Builds 1986 BJ74 Build (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jul 11, 2017
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I've been skulking around the pages of Mud for awhile and thought I might post and show my progress.

I received the car off the old man for nothing, with the understanding that I look after it. that was an understatement.
here is a few pics of the neglected old girl. I was moving from Adelaide to Perth and driving the Nullabor in a months time. My partners Dad helped me replace the windscreen and taught me some panel work. needless to say, I was hooked.


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windscreen just crumbled apart.
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big holes. all cut out and replaced with fresh metal

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And so the adventure begins

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2900 odd Kms and 806 L of Diesel later and we drive into Perth.

Decided that the old bull bar will have to be upgraded to a winch bar.
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After a 2.5'' old man emu suspension lift
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found a second hand ARB bar for $400. cleaned up pretty well, new coat of gloss black
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add an ebay roller fairlead and a cheap winch.
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This is pretty much going to be a refurb, one panel at a time.

I drove it to place that does sand blasting. 4 bolts later, pulled the bonnet off and blasted it.
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there really is no replacement for blasting, you find all sorts hiding under the rust
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Gassless mig. gross welds.
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new paint and sound deadner sheets
 
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Diving deeper into the rust repair. Ripped out the carpet to replace the body deadner sheets. shes noisy on the road at 100km/h
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passenger foot well had a couple of holes.
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And so did the drivers... the old sound deadner held water and dust. which in turn bred rust.
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fibreglass and etch prime.
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I may have gone overboard.
 
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Started to get serious.
pulled the rear windows out to replace the seals and tint the glass.
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Step 1 pull off the covers
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Step 2 Run a blade in between the pane and fibreglass to break the seal.
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Gently pry the windows out
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don't drop them
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dont go OCD, your going to put more mastic sealant back on later. dissolves in turps by the way.
 
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remove the top screw before attempting to remove the glass
push the glass into the middle, feet on the lower section and gently pull the frame upward. you can tilt the top of the glass panes out.
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little rubber wedges go under, when you reassemble.
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the dividers clean up with mineral turpentine. rubbers point forwards in the car
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sand blast to find the hidden horrors.
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fibreglass, sand, etch and paint
 
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Next up was an easy project. replacing the rear cards. 2mm sheet Aluminium from a sheet metal place for off cuts.
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used the old Crud as a template. don't even bother with the single use push clips. use Nutserts.
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use some thick felt to replace the feel from the old foam that has tuned to dust.
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sound deadner sheets for mass.
 
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Next project. the rear doors
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heavily rusted around the tail light. Ill leave this for when I do the body. Didn't want to take too much on at the same time
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rust is pretty bad from the seals
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Sand blasting reveals the true extent.
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filler and square up the flats.
 
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Brake booster upgrade time!

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Replaced with the 80 series duel diaphragm model,4 bolt version
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fits like a dream. good half hour job replacing it with the right parts.- think it was an M8 coupling nut x 1.25 thread
 
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while I'm doing the brake upgrades,
new calipers! might as well paint them with high temp paint while they are clean.
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New LSPV off ebay- 75 bucks

this is the old one, rubber boot traps water and the whole this seized.
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Bled the brakes starting from the furthest line- rear left hand, rear right hand, LSPV, LHS and finally RHS. she lock up on pavement now.
 
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Front doors!
Iv'e had all this done for quite some time, just been lazy posting.
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did the drivers side 1st over a few weeks off work. big holes where they meet the firewall. Again, windscreen let water in and bred rust.
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sand blaster has paid for itself. nothing is able to hide.

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Bit of glav sheet metal offcuts. prime between the layers before you weld it up.
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this is why she whistles over 80km/h. Saved the rubbers, they cleaned up with turps. ordered new metal inserts from Megazip.
 
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And onto the paint and panel work. Buy yourself some proper guide coat! I wasted a few cans of rattle can black before hand. helps you find all the lows and highs to sand flat.
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pretty happy with the paint job.
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next up replacing door cards.
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Nutserts in the old holes, and M5 hex heads. pretty happy with how they came up.
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and repeat for the other side.
 
Joined
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After a run up in the hills, came home and let her sit. walked out to this the next day! not impressed.
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as it turns out, the rear output shaft seal had let go. gear oil everywhere. After a trip to Bursons auto parts, it was time to drop the oils on the trans case/box and diff. might as well rebuild the knuckles at the same time.
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Buy a big pack of nitrile gloves. all the advice I can give you.
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Some pitting occurred behind the shaft seal. all clean up and new seals.
 
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Joined
Jul 11, 2017
Messages
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Location
Western Australia
took me a couple of half days each side, going at my own pace. never been up to the elbows like this before so a bit of consulting the OEM manual was needed.
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went from this
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to this. All new wheel bearings, hanger bearings and seals. even painted the rotor guards at the same time.
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Joined
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couple of small jobs happened in between projects.
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replaced all the old globes to LED. the indicators now blind you at night.
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highly recommend RAM mounts
 
Joined
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Rear door cards are a bit sad too.
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this time I went with new vinyl.
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M5 nutserts in all the old mounting holes.
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preferred the wrapped look rather then sheet metal Aluminium.
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Joined
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Messages
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Location
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And to get fancy, a drop down table for camping and fishing
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rattle can enamel black
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not bad, all up for under 100 bucks for hardware.

Next up,on board air.
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4L air tank mounted just in front of the back rhs shock. heaps of clearance. bolts run up through the floor.
equipped with 140 psi pressure cut off switch and air drain.

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