1984 Toyota Camry / Vista with 1.8l turbo diesel 1C

[Eurasiaoverland]

90341-18089 is the original drain plug for your engine, which is an 18 mm thread. This part has been superseded to the one you ordered from Partsouq in the picture. There are however later sump pans for the 2C engine which used a 12 mm sump plug, 90341-12012. This plug is still available.

 

[Mike NXP]

90341-18089 is the original drain plug for your engine, which is an 18 mm thread. This part has been superseded to the one you ordered from Partsouq in the picture. There are however later sump pans for the 2C engine which used a 12 mm sump plug, 90341-12012. This plug is still available.

Great info, thanks for posting part numbers. I suppose at this point I should just go match this one up down at the auto parts store with whatever they have instead of going through Toyota.

I wonder if this oil pan was replaced with the 2c version at some point

 

[Mike NXP]

Alright well this was an interesting find. I took the engine oil drain plug that I removed down to the hardware store and it paired up with a US 1/2"-20.

I can't see what's going on down under the vehicle but if I had to guess, someone stripped out the drain plug and put in some kind of heli-coil thing?? That would also explain why my 22mm wrench didn't feel quite right on this bolt head

Anyway, Napa had what I needed. Just going to re-install this US spec bolt and move on for now.
- Part #704-1918 Drain plug w/ gasket

 

[TheBussman]

Interesting. So you would opt' to just run the #2 year round but would consider using an additive if the temperatures call for it.

I guess now I'm curious how that compares to using the "50/50 winter blend" at the pump. It says its a mixture of #2 and #1. I assumed I would just start running this once winter hits but I don't know.


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Interesting, never seen that before #1 is thinner so that could help but alot cheaper to run additive and #2 and probably better for your Injection pump. The #1 sold around here as kerosene would have a lower cetane rating but if they are selling #1 at a pump for cars they must of bumped up the cetane rating to what #2 is I'm sure for emissions reasons. I hear it gets cold in Montana. hopefully you can park in the garage.

 

[Mike NXP]

Interesting, never seen that before #1 is thinner so that could help but alot cheaper to run additive and #2 and probably better for your Injection pump. The #1 sold around here as kerosene would have a lower cetane rating but if they are selling #1 at a pump for cars they must of bumped up the cetane rating to what #2 is I'm sure for emissions reasons. I hear it gets cold in Montana. hopefully you can park in the garage.

Yeah I wasn't sure how normal the blend at the pump was... Either way I went and picked up a bottle of Lucas anti-gel. I'll plan on just adding a bit of this when it gets colder and then if I decide to run the car in consistent sub 0 degree temps maybe I'll mix in some of that 50/50 blend at the pump. Seller I bought it from claims he would never use additive but would transition to the blended fuel at the pump as it got colder. I'll do a combo of both and see how it goes

 

[Mike NXP]

Heres some diesel porn for all you sick bastards. Hows she sound ?

 

[Mike NXP]

s*** , so when I went for an alignment they told me the bushing on the torsion bar (or whatever that arm is called) is a bit sloppy . Nothing unsafe to drive but didn't want to do the alignment

Bushing , collar, and washer are no longer available. I can't find any aftermarket options either.
>> So what next? Maybe try another alignment shop and see if they have the same conclusion. Otherwise will need to try and source entire arm w/ bushing or remove bushing and take measurements and hunt down parts , no bueno

 

[AirheadNut]

Heres some diesel porn for all you sick bastards. Hows she sound ?

Sounds pretty good! Got the quintessential IDI clatter.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Heres some diesel porn for all you sick bastards. Hows she sound ?

Sounds like a tractor. Can you crank it wide open so we can hear it on boost?

Annoying about the suspension components. Time to search for an aftermarket solution.

 

[AirheadNut]

I gotta come check that thing out! Maybe we can find a time when my brother's shop is free and we could put it up on the lift to get a good look at the suspension and undercarriage.

 

[Mike NXP]

Sounds like a tractor. Can you crank it wide open so we can hear it on boost?

Annoying about the suspension components. Time to search for an aftermarket solution.

Ill get a bit more video after my next drive.

Im also bummed about the suspension . I even made an attempt at buying the entire arm but no go.

Im just going to have to live with it for now.

I gotta come check that thing out! Maybe we can find a time when my brother's shop is free and we could put it up on the lift to get a good look at the suspension and undercarriage.

Yeah for sure shoot me a message next time your in town and ill chug on through

 

[TheBussman]

I'm sure there is a bushing out for another car that's the same diameter but just a little longer or shorter, you can cut down a long one or shim a shorter one. can also bore out the center sleeve if needed. I've had to do that before on old cars loosing their parts support. difficult to find that diameter spec though i would look though some of the performance poly bushing companies specs or maybe just ask them. Then when you find one with the right diameter order the factory rubber version of it. (unless you want poly)

 

[Mike NXP]

Welcome back to todays episode of " So you bought a 40 year old diesel car "

So I'm on the hunt to find someone who will do the timing belt for me, before I decide to just do it on my own

Called Toyota
>> Sorry, we don't work on diesel engines.

Called a few indy shops

Shop # 1
>> Says he doesnt have a service manual so there's no way he can do it...I also asked well what about suspension and sloppy shifter, but eventually got the vibe he didn't want to deal with it so I just moved on

OK so call Shop # 2
>> We don't work on diesels , call a diesel shop


Not a bad idea, so I call a few diesel shops
Diesel shop #1
>> We only work on trucks,

Diesel shop # 2
>> Now this guy, he finally said what everyone else was thinking . " Sorry, I just pick and chose the work I do and I'm busy enough so I don't want this job"

I sorta get it , but on the flipside my money is still green just charge accordingly and I'll pay up

This area is sort of a joke in regards to hiring people. I've had terrible luck with several contractors for other non-auto related work too. If you don't have deep pockets, better learn how to fix it on your own

 

[Mike NXP]

I'm sure there is a bushing out for another car that's the same diameter but just a little longer or shorter, you can cut down a long one or shim a shorter one. can also bore out the center sleeve if needed. I've had to do that before on old cars loosing their parts support. difficult to find that diameter spec though i would look though some of the performance poly bushing companies specs or maybe just ask them. Then when you find one with the right diameter order the factory rubber version of it. (unless you want poly)

Good call, I did reach out to a few aftermarket bushing companies but noone was able to assist.

Best I can tell, I'm going to need to remove the arm and bushing and do some measurements then hunt something down. But that translates to a massive amount of time not being able to drive the car. LAME

For now, I'm just going to keep riding out to see what explodes first.

 

[Mike NXP]

Update

Called another diesel shop , who told me he wont touch it and only works on trucks
BUT
Then he went on to tell me hes got the service procedure on his AllData program and to come by so he can print it out for me, score.... He then dropped some F* Bombs while claiming everyone around here is full of s*** and its a f*ing timing belt and told me I can do it on my own and to F everyone else lol

I like his spirit , and think ill go pickup the service procedure from him and see if I can get motivated to do it before winter hits. Or maybe , just do nothing and keep driving it .

 

[TheBussman]

aftermarket, might not be as good but still an option: Spareto - https://spareto.com/products?utf8=%E2%9C%93&keywords=4867426040
mag engines, partsouq list it too but they may also cancel when you try to order.
sometimes amayama cancels something, and then you just order it again next week and it goes though.
somtimes it will be unavailable with the overseas parts sellers and then the local dealer can get it.
looks like 1st gen MR2 bushings and their are still interest in those cars. Can prob reuse the washers if they arnt available.


I own a shop and I totally get turning down the job. I would make way more if I didn't work on older cars/trucks, the majority just want them fixed as cheap as possible. Also there is alot to go wrong, something completely unrelated can break on the car while it's at the shop and the customer expects it to be fixed for free... and then their is the parts problem. Current old diesel car in the shop was shipped to me from Chicago because nobody their would work on it.

 

[Mike NXP]

aftermarket, might not be as good but still an option: Spareto - https://spareto.com/products?utf8=%E2%9C%93&keywords=4867426040
mag engines, partsouq list it too but they may also cancel when you try to order.
sometimes amayama cancels something, and then you just order it again next week and it goes though.
somtimes it will be unavailable with the overseas parts sellers and then the local dealer can get it.
looks like 1st gen MR2 bushings and their are still interest in those cars. Can prob reuse the washers if they arnt available.


I own a shop and I totally get turning down the job. I would make way more if I didn't work on older cars/trucks, the majority just want them fixed as cheap as possible. Also there is alot to go wrong, something completely unrelated can break on the car while it's at the shop and the customer expects it to be fixed for free... and then their is the parts problem. Current old diesel car in the shop was shipped to me from Chicago because nobody their would work on it.

Thanks for sharing that link. Ill do some more research and see what I can dig up. Im also chatting with amayama who is trying to chase down some other options too

Yeah, for sure I get where folks are coming from its just a bummer


Service manual on order ,one step closer to just doing it on my own eventually but probably not anytime soon

 

[Mike NXP]

Latest update on the old brown camry

Alignment
I got the shop to agree to just try and align me as-is, without replacing those bushings, due to me not being able to source the part. This should help get me going straighter, hopefully ....At a minimum at least get the steering wheel straight


Mechanics
I finally found a guy here locally. By chance , he owned the exact same car but the gas version for many decades
Eventually the rust claimed the entire vehicle but needless to say he was Cheezin' when he saw me pull up .

Hes on board for helping with timing belt and even said we may want to adjust valves since it may be a bit chattery ( I don't hear that but no big deal now )

Figured we'd tackle some stuff this winter when they get slow.


So, until then I'll just be riding it out


Thanks to everyone for the input so far

 

[Mike NXP]

Another update on Ol' Brown

• The PS / AC belt is continuing to squeal intermittently, just enough to annoy me. So I started looking a bit closer at the idler / tensioner setup . I also remember a while back someone said, " anything with a 13mm bolt head on that vehicle is non-oem"
• The idler adjustment bolt has a 13mm head. I finally got a light down in there and realized the backside of the bolt has like a welded washer on it. As I tension the bolt, it also felt out of round. Like it would get tighter and then sort of break loose.
  >> I suspect this is non-oem unless it used to all just come as one piece but this looked pretty DIY.
• I have a replacement tensioner setup in route due to this pulley ( sort of ) free-spinning and I wanted to replace it anyway
  
  
• So tonight I removed the tensioner bracket and inspected everything. I also discovered the top nut/bolt of my power steering pump is loose
• There may be better ways to do this but I removed the power steering rubber line and plugged it. Then pulled all the tensioner bolts and the bracket was able to slide out. I had to use a big cheater bar but they all broke loose fairly easily
• I had to cut the welded washer off the backside and that allowed the bolt to be removed
  
  

For future reference:
Lowest hole - Small bolt with washer - 14mm head
Next hole up - Largest bolt and it goes through into the fuel pump
Top two holes - 2 small bolts, same size as lower hole but NO WASHER. Have to get them through the power steering pulley - 14mm heads



Replacement assembly on order:
Looking at this picture there doesn't appear to be any nut on the backside of the main bolt so hoping this will be a good fix and keep everything snugged up. This pic also seems to have one too many large washers but maybe it fits multiple applications. Fingers crossed.
Part # GMB GT6000 - Available through Amayama

 

[Mike NXP]

I don't really understand this tensioner setup..without something holding that adjustment screw I don't understand what would keep the bolt from not being able to fall out . Maybe just the pulley being secured down to the bracket keeps it all in place ?

I wonder if I just hacked up something that wasn't all that broken in the first place but idk it seemed like a rig job.... Looking forward to getting the new parts in