1984 Toyota Camry / Vista with 1.8l turbo diesel 1C (3 Viewers)

[Eurasiaoverland]

I would guess it's the first muffler box. Toyota often don't list a separate 'converter' if it is part of a downpipe assembly.

 

[Mike NXP]

So I really hate to overthink oil viscosity but since this is my first diesel suppose I should get some opinions

My new Toyotas ( cruiser , highlander , GX ) all get 5w30.But throughout the years all of my older small engine cars ( pre 1998 ) would always get 10w40 ( Corolla, accords, Mitsubishis , etc)

I see Toyota recommended 10w30 on this motor but I can't possibly see the harm in running 10w40 year round or maybe even going 15w40 during the hot summer months . Does that sound reasonable? Mobil states their 10w40 devlac is rated down to -43F . Impressive ( obviously I won't be running this car in those temps ) but I will be driving her all winter and single digits temps for sure

Does the alleged recent rebuild play a factor

1990 toyota corolla diesel 1.8d motor oil

What is the difference between a 25w50 multigrade oil and a sae 30 monograde oil? What oil would you recommend for a 1990 toyota corolla diesel 1.8 d 1C engine? I live in tropical climate in nicaragua a country where the lowest temperature ever recorded was around 59 degrees F or 15 celsius and...

bobistheoilguy.com

Funny side note - Guy at parts store said I could go 5w30 or even thinner as long as I throw some Lucas additive in the mix and then he tried to sell me on some various products... I found that kind of bizzare

 

[sodafeld1]

View attachment 3733913

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hey ! that's the dude from monkey magic

 

[duncanrm]

hey ! that's the dude from monkey magic

You're showing your age

 

[Mike NXP]

Went to go fire it up this morning and it stumbled and stalled after a few seconds. Dash lights looked weird too , I ended up finding the negative battery cable was barely hanging on. It fired right up after that so hopefully that was all it was

But I've got a screaming belt noise again. I noticed it was my Alternator belt. I spray some water on it and it goes away so hopefully its just an old crappy belt

• The belts aren't too bad to remove but it takes a bit of time. First remove the washer fluid / coolant res combo tank. My coolant tank was sorta gooey and nasty in the bottom so flushed with soapy water and cleaned out
• *** I noticed the PS / AC belt has been rubbing at one point on the timing cover which sucks. I feel like I should go deeper and do the timing belt at some point soon
  
  
• Remove PS / AC belt first. The nut on the idler is a 14mm and an offset wrench can get to it. Then come around the front side with a 13mm deep 1/4" socket and there is an adjustment bolt .Turn clockwise to bring idler pulley towards front of vehicle and remove pressure
• Remove Alternator belt. 14mm wrench to break loose the bolt from topside and same for down below. Then use a 12mm wrench to turn adjustment bolt and release pressure.
• Local parts store didn't have any stock. I've got something on order and will post part numbers:
  AC / PS Belt -
  Alternator Belt -
  
  
  
• Also using this time to drain coolant out of the radiator and will fill back up with some basic 50/50 green. After some research it sounds like the Red is for newer Toyotas. Peak brand is the only one I can find that says , suited for older model gas an diesel engines, so I'm just going to go with it

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Not much space in there. Remove the passenger side tire and splash guard to get better access from below
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Belt rubbing here and sort of looks like a gap between timing belt cover
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With tank removed
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Accessory belt pattern for Toyota 1C-T
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[Eurasiaoverland]

The belt rubbing on the timing cover could just be a bad belt in the past, but what you are pointing at is the crank pulley, which I would guess is a harmonic balancer (basically a dual mass pulley bonded with rubber). When the rubber bonding starts to fail with age, they go out of true and a worn timing case cover is a giveaway. Take a good look when the engine is running to make sure the pulley run dead true. Nothing to do with the condition of the timing belt.

Any bolt with a 13 mm head on that vehicle is non-original (or possibly dealer fitted, but I doubt it).

The EPC belt pattern (it shows different positions for the idler pulley according to whether the engine has an AC compressor or not).

P/N for the power steering/AC compressor belt is 99365-51210. I can't find a listing for the alternator belt.

 

[Mike NXP]

Great info thanks for sharing the above


So I wonder if I should open up the timing belt cover since im so close already . I want to inspect the belt but then again I sorta dont want any trouble.. . Hmmm

 

[Mike NXP]

Another random question in regards to power steering .

The cap cals for " Dexron type power steering fluid "

I always associated Dexron with red ATF fluid and power steering fluid being oil colored

I pulled the dipstick and checked , it appears to be oil colored and looks clean so I wont mess with it BUT im curious what fluid should be on the system when it calls for " dexron type power steering fluid " based on color I assume keep using regular PS fluid and don't use ATF

 

[Dougal]

Another random question in regards to power steering .

The cap cals for " Dexron type power steering fluid "

I always associated Dexron with red ATF fluid and power steering fluid being oil colored

I pulled the dipstick and checked , it appears to be oil colored and looks clean so I wont mess with it BUT im curious what fluid should be on the system when it calls for " dexron type power steering fluid " based on color I assume keep using regular PS fluid and don't use ATF

Vehicles like this don't use anything fancy for fluids.
Engine oil just needs to be diesel type (detergent level) and viscosity is dictated by climate (temp range). A 10W40 is a better oil (wider temp range) than a 15W40.
Coolant is green glycol.
Power steering is ATF Dexron III

The squealing belts is weird. If it was rebuilt 5k miles ago it wouldn't need new ones. But the rest of the engine looks clean enough to support the rebuild claim.

 

[Mike NXP]

Vehicles like this don't use anything fancy for fluids.
Engine oil just needs to be diesel type (detergent level) and viscosity is dictated by climate (temp range). A 10W40 is a better oil (wider temp range) than a 15W40.
Coolant is green glycol.
Power steering is ATF Dexron III

The squealing belts is weird. If it was rebuilt 5k miles ago it wouldn't need new ones. But the rest of the engine looks clean enough to support the rebuild claim.

OK cool, good to know. Ill just run the 10w30 for now based on temperatures
Maybe go thicker in the summer but it sounds like that might not be necessary either

I wonder if the previous owner put regular PS fluid in the system since it looks clearish brown in color , similar to clean engine oil .


So im starting to think the rebuild claim is sorta legit. I see there is like blueish RTV sealant oozing out from the oil pan and i also noticed it around the little half moons near the cams. Someones been in there for one reason or another.

The alternator belt squeal is weird BUT although the rebuild is claimed at 5k miles ago, the timeline translates that to back 10 ish years ago. The belt was dry rotted and cracked in the cogs. Pulleys all sound smooth and water on belt silenced the squeal so hopeful this will fix the squealing.


My next paranoia will be the timing belt . I feel like Im going to want and replace it at some point so I can stop thinking about it
>> Maybe the better thing for me to find out is what happens if the belt breaks / is it an interference motor

 

[AirheadNut]

Congratulations on the purchase! Looks like you've got a sweet little commuter. Regarding oil I would recommend Shell Rotella T6, either 15W-40 or 10W-30 depending on the recommend viscosity and operating temperature range. It is inexpensive, synthetic, and has a good reputation. I've been using it in all my diesels for years now, used oil analysis has always recommended 8-12k mile changes with it.

I would definitely have a close look at the timing belt, if it has really been 10+ years it would be worth replacing for peace of mind. I can almost guarantee it is an interference motor, it would be pretty much impossible to build a diesel that wasn't due to the compression requirements. A broken timing belt will result in bent valves, dented pistons, and likely cylinder wall scoring and bottom end damage.

I'd love to come check it out some time when I am back in the Flathead if that would be ok.

 

[Mike NXP]

Congratulations on the purchase! Looks like you've got a sweet little commuter. Regarding oil I would recommend Shell Rotella T6, either 15W-40 or 10W-30 depending on the recommend viscosity and operating temperature range. It is inexpensive, synthetic, and has a good reputation. I've been using it in all my diesels for years now, used oil analysis has always recommended 8-12k mile changes with it.

I would definitely have a close look at the timing belt, if it has really been 10+ years it would be worth replacing for peace of mind. I can almost guarantee it is an interference motor, it would be pretty much impossible to build a diesel that wasn't due to the compression requirements. A broken timing belt will result in bent valves, dented pistons, and likely cylinder wall scoring and bottom end damage.

I'd love to come check it out some time when I am back in the Flathead if that would be ok.

Good to know. I see that Shell claims the 15w40 is rated down to -13F.
>> I happen to have a 5qt jug of 15w40 rotella so maybe ill run it for a while. I doubt ill be driving this vehicle when it gets below 0 outside anyway

Ah, s*** yeah I really should just do the timing belt and whatever else is in there. I assume a water pump,tensioner , and probably an idler pulley as well. Ill need to start doing my research. I want to pull the cover and look but I also want to just drive the damn thing ! Lol my wife is already wondering why I just brought this home and its already taken apart =]

Yeah for sure , message me when you're back around and I can chug it on over your way .

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Great info thanks for sharing the above


So I wonder if I should open up the timing belt cover since im so close already . I want to inspect the belt but then again I sorta dont want any trouble.. . Hmmm

I don't think you're very close to getting the cover off - you'll need to deal with the crankshaft pulley bolt (do you have access from the RH wheel well)? Looks like you'll also need to remove the cruise control assembly at least in part, possibly a power steering hose. Do you have a workshop manual?

 

[AirheadNut]

Is there an upper cover? If so that would be a much easier way to check health on the belt, though it probably wouldn't reveal much about the idler/tensioner.

 

[Mike NXP]

I don't think you're very close to getting the cover off - you'll need to deal with the crankshaft pulley bolt (do you have access from the RH wheel well)? Looks like you'll also need to remove the cruise control assembly at least in part, possibly a power steering hose. Do you have a workshop manual?

No manual unfortunately but the cover appears to be a two piece unit. The top seems to have a few clips and 2-3 bolts and i was thinking that may reveal something . But im not sure and probably wont mess with it...yeah there is a nice way to access the crank from wheel well.

I'm starting to add the necessary parts to my next order. Looks like Partsouq has just about everything needed and will hope to get this done before winter.

 

[Mike NXP]

Oil Viscosity Info from Owners Manual

 

[Mike NXP]

Accessory Belt Update
Alternator belt can accept : Gates 9330
Power Steering / AC Belt - Need to add part # here

These belts went on pretty easy. Snugged everything back up and fired it up. The squeal is seemingly fixed for now.


Coolant
I decided it was easy enough to drain the radiator along with flushing out the overflow. I filled it back up with Peak 50/50 green . The radiator top looks to be fading / browning so hopefully it doesn't give out anytime soon. Replaced the cap as well since the original looked all dented and worn out

Timing belt
Paranoia sinks deep, into your mind it will creep.....So yeah I ordered all the parts but will chicken out and find a local mechanic to do this one for me..... I don't want have it in me to get this done in a timely manner especially in my gravel driveway as winter approaches. Figured do it once with OEM parts and don't think about it again for many more years

-Partsouq has about 90% of the parts needed in stock with OEM toyota
- Water pump will have to come from Rockauto and it seems they do have an Aisin brand available which I think is what the Toyota part would be anyway?
- I had to reach out to Amayama for the timing tensioner,crank seal, and some other little bits that I couldn't find. Local Toyota said there is 1 idler in the country left but they wanted $180 for it. Amayama wants $50 shipped here from Japan. I really want to buy locally but how could I...
- Spent about $300 in parts and got a bunch of other little bits like oil and air filters , drain gaskets, new drain and fill plugs for the diff, and other stuff.

 

[Dougal]

Oil Viscosity Info
Just to confirm what most people already know. Mobil responded to my inquiry in regards to temperature ranges for different oil viscosity. I think I'll plan to run 15w40 and leave this rig parked if it gets below 20 degrees outside. It looks like if I want to run it in colder temperatures I should go with a 10w30
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I can't find your engine either, but for diesel engine oils with CK-4 specifications (assuming your vehicle is CK-4 technology), the suggested temperature ranges generally follow these guidelines:

• 10W-30: Ideal for moderate to cold temperatures, typically ranging from -20°C to 30°C (-4°F to 86°F). It offers better cold-start performance.
• 15W-40: Suited for warmer climates, with a range from -10°C to 40°C (14°F to 104°F), providing excellent protection in high-temperature conditions.

Or you can run a 10W40 which will happily do -20C to +40C ambient. I find 15W40's crank slow below zero.

 

[Mike NXP]

Or you can run a 10W40 which will happily do -20C to +40C ambient. I find 15W40's crank slow below zero.

Good call, I see Shell Rotella has that option but Mobil Delvac does not. Yeah that sounds like a happy middle ground I'm just trying to make use of this 5 qts of 15w40 in my garage lol

 

[Dougal]

Good call, I see Shell Rotella has that option but Mobil Delvac does not. Yeah that sounds like a happy middle ground I'm just trying to make use of this 5 qts of 15w40 in my garage lol

Fair enough. Basically the bigger spread in the numbers on oil the more expensive the oil is. There's no downside other than the price. A 5W40 and 0W40 are going to cost more than a 15W40.