The real check is to contact your insurance agent and find out what value they currently show if you total your truck.
1993 Land Cruiser, first purchase!
- Thread starter FJlandCruiser
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- Thread starter
- #42
When you say get on top of the cooling system, is this more involved than flushing the system?
The fan works and I’m not too sure past that. 100% of my experience with water pumps have been timing belt driven. I don’t even know where the water pump is on this.
Coolant flush is certainly on my list, but I didn’t have much past that.
Coolant flush is a good place to start. Check and or replace the PHH. Plan a whole day for that task. Make sure your fan clutch is working well but most importantly. Monitor engine temperature. Not with your factory gauge either. Get an accurate temp gauge. Plenty of threads on all of these subjects. Not trying to scare you just inform you.
- Thread starter
- #44
PHH - had to look up what that was. Didn’t read too much. I’ll do some reading on that as well.
Not scared. All of my experience is from Mazda where the factory temp gauge is either normal or blown head gasket. It gives you zero real world info, but it’ll spike up when it’s too late!
That sounds good tho. I can add in a gauge pretty easily. I’ll do some research on that, hopefully after it’s running decent!
- Thread starter
- #45
Alright - had some more time this evening. Prepped some things to wait on some parts (spark plugs, wires, throttle body intake hose, fusible link)
And I learned a lot tonight.
1. Spark plugs didn’t look too old, but I’m not sure what happened. From left to right is cylinder 6 to 1. Look closely at the spark plug from cyl 1 ????
Cylinder 6 was the only non denso plug.
2. Fusible link is toast (id imagine)
3. Found a brake line leak. Was inspecting the brakes because as previously stated, there are none. Go to checking, if needed some fluid. I added some, pumped the brakes, it needed more. Added some, pumped the brakes. And it looked pretty good.
then I thought to myself....if I’m adding that much fluid.....this didn’t burn off. It’s going somewhere. So I started looking. Didn’t take long. A line going to the rear brakes was leaking right above the rear axel.
4. How do you reach to remove the positive line going to the starter?!? That looks insane. I’m not sure how to reach it!
And I learned a lot tonight.
1. Spark plugs didn’t look too old, but I’m not sure what happened. From left to right is cylinder 6 to 1. Look closely at the spark plug from cyl 1 ????
Cylinder 6 was the only non denso plug.
2. Fusible link is toast (id imagine)
3. Found a brake line leak. Was inspecting the brakes because as previously stated, there are none. Go to checking, if needed some fluid. I added some, pumped the brakes, it needed more. Added some, pumped the brakes. And it looked pretty good.
then I thought to myself....if I’m adding that much fluid.....this didn’t burn off. It’s going somewhere. So I started looking. Didn’t take long. A line going to the rear brakes was leaking right above the rear axel.
4. How do you reach to remove the positive line going to the starter?!? That looks insane. I’m not sure how to reach it!
I would honestly replace the master cylinder, booster, rebuild/buy new calipers if you are seeing uneven pad wear, stainless steel lines, new pads, and buy a cheap Harbor Freight vacuum hand pump to bleed the crap out of the brakes.
Personally I deleted the ABS pump/ABS sensors and the LSPV. This made a world of difference with my LC, if it means anything if I am not careful I can lock up 35s.
Remove the driver side wheel and the dust cover in the wheel well to get to the starter. You can also remove the one bolt from the trans dip stick and pivot it out of the way
Before you do anything else I would scope cylinder one. Something is definitely in there to make the spark plug look like that.
And to answer your question about the cable to the starter, you can reach it through the wheel well.
Yeah, that was a hard hit. I was originally thinking a chunk of carbon, but that's a shiny scrape and it was big enough to smash the tip. I would be concerned it may be a chunk of a ring or a valve.
- Thread starter
- #50
Brand new
Milwaukee M-Spector 3 ft. Inspection Camera Scope Kit 2309-20 - The Home Depot
The Milwaukee M-Spector Inspection Scope Kit delivers professional diagnostics in hard-to-reach places. With the smallest camera head in its class (9 mm Dia), the M-Spector allows you to quickly inspect
www.homedepot.com
I've used this one before. Not too horrible. It takes a bit to figure out how to use it, but it's easy and has OK resolution.
Maybe you can rent one from Home Depot? Maybe worth buying? I used one to track down a leak on a bathtub without ripping out the wall. Went down through the valve area and determined it wasn't the tub at all! Win!
- Thread starter
- #52
If it was a chunk of a ring and I’m able to clean it out without tearing down the engine, hypothetically it’ll still run, it just won’t be as efficient.
correct?
I understand this isn’t ideal, but given a time crunch and budget crunch, in a bind, I could drive it. Just a matter of how long could I drive it...
Seeing as the plugs are out might be worth doing a leakdown test or at least a compression test
If it's a chunk of a ring, it ain't gonna last long......
I use a scope similar to this.
Amazon product ASIN B00STB0EW6
You can sell the bumper to help pay for repairs, but judging from the missing ABS module and other indicators..... This will require a few grand before it could be safely driven as a DD.
Amazon product ASIN B00STB0EW6
You can sell the bumper to help pay for repairs, but judging from the missing ABS module and other indicators..... This will require a few grand before it could be safely driven as a DD.
very interested in what you find out too.
What is wrong with not having the ABS pump/module in there? I and a few others have deleted the ABS from our rigs without any issues. It just takes a caring touch to not brake hard enough to lock up the brakes. I daily drive mine in rain and take it up to the Arizona high country to play in the snow with no issues.
Nothing, except the way it was done and all the other issues.
- Thread starter
- #59
I guess i need to take the valve cover off - however, I'm not sure that will even achieve what I need.
I just put in a different spark plug and it bent it the same way (not as bad because I didn't tighten it much). All I did was vacuum out the hole and removed the original broken piece from the plug, screw in the new plug, and tried to seat the plug wire. Then remove.
I did not run the engine. And looking down into where it screws in, I can see something. It almost looks like an upside down socket in that space where the ignition coil would fit around the base of the exposed spark plug. However, it's likely not just a socket.
But something is there that is not allowing the ignition coil to seat properly. I suspect that is the same thing that's causing the spark plug issue as well.
What confuses me, the plug still threads in.
I cannot grab whatever is down there with the pair of long nose pliers I have. I'm really not trying to tear this thing down to fix it, but I'm not too sure what my next step needs to be.
Going to try and fish a magnet down there shortly and cross my fingers, but not too optimistic.
I just put in a different spark plug and it bent it the same way (not as bad because I didn't tighten it much). All I did was vacuum out the hole and removed the original broken piece from the plug, screw in the new plug, and tried to seat the plug wire. Then remove.
I did not run the engine. And looking down into where it screws in, I can see something. It almost looks like an upside down socket in that space where the ignition coil would fit around the base of the exposed spark plug. However, it's likely not just a socket.
But something is there that is not allowing the ignition coil to seat properly. I suspect that is the same thing that's causing the spark plug issue as well.
What confuses me, the plug still threads in.
I cannot grab whatever is down there with the pair of long nose pliers I have. I'm really not trying to tear this thing down to fix it, but I'm not too sure what my next step needs to be.
Going to try and fish a magnet down there shortly and cross my fingers, but not too optimistic.
If you need a physical copy of the fsm and ewd for the 1993 fzj80 I have one I could sell.
