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- #21
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Builds 1984 Root Beer in Vermont - Build
- Thread starter Seth S
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- #22
Today I installed the front passenger side seatbelt so now at least both front belts perform as designed. I took some photos and noted the tools I used in case anyone is searching in the future:
This is the bracket that is held onto the original seatbelt assembly with 2 T30 torx bolts. Simply undo the torx bolts, straighten the small curved tab that sticks out the end and bolt onto the new retractor reel of the new seatbelt. I used grade 8 bolts that I think were 3/8 but my have been 5/16 diameter and were 3/4" long as I was not able to find ones that were just a little shorter. I mounted the new bolts so that the heads are on the surface and the ends protrude on the belt side:
You can see that with the nylock nuts fully tightened down there is a small amount of bolt sticking out but it never comes close to hitting the belt.
The hole spacing in the new bracket is just a hair narrower than the old....so put both bolts in with everything loose and then put the nuts on and tighten.
This is the bracket that is held onto the original seatbelt assembly with 2 T30 torx bolts. Simply undo the torx bolts, straighten the small curved tab that sticks out the end and bolt onto the new retractor reel of the new seatbelt. I used grade 8 bolts that I think were 3/8 but my have been 5/16 diameter and were 3/4" long as I was not able to find ones that were just a little shorter. I mounted the new bolts so that the heads are on the surface and the ends protrude on the belt side:
You can see that with the nylock nuts fully tightened down there is a small amount of bolt sticking out but it never comes close to hitting the belt.
The hole spacing in the new bracket is just a hair narrower than the old....so put both bolts in with everything loose and then put the nuts on and tighten.
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- #23
To do the install I used the following tools:
3/8 ratchet
1/2" socket or 13mm socket
1/2 or 13mm combo wrench
Philips screw driver
T30 Torx
3/8" extension
14mm socket
11/16 socket
5/8" socket
anti-seize
The toyota bolts are all metric but the the upper seat belt mount on the new belt is a standard bolt and the supplied hardware for the receiver is also standard hardware.
I reuse the stock Toyota bolts where its easy to do so.
3/8 ratchet
1/2" socket or 13mm socket
1/2 or 13mm combo wrench
Philips screw driver
T30 Torx
3/8" extension
14mm socket
11/16 socket
5/8" socket
anti-seize
The toyota bolts are all metric but the the upper seat belt mount on the new belt is a standard bolt and the supplied hardware for the receiver is also standard hardware.
I reuse the stock Toyota bolts where its easy to do so.
- Thread starter
- #24
I also did some more work on the carb cooling fan:
The original connectors are gone and the wires were broken. I put some good male and female crimp connectors on but then realized there wasnt enough length to reach the original harness wires. I have not tied back into the original harness wires yet because I need to verify that there is voltage there when the truck is hot and ignition turned off. My thermal sensor is still in place and the wire is still attached but it is a very stiff wire and clearly been cooked too much. I'll see if the thermister is working first and then see if there is voltage on the blue-red wire coming out of the harness
The original connectors are gone and the wires were broken. I put some good male and female crimp connectors on but then realized there wasnt enough length to reach the original harness wires. I have not tied back into the original harness wires yet because I need to verify that there is voltage there when the truck is hot and ignition turned off. My thermal sensor is still in place and the wire is still attached but it is a very stiff wire and clearly been cooked too much. I'll see if the thermister is working first and then see if there is voltage on the blue-red wire coming out of the harness
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I used cruiser Outfitters for my knuckle kit. Flawless install with no hic ups.My new General Grabber ATX 31x10.5x15 arrived today. I'll drop it off to be mounted tomorrow. I look forward to ordering the other 4 to go on the truck. Also will order the wheel bearings and knuckle rebuild kits this week for when I get home after this next work trip. Any suggestions for where to order the parts from? I've looked at Marlin and Cool cruisers sites and have order from cool cruisers before. Any other input welcome for sourcing.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Knuckle rebuilt kit was easy to purchase from Georg, Valley Hybrid, it was a Terrian Tamer brand. He sent everything w/ the 54mm socket for $2-something.
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- #27
My passenger window regulator is really tight so no time like the present to fix it. Found mud thread on how to remove the window cranks and then found this YouTube video that really clears things up
All I can say is wow. That trick worked in 2 seconds. I couldn’t even see the damned clip.
All I can say is wow. That trick worked in 2 seconds. I couldn’t even see the damned clip.
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- #28
Lots of things done today. On the way to work on my truck I stopped and picked up my new spare tire:
The first thing I did when I started working on the truck today was to pull apart the passenger door panel and lubricate all the moving parts of the window regulator and to lube the slides. The previous post I mentioned the door handle and that towel trick was amazing. I watched the video and was skeptical at best but the moment I did it the clip popped right out. I need to replace the rubber tracks and the rubber seal scraper on the door panel but at least i can crank the window easily and smoothly now.
this is what the clip looks like. When the handle comes off then the clip and how it mounts all make sense....before that its really hard to see in there to see what the hell is holding it on.
The first thing I did when I started working on the truck today was to pull apart the passenger door panel and lubricate all the moving parts of the window regulator and to lube the slides. The previous post I mentioned the door handle and that towel trick was amazing. I watched the video and was skeptical at best but the moment I did it the clip popped right out. I need to replace the rubber tracks and the rubber seal scraper on the door panel but at least i can crank the window easily and smoothly now.
this is what the clip looks like. When the handle comes off then the clip and how it mounts all make sense....before that its really hard to see in there to see what the hell is holding it on.
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I need to do this too. Thanks for posting that video! I was certain I would break that crank handle.Lots of things done today. On the way to work on my truck I stopped and picked up my new spare tire:
The first thing I did when I started working on the truck today was to pull apart the passenger door panel and lubricate all the moving parts of the window regulator and to lube the slides. The previous post I mentioned the door handle and that towel trick was amazing. I watched the video and was skeptical at best but the moment I did it the clip popped right now. I need to replace the rubber tracks and the rubber seal scraper on the door panel but at least i can crank the window easily and smoothly now.
- Thread starter
- #30
The real task for today was to try and reset my front wheel bearings. There was a very obvious rocking motion when grabbed at the 12 and 6 positions and rocked back and forth. So I wasn't sure if they were just loose or if they were bad. I just decided to go in and try and adjust them to get me by until later when I service both knuckles and redo everything inside.
I didn't order any gaskets or parts but I did get a 54mm socket off of amazon along with a container of Timken NGLI wheel bearing grease. I was worried there might be an explosion when the Koyo bearing interacted with the Timken grease but so far no issues.
THIS is the socket I ordered and it fits in the hub great, nice construction, and good price. (3/8" drive)
Normally I would pull the caliper off so I could get the rotor off and service the inside bearing as well but tonight I didn't have any spare parts and didn't want to risk a broken or damaged brake line....so I left the brakes alone and just serviced outer bearing.
I currently have a single story 12x18 garage that I think the 60 will just barely fit inside of. When I measured it bumper to bumper I think it was about 16'. But right now the garage is full of stuff including another car and the floor is in bad condition. I will be tearing said garage down this fall and rebuilding it with a 12x24 second floor and a loft. So I'll finally have some real space to store things and a nice garage space for things like rebuilding the transmission. In the mean time I do most of my work in the drive way or I can drive a couple hours to and work at a friends shop on a lift.
Setting up:
Pulled the (6) 10mm bolts out of the hub selector and easily popped it off the end of the hub. Aside from being dirty and missing some black paint this hub still works without issue.
I scooped out as much nasty old grease as I could so that I could see the snap ring. Getting the snap ring out was pretty straight forwards. In the future I think I'll look to see if I can get one of these style rings to replace the stock snap ring:
The stock one is a PITA to work with as its hard to keep from slipping off....especially when reassembling.
With the ring out I used a hammer and a block of wood to hit the body and free up the tapered washers. I didn't have my brass hammer handy and the wood trick worked very well. Couple good wacks and a tapered washer came shooting out.
I found that the outer 54mm nut was loose and the inner 54mm nut was also loose. So I pulled the nuts and spacers and washers etc and then popped the bearing out as well. I was able to clean up most of the grease and look the bearing over closely. Bearing was a Koyo and looked to be in good condition.
Packed the bearing with fresh grease and slid it back into place. Also packed in behind it with fresh grease and then started the reassembly process. I had been reading extensively about the torquing process and in the end used the FSM process as best as I could approximate without my torque wrench available.
1. Tighten first nut to 43 FT-lb
2. rotate wheel right and left a few times and torque to 43 FT-lb again.
3. Loosen the nut until you can turn it by hand
4. Tighten the nut to 48 IN-lb (or about 4 FT-lb). Little detail that the manual nonchalantly states but I bet gets looked over a lot.
5. install the lock washer and bend over tab for nut number one.
6. Install the second nut and tighten to 47 FT-lb
7. measure the force needed to rotate the hub using a spring cage...should be around 12lbs of force....this was all just guessing the feel by hand but it seems to be working well.
Nice and clean and going back together. I packed some more grease in here before assembling the next piece. The gasket on the end of this part had crumbled to dust when I pulled it apart....since i didnt have the gasket or any gasket material handy I cleaned both surfaces really well and used Permatex 518 (anaerobic sealant) in place of the gasket....again I'll be doing a full teardown this winter.
Also bolt in the end to make sure axle is all the way out and aid in getting the snap ring back in place.
I put some more grease in here for good measure before sliding the locking hub piece back in place.
And everything back together:
So the passenger side is done. The drive home seemed fine and I look forward to getting the other side done to see if some of my driveline rolling vibrations and shimmies go away. On a side note my brake pedal was feeling firmer and I suspect its because the pads in one caliper are in proper alignment. I've seen misaligned or oddly worn brake pads cause a spongy pedal feel before and it gets better when said pads wear in.
I didn't order any gaskets or parts but I did get a 54mm socket off of amazon along with a container of Timken NGLI wheel bearing grease. I was worried there might be an explosion when the Koyo bearing interacted with the Timken grease but so far no issues.
THIS is the socket I ordered and it fits in the hub great, nice construction, and good price. (3/8" drive)
Normally I would pull the caliper off so I could get the rotor off and service the inside bearing as well but tonight I didn't have any spare parts and didn't want to risk a broken or damaged brake line....so I left the brakes alone and just serviced outer bearing.
I currently have a single story 12x18 garage that I think the 60 will just barely fit inside of. When I measured it bumper to bumper I think it was about 16'. But right now the garage is full of stuff including another car and the floor is in bad condition. I will be tearing said garage down this fall and rebuilding it with a 12x24 second floor and a loft. So I'll finally have some real space to store things and a nice garage space for things like rebuilding the transmission. In the mean time I do most of my work in the drive way or I can drive a couple hours to and work at a friends shop on a lift.
Setting up:
Pulled the (6) 10mm bolts out of the hub selector and easily popped it off the end of the hub. Aside from being dirty and missing some black paint this hub still works without issue.
I scooped out as much nasty old grease as I could so that I could see the snap ring. Getting the snap ring out was pretty straight forwards. In the future I think I'll look to see if I can get one of these style rings to replace the stock snap ring:
The stock one is a PITA to work with as its hard to keep from slipping off....especially when reassembling.
With the ring out I used a hammer and a block of wood to hit the body and free up the tapered washers. I didn't have my brass hammer handy and the wood trick worked very well. Couple good wacks and a tapered washer came shooting out.
I found that the outer 54mm nut was loose and the inner 54mm nut was also loose. So I pulled the nuts and spacers and washers etc and then popped the bearing out as well. I was able to clean up most of the grease and look the bearing over closely. Bearing was a Koyo and looked to be in good condition.
Packed the bearing with fresh grease and slid it back into place. Also packed in behind it with fresh grease and then started the reassembly process. I had been reading extensively about the torquing process and in the end used the FSM process as best as I could approximate without my torque wrench available.
1. Tighten first nut to 43 FT-lb
2. rotate wheel right and left a few times and torque to 43 FT-lb again.
3. Loosen the nut until you can turn it by hand
4. Tighten the nut to 48 IN-lb (or about 4 FT-lb). Little detail that the manual nonchalantly states but I bet gets looked over a lot.
5. install the lock washer and bend over tab for nut number one.
6. Install the second nut and tighten to 47 FT-lb
7. measure the force needed to rotate the hub using a spring cage...should be around 12lbs of force....this was all just guessing the feel by hand but it seems to be working well.
Nice and clean and going back together. I packed some more grease in here before assembling the next piece. The gasket on the end of this part had crumbled to dust when I pulled it apart....since i didnt have the gasket or any gasket material handy I cleaned both surfaces really well and used Permatex 518 (anaerobic sealant) in place of the gasket....again I'll be doing a full teardown this winter.
Also bolt in the end to make sure axle is all the way out and aid in getting the snap ring back in place.
I put some more grease in here for good measure before sliding the locking hub piece back in place.
And everything back together:
So the passenger side is done. The drive home seemed fine and I look forward to getting the other side done to see if some of my driveline rolling vibrations and shimmies go away. On a side note my brake pedal was feeling firmer and I suspect its because the pads in one caliper are in proper alignment. I've seen misaligned or oddly worn brake pads cause a spongy pedal feel before and it gets better when said pads wear in.
- Thread starter
- #31
Working on the carb cooling fan this afternoon.
1. The relay located between the wiper relay and the turn signal flashed is I believe the cooling fan relay and it does click when the key is turned on or off.
2. All fuses seem to be good
3. The white wire with black stripe that goes to the cooling fan is continuous to ground with a hot engine bay.
-guessing this means the thermo switch is working but will pop the green connector and test it directly.
Only thing missing seems to be 12v on the blue wire with red stripe that would go to the fan.
Anything else to check?
1. The relay located between the wiper relay and the turn signal flashed is I believe the cooling fan relay and it does click when the key is turned on or off.
2. All fuses seem to be good
3. The white wire with black stripe that goes to the cooling fan is continuous to ground with a hot engine bay.
-guessing this means the thermo switch is working but will pop the green connector and test it directly.
Only thing missing seems to be 12v on the blue wire with red stripe that would go to the fan.
Anything else to check?
- Thread starter
- #32
Hmmmm looking over the circuit diagram again I think the thermo switch grounds the relay which makes sense. So no power at the fan might be a bad thermo switch. Guess I will try grounding that single wire and then checking for power at the fan
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Idk about all that grease you packed in there. That seems pretty excessive. Def not a step I took or remember reading.... but I am getting old and tend to be horribly distracted by a child most days so I could be wrong.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
The sensor that’s hanging off the pcv hardline below and to the right of the carb often looses its connection. Reconnect it w/ bicycle brake line or something stout and heat resistant (I had a worn out choke cable) and you might have a fan again. Attach it to the most often broken line that is in the sheath w/ the fuel cut solenoid. That’s the other end you might be having trouble finding. I can take a photo of mine if you need guidance.
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- #35
It looks like a lot of grease but it wasn’t that much. Just a couple finger dabs to help coat the internals of the manual hub.
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- #36
Ok the sensor wire was fine and I couldn’t get the green connector apart but it did get the 7mm nut off the thermo switch. I cycled the key to reset the timer and when I ground that switch wire I now have power at the blue wire with red tracer. So until I get a new thermo switch I’ll ground the black wire and finish fixing the motor connections.
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- Thread starter
- #37
Fan is working with black sensor wire grounded and old connections fixed. Letting run now to see how long the fan runs for with sensor wire grounded. Coming up on 25 minutes and still going. Thinking I’ll pull the old sensor out and test it and replace and try that.
- Thread starter
- #39
Ended up getting the green connector apart and leaving it disconnect as it protects the wire from grounding. The fan seems to turn on whenever that wire grounds....I was under the impression that there was a timer built into the control box as well as the input from the thermo switch.
Anyone have the part number for the thermo switch?
Anyone have the part number for the thermo switch?
Did the new seat belt brown color match the OEM seat belt brown color? Did you compare to the rear belts that aren’t faded?
I need front belts but I don’t want the colors to be mismatched lol
I need front belts but I don’t want the colors to be mismatched lol
