Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (4 Viewers)

[JuanJ]

Hello,

Like other things in life, it goes well until it does not.

An FRP top can handle weight but when it breaks it is not pretty. And no replacements are available, aside from a donor truck.

Light cargo usually fits well in the back of a 73/74 Series. They are great stuff haulers.

I prefer to use a trailer for items such as bikes. Easy access. But that is just me.





Juan

 

[FJBen]

Everyone loves mystery boxes right?

That just means the real work is about to begin. Still have a bit of parts to order, but the hardest to find is out of the way.



Strike a pose

 

[cruiserdan]

Where the hell did you find that?

 

[OGBeno]

^^ What the older man above said.... That kit is pure gold.

 

[FJBen]

Where the hell did you find that?

^^ What the older man above said.... That kit is pure gold.

I know a guy….




@TeamJB thanks sir!


I think he still has some NOS kits available. As @OGBeno said, these are gold so get them while you can. No making things fit, no guessing, no spending a crapton on generic snap on or Mac or Cornwell pullers and hoping they fit.

Seems like this is the hardest part of the h55f rebuild, getting the right tools.

For Sale - NOS Universal Puller Set 09950-20012 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/nos-universal-puller-set-09950-20012.1276583/

 

[FJBen]

Let’s get back to more cool pictures.

So yeah they are edited a little.


For those that don’t know, this is @shellb killer 40. It’s basically a BJ74 in a 40. 13bt, 5spd. 70 series full float and cable lockers. It’s up on bringatrailer. I got a chance to go drive it and check it out. Super cool rig!



For the pilots I managed to capture that little plane taxi-ing, taxiing, taxying, driving by…

It was cool to drive another 13bt, and one on a 40. I have a couple thoughts. As old school as a bj74 is for everyone, compared to a 61yr old 40 series it’s downright luxurious. I owned a 67, but my memory fades faster than my hairline Becuase there are tractors and then there are TRACTORS.

I forgot just how big of difference that turbo upgrade made. The 13bt in that 40 runs great, but the turbo is laggy. The difference in feel between the 2 is crazy. @shellb can comment as well, but the bj74 just wants to go, super snappy and the 40 is just slower to get going and laggy. Which Probabaly is good in that light 40. We didn’t race because…well that’s just silly…, but I don’t doubt the heavier bj74 with bigger tires would easily pull away. All this to say anyone with a 13BT should absolutely upgrade the turbo to either a gturbo or smaller turbo, it completely changes how the 13bt drives and feels.

Again with my memory…I absolutely love the 40 series, however I just don’t fit. I couldn’t hardly shift 1-2, and 2-3 was hard. After that I was alright. I’m too tall. Bending the shifter over would help, but it still needs more leg room. My son came along, he’s 6’4” so I’m sure we looked like a couple of Shriners when we test drove it

Gotta give my son credit for a photo as well.

It was a good night to chat cruisers and pose for some pictures. He hooked me up with some tasty brews for coming down to check it out. Good people.

 

[bj70bc]

everytime i look at your photos with that filter editing i feel like im on mushrooms

 

[FJBen]

everytime i look at your photos with that filter editing i feel like im on mushrooms

I’m not sure if that’s a good or bad thing…

 

[FJBen]

To make @bj70bc feel better.

Went for a few drives. Gave the hound a bath, good way to dry out. Looking at the weather change and contemplating when to put the FRP back on.

 

[FJBen]

Tried a cheap exhaust to get rid of the flex exhaust I had on temporarily….for the last year…


I used the worlds cheapest 110v flux core welder and cheap exhaust pipe, what a bad combination that is. Bird poop bugger welds. I got a little better figuring it out towards the end.

And just clamped a turn down on the end.

Your welds suck!


Anyways my nephews both have nice welders and can actually weld. So I’ll be bugging them.


This has brought up a small dilemma though. I’m staying with 2.5” but it would be worlds easier to do if I could go straight down and out rather than outside the frame then back in.
However I have a vacuum shift so there isn’t room.
Would you switch to manual shift tcase then build that exhaust?
Or keep the vacuum and do exhaust over the frame?


Edit: nothing wrong with my vacuum shift , and in fact it sounds like they rarely ever go bad..

 

[Rigster]

Tried a cheap exhaust to get rid of the flex exhaust I had on temporarily….for the last year…


I used the worlds cheapest 110v flux core welder and cheap exhaust pipe, what a bad combination that is. Bird poop bugger welds. I got a little better figuring it out towards the end.


View attachment 3447051

View attachment 3447052

And just clamped a turn down on the end.
View attachment 3447053





View attachment 3447071
Your welds suck!


Anyways my nephews both have nice welders and can actually weld. So I’ll be bugging them.


This has brought up a small dilemma though. I’m staying with 2.5” but it would be worlds easier to do if I could go straight down and out rather than outside the frame then back in.
However I have a vacuum shift so there isn’t room.
Would you switch to manual shift tcase then build that exhaust?
Or keep the vacuum and do exhaust over the frame?

I want to change over to a manual shift t-case at some point, as I prefer that. It is also nice to be able to lock it into 4-wheel for whatever reason while working on the vehicle without having to start it first.
Then I would STILL put the exhaust over the frame and to the back. Especially with the removable top. Exhaust that doesn't go straight to the back will cause fumes in the right conditions to bother the people in the vehicle. Leverage your nephews man! Get them to do all the work...

 

[Felde]

Mine is a manual and has the exhaust over the frame and to the back.
I would also recommend to keep the flex pipe. The engine shakes and the long non-flex pipe has quite some mass and acts as a long lever, which puts quite some force on the cast iron exhaust manifold flange. It will eventually break, I think.
Cheers Ralf

 

[FJBen]

I want to change over to a manual shift t-case at some point, as I prefer that. It is also nice to be able to lock it into 4-wheel for whatever reason while working on the vehicle without having to start it first.
Then I would STILL put the exhaust over the frame and to the back. Especially with the removable top. Exhaust that doesn't go straight to the back will cause fumes in the right conditions to bother the people in the vehicle. Leverage your nephews man! Get them to do all the work...

I definitely will go out the back no matter what. I was just hoping to minimize a lot of bends.

Mine is a manual and has the exhaust over the frame and to the back.
I would also recommend to keep the flex pipe. The engine shakes and the long non-flex pipe has quite some mass and acts as a long lever, which puts quite some force on the cast iron exhaust manifold flange. It will eventually break, I think.
Cheers Ralf

I still have my factory exhaust and there isn’t any flex pipe in it at all. The hangers allow flex so I’m not sure if that’s enough.

 

[Rigster]

I definitely will go out the back no matter what. I was just hoping to minimize a lot of bends.


I still have my factory exhaust and there isn’t any flex pipe in it at all. The hangers allow flex so I’m not sure if that’s enough.

There is an interesting point to consider with this.... I have not gone out to look, but IS there room without going over the frame and shoot the exhaust down the same side straight to the back?

I would also prefer this. I find with highway travel the drive train and exhaust heat up the floor of the cab. I was really hoping that the kilmat sound barrier would help a bit with the heat with the foil wrap on it. Unfortunately, this was not the case. I think there needs to be an air gap in order for it to work like that. This is only an annoyance when the ambient temps are getting over 30C/90F. But it would be interesting to find out if this would make a difference, and how much.

 

[Felde]

I still have my factory exhaust and there isn’t any flex pipe in it at all.

Interesting. My factory exhaust clearly has a flex pipe in it. (17410)

IS there room without going over the frame and shoot the exhaust down the same side straight to the back?

I don't think so. The bellhouse, T-case and crossmember are in the way, I think.
Probably one could fiddle a way trough, but that wouldn't be 'straight' by any means.
Or, it would make the exhaust hanging really deep, under the skidplate level, which wouldn't be favorable either.
Cheers Ralf

 

[coldtaco]

I guess you will just have to install a 12hT I run mine inside the frame

 

[FJBen]

Interesting. My factory exhaust clearly has a flex pipe in it. (17410)
View attachment 3447120


I don't think so. The bellhouse, T-case and crossmember are in the way, I think.
Probably one could fiddle a way trough, but that wouldn't be 'straight' by any means.
Or, it would make the exhaust hanging really deep, under the skidplate level, which wouldn't be favorable either.
Cheers Ralf

Here’s my down pipe which appears to be oem to me.

The rest is still on the rig and no flex sections.

 

[FJBen]

There is an interesting point to consider with this.... I have not gone out to look, but IS there room without going over the frame and shoot the exhaust down the same side straight to the back?

I would also prefer this. I find with highway travel the drive train and exhaust heat up the floor of the cab. I was really hoping that the kilmat sound barrier would help a bit with the heat with the foil wrap on it. Unfortunately, this was not the case. I think there needs to be an air gap in order for it to work like that. This is only an annoyance when the ambient temps are getting over 30C/90F. But it would be interesting to find out if this would make a difference, and how much.

Yeah I would like to run straight out the back but just not enough room with that vacuum tcase. Part of me wanted to go manual, another part says why change what’s working.

 

[FJBen]

Since everyone convinced me the apocalypse would happen if I put the rooftop tent on my cruiser, i put it on the tundra. I’m officially 2 rotopax and maxtrax away from almost being accepted into the overland crew. However a 1gen tundra is NOT a Tacoma or 4Runner so Bogan-lander it is.

PS that tent is big and heavy. Too much for the FRP or soft top rails. A Toyota pickup bed trailer would be cool.

 

[FJBen]

‘Twas a beautiful fall Saturday. Supposed to be 72 degrees, sunny… perfect for a trip to the mountains with my son. We are hitting a trail called Old Flowers Road which is about an hour from my house.

Back roads the whole way.

Since my son is always sleeping or eating, I figured we better hit some breakfast. Vern’s it is. I used to go here when I was a kid. Vern’s has been in Laporte, CO for over 70 years. Started out a diner, sporting goods and filling station. Their main deal is a cinnamon rolls so
We indulged.

I got 1/2 of mine…Someone else ate the other half unbeknownst to me.

Heading outside of Laporte you hit the tiny town of Bellvue. Area long inhabited by Arapaho and Ute Indians, teepee rings are still visible near here. The general store on the left from 1880.

Up the winding roads we go. Weather was amazing, views were fantastic and not a car around us.

Now we are getting off the blacktop. Pictured here is the stove prairie ranch.

According to legend, the name Stove Prairie was derived from several iron stoves abandoned on the prairie as pioneers realized they would have to lighten their loads in order to cross the Great Continental Divide.

In 1896, Stove Prairie Ranch was established with the first homestead and school being built on the existing property. To this day, Stove Prairie School remains as the oldest operating school house in Colorado.

Sadly…it’s a wedding venue mainly now. There was one happening that day we drove by, but hardly anyone was there yet.


All sorts of pull off camp spots on the way up.