FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
Coupling nut you used do you have a pn? Or did you just extend the old one using some bush mechanic skills like the rest of us youtube scientists
Builds 1986 BJ74 Build
- Thread starter PyroDAN
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
Man I thought that we wouldnt have these issues if we dont have the LSPV on our oem rear axles? Isnt this strictly an 80 series feature?
As far as I’m aware most 70-series came with an LSPV. I had to replace my master cylinder and booster, but haven’t touched the LSPV so I’m guessing it needs attention.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Maybe you have air in the LSPV “return” line.
Felde has done a good job documenting LSPV protocols.
Felde has done a good job documenting LSPV protocols.
- Thread starter
- #85
Next couple of patches done. Rear seat mounts have big rust bubbles coming up.
Turns out the base plate under body that's spot welded has a drain hole. Didn't want to remove the original holes and have to deal with alignment issues.
The old masking tape and pencil trick works great for stencils
Turns out the base plate under body that's spot welded has a drain hole. Didn't want to remove the original holes and have to deal with alignment issues.
The old masking tape and pencil trick works great for stencils
- Thread starter
- #86
Thought is better cut the base plate out too, it's too far gone and lost too much metal. Doubled up my plate and spot welded together. Tried out some weld through primer. Cruisers lasted 30 years, if I get another 20 I'll be happy.
Welded from top and bottom.
Welded from top and bottom.
- Thread starter
- #87
Still cutting bits out.
The seams have split- drivers seat mount has been repaired previously it appears. This has pulled the seam apart and waters done the rest.
Scrapped out under the seams where I can and treated with phosphoric. Big ones are next to the wheel arch.
New seam sealer in and I'm calling it a day.
Next up will be the drivers and passengers foot well, the seams have rusted out.
After that I'll be wet blasting the underbody and sealing with maybe KBS rust seal.
Does anyone have any favourites with underbody paint? Not going down the 2 pac road, I've no experience. Only done acylic 1k.
The seams have split- drivers seat mount has been repaired previously it appears. This has pulled the seam apart and waters done the rest.
Scrapped out under the seams where I can and treated with phosphoric. Big ones are next to the wheel arch.
New seam sealer in and I'm calling it a day.
Next up will be the drivers and passengers foot well, the seams have rusted out.
After that I'll be wet blasting the underbody and sealing with maybe KBS rust seal.
Does anyone have any favourites with underbody paint? Not going down the 2 pac road, I've no experience. Only done acylic 1k.
- Thread starter
- #88
Finished the passenger foot well. 2 big rust holes sorted. Onto the drivers next and I'll seal up the underbody before moving onto replacing the rear quarters
- Thread starter
- #89
Back home and cutting more bits out.
Drivers side this time. Removing the pedals for easy access. Big thumb size holes that have been fibreglassed up.
Getting a bit more in tune with my mig, balancing decent heat and penetration with little build.
Drivers side this time. Removing the pedals for easy access. Big thumb size holes that have been fibreglassed up.
Getting a bit more in tune with my mig, balancing decent heat and penetration with little build.
- Thread starter
- #90
Pulled the pedals apart while I'm in.
Hit with the wire wheel, then Etch surfacer and acylic black. Had to take the brake pedal support bracket out to get the clutch pin out.
Hit with the wire wheel, then Etch surfacer and acylic black. Had to take the brake pedal support bracket out to get the clutch pin out.
- Thread starter
- #91
Happy so far. Just doing the drivers well first so the pedals can go back in and I can drive it out of the shed. Next up I'll blast the underbody and seal it all up.
- Thread starter
- #92
Pedals back in. Tricky to find where I left the clutch return spring hanging and hiding under the dash.
Happy with how it all cleaned up.
Parts hanging in etch primer that will be urethane coated with KBS.
Trim plates are sitting in high fill primer.
Happy with how it all cleaned up.
Parts hanging in etch primer that will be urethane coated with KBS.
Trim plates are sitting in high fill primer.
- Thread starter
- #93
Found a great little trick for pulling dents out that I can't reach from underneath.
Spot weld a washer on and use a slide hammer. Also picked up a heap good little air grinder accessories of temu. Namely a 3mm collet to use with dremil sized cut off wheels. Handy to get into awkward spots without over cutting.
Spot weld a washer on and use a slide hammer. Also picked up a heap good little air grinder accessories of temu. Namely a 3mm collet to use with dremil sized cut off wheels. Handy to get into awkward spots without over cutting.
- Thread starter
- #94
Feeling motivated... until the fender came off.
Grinder, welder and clamps out. one peice at a time
Grinder, welder and clamps out. one peice at a time
- Thread starter
- #95
Got a fair bit done today.
Decided to cut off and leave the sils and connecting peices from the quarter panel so I've something to reproduce.
Little bit of braze on the upright corner. Everything else was spot welds.
Decided to cut off and leave the sils and connecting peices from the quarter panel so I've something to reproduce.
Little bit of braze on the upright corner. Everything else was spot welds.
- Thread starter
- #96
Quick fit up
- Thread starter
- #97
First up, fix this poorly done patch job. Must have had some damage fixed on the cheap at some stage. Picked out peice of filler an inch thick.
Patch job was done band-aid style trapping dirt and crud inside the layers.
Patch job was done band-aid style trapping dirt and crud inside the layers.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #98
Picked up an ebay set of cleko clamps. Thought I'd give them a try, drilled 3 holes to keep the roll bar in the same place after the fix.
- Thread starter
- #99
Back out to the sacrifice car for more donations. It's starting to pay itself off.
I thought I'd have to modify alot but so far the profiles are the same.
I thought I'd have to modify alot but so far the profiles are the same.
- Thread starter
- #100
Decided to split the spot welds and do it in 2 halves. Profiles matches really well, with a couple of extra peices on there.
Lined everything up and tacked in place.
Checked the fit of the contours of the profile underneath and welded it all up.
Really happy it's done properly now.
Lined everything up and tacked in place.
Checked the fit of the contours of the profile underneath and welded it all up.
Really happy it's done properly now.
