Builds 1987 fj60 12h-t h55f conversion

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Time for a bit of an update to this thread, I've been busy on swapping a 15bf into my yellow 40 but decide to change gears so to speak and get the 60 ready for another big trip. I'm planning on driving it out to Yuma Arizona and L.A. in a couple of weeks and then spend a couple of weeks in Colorado before driving back to Yuma and then back to Alabama. Probably will put around 7k miles or so on it so want to make sure everything is up to snuff. Back in 2016/2017 when I rebuilt this engine I had powder coated the oil cooler housing and the thermostat housings. I didn't know at the time that the powder would delaminate from contact with the coolant. The oil cooler housing had started leaking due to this, so I decided to fix it.

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You can see the effects of the coolant on the powder.
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Before the pump is removed the engine is put at top dead center, with the timing mark lined up on the crank pulley and timing cover, the service port is removed from the oil pump housing, to reveal a partially flat tooth on the timing gear. If it looks like the rest of the teeth on the gear, spin the engine over another 180 degrees. Once this is done the pump can be removed, the installation is reverse of removal. Because the gears are helical it is a bit tricky getting it back in time, you basically have to start inserting it one tooth out for it to be in time when it is fully seated in the housing.


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Hard part is done.
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I pulled the thermostat housings.

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Blasted and vapor honed the top housing. The bottom housing I didn't remove until the next day and instead of getting all my blasting stuff set up again, I just grabbed a new lower housing I had in my parts stash. Next time I'm blasting stuff I'll clean the bottom one up and put it back in my stash of 12ht spares.
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This side of the engine is all back together, moving over to the other side.
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Started pulling the turbo last night.
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Couple of the studs were stripped so I got the welder out to weld a nut on the fubar'd stud. I melt some metal on it and notice I still have a bright light after I'm done welding. Throw my hood up and there is a fire under the truck. The oil drain pan was ablaze, I kicked it outside the garage and put the fire out, disaster averted but damn that was a close call. I used all the plates to keep weld spatter off my s***, including inside the manifold and on the flange surface.

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Turbo is back on, new booster installed and adjusted. I got frustrated with the intake elbow and called it a day. I'll finish it up tomorrow, also need to pick up some vacuum hose to go from the new booster to the vacuum canister.
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Booster is from City Racer

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Not sure why the hell Gturbo didnt put a 90 degree barb on this like the factory turbo, this one puts a weird kink in the hose and is pretty close to the rubber elbow.

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Glad to see you working on this truck. Coming to LA? Let me know, I’m in the area. 😁
Yeah, my 15bft engines I bought almost 3 years ago finally made it to port this week. I'm going to try to drive over from Yuma and pick them up if I can work it logistically.
 
I found that when trying to torque the Injection Pump back on, the two inner bolts were very hard to access. Did you have a special tool/socket that you used? Did you also replace the O-Ring and know of a U.S. source selling it?
 
I found that when trying to torque the Injection Pump back on, the two inner bolts were very hard to access. Did you have a special tool/socket that you used? Did you also replace the O-Ring and know of a U.S. source selling it?

I replaced the o-ring, don't recall where I bought it. I have a few 12ht over haul gasket sets which don't by the way come with that o-ring. I also remove my IP's with the auto timer attached, so I don't have to set the timing on it every time it is removed.
 
Sometime last year I rerouted my PCV vent from going to the intake to just venting to atmosphere. I had this pipe capped off but noticed the other day when removing the cross over pipes that this vent pipe complicates removal of the "turbo" embossed pipe, you basically have to remove this pipe to remove the fresh air "turbo" pipe. Anyway, I made a small block off plate for it.

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Got her all back together late last night.

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Rode over to Michael's this morning to use his lift and he was kind enough to give me a hand with the rest of the repairs this morning.


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When I installed these cable locked axles a few years ago I had an interference issue with the passenger rear shock. I spaced it out with some junk while I searched for the right u bolt plates.

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You won't find this spacer in the Toyota catalog.

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Turns out I had the correct plates all along from a few years back when I parted an fj62. I galvanized them a few months ago because they are pretty prone to rust.

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Look at all that clearance.


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Well over an inch of clearance now to the locker guard.

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Replaced both u bolt plates, the rear axle brake hose, and adjusted the rear drums. We also flushed all the brake fluid since its been about 4 years since the axle install.

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It looks a little short but, this is at full extension and it still has some room.

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Man, I wish I spent more time keeping up with threads. I didn't realize you put a G Turbo on. I am in the process right now and looks like I gotta fab a bracket for that lower mount.

Your kids are getting big. You have your very own gang of little helpers!
 
Man, I wish I spent more time keeping up with threads. I didn't realize you put a G Turbo on. I am in the process right now and looks like I gotta fab a bracket for that lower mount.

Your kids are getting big. You have your very own gang of little helpers!
It's only been on there just a few days. Gturbo says that mount is not required but I sure do feel better having it there. I wish I had time to regear these diffs before heading west, I can't stand these 3.70s. Are you driving your 60 out this year Pat?
 
Gees where did that BC plate come from? Nice truck. a 60 is one of the few LCs i have not owned. Oh and a pig.
 

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