1984 Toyota Camry / Vista with 1.8l turbo diesel 1C (2 Viewers)

[Mike NXP]

Anyone out there who is familiar with this style fuel pump , can you take a look at this spring ?

It seems like it's possible not installed right and has some play in it.. . I see on the parts blowout there are two different size springs in there. Is this how it should look ?

 

[cruiserinsanity]

Anyone out there who is familiar with this style fuel pump , can you take a look at this spring ?

It seems like it's possible not installed right and has some play in it.. . I see on the parts blowout there are two different size springs in there. Is this how it should look ?

View attachment 3740595

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That’s how my VW Rabbits injection pump spring looks, it’s the same style. If it’s functioning well right now I wouldn’t touch it, those were a pain to reinstall.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Looks fine to me. Play is usually in the ball joints.

 

[Squash]

Lol dude don't jinx me . It's all allegedly been done and is in more than road worthy condition . This thing is a sleeping beauty just waiting for me to give it the beans

I'd buy it in a heartbeat and then drive it for years. Did that with a 1985 BJ70. Sudbury Ontario/Alaska/Yukon. Pure simple reliability.

 

[Mike NXP]

That’s how my VW Rabbits injection pump spring looks, it’s the same style. If it’s functioning well right now I wouldn’t touch it, those were a pain to reinstall.

Good to know. I made the horrible mistake of messing with that hooked end and thought it was supposed to be around the post. I managed to set it back before realizing I shouldn't touch it.

The cable and linkage leading up to this also have a lot of play but I suppose I wont mess with it


Thank you ebay. This will be fun to paw through

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Here's something you don't see anymore. Now it just says , " see dealer "
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[Mike NXP]

So the engine seems to have a bit of a rough start at times, especially with cold ambient temperatures ( 30 deg F ) . I found my negative battery connection to be lose and thought that was the culprit but it happened again today.

I just put fresh oil in, went with 15w40. Battery is charged and the connections are tight. I cycled the glow plugs twice ( IDK? Thinking maybe it helps in the cold ) and it just sort of rumbled as the dash lights flashed. I let it sort of struggle for a few seconds and then tapped the accelerator which brought it to life .


I wasn't too happy with that lol , I was hoping it would just roar to life with ease. Which it did the second go around but it seems to struggle upon first attempt

I also noticed there is a little pump on top of the fuel filter, maybe I need to give her a prime before starting if it's been sitting for a few days . We'll consult the manual

*** Interesting, the manual tells me to push down half way on the accelerator pedal when starting a cold engine. Will try that and see if it comes to life any easier

 

[TheBussman]

perform battery test, if ok, perform amp draw test on each glow plug, make sure they are getting power also. If all that's OK perform compression test, injector test. some diesels start better then others. all the other IDIs I've worked on really need glow plugs to be100% to start good.

if pumping the primer helps it start in the cold then you have an air ingress leak into the fuel lines somewhere (often its at the primer itself) should not need to pump the primer unless you've had the fuel lines apart or the filter off.

I think it's fine to run 15w oil but switching to 5w can make a noticeable difference in faster cranking with some diesels in cold weather.

 

[Mike NXP]

perform battery test, if ok, perform amp draw test on each glow plug, make sure they are getting power also. If all that's OK perform compression test, injector test. some diesels start better then others. all the other IDIs I've worked on really need glow plugs to be100% to start good.

if pumping the primer helps it start in the cold then you have an air ingress leak into the fuel lines somewhere (often its at the primer itself) should not need to pump the primer unless you've had the fuel lines apart or the filter off.

I think it's fine to run 15w oil but switching to 5w can make a noticeable difference in faster cranking with some diesels in cold weather.

OK good to know. I'm not going to dive that deep unless it becomes an issue. I'll continue to test her out and see how it does. Perhaps it's a simple as putting my foot on the pedal a bit while cranking like the manual suggested.


Another sort of lame thing to note:
I realized when in gear the shifter has a fair amount of wiggle room. Enough to where I thought I was in neutral ( did the old wiggle back and forth ) popped the clutch out and realized oh s*** i'm in first.....normal for such an old rig? It doesn't pop out of gear which is nice but the wiggle in gear is not ideal

 

[TheBussman]

OK good to know. I'm not going to dive that deep unless it becomes an issue. I'll continue to test her out and see how it does. Perhaps it's a simple as putting my foot on the pedal a bit while cranking like the manual suggested.


Another sort of lame thing to note:
I realized when in gear the shifter has a fair amount of wiggle room. Enough to where I thought I was in neutral ( did the old wiggle back and forth ) popped the clutch out and realized oh s*** i'm in first.....normal for such an old rig? It doesn't pop out of gear which is nice but the wiggle in gear is not ideal

there are rubber bushings on the end of the shifter cables that can wear used to be a company selling all brass replacements for the MR2 crowd, also if you take apart the linkage on the transmission there is a square piece that rubs on two sides. you can turn it 90 degrees and get some more life out of it or replace it. will tighten up the shifter alot. good idea to grease it up too.

 

[BrickRunner]

there are rubber bushings on the end of the shifter cables that can wear used to be a company selling all brass replacements for the MR2 crowd, also if you take apart the linkage on the transmission there is a square piece that rubs on two sides. you can turn it 90 degrees and get some more life out of it or replace it. will tighten up the shifter alot. good idea to grease it up too.

They still do make them! I had these on my my AW11, but eventually replaced them with the bearing style.

 

[Mike NXP]

They still do make them! I had these on my my AW11, but eventually replaced them with the bearing style.

Ohh interesting, thanks or sharing. OK so this isn't something inside the transmission causing the slope, its more likely the linkage? Good to know.

Ah s*** you know I'm just remembering something. The seller claims the shift cable broke a few years back and they couldn't find a Toyota replacement. I was told they found something from another old Toyota ( purchased new part ) that worked with some modifications. He gave me a spare as well, but I think this would have dealt with / replaced the little bushing at the end


I'll have to poke around under the hood and see what I can find.

 

[BrickRunner]

Ohh interesting, thanks or sharing. OK so this isn't something inside the transmission causing the slope, its more likely the linkage? Good to know.

Ah s*** you know I'm just remembering something. The seller claims the shift cable broke a few years back and they couldn't find a Toyota replacement. I was told they found something from another old Toyota ( purchased new part ) that worked with some modifications. He gave me a spare as well, but I think this would have dealt with / replaced the little bushing at the end


I'll have to poke around under the hood and see what I can find.

There is also a plastic socket/cup (at least on mine) that the shift lever sits in that could be worn.

 

[duncanrm]

perform battery test, if ok, perform amp draw test on each glow plug, make sure they are getting power also. If all that's OK perform compression test, injector test. some diesels start better then others. all the other IDIs I've worked on really need glow plugs to be100% to start good.

Yep this.. glowplugs dont last for ever and if its got any kind of "Superglow" system that intelligently tries to time the glow operation that is often problematic later in life. You'll almost never a smooth start of a cold indirected injected diesel engine without a well working glow system.

Step 1.. remove the glow rail, touch the tip of a test lamp to each glow plug (with the floating end of the test lamp connected to Batt+) if the lamp doesnt light up on a plug its blown.

 

[Mike NXP]

Yep this.. glowplugs dont last for ever and if its got any kind of "Superglow" system that intelligently tries to time the glow operation that is often problematic later in life. You'll almost never a smooth start of a cold indirected injected diesel engine without a well working glow system.

Step 1.. remove the glow rail, touch the tip of a test lamp to each glow plug (with the floating end of the test lamp connected to Batt+) if the lamp doesnt light up on a plug its blown.

This is a good tip, thanks for sharing.
I keep telling myself, if someone rebuilt this motor they must have replaced / serviced all these wear items so I don't want to dive too deep yet. I don't know if it has any superglow system, nothing in the manual mentions this.


On a lighter note, it seems that if I turn the key over while applying some pressure to the accelerator pedal, the motor fires up very easily and idles nice. Ive actually never seen a diesel motor start so quickly..... Maybe the slop in the throttle cable linkage / fuel pump linkage is to blame for the rough start without pressing the pedal, it would just rumble and fall on its face unless I tapped the pedal..... Either way, shes still doing good for now


Got a local mechanic checking it out next week and hopeful he'll dive into the timing belt. I was able to track down all OEM parts from Partsouq and Amayama . Rockauto for the win on the Aisin water pump kit

 

[duncanrm]

On a lighter note, it seems that if I turn the key over while applying some pressure to the accelerator pedal, the motor fires up very easily and idles nice. Ive actually never seen a diesel motor start so quickly.....

Nice! Thats great to hear, the compression numbers are likely very good!

 

[Mike NXP]

Nice! Thats great to hear, the compression numbers are likely very good!

I agree. I also left the oil cap off by accident while running recently and it wasn't like splashing out or anything... Is that also a sign of no blowby / good compression too??

Even in top gear its impressive how it can go from low end power all the way up to higher rpms

This bad boy is super quiet inside , with the exception of some door panel rattles when idling. Driving down the road I can barley hear it at lower rpms


** I wonder how to know what rpms im idling at and what this motor calls for... Ive been wondering if its just a tad too low but im still just getting used to this motor , may be normal

 

[Mike NXP]

I

there are rubber bushings on the end of the shifter cables that can wear used to be a company selling all brass replacements for the MR2 crowd, also if you take apart the linkage on the transmission there is a square piece that rubs on two sides. you can turn it 90 degrees and get some more life out of it or replace it. will tighten up the shifter alot. good idea to grease it up too.

So I'm trying to make sense of what I need to look for to tighten up the slop in the shifter. Looks like someone linked to cable bushing that will work but you also mentioned some square piece , see below. Is this it?

I've got to get eyes down on the transmission and see how hard it would be to replace. The shifter cable is shiny and looks new , I was told it got replaced after I broke recently , I wonder where the slop in the shifter is coming from

 

[BrickRunner]

I

So I'm trying to make sense of what I need to look for to tighten up the slop in the shifter. Looks like someone linked to cable bushing that will work but you also mentioned some square piece , see below. Is this it?

I've got to get eyes down on the transmission and see how hard it would be to replace. The shifter cable is shiny and looks new , I was told it got replaced after I broke recently , I wonder where the slop in the shifter is coming from

View attachment 3742238

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Yup! That's the same one I find on Megazip for your car. I never replaced mine, but turned it 90 degrees like @TheBussman said. It helped alot as it was worn a good amount.

 

[Mike NXP]

Yup! That's the same one I find on Megazip for your car. I never replaced mine, but turned it 90 degrees like @TheBussman said. It helped alot as it was worn a good amount.

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Good to know . I think the majority of the play could be within the bushings on the shifter as well . Might just do nothing for now , really want to drive it and just have fun.

Going to take her out on a voyage today to get to know it a bit more
>> Why do I always see Bro's in their huge diesel trucks just idling in parking lots, why dont they shut down? On cold days , is it better for diesel motor to idle when popping into a store quickly VS shutting down ?

Thinking i might drain and refill the transaxle tomorow, but I need to go get some DexronIII first

 

[TheBussman]

Good to know . I think the majority of the play could be within the bushings on the shifter as well . Might just do nothing for now , really want to drive it and just have fun.

Going to take her out on a voyage today to get to know it a bit more
>> Why do I always see Bro's in their huge diesel trucks just idling in parking lots, why dont they shut down? On cold days , is it better for diesel motor to idle when popping into a store quickly VS shutting down ?

Thinking i might drain and refill the transaxle tomorow, but I need to go get some DexronIII first

yes that's the one, idling is not great for the motor but DI diesels take forever to warm up when it's cold out, I'm always shutting off and starting back up unless I have a really good reason to idle. Your IDI won't take as long but still a little longer then a gas engine. I havent seen many issues with truck or car motors but tractors and generators that idle all the time and only have light load often develop "wet stacking" issues.