1993 Land Cruiser, first purchase!

[toastyjosh]

Yes sir PB blaster is your friend!!!
If your frame has any kind of rust spray it down with fluid film, its cheap and it works. I got it a lowes I think.
FLUID FILM | Powerful Corrosion Protection & Lubrication

seats adapters

Toyota Land Cruiser FJ80 90-97 Seat Brackets

Over 50 years of providing the world with the best in aftermarket Street Seats, Racing Seats, Off Road Seats, Jeep Seats, Suspension seats, Seat Brackets, Harness Belts and more.

corbeau.com

Planted Technology 80 Series Land Cruiser Seat Bracket - Passenger/Right

Check out Metal Tech 4x4—your home for high end off road parts and accessories, specializing in Toyota. Browse our selection of off road products today.

www.metaltech4x4.com

 

[FJlandCruiser]

So last night went decent.
I had the battery on charge, and threw it back in last night.
Truck ran much smoother. It even idled much better, which surprised me. I only had about 45 minutes with it, but it was nice to have it idle.
I was able to check some little stuff, windshield wipers work.

Brake need a major overhaul.
The truck stops, but it doesn’t want to. Peddle is soft for about 3 inches and then it firms up a tad. I even at slow speeds I can’t slow down from 10mph in less than 10 feet.

I also saw that window motors seem to be a pretty easy fix. That will definitely be on my list because all but the driver window are down about 1 inch and won’t go all the way up!

 

[sogafarm]

Would be a good idea to use a voltmeter and test your voltage at the battery and at the alternator when engine is running. You mentioned various dash items were not working. I just replaced my brushes in the alternator and it fixed several gremlins. Also clean up your air filter housing and blow out or replace the filter and the little dust box on the underside. Ditto on checking for cracks in the intake air plenum.

 

[toastyjosh]

I agree with sogafarm on the brushes.

Alternator brush replacement

Testing out my new ARB and Engo winch, the 80 got quite a bit of mud and sludge up in the engine compartment. About 10 miles down the road my charging light came on and I was getting around 9.5V while running. I suspected it got really wet and dirty and didn't think much of it except for...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[fjbj40]

You will learn lots working on a cruiser.

However, a $1000 budget is not going to go far especially if you want a safe reliable DD. Not trying to scare you, just being truthful!

Post questions for help and you will receive it! Lots of great folks here with many years of Land Cruiser experience

 

[FJlandCruiser]

You will learn lots working on a cruiser.

However, a $1000 budget is not going to go far especially if you want a safe reliable DD. Not trying to scare you, just being truthful!

Post questions for help and you will receive it! Lots of great folks here with many years of Land Cruiser experience

Hey! That’s the information I need.
Im going to start working and if I get to the point where I’m in too deep, I’ve always got the option of posting for sale and falling back into my backup plan. A 2002 Toyota Camry. Lol
CERTAINLY not what I want, but likely the safer and smarter option.

as for voltmeter, I’ve never used one! So that is intimidating. *i havnt searched yet* but where do you test the voltage coming off the alternator

im planning on replacing all vacuum lines.

next weekend will be my first real time with the truck to go over it.

 

[sogafarm]

www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200642636_200642636
You can find voltmeters at any auto supply store for cheap. A neccessity when testing electical connections for current and resistance.
Check the positive terminal on the battery and the terminal at the alternator that has the wire going to the battery. should read around 13 volts or more. If less than 12 volts then it's not charging properly. Low voltage can also be caused by weak Brushes, a $20 part from the toyota dealer. When there is a low voltage problem then several gremlins will present themselves, including dash lights, speedometer, tachometer, brake lights, etc.

Pic is of the alternator brushes old and new. this is what rubs against the copper center and creates DC current that charges battery.

In this pic of the alternator, the part in the center are the old brushes, two small screws to remove and replace with new brushes. This only takes 5 minutes. Taking out the alternator takes a lot more time, depending on your skill level. Lots of threads on this site on how to do this. I think it would be possible to replace the brushes without taking the alternator out of the vehicle, but very limited room to maneuver. It is very easy to replace with alternator removed.

Hey! That’s the information I need.
Im going to start working and if I get to the point where I’m in too deep, I’ve always got the option of posting for sale and falling back into my backup plan. A 2002 Toyota Camry. Lol
CERTAINLY not what I want, but likely the safer and smarter option.

as for voltmeter, I’ve never used one! So that is intimidating. *i havnt searched yet* but where do you test the voltage coming off the alternator

im planning on replacing all vacuum lines.

next weekend will be my first real time with the truck to go over it.

 

[FJlandCruiser]

www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200642636_200642636
You can find voltmeters at any auto supply store for cheap. A neccessity when testing electical connections for current and resistance.
Check the positive terminal on the battery and the terminal at the alternator that has the wire going to the battery. should read around 13 volts or more. If less than 12 volts then it's not charging properly. Low voltage can also be caused by weak Brushes, a $20 part from the toyota dealer. When there is a low voltage problem then several gremlins will present themselves, including dash lights, speedometer, tachometer, brake lights, etc.

Pic is of the alternator brushes old and new. this is what rubs against the copper center and creates DC current that charges battery.
View attachment 2284283
In this pic of the alternator, the part in the center are the old brushes, two small screws to remove and replace with new brushes. This only takes 5 minutes. Taking out the alternator takes a lot more time, depending on your skill level. Lots of threads on this site on how to do this. I think it would be possible to replace the brushes without taking the alternator out of the vehicle, but very limited room to maneuver. It is very easy to replace with alternator removed.
View attachment 2284284

You guys have been so helpful so quickly. I’m trying to do a bit of planning before hand so when I have time to work on the vehicle, I’ve got some sort of plan.
Y’all are saving me some hours in that search box and I am extremely thankful for that.

 

[fjbj40]

Do yourself a favour and research the vacuum hose replacement. The hoses under the manifold will be a challenge.

 

[FJlandCruiser]

Alright - well it's been a few days but I've not had any time to mess with anything until today. Still only had about 90 minutes today and spent about 60 detailing it (it was in very rough shape). That looks much better now.

However, the dying at idle has gotten much, much worse. The other night I was able to drive the truck fine and it was holding an idle. It was a high idle, but it was idling. I could rev it a bit, and it wouldn't die. Now, I can barely keep it idling while giving it 20% throttle. I have to spike the RPM's and then keep the throttle at a constant 30%+ to keep it alive, and it will run at 1500 rpms.

So, something is obviously wrong. I'm starting my search now as I have this week every day after work to get it going. Going to look at MAF, Idle Air control Valve, and then replace all the vacuum lines I can. Hopefully this helps.
Also, brakes are bad. Pedal essentially goes completely to the floor. I'm planning on changing all fluids this weekend. But I fear it's more involved than that.

I fear I'm in over my head, but I'm going to start trying to tackle one problem at a time and see where that gets me. There are just so many problems I feel overwhelmed - only in the sense I'm trying to use this as a DD and I'm in sort of a time crunch to get this all sorted with very limited time to work on it.

 

[FJlandCruiser]

Alright!
So y'all are getting updates as I work on it whether anyone cares or not!!

Today I was able to look at some stuff I'd researched. I had planned to clean out the MAF and the Throttle Body, then to look for air leaks past that if it was still running real rough.
The air hose running from the MAF sensor to the Throttle body itself was completely cut in half!!!

I threw some tape on it to keep troubleshooting while providing a 'seal' and bam! SO MUCH BETTER.

However, I didnt stop there. I continued to look over a few things. PO stated he replaced distributor cap, wires, and plugs. Never paid much attention to them other than looking at the wires and noticing they did look new.
Slap in front of my face, on cylinder 1 the damn ignition coil was sticking up about 1 full inch from the top of the valve cover.

The boot is broken off and still around the spark plug. I don't have any long nose pliers, so tomorrow I'll grab some and try to remove.

Having said that, with a MASSIVE air leak and down 1 full cylinder...this SOB still ran. Albeit, rough, but dammit it still ran.

So lots of the vacuum lines are very hard and I have a vacuum line kit in the mail to me, I'll likely replace all of them. I need to order a new hose for the throttle body or see if I can find a used one in decent shape.

Anways, here are a few photos! I'm stoked to be making some slow progress.

 

[FJlandCruiser]

Alternator does not seem to be charging battery at all. So I'll look into what @sogafarm mentioned. I've got new belts coming anyways, so that will be a good time to try and tackle that I suppose.

I have some fusible links on the way as well, and I have a found a lot of information about replacing them and thats a big first step, and I need to keep one in my glove box, etc etc.
However, I'm not entirely sure 1. what a fusible link is (i've read some about what it is, but it's still new to me) 2. how many there are on this truck 3. where they are all located to even go about replacing them once I have them in hand.

 

[PIG PUNISHER]

I’ll try to answer a few questions if I can. The fusible link is located at the positive battery terminal. Easy to replace. Hopefully new brushes in the alternator will remedy the charging issue. It should. I recently saw new throttle body hoses for sale somewhere. May have been wits end. Can’t remember but they are available. I know you’re on a budget but I would spring for as many oem parts as I could afford. You can buy many denso and aisin branded parts that are the same as oem but you’ll have to research it. That’ll save you some money. Just my .02. Get on top of the cooling system. These trucks do not like high temps, summer is coming and you’re in Florida. Don’t want to lose a head gasket on your only ride. Good luck to you and welcome to land cruiser ownership.

 

[BILT4ME]

Rubber parts are very competitive for OEM parts from www.partsouq.com. (Intake hose, suspension bushings, coolant hoses, engine and transmission mounts)

Get OEM parts in the USA from McGeorge Toyota. Plug wires, cap rotor should be Toyota, as these don't like aftermarket versions of them.

Shop OEM Toyota Parts Online | Ourisman Toyota Parts

Find Genuine OEM Toyota Parts and Accessories When You Shop Online. This Toyota Parts Catalog Includes Discounted Quality Parts You Can Trust To Perfectly Fit Your Vehicle!

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

There is only one bundle of the fusible links. Each one protects a different circuit in the truck. Sometimes if you lose just your clock, dome light, and door locks it's one of the FL. But they still need to be replaced as a set. They are still a fuse. No different. If they see too much current draw, they will burn out. Then they need replaced.

 

[GSTMike]

All of those connectors you have pictured would go to the ABS module, I don't know if these things came without ABS or not as an option but if it was supposed to have ABS and someone deleted it it's possible they didn't do it right or it's never been bleed properly since deleting it.

Given the state of your AFM to throttle body hose I would certainly suggest that obviously replacing that but also going through all of the vacuum lines as I'll bet there's a few with issues!

Once you get that plug boot out I would also pull the plug and at least verify it does appear to have been changed, me personally looking at it currently I'd probably buy a new set of plugs and some wires and just replace them all anyway (This approach obviously won't help you budget goals though as it's surprising how quickly everything adds up!)

 

[sogafarm]

Alright!
So y'all are getting updates as I work on it whether anyone cares or not!!

Today I was able to look at some stuff I'd researched. I had planned to clean out the MAF and the Throttle Body, then to look for air leaks past that if it was still running real rough.
The air hose running from the MAF sensor to the Throttle body itself was completely cut in half!!!

I threw some tape on it to keep troubleshooting while providing a 'seal' and bam! SO MUCH BETTER.

However, I didnt stop there. I continued to look over a few things. PO stated he replaced distributor cap, wires, and plugs. Never paid much attention to them other than looking at the wires and noticing they did look new.
Slap in front of my face, on cylinder 1 the damn ignition coil was sticking up about 1 full inch from the top of the valve cover.

The boot is broken off and still around the spark plug. I don't have any long nose pliers, so tomorrow I'll grab some and try to remove.

Having said that, with a MASSIVE air leak and down 1 full cylinder...this SOB still ran. Albeit, rough, but dammit it still ran.

So lots of the vacuum lines are very hard and I have a vacuum line kit in the mail to me, I'll likely replace all of them. I need to order a new hose for the throttle body or see if I can find a used one in decent shape.

Anways, here are a few photos! I'm stoked to be making some slow progress.

View attachment 2290143

View attachment 2290144

View attachment 2290146

View attachment 2290147

View attachment 2290148

Looks like your on the right track now. You found a few known issues and are in the process of remedying them, Good Job! This is how it should go, Observe, diagnose, and fix and/or replace the easiest problems first. Your on your way to a reliable ride. Keep at it!

 

[FJlandCruiser]

Once you get that plug boot out I would also pull the plug and at least verify it does appear to have been changed, me personally looking at it currently I'd probably buy a new set of plugs and some wires and just replace them all anyway (This approach obviously won't help you budget goals though as it's surprising how quickly everything adds up!)

That’s so right. The cost is adding up quickly, but I’m in the ballpark still.
I’ve got a spreadsheet that’s showing my cost on everything, and assuming the brush for the alternator works out, I’ll be sitting at $4550 in this vehicle. That’s addressing brakes, intake, battery cables, belts, seat brackets, fusible end links, rear hatch handle, and a few other small ends here and there.
At that point assuming it’s running and driving okay, I’ll want to address the windows. None but the driver window work and two slide down about an inch.
I’m hoping the sunroof leak is due to clogged drains, and that will end up being a free fix. If not, some RTV sealant should do the trick for $5...

I’ll still want to throw about $350 at all my fluids to get changed, but that’s normal maintenance I’d do with any vehicle (there’s just a lot more fluid in this beast).

So, say I’m in this truck for $6,000 and it’s got power windows and new front seats. Basic maintenance done and it runs and drives well. 181k miles, what would this thing be worth??

 

[GSTMike]

So, say I’m in this truck for $6,000 and it’s got power windows and new front seats. Basic maintenance done and it runs and drives well. 181k miles, what would this thing be worth??

Whatever someone will pay for it

 

[BILT4ME]

Realistic price for an FJ80 or FZJ80 ?

I'm interested in picking up an 80 series but im not entirely sure what realistic numbers look like for these rigs. Of course I would love to find a triple locked FZJ80 with the 1FZ in perfect condition, but I'm seeing more and more non factory locked higher mileage stock 80s in CA. What would...

forum.ih8mud.com

11k (CAD) negotiable for high milage 94 worth it ?

Hey guys, I'm totally new to this so go easy on me - I've been forum diving for the past two weeks on here and google. I just wanted a second opinion from this awesome community on this; also taking it to a special off road mech here in vancouver BC in a couple of days...

forum.ih8mud.com

Whats my vehicle's worth? Need expert's opinion!

Hi guys, I need your expertise. I have a clean 93, stock, triple locker FZJ80. 3 owners (me being the 3rd-owned for a month) with a clean record. 1st owner was the uncle of the 2nd owner who owned it for 26yrs and always had it serviced at a dealership(carfax). 2nd owner the nephew owned it for...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[FJlandCruiser]

Realistic price for an FJ80 or FZJ80 ?

I'm interested in picking up an 80 series but im not entirely sure what realistic numbers look like for these rigs. Of course I would love to find a triple locked FZJ80 with the 1FZ in perfect condition, but I'm seeing more and more non factory locked higher mileage stock 80s in CA. What would...

forum.ih8mud.com

11k (CAD) negotiable for high milage 94 worth it ?

Hey guys, I'm totally new to this so go easy on me - I've been forum diving for the past two weeks on here and google. I just wanted a second opinion from this awesome community on this; also taking it to a special off road mech here in vancouver BC in a couple of days...

forum.ih8mud.com

Whats my vehicle's worth? Need expert's opinion!

Hi guys, I need your expertise. I have a clean 93, stock, triple locker FZJ80. 3 owners (me being the 3rd-owned for a month) with a clean record. 1st owner was the uncle of the 2nd owner who owned it for 26yrs and always had it serviced at a dealership(carfax). 2nd owner the nephew owned it for...

forum.ih8mud.com

That first link had one post that was exactly what I’m looking for.
If I clean this up and it’s reliable and sub 200k miles, in the condition it’s in I’d feel safe it’s worth at least $6,000. Maybe $7,000 if I’m lucky.
Either way, I’m just trying to make sure I’m not making myself go very upside down on it as I continue to fix some stuff.

@BILT4ME thank you so much!