Builds 1990 FJ62 5.3 and H55

[onemanarmy]

Bit more thinking about my oil pressure gauge issue......is the stock oil pressure gauge a known fail point? I have 1 wire running from the sender that is mounted above the oil filter to the factory yellow/black stripe wire (spliced properly). Is there supposed to be a ground wire in the oil pressure sender/gauge circuit? As I stated before, the gauge comes to life every once in a while, rises about a 1/10th the way up for a few seconds then falls back to zero. Once in a blue moon it will read accurate for a few seconds and then falls back to zero. Acts like a temp grounding fault?

Thanks

 

[doug720]

There are 2 spade lugs on the stock 60 oil sender. If the wire is connected to the wrong spade, it kills the oil pressure gauge. It's been awhile, so I'm not positive which spade is used, but someone will chime in.

 

[cruisermatt]

Bit more thinking about my oil pressure gauge issue......is the stock oil pressure gauge a known fail point? I have 1 wire running from the sender that is mounted above the oil filter to the factory yellow/black stripe wire (spliced properly). Is there supposed to be a ground wire in the oil pressure sender/gauge circuit? As I stated before, the gauge comes to life every once in a while, rises about a 1/10th the way up for a few seconds then falls back to zero. Once in a blue moon it will read accurate for a few seconds and then falls back to zero. Acts like a temp grounding fault?

Thanks

the the voltage of that yellow/black wire. Should be +12V when key-on.
The sender is supposed to ground thru the block/threads. Check the sender body for resistance to battery ground. There is a second spade on the sender body for running a extra ground wire but should be unnecessary if your engine is running it should have at least decent ground thru the block.

Sounds like you just have a poor connection thru the wire.

 

[onemanarmy]

There are 2 spade lugs on the stock 60 oil sender. If the wire is connected to the wrong spade, it kills the oil pressure gauge. It's been awhile, so I'm not positive which spade is used, but someone will chime in.

Thanks. I do not know if the sender I have is the stock fj62 sender. It looks like it could be. The company that did my v8 swap may have drilled and tapped the oil filter housing for the stock sender, but who knows. The wire is attached to the center top of the sender via a slide on spade type connector. I've taken it off and rotated on the terminal to try and remove any gunk or corrosion that may have built up. That did not help.

 

[doug720]

The picture looks like a stock sender.

Did the stock OP gauge ever work properly post swap, or is this a new problem? If someone connected the wire to the wrong post, it actually kills the dash gauge. There may be a way to fix the gauge, but most replace dash cluster.

 

[onemanarmy]

The picture looks like a stock sender.

Did the stock OP gauge ever work properly post swap, or is this a new problem? If someone connected the wire to the wrong post, it actually kills the dash gauge. There may be a way to fix the gauge, but most replace dash cluster.

the gauge used to work, now it moves just a bit off the bottom line occasionaly, but drops back down.
The plan is to try a new gauge (temp. aftermarket, just to see) to determine if its the gauge or the sender

 

[onemanarmy]

Been refurbishing some Aussie sliders....slowly.

Got the windows from another user here, that were already in the States. They were in OK condition but worn out. They do have some sweet AUS surfing co. stickers that will stay.

I ordered:
Window channel from rock auto: Fairchild 06378. (2) 8ft pieces. I had 1.5 inch left over.
Replacement pile for the vertical posts: from amazon: .270" backing, .200 pile height. CRL 'zipper pile'. It comes in 100ft rolls, I needed 5 ft.
Generic D shaped bulb seal from amazon that has a sticky side: Amazon product ASIN B007ZVR44W3M buytl rubber strips for holding the window in: Amazon product ASIN B000CQ4ANUU-Shaped trim for capturing the inside edges, qty-2:
Trim
Heavy Duty Plastic, 5/16" Wide X 9/16" High Inside, 10 ft. Length
24175K17

So far I've taken them apart, cleaned and painted the metal, and put one back together. The butyl rubber is quite a job to remove fully. I've read of people getting the glass out and back in by themselves, but I could not. A helper is 100% needed in my opinion. You have to really pull the frames apart to get the glass out and back in. I guess you could rig up a spreader of some sort if you have the room. I just pulled up in the middle of the frames )with my feet holding the frames down) and had someone gently pull the glass out from inside the old weather strip. The new weatherstrip is TIGHT, so its even trickier to get the new glass in and keep the weatherstrip in place. I did not use any adhesive to hold the window/baily channel in place. I did use a fresh razor blade to cut holes for the vertical posts, the drain holes, and for the window clips.

They are not installed on the truck yet but wanted to get the write up going.

Toyota lists some different year ranges for the sliders, and there are slight differences through the years, but I don't know what years mean what parts. The # of screws holding the vertical posts are different (2 vs. 4) and the latches are different, but that makes no difference when rebuilding. The frames and dimensions are the same.

The blue tape shows where the D-shaped weatherstip is from the factory, to help seal/center the window along the top. The bottom has 4 rubber wedges that help center the window that were in OK shape so I left them.

 

[onemanarmy]

More original conditon:

On the bottom of my windows I had some additional 'packing' that I had not seen on other rebuild threads. I thought I found the P/N for it in Toyodiy, but when it arrived, it was a small rubber wedge, smaller than what I have. What I am trying to replace is a 1ft strip, but with the wedges I don't think it is necessary....and wasn't even on some year windows.

 

[onemanarmy]

few more:

Here you can see where you need to repicate the corner cuts on the new weatherstrip (baily channel)

I had 4 screws total per window.

 

[onemanarmy]

So the slider rear windows are taking longer...I had to order the proper rubber from AUS. It's here now and I'll get back at it.

Small wins though...

 

[onemanarmy]

Finally got the cargo sliders in. I rebuilt them completely. Hardest part was getting the old window glue and headliner glue off the body before the slider install. Both sides have old school AUS stickerson them. Gonna leave those on.

 

[Tennessee80]

Finally got the cargo sliders in. I rebuilt them completely. Hardest part was getting the old window glue and headliner glue off the body before the slider install. Both sides have old school AUS stickerson them. Gonna leave those on.

View attachment 3231822

View attachment 3231823

Those look really great!

 

[onemanarmy]

does anyone know the size or p/n of this castle nut that connects the tie rods to the pitman arm? 1989 FJ62. mine is busted

thanks!

 

[onemanarmy]

Cool cool. Figured it out.

M14-1.5 thread castle nut

 

[dbbowen]

Finally got the cargo sliders in. I rebuilt them completely. Hardest part was getting the old window glue and headliner glue off the body before the slider install. Both sides have old school AUS stickerson them. Gonna leave those on.

View attachment 3231822

View attachment 3231823

I dont know how i didnt see your thread. awesome job on the windows, i just did this myself and they are an absolute game changer. Kinda crazy to see how different they all are. My sliders only had one screw per side!

 

[onemanarmy]

So still trying to diag my sucky brakes
Swapped in a City Racer booster and autozone master cylinder a few years ago, bled the system 5-6 times, but could never get solid brake feel. Th LSPV is still in the system and the system is in good shape otherwise.

New front calipers and pads a few years ago too. I only drive it 500 miles a year or so.

As long as I've owned the truck, and for sure after the booster swap, when I turn the engine off (and my foot is still on the brake pedal) i get a pretty big 'sucking' sound from the booster side ( i have a open element K/N on the booster side too) and the brake pedal pushes back on me and I loose all brake boost....the pedal gets rock hard.

Added a vid link to what it sounds like

I have sprayed some starting fluid near the booster and vacuum hose with the engine running and no change. It will sit and idle 750 RPMs all day long and runs great otherwise....no weird surges or sounds or stumbling......so I've all but ruled out a vacuum leak.....but where does the reserve vacuum go once the engine is off?

The first half of the brake pedal travel doesn't do much, the pushrod is adjusted all the way tight, and if I really stomp on the brakes the pedal will hit the floor....not encouraging.

any thoughts on what to check?



Thanks

 

[cruisermatt]

( i have a open element K/N on the booster side too)

Can you elaborate on this or post a picture of what you mean by this?

but where does the reserve vacuum go once the engine is off?

It just stops. The intake isn't completely sealed so it can't be contained.

Couple thoughts:
1. do you have check valve between booster and intake manifold?
2. can you post some pics of your booster hose and where it's hooked up?
3. are you positive booster pushrod (Between booster and master) is adjusted correctly?
4.have you bleed LSPV?
5. Are rear brakes adjusted correct?

 

[onemanarmy]

I'll get some pics....no check valve

on my other vehicles, i get 2 or 3 'assisted' brake pedal pushes with the engine off before the pedal gets hard

on my 62, i turn the engine off and the pedal pushes back at me within seconds and I loose braking power....say I'm on a hill I have to REALLY push down on the pedal to get the brakes to re-engage

brakes are adjusted OK, LSPV has been bled, the ebrake holds fine, I probably could look at the rear brakes again, but that doesn't explain the massive vacuum leak as soon as the engine is turned off

Thanks

 

[tmxmotorsports]

There should be a check valve as @cruisermatt has mentioned in line or at the the port in the brake booster start there.

 

[onemanarmy]

wait....isn't the check valve built into the hose connector barb on the booster?

i don't have a seperate check valve spliced into the booster vacuum line, just a hose from the engine to the booster

i have this one

Brake Booster for North American Spec Land Cruiser FJ62

Brake booster for '88 to '90 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ62 in U.S. and Canadian markets with 3FE engine. This booster is brand new. It's not a rebuilt, not a reman, and there is no core charge. OE quality seals and diaphragms. Painted finish and zinc plated hardware. Direct replacement of OE part #...

www.cityracerllc.com