- Thread starter
- #101
Took a trip to Moab last weekend to test out the new suspension..... O wait that is my office parking lot.
Builds 1979 FJ40 Preservation-ish Project (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OPMACHINE
- Start date
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Need to lower your bumpstops. If you bottom out those shocks it can ruin them.
- Thread starter
- #103
I agree, need to add bump stop extensions to the list. Shocks are about 1/2” too long, but the next size down would have been too short.
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2002
- Threads
- 550
- Messages
- 44,787
- Location
- Canton, Mississippi
- Website
- www.seeandeatms.com
Nice nice
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2002
- Threads
- 550
- Messages
- 44,787
- Location
- Canton, Mississippi
- Website
- www.seeandeatms.com
I bought the Timbren kit that bolts into the stock location for my Pig. Pretty pimp
Did you buy from Adam Smith? Knew a guy with one like this in Jax at that time.
- Thread starter
- #107
I finally found a few hours to work on the rust repair. I am not quite sure how I should approach this.
The Real Steel patch panel is not even close to the original. The bend radius around the door sill and turn down and around the rear cross member is way off....Which is really the only thing that needs to be correct, the rest of the panel is pretty simple.
My current plan of attack.
- Remove the original rear quarter panel along the the sharpie line.
- Cut out the rust from the original rear quarter panel once removed from the truck.
- Weld in sections of the Real Steel patch panel to the original panel, leaving the original bend radius and step down intact.
- Re-weld the original panel back in place.
- blend and paint
option #2
- hammer and cut away at the Real Steel patch panel until it fits.
- weld it in
- blend and paint.
Anybody have a better plan?
The Real Steel patch panel is not even close to the original. The bend radius around the door sill and turn down and around the rear cross member is way off....Which is really the only thing that needs to be correct, the rest of the panel is pretty simple.
My current plan of attack.
- Remove the original rear quarter panel along the the sharpie line.
- Cut out the rust from the original rear quarter panel once removed from the truck.
- Weld in sections of the Real Steel patch panel to the original panel, leaving the original bend radius and step down intact.
- Re-weld the original panel back in place.
- blend and paint
option #2
- hammer and cut away at the Real Steel patch panel until it fits.
- weld it in
- blend and paint.
Anybody have a better plan?
- Thread starter
- #108
Opps...
Late to the party on this thread but I also got turned away from Discount Tire on mounting but found a local shop that had zero problems taking my money!
Got some of the last KM2s before the switch to KM3..... drives so much better, I’ve tabled the PS project for now
@OPMACHINE .....good looking ‘79 - Congratulations!
- Thread starter
- #110
A little progress today with the hammer and dolly.
- Thread starter
- #111
I am using 3M Weld-Thru II corrosion resistant zinc primer on both surfaces before spot welding.
- Thread starter
- #112
The plan is to slowly TIG welding the panel in place, then pinch weld the panel to the rear cross member horn.
- Thread starter
- #113
Well, I was planning on welding in the rear patch panel over the weekend......I went to start the cruiser and nothing but a click.
Diagnostics:
-Battery is old but holding 12.8V
-Battery cables are secure.
-Very weak headlights?
-Fusible link....WAS BYPASSED BY A PREVIOUS OWNER!
I really wish I payed more attention to this.
Not sure where to go from here?
Diagnostics:
-Battery is old but holding 12.8V
-Battery cables are secure.
-Very weak headlights?
-Fusible link....WAS BYPASSED BY A PREVIOUS OWNER!
I really wish I payed more attention to this.
Not sure where to go from here?
Cactus Camper
SILVER Star
The engine needs gas, spark and compression. Do you have spark? Have you gone through the ignition circuit? That was the issue with my 40.
- Thread starter
- #115
I am getting 12.2V at the alternator.
- Thread starter
- #116
No power to the starter solenoid.
Cactus Camper
SILVER Star
Are you running the original starter? Meaning, is it large and look heavy? I found great reference material from coolermans website. Double check your wiring, especially if the PO has been in there making changes
I ended up upgrading my starter to the FJ60 Gear Reduction Starter (GRS) which is well documented here on mud.
I ended up upgrading my starter to the FJ60 Gear Reduction Starter (GRS) which is well documented here on mud.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #118
@wildling Thank you, Coolerman's electrical schematic is fantastic! I believe the starter to be original. I have not gone thru the ignition circuit... I need rotation before spark.
I am still hoping that it is stater solenoid. I guess I will screwdriver start that stater to see if she will run.
I am still hoping that it is stater solenoid. I guess I will screwdriver start that stater to see if she will run.
- Thread starter
- #119
Captain overreaction reporting for duty!
Diagnosis:
Bad battery- 12.8V but only 38Amps
Bad starter solenoid
And a pending order for Coolerman’s fusible link
Now back to finding the time to wheel this beauty into the weld shop.
Diagnosis:
Bad battery- 12.8V but only 38Amps
Bad starter solenoid
And a pending order for Coolerman’s fusible link
Now back to finding the time to wheel this beauty into the weld shop.
What is the update?
