oh I'm no aristocrat...My 79 will probably be the most low buck one out there. Probably about the same amount it costs to import a 75 in good condition like yours. I have way more time than money...so I'm building the truck myself b/c that is the ONLY way I can afford one. I've also been compiling parts for this build for years. If you're patient you can wait till you find deals on everything. .
1985 HJ75 Pickup
- Thread starter Gun Runner 5
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- Thread starter
- #162
"oh I'm no aristocrat".........I know I am just having some fun.
.....your trailer trash cousin
.....your trailer trash cousin
How much does the coating cost you? Go by cubic feet or something??
Is the coating painted by ordinary spraying gun?
Is the coating painted by ordinary spraying gun?
crushers
post ho
you can get tintable hippo liner and tint to match your paint color, WAY better than trying to paint the stuff seperately.
here it is $150 a kit and a bed will take 2 kits to do properly.
here it is $150 a kit and a bed will take 2 kits to do properly.
- Thread starter
- #165
How much does the coating cost you? Go by cubic feet or something??
Is the coating painted by ordinary spraying gun?
I can't really give you a price for the interior and rear bed because the price was "all inclusive" to paint and under-coat the entire Cruiser.
Although I was not present during the painting process ( I did drop by from time to time to make sure the painters were not sleeping under a shade tree on my dime ), I am fairly confident that the product was sprayed on. Based on Wayne's information, I assume you could budget $300.00 plus labor.
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There are so many of these "liner" products out there not that its hard to keep them all straight. The all of there advantages and disadvantages. I've never used hippo liner but I think I remember Wayne rolling it on in one build thread. The bigger names like line x and rhino are all sprayed on with high pressure guns. It doesn't look like a fun job to me.
crushers
post ho
actually the stuff is sprayed with a low pressure shoultz gun, as far as i know all the different types can be sprayed or rolled.
in some circumstances i like to roll sometimes i like to spray.
the spray gives a nice even coating, the roll you can be creative.
the hippo stays flexible which is nice as well as you can get tintable which is really a bonus if you are matching a color of a truck.
i have paid as little as $69/kit or as high as $149/kit. DO NOT TRUST the posted coverage, pure BS. shop around, keep an eye for a sale and buy 2X what you think you need and you could possibly still be a bit short.
it is great for sound deadening, if you have rough loads going into the bed, if applied correctly then it bonds wickedly and is nice for those rainy places.
but, be careful using it on something you will be keeping for a long long time as it can be a bitch to fix down the road. well, that is my suggestions anyway, others will vary.
in some circumstances i like to roll sometimes i like to spray.
the spray gives a nice even coating, the roll you can be creative.
the hippo stays flexible which is nice as well as you can get tintable which is really a bonus if you are matching a color of a truck.
i have paid as little as $69/kit or as high as $149/kit. DO NOT TRUST the posted coverage, pure BS. shop around, keep an eye for a sale and buy 2X what you think you need and you could possibly still be a bit short.
it is great for sound deadening, if you have rough loads going into the bed, if applied correctly then it bonds wickedly and is nice for those rainy places.
but, be careful using it on something you will be keeping for a long long time as it can be a bitch to fix down the road. well, that is my suggestions anyway, others will vary.
- Thread starter
- #168
The product that was used on my truck ( cab and interior ) is produced by a company called U-POL ( not sure if there is a dash in the name) and the actual product is called "Raptor." It is sold by a local auto parts store and I am not sure if the product is available everywhere. The paint shop has been using the product for quite a while with good results.
Hope that helps......
Hope that helps......
- Thread starter
- #169
I "googled" U-POL and they appear to be a fairly large company with a variety of products.
Million thanks for the info!
- Thread starter
- #171
Million thanks for the info!
Your Welcome..........
- Thread starter
- #172
My 1978 HJ45 pickup had the bed "rhino lined" by the previous owner and I don't know if it was the product or the prep but it had constant "issues." Cracking and peeling was a constant problem.
The moral of the story.....do your homework.
I'm am getting to the stage of my build where I will be tearing everything down again to paint, power coat and line everything. I'm getting the frame powder coated. I'm still undecided on the underside of the body and the cab interior. I think I am going to go with line x on the inside of the bed. If I could afford it I would have them spray everything but its too expensive. I'm thinking of using hippo or al's liner on the under side of the bed and cab. Not sure that I want to to this though b/c if something goes wrong down the road you are screwed b/c it won't come off. I think I will sound deaden the inside of the cab with dynamat or less expensive equivalent. and possible use a layer of sound deadening foam between the dynamat and factory vinyl mat.
- Thread starter
- #174
The only thing I powder-coated was the brush bar ( with good results) and it is my intentions to powder-coat the rear canopy before it is installed. As far as sound proofing goes, you can always turn up the radio or put in earplugs.
Good luck........
Good luck........
crushers
post ho
when getting the powder coating done make sure you get them to PROPERLY sand blast the frame to bare metal.
powder sticks to bare metal, not to anything else ... with excellent results.
powder sticks to bare metal, not to anything else ... with excellent results.
- Thread starter
- #176
Thanks for the advise......the rear canopy frame will be the largest item I have ever had powder-coated.
yeah I've learned the bare metal concept the hard way. It particullary true with aluminum. You have to power coat it almost immediatley after blasting or it doesn't adhere properly.
- Thread starter
- #178
Its even more of a challenge down here in the deep south where the humidity runs in excess of 50% most of the year. By the time you remove your work gloves the metal is already rusting.
- Thread starter
- #179
Attn. Cruiserheads.....Where is the valve physically located that allows you to select the rear fuel tank? ( on the rear tank itself, engine bay etc.)
Thanks......
Thanks......
The solenoid valves are above the tanks (or close by)from memory. I think there is 2 valves for each tank. One is for fuel going to the engine and the other is for fuel return.
This is so when you switch tanks the return fuel is sent back to the same tank you are using.
Otherwise you would be filling one tank up while drawing it from the other leading to an overflow.
It also isolates the tanks completely in case you have discovered one has contaminated fuel.
So when you select either tank,2 valves must switch off and 2 must switch on if I understand the system correctly.
