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I wouldn’t do anything like that until you have the body on. You’ll be doing it twice.
Builds 1988 FJ62 5.3 4l60 Turbo Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SADSZN
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- #62
Had to spend forever buying a die grinder and the correct bit because the adapter was threaded slightly off. This is using the 85-87 mount and the OEM holes essentially slotted out in the cross member to give some adjustability because the 60 mount bolts are slightly wider apart. Going to join the motor to the transmission tomorrow hopefully to tack in motor mounts. Once drive shaft-pinion angles are set I will be able to set the rest of the axles. going to make some adjustable suspension components on the lathe when the school machine shop opens up. Slow process when you are dumb like me but it is a learning experience haha.
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- #63
Sourced a solid set of Turbo seats from a RHD rig locally for a decent price. Foam is in good condition just need headrests for the rears. Will have to reupholster these in a blue grey setup if I stick with them still open to finding a set of blue grey for the right price.
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- #64
Also, motor mounts are welded in. I did however mess up and completely spaced adding the spacer plate that comes with cruiser matts motor mounts. However, the motor fits fine, and will figure it out and monitor if there are any issues. It is sitting slightly further back than Matt advised. I left the transfer case indexed off the cross member essentially and everything off of that so it sits 1.25 or so inches further back. Will deal with firewall and other related things as they come up. Wanted to give myself the most amount of room in the front for intercooler and cooling across the board essentially. Was a real pain getting everything level on the rotisserie and this and that but happy with how it came out. This is all a good learning experience.
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- #65
Party time!
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Why did you get the dual v-band and not the T4?
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- #67
My exhaust manifolds are v band. I have a few ideas on where to place it so it looks lowkey and can still utilize an intercooler
Aah, advance adapters strikes again!
If you find another set, ill take those rear seats off of your hands haha
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- #69
Ofc the rears on these foam is minttttttt
haha ill shoot you a text, hopefully the ones in texas work out
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I would recommend starting non-intercooled and just run 5-7lbs and see how it is before you turn it up. Mine is a little bit bigger tire and softer suspension and gets really stupid at high rpm in boost; yours should be a little more drivable but still. Start small.
What are your plans for ECU?
What are your plans for ECU?
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- #72
Stock ECU and run is essentially all mechanical and just adjust fueling based on AFR. I was going to run it non intercooled. The only reason I’m going to run an intercooler is because it’s a hell of a lot easier to set everything up now before paint etc than after. Basically I graduate w my bachelors in March and will start working but next fall I will be starting grad school so this will be my most opportune time to set up all the infrastructure now versus going backward and setting up later.
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- #73
This is not so much about power as it is
My goal is to be able to drive it one handed at 100 suspension wise. Besides waste gate and BOV my hp hard limits will likely be tires also because I want it to be relatively stock looking lift and tire wise
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Do you already have a good local tuner who is experienced with HP Tuners? Or are you planning on tuning yourself?
if you can afford to go Holley I would.
Depending on which ECU you have some of the early ones will only recognize 1 bar of Map sensor.
What are your plans for injectors, FPR, pump, etc
On the intercooler topic, just saying I have plenty of non-intercooled data from my 4.8 BMW on pump gas an Flex, under 15lbs IATS were under 200f and that was racing it.
I don’t think it’s worth the fabrication for a typical Land Cruiser
if you can afford to go Holley I would.
Depending on which ECU you have some of the early ones will only recognize 1 bar of Map sensor.
What are your plans for injectors, FPR, pump, etc
On the intercooler topic, just saying I have plenty of non-intercooled data from my 4.8 BMW on pump gas an Flex, under 15lbs IATS were under 200f and that was racing it.
I don’t think it’s worth the fabrication for a typical Land Cruiser
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- #75
There is a guy in Vancouver that does everyone’s LS around here and he is good both NA and turbo. You are right about the intercooler I will never get to the point of my intake temp being an issue really with the relatively low boost. This will never see over 1 bar or really even close otherwise everything and their mother would break hahaha
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If you’re doing stock ECU make sure you go AEM for your wideband. They’re the only ones that are any good.
PQY on amazon are a good boost reference FPR for about $30. I’ve used about a dozen of them. Get yourself a set of PAC 1218 valve springs as well. I would just run the stock cam at first and see how you like it.
450lph pump and and the stock fuel lines should be fine for your goals
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- #77
Fuel related stuff I was looking at this morning but not in a crazy rush to figure out. I do have a DBC L59 5.3 in the shop for my 40 build I could swap intakes and that would probably take care of any fuel rail anything. L59 injectors and fuel rails would probably be enough to start the party but need to do more research
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- #78
Gotcha. I 1000% plan on having to build both a 5.3 and a 4l60 down the road.
Side note do you know max realistic HP you can run through the stock split transfercase?
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I have never seen anyone break a split case from anything other then improper assembly or letting it run dry.
If you have the early fuel rails with the
built-in regulator those work perfectly as well.
You shouldn’t need to build an engine for what you’re doing, just valve springs. Put the money towards a torque converter.
If you have the early fuel rails with the
built-in regulator those work perfectly as well.
You shouldn’t need to build an engine for what you’re doing, just valve springs. Put the money towards a torque converter.
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- #80
Welllllll when you say you have never seen anyone break a transfercase that changes the plans for phase 2. There are 3 routes this ends up.
1. Leave it sub 10 PSI eventually build a 4l60 and just have fun. The smart responsible thing to do
2. Build 5.3 mild just for boost build 4l60 for 700ish and turn her up to 1 bar
3. Build 5.3 or 6.0 for boost with 4l60 or 4l80 with 80 series transfercase. Making AWD 700 wheel and be able to do 4 wheel burn outs being ignorant because this is American HAHAHHAHA.
We will see long term what ends up happening and will only address any of these options when the time comes and stuff breaks and needs to be rebuilt. Will likely not be for a few years that other plans come into play since still have the 40 build and probably a 6.2 turbo 6l80 build also
