Builds 1979 FJ40 Preservation-ish Project (1 Viewer)

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@plink01 I have been following your build, with interest. Looks like you have a great truck. Mine will be on the operating table in a few weeks, once i get all of the little thinks squared away. How to the patch panel interacts with the rear sill is my biggest concern. I plan to coat the inside of the patch and the rear sill with a zinc based weld-thru primer. I will most likely TIG weld the patch in, but this options seems less popular for some reason? I think TIG welding will help me control the heat better.

Yeah this is getting above my skill level! I can do some basic arc and mig welding, I have 0 experiance on tig.

I have a guy who does resto's on classic cars two shops down from my depot. I think I'm gonna get him to cut and weld it in. I'll spray it and try and try and blend it in a bit.

I want to respray the 40 properly in the long term. But for a year or two I just want to drive it.

I did a bit of spraying on my campervan last week and it went way better than I was expecting. Its given me confidence to do it on the 40.

I'm amazed at the cut and polish job you did. I'm gonna give that a crack in the next few weeks. That's insane the difference!
 
Progress:
PVC valve and grommet replaced
Oil cooler hoses replaced (still waiting on the rest of the coolant hoses)

I removed the air cleaner assembly and was able to get a much better look at the carb. and maze of vacuum lines and EGR system.
2f with intake removed (2).jpg

I feel a lot more confident that I will be able to maintain the EGR and vacuum line pasta after taking the air cleaner assembly off. The more I stare, the better I feel.

Hot Air Intake:
Hot air intake system.jpg

I am assuming the HAI manifold is classified as unobtainium? Has anybody tried to fab up a replacement? Any pack rats squirrel away NOS that they are willing to part with?

The Carburetor:
2-1979 carb..jpg

Time for a rebuild?....... super fun!!! I have never done this without adult supervision. But with the help of MUD I am confident we can get this done correctly.

intake assembly.jpg
 
My dog Otis was hit by a car a few weeks ago and I have really been beating myself up about it. I am going spend a little more time with the family and a little less time working on old cars.

Opportunity cost:
I decided to skip the fun of learning how to rebuild a carburetor and just left it to the professionals. I called Mark's Off-Road Enterprises and a few days later I had a fully rebuilt and upgraded carburetor. It appears to be very well done. Mark even laser cuts an "M" into the sight glass cover so you know he is serious. Tonight I will replace the fuel lines and filter and see if she runs.


new vs old carb.jpg


Marks Offroad Carb..jpg

carb removed.jpg


New Carb installed.jpg


Easy!

Otis in the FJ40.jpg
 
Captain Bolt-on reporting for duty.

Baseline parts are all in the cruiser.
- Rebuilt carburetor
- Fuel filter
- Fuel lines
- Spark plugs, cap, rotor and wires
- All heater hoses
- New heater valve
- All coolant hoses
- Oil cooler hoses and piping
- All fluids.
- Radiator union pipe
- Coolant overflow hose and cap
- Valve cover ventilation hose
- PVC valve and grommet
- Trimmed or replaced vacuum lines.
- OEM front bumper
- A Plethora of rubber plugs and grommets for the interior
- oil dip stick
- belts
- TEQ oil valve cover cap






parts table.jpg


The Tuffy center console fit in really nicely. Modified to sit farther back away from the 4 speed. Dynamat on the bottom to keep it from rattling. Front and rear cup holders have not been installed

Center COnsol shifter up.jpg
Center Consol shifter down.jpg
 
I finally fired up the cruiser around midnight last night. The 2F ran fantastic for about 15 min., until I pulled up to a stop sign and tried to idle. All of a sudden the cruiser would barely idle and then it would pudder out and die. Felt like a massive vacuum leak. I was able to limp her home.
I pulled out my vacuum gauge and then all of a sudden rough idle problem disappears. So another test drive that ended with the same rough Idle symptom that feels like a vacuum leak.

I started searching for similar symptoms here on MUD.

My Symptoms:
- Rough Idle once warm
- Suspected lack of vacuum pressure at idle. (not verified)

Got to be EGR related?

IH8MUD's biggest culprit with these symptoms.
- Emission Control Module P/N: 89550-60120
- Fuel cut idle solenoid
- EGR valve stuck open?

This morning before work I pulled the ECM to take a look inside. I was immediately optimistic when a wooden wedge fell out that was wedged beside the input plug.
Emissions Control Computor.jpg
ECM.jpg


Can anybody see anything obviously wrong?
- Should is try and re-flow the solder, or keep looking?
- Some people just ground the white/red wire before it enters the module.

I understand why people pull all of the emissions stuff!!!
 
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Can I have my cake and eat it too? Suspension recommendations:

Current setup:
- Doors and top removed.
- 50lb added weight over stock (basic tools and center console)
- 2.5'' HFS "kit"
- 29x9.5r15 with 28psi / 13psi trails


Aesthetics:
- I love the way a 2.5'' lift cruiser looks.
- I plan on running 33x10.5r15 BFG M/T

My cruiser is currently sitting on CCOT Hell For Stout 2.5'' springs and shocks, with the door and top off and no real added weight this think rides ROUGH, like old unloaded semi rough. So I am looking for alternative options.

My intended usage:
- Dirt farm roads, moderate trails and fire breaks. 50%
- Taking the wife to dinner around town 50% (cocktail cruiser)
- Teach my son

Top prospects:
- OME 2.5'' Stock/light duty lift with rubber bushings and Bilstein 5100 shocks
- Custom Alcan springs with rubber bushings and Bilstein 5100 shocks

OME:
- I have had good experiences with OME lifts on 5 other rigs, with once complaint. OME suspension seems to be designed for heavy expeditions style cruiser. Designed to take lots of gear into the Australian outback I have not intention of loading this FJ40 down. I have a built FZJ80 that I will take on long trip, built for that purpose. I do not like OME shocks at all.

Alcan:
- No experience, but it appears that they can tailor a spring for my intended application.
- mixed reviews on MUD

The questions I have:
- Would switching suspension manufactures yield a better result?
- Is it even possible to have a soft radius-ed/lifted spring

I am looking for the softest possible +2.5'' suspension that will perform well on a very light weight FJ40.

No a good option for me:
- body lift
- SOA
- Not going to 3/4 link this truck

Any input is appreciated!!
 
The rough ride is one reason my wife didn't like riding in it with me!! I just accepted it as normal, although I never removed the top and doors. Buckle up!
 
I was debating between a custom alcan setup mixed with 5100s. The springs alone were going to be about as much as a full OME kit though. I looked at MAF kits too. I ultimately went with an OME kit from Cruiser Outfitters. I was also going to get 5100s, but they told me the OME shocks are tuned to go with the OME springs. I didn't want to mess with measuring full droop for proper 5100 lengths and it was a little unclear what to order from the 5100 part number thread. I'm sure you can figure it out and lots of guys on here do that. I have no complaints about my OME kit so far. It is a heavy kit and it is a little bouncy with no top, no doors, unloaded and without a winch yet. It will be smoother when I put the top and doors back on and have camping gear in the back. But it's a short wheel base leaf sprung vehicle. I don't expect it to ride like my King Ranch F150.
 

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