Builds 1979 FJ40 Preservation-ish Project (3 Viewers)

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Rust Repair:

Today I ordered CCOT rear quarter patch panels, after deciding I did not want to invest the time or energy trying to make one set for my own truck.

There does not seem to be a lot of consistences about who makes the best replacement panels, so I decided to try CCOT.
 
Like they were meant to.
20190909_120936.jpg
 
Regarding the 33x10.5 tires on the stock steelies : I've gathered the common, BFG AT's do not or can not work, which is likely the case for most of the other tires, from the other companies, that same size. To combat this, some here have had the 5.5" stock steelies widened, via having them cut in half & a steel ringed spacer welded in - and the wheel welded back together.

Conversely, many here, including @rkymtnflyfisher, have found the BFG MT do work (albeit often with some effort, as @rkymtnflyfisher wrote above). Fact is, the natural width of the stock steelie is right at the absolute limit of being able to accommodate the tall, 10.5 tire.

1979/80 was right at the end of Toyota using the stock steelies. And prior to the 1981 using the OEM white wagon wheel ones, I'm fairly sure most of the 79/80's used the aftermarket wagon wheels. Similar in style to the American Racing wheel one, able to be easily & inexpensively purchased today. They're not the exact same, but massively similar.

At least, that's what mine came with. And is what most of the original condition 79 & 80's I've seen have been sporting (not the gray steelies, nor the late model white OEM wagon wheel - but a simple, steel wagon wheel in off-white).

Regarding the rust : @OPMACHINE - I know PRECISELY what you speak of. For me, mine had sat still in our garage, un-driven, for 25 years, while I was toting around the country for work; or, scrounging my limited money for other, higher-priority things. I chalk this off to being a 'such as life.'

I decided to make it a priority to get mine running again, that I could daily drive her. However. Things went downhill for me (and her) when I saw some rust in her rear sill (I live in the humid Atlanta area). Soooo... That I could remove ALL ASPECTS of ANY such rust, wherever it may lie hidden from me - - completely, completely, completely dissembled she went. Her chassis sandblasted & repainted, etc. etc.

And that's how she still stand today - her various small parts in zip-lock type bags; and her others spread throughout the house. ... All I want, besides a beautiful woman at my side, is to have my own 40 completely rebuilt, to that of my well-defined mental vision - that I can daily drive her again through the brush & great outdoors - just like @rkymtnflyfisher daily does with his.

So, for you, as long as yours is driving, which yours seems to be doing well - keep driving her. ... and DON'T sell her. If there's ever a regret on this forum, it's those who sell theirs (for whatever reason - other than to flip for sale them as a hobby).

If you're going to go ahead & replace the rear quarter panels (because of rust), you'll probably need to repaint the whole car - that the new paint becomes seamless.

Simply talking my mind ~Marc
 
Last edited:
@Skydog put that sucker back together!! Good information in regards to the 33x10.5 MT. That is want my father is running on his FZJ43, so I will probably follow suit. Although I would rather have 33 x 9.5 because I do not have power steering (yet).

I will officially state for the record: I will never sell this FJ40. I am 32 years old and this is my first opportunity to own a 40 series. There are not many original 40 series out there, especially in my area. i mostly see crap from central and south america. Even with the exterior respray I consider this fj40 a survivor.

Regarding the Rust: I am a huge fan or original patina, but the rust/rot/cancer has got to go. The metal fab should be business as usual. I am not planning on taking out any more metal than is necessary to get to good steel. I am working with a local custom hot rod shop that is going to do their best to blend the paint as best as possible, maybe a little fake patina to help blend. I am not expecting magic, but I do believe they can do a fair job at blending the new paint into the existing paint. The exterior was repainted before it left California in 2009. I am not looking for perfection, I want her to wear her scars and blemishes proudly. Just not the rot. I am fairly confident I will be able to fix the rust repair without further damaging the originality. If it had the original paint job i would leave it alone.

I plan on following @wngrog method of using CLR, rust converter and fluid film to stop the surface rust from turning into cancer, instead of repainting everything. In my mind, if i am going to repaint the exterior, that will lead to me rebuild the whole truck. And there are enough shinny perfect FJ40 out there.
 
Skydog said:
Regarding the 33x10.5 tires on the stock steelies : I've gathered the common, BFG AT's do not or can not work, which is likely the case for most of the other tires, from the other companies, that same size. To combat this, some here have had the 6.5" stock steelies widened, via having them cut in half & a steel ringed spacer welded in - and the wheel welded back together.

Conversely, many here, including @rkymtnflyfisher, have found the BFG MT do work (albeit often with some effort, as @rkymtnflyfisher wrote above). Fact is, the natural width of the stock steelie is right at the absolute limit of being able to accommodate the tall, 10.5 tire.

1979/80 was right at the end of Toyota using the stock steelies. And prior to the 1981 using the OEM white wagon wheel ones, I'm fairly sure most of the 79/80's used the aftermarket wagon wheels. Similar in style to the American Racing wheel one, able to be easily & inexpensively purchased today. They're not the exact same, but massively similar.

At least, that's what mine came with. And is what most of the original condition 79 & 80's I've seen have been sporting (not the gray steelies, nor the late model white OEM wagon wheel - but a simple, steel wagon wheel in off-white).

Regarding the rust : @OPMACHINE - I know PRECISELY what you speak of. For me, mine had sat still in our garage, un-driven, for 25 years, while I was toting around the country for work; or, scrounging my limited money for other, higher-priority things. I chalk this off to being 'such as life.'

I decided to make it a priority to get mine running again, that I could daily drive her. However. Things went downhill for me (and her) when O saw some rust in her rear sill (I live in the humid Atlanta area). Soooo... That I could remove ALL ASPECTS of ANY such rust, wherever it may lie hidden from me - - completely, completely, completely dissembled she went. Her chassis sandblasted & repainted, etc. etc.

And that's how she still stand today - her various small parts in zip-lock type bags; snd her others spread throughout the house. ... All I want, besides a beautiful woman at my side, is to have my own 40 completely rebuilt, to that of my mental vision - that I can daily drive her again through the brush & great outdoors - just like @rkymtnflyfisher daily does with his.

So, for you, as long as yours is driving, which yours seems to be doing well - keep driving her. ... and DON'T sell her. If there's ever a regret on this forum, it's those who sell theirs (for whatever reason - other than to flip for sale them as a hobby).

If you're going to go ahead & replace the rear quarter panels (because of rust), you'll probably need to repaint the whole car - that the new paint becomes seamless.

Simply talking my mind ~Marc
Click to expand...

This is a very long post to insert but you are 100% wrong on 33x10.50 not working on the stock 5.5” rims. They work fine. A couple of homer companies won’t mount them like Discount Tire but there are thousands of us using them on the stock wheels. Zero reason to spend the money to widen stock wheels.
 
Hey @wngrog : thanks for chiming-in.

That I learn for myself, I'm interested in what you say above. Not to begin any type debate, which I ask not to parkake, it's been my long surmise that BFG All-Terrain tires in the 33x10.5x15 size can not fit or be physically or safely mounted upon the 5.5" stock steelie, the wheel commonly used here. I had read this in however many different threads, but can not recall any specific one of them for this thread. The gist of the once written words, by others, are simply somewhere within my mind - that the MT's work, but the AT's don't.

Contra to this, others, like @rkymtnflyfisher, have instead successfully utilized the BFG Mud-Terrain tires in the 33x10.5x15 size on their own 5.5" stock steelies. Why one type tire would easily fit and the other not - I've zero clue. But I'm wide-open to learning that what I had mentioned in the post above - is in fact not correct. In honest, I, myself would like the BFG AT tire on my own vehicle in the 33x10.5 size on just that - the original stock steelies (as I already have one that was the original spare on my own vehicle. It has the original 1979 mud tire still mounted on it as well - although still inflated, the tire's fairly dry-rotted & not useable).

Because I'm believing I'd learned from others that the All-Terrain will NOT work on the 5.5" steelie, I've been believing I'm needing to go with the newer OEM wagon-wheel ones (which are naturally wider at 7" - and I now have a set of 5 of them, stacked in the garage, waiting for my car to be built).

If you don't mind, can you point us to others who have successfully mounted the 33x10.5x15 tire, other than the BFG MT, on the 5.5" stock steelie ? ... Again, I'm not attempting to put you against any sort of wall - but I (and I'm sure others) would like to know the hard reality on this. Thx !!
 
Skydog said:
Contra to this, others, like @rkymtnflyfisher, have instead successfully utilized the BFG Mud-Terrain tires in the 33x10.5x15 size on their own 5.5" stock steelies.
Click to expand...


I'm running the 33" Maxxis Razr MT, the minimum approved wheel width is 7". Fits like a glove.
 
OPMACHINE said:
Cruiser Gods,

I have done a poor job of documenting my past projects, so for this impulse buy, I have decided to document as much as possible. This is my first 40 series project, it is apparent I will need to enlist the help of the MUD community. I have wanted my own FJ40 since i was a little kid. I found this FJ40 less than 5 miles from my house. I was BJANDCJ in a past life.

The lady in questions:
- 2/1979 FJ40 California spec.
- Sky Blue
- Dealer option Clardy A/C


The Legend:
Sold new in California, stayed until it was sold out of San Diego in 2009. From 2009 until 9/5/2019 is has been garage kept (car port last year) and driven 7,000 miles in the last 10 year. From the service record I have, it looks like it has been loved and fairly well maintained for the last 20 years

Current State:

The good:
- service records from 2000 thru 2019
- 2.5'' HFS CCOT lift. (no experience)
- SOR vinyl seats and cushions have been replaced.
- new OEM badges (originals saved)
- factory Toyota vinyl carpet (torn at driver right heel)
- most EVERYTHING works as it should
- very complete and original/ period correct
- good compression
- passed California smog in 2009 ( less than 8k miles ago)


* The transmission and t-case were rebuild in 2007 among other things. The work was done by Burbank Union Aurocare Center. * Anybody have any info on this outfit? (around 10k miles ago)


The Bad:
-The exterior was repainted the original Sky Blue before it was sold in 2009. Patina lost forever
- wrong front bumper
- There is rust on the rear quarter panels that has busted thru, zero signs of any previous rust repair or bondo.
- the clutch master cylinder leaking
- surface rust around the drain holes on the floor boards.
-surface rust on the inside of the hood where a heat shield had been stuck.
- A/C does not blow cold. (leaking hoses)
- steering box leak



The Plan:
I just want a solid original cruiser that is fun to drive. 95% I will have to top and doors off.

Preserve Patina:
-hot pressure wash the exterior and undercarriage (complete)
- sprayed rust converter on the rust spot on the undercarriage. (complete)
- spray fluid film in the body cavities to prevent rust from eating her from the inside out.

Change all fluids:


Change all hoses:
- California smog equipment looks like it will be hard to find parts for. I have been looking for the pump hoses? Please....
- Clardy A/C hose are leaking so i think i will replace with modern crimped hose or just shelf the whole ac unit or Vintage Air

Front and rear axle rebuild:


Fix Rust:
I am going to start with the right rear quarter first. I basically spent all of sunday scrubbing the bottom of the cruiser with CLR and a scotch brite pad, and i am pretty confident there has never been any previous rust repair.
-Who makes the best rear quarter patch panel?
- Any special techniques or prep work I should consider?

Pictures:

View attachment 2079378

View attachment 2079379

View attachment 2079380

View attachment 2079381

View attachment 2079383
Click to expand...
Glad to see your son likes it! I know I sold her to a good home. Thanks for documenting the progress!
 
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