1993 Land Cruiser, first purchase!

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Alright - so decent news!!!!!!

One of my friends said it could be a helicoil. So I started thinking.
I was able to thread in a new spark plug. But, it'd crush itself when you tighten it (without the engine running).

After about two hours of scratching my head, thinking I'd have to take the head off...I thought...what if there is a helicoil and it just won't allow you to tighten it down all the way...Maybe it's not centered over the cylinder or something. I'm not too sure.

I put in another new plug, and I made sure the ignition coil was making full contact - keep in mind it is still sticking up about an inch above the valve cover, but the plug is in and undamaged, the coil is on and its making contact, so there should be spark.
whatever is in there, has to be some sort of new thread for the spark plug. And it doesnt allow the plug to be seated as deep into the head as the rest of the cylinders. But it was worth a try.

AND

It worked
- it's now running on 6 cylinders. I heard something, resembled a very very slight knock. Let idle for about 30 seconds. Rev'd it up to about 3200 rpm's, the sound suddenly stopped and the truck continued to idle perfectly; minus the small vacuum leaks I still have (which will be remedied here soon). I figure whatever it was, was floating around from the broken spark plug and it got spat out the exhaust.

I'm so relieved right now - and this truck feels SO much better on 6 cylinders haha.
Now to fix the alternator and I think I'm good to begin daily driving!!!!! Going to keep working on it this weekend to see what I can get done.
 
Alright - so decent news!!!!!!

One of my friends said it could be a helicoil. So I started thinking.
I was able to thread in a new spark plug. But, it'd crush itself when you tighten it (without the engine running).

After about two hours of scratching my head, thinking I'd have to take the head off...I thought...what if there is a helicoil and it just won't allow you to tighten it down all the way...Maybe it's not centered over the cylinder or something. I'm not too sure.

I put in another new plug, and I made sure the ignition coil was making full contact - keep in mind it is still sticking up about an inch above the valve cover, but the plug is in and undamaged, the coil is on and its making contact, so there should be spark.
whatever is in there, has to be some sort of new thread for the spark plug. And it doesnt allow the plug to be seated as deep into the head as the rest of the cylinders. But it was worth a try.

AND

It worked
- it's now running on 6 cylinders. I heard something, resembled a very very slight knock. Let idle for about 30 seconds. Rev'd it up to about 3200 rpm's, the sound suddenly stopped and the truck continued to idle perfectly; minus the small vacuum leaks I still have (which will be remedied here soon). I figure whatever it was, was floating around from the broken spark plug and it got spat out the exhaust.

I'm so relieved right now - and this truck feels SO much better on 6 cylinders haha.
Now to fix the alternator and I think I'm good to begin daily driving!!!!! Going to keep working on it this weekend to see what I can get done.




Now would be a very good time to do a oil change and look for metal. Also cut the oil filter case off and check the filter media.



 
Now would be a very good time to do a oil change and look for metal. Also cut the oil filter case off and check the filter media.





good tip - once I get all the quirks worked out, then I’ll change the oil.
since I’m still waiting on new brushes for the alternator, I’m not driving it.

I’m going to try and take the alternator brush off without removing the alternator from the truck. Taking the filter off gives me more room...maybe Ill go ahead and tackle that now actually.
 
Good deal. Strain oil and times two on cutting filter
 
how has it been?
Slow.
I had to fight to get the filter off and it ended up getting destroyed.
I’ll drain the oil through a coffee filter to see if I can find anything that way.
Now I’m just waiting on parts.

15DD4F37-3566-454C-BF75-2C1BC079EDFC.webp

How does this look? Does this look like this could be causing my alternator issues??? I sure hope so! New brush comes in Friday, kind want to fast forward.

E5FF919A-33A9-466E-AEB7-EC0D324DC17A.webp

Installed new throttle body hose.
 
ive never tore apart an alternator so no help there
 
Slow.
I had to fight to get the filter off and it ended up getting destroyed.
I’ll drain the oil through a coffee filter to see if I can find anything that way.
Now I’m just waiting on parts.

View attachment 2296356
How does this look? Does this look like this could be causing my alternator issues??? I sure hope so! New brush comes in Friday, kind want to fast forward.

View attachment 2296359
Installed new throttle body hose.
yeah, you could use new brushes. Mine were worse and my alternator quit working completely. It's a sub $20 part so go ahead and replace them. Were you able to get to the alternater without taking it out completely?

IMG_1557.JPG
 
yeah, you could use new brushes. Mine were worse and my alternator quit working completely. It's a sub $20 part so go ahead and replace them. Were you able to get to the alternater without taking it out completely?

View attachment 2296468
Yup. Alternator is still in the truck and the brush is out.
Ive got new brush on order. Just hope that fixes it. My alternator doesn’t work at all. I’m hoping this is the fix.
I cleaned the rod (not sure exactly what it is) that the brush rotates around. It was dirty but it’s clean now. Hope that helps make better contact.
 
yeah, you could use new brushes. Mine were worse and my alternator quit working completely. It's a sub $20 part so go ahead and replace them. Were you able to get to the alternater without taking it out completely?

View attachment 2296468
No luck.
Brush came in today and I threw it on, no dice.
The truck ran nicely, but after about 20 minutes the lights started to dim (driving it tonight). Have the battery on the charger tonight and picking up a local alternator in the morning. Going to try and swap it out after work tomorrow.
Also found another break line leak. Pass side rear hard line just before the caliper.
So close, yet still so far. :(

Got new window motors installed tho! Pretty easy swap. DEFINITELY need a thread somewhere about replacing these and what not to do - don’t remove remove the glass from the metal and rubber channel it seats in. Unbolt that from the regulator itself and leave on the glass. Fought with that for 90 minutes before I realized I could unbolt it, take the window out of the door, and slide it on. I may try and write something up on this, but I didn’t take any photos.
 
No luck.
Brush came in today and I threw it on, no dice.
The truck ran nicely, but after about 20 minutes the lights started to dim (driving it tonight). Have the battery on the charger tonight and picking up a local alternator in the morning. Going to try and swap it out after work tomorrow.
Also found another break line leak. Pass side rear hard line just before the caliper.
So close, yet still so far. :(

Got new window motors installed tho! Pretty easy swap. DEFINITELY need a thread somewhere about replacing these and what not to do - don’t remove remove the glass from the metal and rubber channel it seats in. Unbolt that from the regulator itself and leave on the glass. Fought with that for 90 minutes before I realized I could unbolt it, take the window out of the door, and slide it on. I may try and write something up on this, but I didn’t take any photos.
Keep the new brushes before your turn your old alternater in for deposite. Keep them in the cruiser just in case you have a problem down the road. Good time to change belts if you haven't already. Check the voltage coming from the old alternator before you swap to make sure thats what's wrong. should be 13v + coming from the positive terminal of the alternator while running. Also not sure if you've replaced the fusible link yet, but it should be replaced as well.
 
Alright. Well....good things and bad things. Pretty normal I’d suppose!
Truck is running great! Fires right off and idles nicely. Engine issues seem to be fixed for now.

Brake lines - can’t break them free. Fittings are rusted in place so I’m not sure how to go about replacing my leaking line.

I joined the No D Club today. :( No D or N. P and R still work. Havnt tried the dash smack yet.
also, since I got the truck the A/T Oil light has been on, today it’s off. It turned off after the alternator was swapped. Nothing else changed.
Fusible link was changed about 3 days ago.
Fuel gauge doesn’t work - didn’t work when I bought.
Brake light is on. But I’m having brake issues, so that’s fitting. Even if it’s just on to be on...
D74481A1-B0AE-4DEF-BB7C-40B9A3C4D20E.webp
 
If the brake fittings are that rusty then just replace it all! They are really nice things to have :hillbilly:
 
If the brake fittings are that rusty then just replace it all! They are really nice things to have :hillbilly:
I agree!! I’ll be there soon. There is no ABS and I think I’d be able to just run a line straight back with one T to supply both rear calipers. Havnt looked at the front lines at all to see what I’d be up against.
 


 
I learned today. Not sure where I’m at now.

There is NOT a helicoil in the head. What is in the head is a non fouler insert.
1. I’m not sure why it’s there.
2. I’m not sure how to get it out.

Now I’m kind of back to square one, but at least I know what I’m dealing with.


Anyone have any pointers?? I’ve got a few ideas but I’m kind of poking around blind tbh.
 

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