Runaways are never good. Oil that lubes the turbo leaking into the engine intake is a common way to experience a runaway.
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Oil level looks fine. Almost as if I haven’t lost any oil at all.I'm not actually sure... it would have to be a break through into the oil galley rather than the water, but i guess if you had good oil pressure then you could feed a cylinder?? Maybe?
How's your oil level looking on the dip stick?
The fuel pump is lubricated with motor oil flow. I have not heard that it could leak so much that it would be noticed.What just occurred to me - is there any way fuel could be getting into my oil pan?
Overall it seems much more likely that your injection pump arm moved to the "over injection" position.Oil level looks fine. Almost as if I haven’t lost any oil at all.
What just occurred to me - is there any way fuel could be getting into my oil pan? I haven’t smelled my oil to see if I can tell if it has been contaminated and not even sure if possible.
@45Dougal Thanks! Could the arm moving to the over injection position cause the runaway? The first time runaway I was able to cut off the engine using the cable from inside of the cabin as normal. However, I had to restart the motor in order to get out of oncoming traffic on the highway so the second time i tried cutting off the engine the cable went limp (pulled out of the dash about 12 inches and wouldn`t 'retract') when I pulled it and the engine runaway kept going until I manually blocked the air intake.Overall it seems much more likely that your injection pump arm moved to the "over injection" position.
You said you have no edic but just a cable that wasn't working correctly. Is that now resolved?
Maybe you can add a photo of how your injection pump looks right now?@45Dougal Thanks! Could the arm moving to the over injection position cause the runaway? The first time runaway I was able to cut off the engine using the cable from inside of the cabin as normal. However, I had to restart the motor in order to get out of oncoming traffic on the highway so the second time i tried cutting off the engine the cable went limp (pulled out of the dash about 12 inches and wouldn`t 'retract') when I pulled it and the engine runaway kept going until I manually blocked the air intake.
I am still searching for the correct way to route the cable. I have not been able to get the cable to work. I have a new cable today that I will try installing but I suspect it may not be the cable. Maybe it's the pump and or pump arm? I also ordered a diaphragm but am not sure if a bad diaphragm could have caused the runaway. Also - I've yet to try to turn the engine back on again for fear of being unable to stop the runaway a third time and causing catastrophic failure.
Thanks! Here’s a pic of my pump and the cableMaybe you can add a photo of how your injection pump looks right now?
The cable is a very simple thing, so there's not much to go wrong with it apart from getting the adjustment correct.
I add a picture of what mine looks like currently on my H - not sure if it helps you much but hey. I don't recommend the choc-bloc securing the cable but if it works it works...
FYI I have an over injection magnet, so my arm can't move too far anyway.
View attachment 3902664
Thanks! The throttle cable moves freely but I’ll double check the full length of it to make sure it’s not snagging anywhere.Any chance your throttle cable stuck open? Also the two ascending vacuum pressure differential hoses from your pump to your throttle body are not oil safe - they need to be. Check their condition.
Well, that might be the reason. If the vacuum hose pops out, you’ll get the maximum fueling. When turbo is installed, you need to put some clamps to the hoses.They look ok but both lines did pop off during the runaway. There is not clamps originally
Well, that might be the reason. If the vacuum hose pops out, you’ll get the maximum fueling. When turbo is installed, you need to put some clamps to the hoses.
Thank you both!Yep.. exactly this.
Also.. check that your crankcase breather hose has been re-routed to a pre-turbo position if it wasnt already vented to atmosphere like most B Engines..
the hose on the right with the fitting to the top of throttle housing popped at the fitting, not at hose connection.
Is the black outer part of your bowden cable actually secured to anything? Otherwise it won't work obviously.Thanks! The throttle cable moves freely but I’ll double check the full length of it to make sure it’s not snagging anywhere.
I wondered if those lines had to be clear or not. I’ll swap those vacuum lines out for oil safe ones. They look ok but both lines did pop off during the runaway. One of the lines even blew off the connector with it. Does that connector get any adhesive on it or just pressure fit?
View attachment 3904544
Yes.The metal fitting came out of the throttle body?
Thank you for this detail. I didn’t realize it had to be able to push the arm too. Back to square one then haha. The black outer part of the cable was split. I found an aftermarket one that has a metal coil outer sheath and solid cable inside. I just cut it to size and trying to get it mounted just can’t figure out how to secure it so it can both pull and push the arm.Is the black outer part of your bowden cable actually secured to anything? Otherwise it won't work obviously.
Also, the nipple should be able to both push and pull the arm iirc, which it doesn't look like it can.