an atlas swap and trying to work out tires vs trans and RnP gearing, economy blah blah expectations... 18 would be so sweet, especially with your power to throw the mileage away when wanted
i realize i am considering a different motor, but i'm grasping for any straws i can (and pretending i can keep it all straight in my head as well )rock on
- Thread starter
- #172
The 18mpg was taken from the scan gauge as a snap shot at that very moment. I am not done running this tank down, but once I do and refill it, I will be able to start calculating average MPG. I see as high as 25 MPG and as low as 7.5 MPG so average that out to ~16 MPG.
The PCM was re-programmed for the 315s and stock 4.10 gears I am running. The MPH on the scan gauge is within 1 MPH on my GPS. My speedo is not corrected so it's about 6 mph slow and therefore the ODO is off as well.
At any rate - I didn't do this swap to increase economy. I did it for power and better driveability. Any gains in economy are a fringe benefit. I think anyone would be hard-pressed to get better than 15 MPG average out of an 80 series (your choice of power plant) - they are heavy and boxy. I think the best part is that power is improved significantly, yet there really is no loss in MPG. To me, that's a decent return on investment.
The PCM was re-programmed for the 315s and stock 4.10 gears I am running. The MPH on the scan gauge is within 1 MPH on my GPS. My speedo is not corrected so it's about 6 mph slow and therefore the ODO is off as well.
At any rate - I didn't do this swap to increase economy. I did it for power and better driveability. Any gains in economy are a fringe benefit. I think anyone would be hard-pressed to get better than 15 MPG average out of an 80 series (your choice of power plant) - they are heavy and boxy. I think the best part is that power is improved significantly, yet there really is no loss in MPG. To me, that's a decent return on investment.
completely understand and agree... thanks for the info. i'm not doing it just for economy, i actually am more excited about a possible range increase for toodling in the sticks... but some power plus not worse mpg is A-ok with me.
- Thread starter
- #174
first video. Excuse the shaky camera action. I was trying to do this with my iphone
0mph to about 80 and I let off. The motor was pinging a little. I am running 85 octane at the moment. It doesn't ping with 87.
1994 Toyota Land Cruiser with Vortec L33 5.3l V8 - YouTube
0-60 in a few seconds instead odd a few minutes! Sweet
alia176
SILVER Star
rockrod said:
first video. Excuse the shaky camera action. I was trying to do this with my iphone
0mph to about 80 and I let off. The motor was pinging a little. I am running 85 octane at the moment. It doesn't ping with 87.
1994 Toyota Land Cruiser with Vortec L33 5.3l V8 - YouTube
Good grief, I've never seen my speed climb that fast, ever!
- Thread starter
- #178
not sure on the 60 - it very well could be a different thread. on the 80, it's 10 x 1 mm.
- Thread starter
- #179
